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Wonder if someone can help me out, I just received my new blade V2 and I also received my backplane I plugged in my power supply and made sure it was the right model number (HP DPS 800GBA) and installed the blade into slot #1 but no lights from the network connection and when I try the ip address nothing.  Looks like I plugged the blade in the wrong way, turned it around but still nothing.

Can anyone help me out,
Thanks

so you did not follow the drawing on the back(bottom)plane ? you most probably plugged 12V to the ground and vice versa ... does it smell weird ? nothing turned black ?

Does not smell weird still has that new electronics smell and nothing has turned black.

replace the fuse, you should have received some extra fuses with each blade in a little baggy.

Nope no fuses no little baggy, not even sure where a fuse goes on this blade

I would contact the person/company you bought them from...


https://www.bitmit.net/en/img/trade_uploads/2013/09/04/new-v-2-10-7gh-s-blade-bl_38439.jpg

At the very top-left of this picture, you see a little white SMD fuse right next to the power connection.
(Sorry I tried to get a picture without going and taking a picture off my blades, feeling lazy atm....)

The fuses are very small, SMT/SMD fuses... look like this:
http://www.newark.com/productimages/farnell/standard/42422392.jpg

My blade does not exactly look like that, is it a V2 blade? I think I see what you are talking about it has an "R" imprinted on it and is dark red in color and below that has F1 imprinted on the board.

I sent a message to SSB about fuses included in the box.

Thanks

I thought it was, meh, okay, I stopped being lazy...
(ignore the red / white wires, I ran out of yellow / black when I was making that wire longer)

http://tk1337.com/images/v2fuse.jpg

I'll be completely honest with you, since my blades came from SSB as well... I almost threw these out, it looked like an empty baggy at first I didn't pay any attention to it almost did toss them. So if you still have the packaging, I suggest you go look through it, as I've ordered a lot from SSB and he's never failed to send something out (to me at least).

I already blew one fuse about two weeks ago, of which from the blown fuse, I can't even tell it's blown... just that blade didn't work, was about to make a post then I remembered saving the fuses I almost threw out...

So here is the type of fuse I have:

https://i.imgur.com/ZQcsOYZ.jpg

And here it is on the board, does not look like it can be removed:

https://i.imgur.com/2PVBsUI.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/FCu3g5r.jpg

interesting... did they make a different revision of the v2's?... hmm...

Well mine does say Rev version 2.01

curious... because...

v1:
http://s24.postimg.org/ktt1wgiol/asics.jpg

and then v2:

http://bimg1.mlstatic.com/block-erupter-asic-blade-miner-10-ghashs-nuevo-modelo_MLA-F-5064929846_092013.jpg

and what I can tell from your image, is completely different from both...

even more interesting is the fact my blades say "REV 2.01" on them as well...

Ok well SSB has not gotten back to me but I think I will buy a power supply and see if that works could be that the backplane is bad.

Thanks for your help

So SSB got back to me and told me that the new blades don't have fuses, looks like I may have fried the board   D' oh!     >:(

well that sucks, sorry to hear...

I still find it strange, that we both have "REV 2.01" but they are actually different boards.

Hey I have a new question and maybe you can help

Do you have a backplane and if so what kind of surface did you lay it on, was wondering if I lay it on a metal surface will that short out the backplane.

I am use to putting motherboards on standoffs when I build a new computer rig.

Thanks again for your help

I'm running 4 without a backplane, however, I used Plasticoat and coated the entire inside of an old case just to make sure nothing grounded out. Might help ya ;)

That is not true

They have SMD R code fuse, 3A, just unsloder old and put new one.

:)

The blade I just received a week and some ago also doesn't have a socketed fuse, but the "R" labeled device alongside the power connector is indeed a fuse. It's not 3A though, or someone's a fool - these blades are rated to pull at least 7A stock.

I blew the fuse on mine but didn't have any replacements, so I soldered on an automotive fuse in place and it's been working since.

