A rootkit on a drive would be eliminated by a full format of the drive. A bootkit virus it that writes itself to the MBR would also be eliminated with a full format of the drive.

A full format will certainly overwrite all the data on the drive and the boot sector so it's no longer recoverable except by forensic software. If you are dealing with malware that copies itself over the network to mapped network drives or that writes itself to the Bios, then yes, a format of the compromised drive would not completely eliminate that type of malware. It's also possible to compromise other systems on your network by sharing USB drives on a system that's been compromised with malware.

AV doesen't always detect new malware. If you suspect you're machine was compromised with malware, the only way to be sure it's cleaned from your system is to do a format of drive the and reinstall of the OS from a known good source.

Nice case build. For a mining case, I use BBT style cases built out of two 8ft pieces of 1/8" x 3/4" angled aluminum, one 4ft pieces of 1/8" x 3/4" angled aluminum, one 8 ft 1" x 3" piece of pine, one 4' 1" x 2" pine and #8 1/2" self-tapping screws I get at Lowe's. The case will easily fit 7-8 RX 4XX/5XX if you put them about 1.5" inch apart. The cost of the aluminum angles and screws was ~$45. If you build it out of all wood, the cost would be less than $10.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5xNrlxsCVs



7-8 card frame (Dimension 24" W x 15 3/4"" D x 10 3/4" H):

Build Cuts:

For the Angled Aluminum:

First 8ft (96") Angled Aluminum; 5.75 inch of waste

4x 15 3/4" cuts (58" use) - (Case Depth)
3x 10 3/4" cuts (32.25" use) - (Case Height)

Second 8ft (96") Angled Aluminum; no waste

4x 24" cuts (96" use) - (Case Width)

4ft (48") Angled Aluminum; 37.25" left over

1x 10 3/4" - (Case Height)

And for the wood:

1x3 Pine (Case Bottom):

6 cuts of 14 1/2 (87" use)

1x2 Pine (Card Bracket Support):

1 cut of 24" (24" use)

I also built a 14-15 GPU double tier case for a new build I'm doing with the ASRock H110 BTC Pro mining motherboard.



14 GPU Double Tier Frame (Dimension 28" W x 17" D x 17" H):

Build Cuts:

For the Angled Aluminum:

First 8ft (96") Angled Aluminum; (96" use)

4 x 17" cuts - (Case Height)
1 x 28" cut - (Case Width)

Second 8ft (96") Angled Aluminum; (96" use)

4 x 17" cuts - (Case Depth)
1 x 28" cut - (Case Width)

Third 8ft (96") Angled Aluminum (96"); (84" use)

3 x 28" cut - (Case Width)

And for the wood:

1" x 3" 8ft (96") Pine (85" use):

5 cuts of 17" (Case Bottom)

1" x 3" 4ft (48") Pine (34" use):

2 cuts of 17" (Case Bottom)

1" x 2" 8ft (96") Pine (56" use):

2 cut of 28" (Card Bracket Support)

For cooling it's cheaper to use 20" box fans that have better air flow to cool better and are more efficient compared to individual case fans.

Yes. Essentially the same PSU that powers the motherboard also powers the risers and accessories. The auxillary PSU is just for the VGA power inputs on the cards. Just be sure if you are using SATA or 4-pin molex connectors, to not use more than two connectors per PSU cable max to power risers. Any more than that is a fire hazard since it will overdraw the capacity of the the cable and it could damage the connectors, the cable or the PSU.

Yep, but they seeemed to have vanished. A month ago you could find used HD 7850 2GB cards for less than $50.

