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This is a DIY project because you have to, that is unless you want to spend some serious cash on a PDU with these features. I made this prototype for myself just to have a working model and then see where I can improve upon the design. In all honesty though I'm not going to need this very often but it's nice to be able to check new gear as it arrives. This will allow you to confirm for yourself the power draw of your miners among other things depending on the model you choose.

So here's the only link that really matters. It's the critical component the Multi-function power meter. There are so many designs out there but they all have some minor differences in their ratings for: Voltage, Current, and Frequency.The model I settled on is rated well beyond anything I will throw at it.

6-in-1 Digital tester (https://www.droking.com/digital-meter-ac-80-300-100a-voltmeter-ammeter-power-meter-energy-meter-power-factor-meter-frequency-meter-6in1-digital-tester) My model came with the current transformer and the setup is super simple by following the visual installation. I settled on this model so I could get readings over 3000 W as I'm expecting an M20S. Apart form that I used the following that I had on hand already. * I will look for the link to what I ordered exactly.

- 12 ft of 12/2 Wire - Length is optional as needed I had this kicking around and didn't want to cut it down for a trial.
- Controller box - Easy to remove cover.
- Power cables to make cable ends - These depend on what cord ends you need - At the miner, and at your power source (PDU or receptacle).
- A couple Wire connectors.
- Not shown but it's advisable to use an electrical box for safety to hold the cable end connections. That or some other means of making the connection, it's not a good idea to leave connected wires exposed to pulling forces which could break the connections.

One thing I will point out is you need at minimum a basic understanding of electrical wiring to attach cord ends and make the meter connections. So here's some Photos. I warn you it's not pretty but it works. ;)

https://i.imgur.com/0Tvs4bum.jpg (https://imgur.com/0Tvs4bu) https://i.imgur.com/kDbJ4lHm.jpg (https://imgur.com/kDbJ4lH) https://i.imgur.com/xgqaMWEm.jpg (https://imgur.com/xgqaMWE)

So the above images are the entirety of the build and the internal wiring of the meter. I will note I would probably change a few things inside the box, like using 14 gauge wire for the sensing lines - The two leaving the base of the meter. I would either find a better material than 12/2 Wire as it's extremely rigid and can be annoying to move around.

https://i.imgur.com/zeBI1USm.jpg?1 (https://imgur.com/zeBI1US) https://i.imgur.com/GCvjUPlm.jpg?1 (https://imgur.com/GCvjUPl) https://i.imgur.com/rREVDihm.jpg?1 (https://imgur.com/rREVDih)

These 3 images are my M10 running in Normal mode, then Low Power mode, followed by the other readings this was at hour 22ish on Normal mode.

Nice idea.

I recently was building a diy transformer to pdu.  For running s17's s15's t17's and t15's under 240 volts.

2 parts  not cheap but will do 2 units and drops volt by 11.

242 in 231 out
241 in 230 out
240 in 229 out

here are the 2 parts.

https://www.larsonelectronics.com/product/149202/1-phase-buck-boost-step-down-transformer-240v-primary-229v-secondary-30-57-amps-50-60hz

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-EO4501-4-Port-Modular-PDU-Control-Unit-228481-002-UL-Listed-24-AMP/153377266027?

I got them for 185 + 29 = 214

it will run 2 s17's

and simply reduces volts.

so if you have a hot 240 line like I do in my house 239 to 247 is the norm  you will always be under by around 11 volts.

say 228 to 236 volts.  It wastes around 20 watts to run 2 units.

Would be very nice to link it in  with your meter project.

Thanks, I've been mulling this or something similar for like a year now. After searching every page on the internet I realized no one was going to hand me a plug and play model.
I love what you are talking about and I think a lot of people have the same issue as us. You can see on my meter I'm always over 240 and all that gear may have a hard stop at that voltage. I remember you talking about it a few weeks ago and if I didn't have the M20 options to exceed that I'd probably be asking you for the steps to build one now.  :D

By all means if you do a build and create a thread or video let me know I'll link to it all day long. Here and in the First time miners thread. Seeing as some newbies out there in the near future may not have a choice if more gear moves towards a 240 hardcap.

Omg,
is it still common in the US to use that kind of old fashion connectors
instead of for example the Wago 221 Series connectors?

Those old connectors are hazardous as hell..

Yep and  it is why I did not show the construction details for my build.

your wago 221's look much better.

I ordered these 2 from amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GR8V4SV

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CJR8MH4

I will build it again and do a video.

they will be a lot better than these

https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Connectors-Terminals-Connection-Assortment/dp/B01MPXUEPO

Glad to hear Phil :) ,
and I would also use a enclosure with strain relief for the cables,
to cover and protect the connection junction.

the transformer box has a protected space for that.

https://www.larsonelectronics.com/images/product/Manual/149202.PDF

this is a photo of it from the pdf above.  I used 10 gauge wire in and out. So I did not like  my wire twist connections.

but with the strain relief and the wago 221  it will be much better.

https://i.imgur.com/nqljiXS.png (https://i.imgur.com/nqljiXS.png)

Common and to code up here in CanadUS  ;) . I'm not a fan of them as I don't have the trade tricks for tight spaces, funny you mention the Wago connectors I bought a few packs the other day from the hardware store when I was looking around. I'm probably going to use them inside the box itself, they'll be a dream- much like the first time I discovered push-in receptacles. Never having used them before I went with what I know first.

Nice. I rigged up a similar setup on all the 3-phase lines coming into my hosting before being split to the various shelves so I can monitor realtime loads and keep the phases close to balanced. Didn't have the watts readout, just volts and amps. For the watt-hour meters for hosting customers I went low-tech and bought a bunch of retired house electric meters for like $25 apiece.

I have been illuminated! Thanks

Same! Did not know about these!

note   the

221-412
221-413
221-415     do 12 awg  or  4mm max wire size 24awg min size

the

221-612
221-613
221-615   do 10awg or 6mm max wire size  20awg min size

I got

221-613

221-615  from amazon

since 10awg goes into transformer and out of transformer

These should make for a nice safe  s17 and t17  pdu power source always well under 240 volts.

Glad to help you guys,
maybe I should become a Wago salesman since it is this easy to get more sales. ;D

It will really make a difference for my build.  Thanks again.

I should be able to put this to use over the next couple days swapping out parts to help my limpy M10 get to full power. I'll find those connectors I bought and check their ratings see if they are up to par and snap a few photos if so. I'm just looking forward to comparing the power draw on the miner before and after.


I came across many of those in my search and considered adding one in at my garage panel for kicks, then I realized I have to many actual projects on the go to play around. I did almost buy a few more of these units though just to add them in as I installed more circuits down the road, might still do it in the future but for now, it's nice to just be able to test or confirm specs.