Not sure if these blades are equipped with reverse protection diodes, but it would make sense - basically a diode reverse-biased on the power rails so if you ever plug it in backward it blows the fuse quickly, ideally before reverse voltage has a chance to fry anything important. If that's the case, very likely replacing the fuse (I believe the stock fuse is around 8A, mine blew after 30 hours of handling 11.4A so not sure how much I trust 'em anyway) might bring it back to life.


As for "different" V2.01 models, I think the PCB is the same, just populated slightly differently. Appears that recently they changed the fuse installation, VRM output capacitors and a few other little things - probably to save a few cents per board.

That's a great idea haven't used a soldering iron in more years than I'd like to admit.  Do you have a good place where I can buy an SMD R code fuse?

Thanks for the advice I was just going to toss this blade but I think I will pull out the old soldering iron and see if that does the trick.
 8)

tk1337
that's a good idea putting Plastikoat inside an old computer case and then mounting the backplane.

IF you aren't able to get it working again, I'll buy it off of you. I have 2 of these green PCB blades that had the same problem.

Yes. They have a fuse. It is just not one that you pop out and replace. No extra fuses come in box with this blade style/revision. The above info may work if the fuse was burnt out.

I can bay any faulty asic

hey sorry to hijack someone else's thread but i've got a v2 blade that just keeps blowing fuses. Am I right in saying I could rob a 7-10amp fuse out my car and solder it? I wasn't sure what the ratings were with the little ones you slot in there but i've none left :(

Cheers
Chris

Should be able to. I'd probably start with a 10A fuse just in case, not too far above stock rating. If that blows there's probably something fairly serious wrong with your board somewhere. Check if any of the transistors on the VRMs (the little 8-pin guys near the grey blocks) are getting hot. One of them could be trying to fail short, or not switching off properly and pulling extra power. Do any of your chips X out on the config page?

turns out the unit is no good at all :( It blew a mosfet when i first plugged it in. so i put a new one on there but it blew it again so i think the unit isn't going to work ever unfortunately.

Can you disable the buck IC for that bank and run it on the other 7? Probably at minimum pulling the FETs and inductor would do it, and if the other VRMs are still operational you'd be running at 88% capacity.

Or 120% if you overclocked it...

hmm i'll give it a go - thanks! It's certainly worth a try, it can't get any worse :)

Definitely post if you can get it back alive. I wasn't too worried about messing with mine one bank at a time because the rest were somewhat isolated from a single-point VRM failure but fortunately everything still works. Would like to see how resilient these guys are.

If it's easy you couldn't post a pic of the bits to disconnect could you? I'm ok with a soldering iron but not sure exactly the best bits to disconnect to knock a bank out.

Cheers :)

I'm not sure but that you might try pulling pin 6 on the buck IC low. It's an enable that's internally pulled high; looks like it routs to a via on the board and it's got voltage on it but I'm not sure yet if it pulls from external or not. If it's externally driven but not resistor-tied to high, then forcing it low could short out the low-volt regulator and power down the board, or fry the regulator. If it's internally pulled high, then putting ground on that via/pin  should keep the thing turned off.
Before relying on that, I'd make sure none of your FETs failed short or they could be driving 12V into the ASICs on that bank.

I'd say if you pull the two FETs and the inductor, that should effectively isolate the voltage output from basically any high-side or ground DC and the regulator IC can't really do a thing about it.


http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu202/sidehack128/disable_vrm.jpg

fantastic thanks I'll give that a shot later or tomorrow. I think I might have had 12v heading to the asics on one bank though as after the fet blew a row of asics were very quick to follow. Still it was only one bank so like you say, perhaps it'll still power the rest of them up :) Worth a shot anyway.

Thanks for your help - it's great!

The good thing about these is each bank has a completely independent VRM, so yeah it's pretty likely that even if one row blew the rest of your chips are still good once the shorted parts are removed. Hopefully a blown FET is all it is.

Just occurred to me, you might also consider checking with ASICMiner about warranty replacement?

yeah i couldn't actually figure out how you contact them in order to talk about a replacement? Their website doesn't seem to offer any contact details.