The problem with 4GB cards are they are overpriced, since everyone wants to mine ETH. For someone on a budget, the much better value is with 2GB cards. I was mining ZEC with my Pitcarin 2GB cards and switched to UBIQ, which another Ethash coin. It's currently at epoch 6 and has 80 sec block times, so you can mine it with 2GB cards for a long time to come. UBIQ is a nice coin with a low diff and great roadmap. It's a little less profitable to mine than ETH currently, but you can accumulate a lot of coins and IMO it has a much better chance of going up substantially from the ~$1.50 it's at now than ETH does. With free power, you are looking at around $35/month in profit at the current price.

http://whattomine.com/coins/173-ubq-ethash?utf8=%E2%9C%93&hr=20&p=150&fee=2&cost=0.10&hcost=0.0&commit=Calculate

IMO, the best bang-for-buck for a quick ROI is with a Pitcarin series card like the HD7850. You can get used 2GB cards for about $50-$60 and mine UBIQ at 20 MH/s, almost as good as a 1060 3GB card at 1/5 the price. With free power you are looking at a ROI of less than two months.

Add2psu is just a reed relay that connects the power and ground on the PSU's in series so that they will start and shutoff together. They work fine. When using a dual or more PSU setup, it's best to use the same brand and type of PSU's. I also use a single PSU to power the motherboard risers and all the accessories and the larger PSU to power the VGA power only. That is the recommended way to avoid ground loops from mixing diffrent voltages and grounds to devices connected to the motherboard.

You need to keep good airflow around the cards. The more airflow, the better. I place a box fan directly in front of the cards so that it pushes the hot air from the the rig away from the cards and also blows air through the cards. This lowers the temps so you don't need to run the fans on the card too high. If you have 1-2 rigs that may be enough depending on the size of the room and if you have good ventilation. Any more than that, you likely need to look for a way to exhaust the hot air away so that it can be replaced with cooler air and you're not just circulating the same hot air around the cards. Angry Chicken on Youtube posted a video with a creative solution he's going to try using a well ventilated box.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vu-ryc4Wx14

The PSU is the most important component in a mining rig, stick with dual conversion, single rail PSU's from proven name brands like EVGA or Corsair 80+ gold rated or higher. If the PSU fails, at best your whole rig is down and in the worse case it could damage equipment or start a fire. No brand electronics from China are known to cut corners by using second grade components purchased on the black market that don't pass QC of name brand products.

Reputable PSU brands use quality, first-tier components and pay for the 80+ rating certification, which is why they cost more. Slapping a fake certification on a cheap no-name PSU SCREAMS scam, trying to fool people that don't know better. I wouldn't trust that PSU to power a raspberry PI, much less a mining rig. If you can't afford to buy a quality PSU that covers the power requirements of your rig, you can save some money by using two smaller PSU's or a server PSU without risking potentially damaging your investment or burning down your house.

Cryptomined potsed a video with 12 AMD GPU's on a Asus Prime Z270-A using  a 4-way PCI-E 1x splitter expansion card and two m.2 to PCI-E 1x adapters.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VvwDC1zi9x0

According to this fellow mining isn't profitable, but he keeps building 100 rig farms

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cj-NOhv1yJ8

I get ~575 H/s on ZEC with a MSI GTX 1080 GAMING X. 75% TDP +130 MHz core clock +1000 MHz memory clock in Afterburner.

UBIQ is a great coin with a good roadmap. It's only slightly less profitable than mining ETH. Since it has 80 second block times and is currently at epoch 6, the dag size increases are much slower compared to ETH, so it can be mined with 2GB cards for a long time to come.

Angry Chicken on Youtube posted a video about a pretty creative solution based on that principle he's going to try out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vu-ryc4Wx14

Uninstall the drivers in safe mode using DDU and install the previous drivers from the setup that should be in the AMD folder located in the C:\ drive root. You can also download previous driver verisons from guru3d.com, where you can get DDU.

Afterburner and other overclocking software won't work with the 17.7.2 drivers.

https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=1433925.msg20543181#msg20543181

Use v17.7.1 or set the clocks in the Claymore miner.

I use a Gigabyte i7 NUC as my main PC and love it. Awesome system and very low power. Handles VM's, 4K video and anything else you can throw at it except new games.

Memory errors are generally from overclocking the memory too much. Try reducing the memory clock by 50 MHz on the card producing errors and see if it helps.