Consider reading the first post in this thread.
|
|
|
Unless there's something I don't know about, BFG doesn't support the 2Pac. Also this is not the 2Pac support thread.
|
|
|
Seconds. Discounted. Buy one and complain if it fails or GTFO.
|
|
|
Yeah, those black sticks are darn sexy.
I have more asked for right now than I have ready to go, but I've got a box of 'em I need to either get going or strip. Honestly it's about the same amount of work either way, but selling 'em off is the way that gets paid. It's secondary to getting green sticks done and out of course, so no guarantees on time.
|
|
|
Kinda sounded like the wiper was bent a little and no longer making contact with the resistive surface, so it defaulted to full resistance and therefore highest voltage. Probably the extra pressure of a heavier tool helped warp it back into place.
|
|
|
There's still the issue of the stick that won't adjust voltage. Sounds like the potentiometer is damaged.
|
|
|
Yes. I forget exactly who for but I made a guy cables specifically for that interface board sometime last year. PCIe 6-pin to I think a 3/8 crimped ring terminal. Still got a sack of 'em if you're interested. Get me a length and I can make up some cables and have 'em in the mail on Monday, or if you have the tools and materials it's not hard to do yourself.
|
|
|
They also have a small jumper soldered on, like in the prototype pics (you can see it to the left of the buck chip in the bottom right corner). And yes, they're black. And darn sexy. MacEntyre has good taste.
Additionally, I have updated the sales and shipping queues. Two more large orders going out today. More chips arrived earlier than expected so bulk manufacture will resume on Monday. With any luck I'll have the next big order and several small orders out next Friday.
|
|
|
Read the first post for instructions on compiling cgminer with the 2Pac driver on linux.
|
|
|
I'm always looking for BM1384. Got a good stash coming but not for a couple weeks. Several smaller sources have chipped in and I'll have enough next week to keep me busy next week, get partly caught up. I'm still ironing out some processes, got a reflow oven to rebuild and whatnot, but it's looking a lot smoother.
I spent most of this week doing design work, partly because I ran out of ASICs and then the bitshopper stick fiasco. So Saturday through noon today was doing layout work fixing bitshopper sticks, working on the new USB hub and about a day and a half on the new project which I'm actually really excited about. Should have prototype PCBs in a couple weeks, same time as the new hubs, to test out.
In the meantime I'll probably use time to work on Bitfury stuff, BW sticks, get to my warranty pile, and some PSU boards. So if you've got a Compac with issues now's a good time to ask about repairs.
|
|
|
If you decide you want it looked at, let me know and we can probably work something out. I've got a small stack of warranty work I'm passively avoiding but I can always add enough to it to convince me it needs to be taken care of.
Regarding 2Pacs, I'm planning on a second batch. Also I have some bitshopper "seconds" I'm wanting to get rid of, since I had already assembled some before I realized the PCB had issues. Now I've got to either strip 'em for parts or finish and liquidate.
Also, I've got another interesting project in the works to replace the Biggie pod since that's been shelved. That's all you get though, no real news just a teaser.
|
|
|
Check to see if the cables coming out of the PSU are on lugs. If so, it's easy to make PCIe cables with ring terminals for attaching to the PSU. Pretty sure I've done that for at least one person on here in the past.
|
|
|
The buzz probably means your regulator's pushing high current. If the chip heats up, it's more likely the chip than a capacitor. Or something's jacked up with the regulator and it's pushing high voltage, resulting in high heat, but it somehow bottomed out in your hub and turned off the buck hence why no Vcore measurement.
|
|
|
Just to make it clear, since I see I didn't actually say this - the bitshopper "seconds" sticks are fully functional, just they have a small wire jumper on 'em to make them work. But work they do.
|
|
|
Forgot if I mentioned it here already, but I screwed up the bitshopper PCB order. Somehow I sent an old version of the gerber files out and left an error in 'em, so now I have a bunch of PCBs that don't work. It's a simple fix but a fix nonetheless, so we're scrapping 'em and ordering new.
I did have a bunch already made and that's how I noticed the issue.
So I've got some black 2Pacs with bitshopper silkscreens and a bit of manual jumpering I'd like to get rid of, first come first serve. PM if interested.
|
|
|
Or you don't care about an exact-degree heat, and just turn it on when it's cold and off when it's hot.
|
|
|
I run 'em because I already got 'em. There's an undervolted S7LN keeping the shop bathroom from icing up, and some S3 in the robot room keeping it toasty. I'm not sure I'd recommend buying an S3 as a space heater (unless it's pretty cheap), but if you already got one it makes a lot of sense.
|
|
|
I've got an S3 tucked under my desk for a space heater. It's so quiet I don't even notice it. They're excellent for that purpose.
|
|
|
More sticks shipping out today, including Canada. There's an issue with bitshopper sticks that'll have to be addressed, so I went ahead and hit up the small order queue with green sticks to the proportion that bitshoppers had been sent out. The next batch of green sticks will be reserved for large order queue. I don't know how many yet but more will be going out Friday.
|
|
|
Hot air will soften the epoxy enough to pop the heatsink off, but I'm not sure what it'll take to dissolve the epoxy off the chips. The black stuff's tough.
|
|
|
|