No clue here either. I tend to void warranties more often than redeem them.

haha yep same :)

This same incident just happened to me too.

I just lost 8 blades - Poofff gone.   All running on a backplane sitting on electrical grade GP03 fiberglass....  Was running a 750 PSU and then everything showed Zero for speed on my mining pool.   I didn't have any replacement fuses, nor do I know where to get them. 

I'm still down :( - Is anyone still buying units like this?  Could use the capital to get new miners.  I have five (5) Green Back BE V. 2.01 and three (3) Blue Back BE V. 2.01's for sale.

All are in perfect condition less the fuse assembly.  Look brand new..

 :'(

I was able to get one unit running perfectly by removing the fuse, cleaning the contacts and electrical taping over the fuse.

Where to purchase a replacement fuse for version 2?  (The tiny, non-automotive fuse pictured in this thread.)

Blew my board's fuse and am using a small piece of conductive aluminum to bridge the open fuse socket for now, but would sleep better know I had a fuse in their instead.

Thanks

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/2410SFV8.00FM%2F125-2/2410SFV8.00FM%2F125CT-ND/2766071

Not sure how well the ends will meet with the socket contacts if you have a blue-board blade, but that's jerry-riggable.

Thanks, but that Digi-Key fuse breaks at 50 amps; isn't that far higher than the board could ever receive from the type of PC PSU's we're all using?

Will this fuse protect against current running in opposite polarity (+/ground reversed)?

The fuse trips at 8A. Breaking capacity is the current the fuse can safely stop without exploding.

As for protecting against opposite polarity, not strictly no. Placing a forward-biased diode in series with the fuse would prevent against reverse polarity current. Also placing a reverse-biased diode in parallel with the fuse would trip the fuse quickly if it were plugged in backward, without having the power loss of a diode drop at 8A present during continuous use. These blades may already have protection like that implemented though.

Interesting.  Saw a Blade photo on another thread and there was no reset header.  No removable fuse as well?

Yeah they decided to go cheaper on the green-board V2 blades. The fuse is soldered, so no socket. No reset or test/debug headers, and it's only got one output cap on the bank VRMs instead of two. Stuff like that.

Thanks everyone for input and advice.
I blew my R-coded fuse by following instructions and looking at picture on a guide on another forum. Lesson learned: Look for the PLUS + and Negative - signs on the connector to see where the yellow and black wires should go, do not assume they go exactly as you see on a picture on the internet!!!
I knew my fuse was blown when i used a paperclip to jumper the 2 sides of the fuse and the board seemed to power-up.
Thanks for the advice to solder on a 10A auto fuse. I will try that next.

Yikes, hope this doesn't happen on any of mine. Seems like the old v2 design was better. What is the cause of the fuses blowing?

What is the cause of the fuses blowing?

Reversing the yellow and black wires on the connector.
 Yellow should go where + is marked on the connector.
Black should go where - is marked on the connector.

Ok, I'm safe then, thanks!

Soldering a fuse to bypass the blown one is so messy (I am new at this). I do not know if now there's a new fuse between the 2 sides of the fuse assembly , or the 2 sides are just permanently jumpered together! The board powered-up though and I am now hashing happily!

So you did a repair? Can you post pics?

Hmmm... To post pictures, I'd have to reach to the shelf where the blade is sitting, unplug it, take pictures and then re-plug it. Lost revenue, too much work. There are a couple of pictures already posted showing the little red fuse with the letter R on it. It is soldered on the board and you cannot remove it to replace it.
Thinking back now about it, I could have simply used "Wire Glue" Conductive Glue instead of soldering.
If you look at a picture of the fuse, you will a small tiny metal surface on both sides of it. Just buy a 10A auto fuse from Auto Zone or any auto parts shop. Apply a tiny amount of the conductive glue to the two ends of the auto fuse and to the two tiny surfaces next to the blown fuse.
If you google ""Wire Glue" Conductive Glue", you will see what I mean. I do not know for sure it'll work, but it certainly is much less messy than soldering.