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So I've slowly been able to get most things working on the Moonlander 2. With that said, why do some "Misbehave" which ultimately won't allow me to mine. What is misbehaving and how do I fix the issue?
An example would be
URL: prohashing.com:3333
User: xxxxx
Password: c=Verge
Not sure about misbehaving, but you can get rid of that password argument, that will tell it to only mine Verge (you want it to mine whatever happens to be the most profitable at the moment). You can still take 100% of your payout in Verge. |
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I'm using my 3 to mine on prohashing with a payout of Verge. Doesn't make a lot of sense to mine LTC imo with how little you earn, better to pick a coin that trades under a dollar, stockpile some, and hope it goes way up in price.
Can you explain how to obtain Verge using this key? [/quote] On prohashing it automatically mines the most profitable scrypt coin and you can get your payout in the coin of your choice. |
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So what’s everyone mining? You using these as lottery or are you mining something for a HODL? Anyone hit a lottery?
I'm using my 3 to mine on prohashing with a payout of Verge. Doesn't make a lot of sense to mine LTC imo with how little you earn, better to pick a coin that trades under a dollar, stockpile some, and hope it goes way up in price. |
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Someone had this same issue early today and this fixed it:
There are some issues with the default servers. Try to use the server 83.169.38.218 (just paste it in the first textbox), then wait a little bit and see if it works.
For the people using the MacOS wallet, in tools and then network, you paste that address instead of the electrum one, you uncheck the use ssl and that's it, it should work pretty fast. I'm quoting here because took me ages to find something for Mac Users. Thanks! Worked perfectly for me.  |
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These have been working great for me on litecoinpool.org, mine have been going for over a week now without any issues. I was thinking about trying out prohashing.com, anyone mining there with these? What do I need to enter in the start_moonlander2 file for prohashing (I have three sticks if that matters re: difficulty)? Thanks as always Would just changing: stratum+tcp://us.litecoinpool.org:3333 to stratum+tcp://prohashing.com:3333. work? Yes...you just need to update pool URL and login credentials (if they are different). Thanks. Seems to be working well on there too. |
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These have been working great for me on litecoinpool.org, mine have been going for over a week now without any issues. I was thinking about trying out prohashing.com, anyone mining there with these? What do I need to enter in the start_moonlander2 file for prohashing (I have three sticks if that matters re: difficulty)? Thanks as always Would just changing: stratum+tcp://us.litecoinpool.org:3333 to stratum+tcp://prohashing.com:3333. work? |
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These have been working great for me on litecoinpool.org, mine have been going for over a week now without any issues. I was thinking about trying out prohashing.com, anyone mining there with these? What do I need to enter in the start_moonlander2 file for prohashing (I have three sticks if that matters re: difficulty)? Thanks as always |
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I have 1x Moonlander working fine on my Windows PC. I have a couple more arriving soon and would like to set up on a Pi and hub.
Who has an "idiots guide" i can follow from the beginning - Linux is new to me
Thanks
Check Astrali's post on the first page. |
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Ok I asked before if the fan was supposed to be wicked loud. Well I think mine is crapping out now. The thing screams like it has a bad bearing. My question is can I disconnect the fan and put a USB fan to blow on it and provide the cooling? I would even put 2 on it since they are so quiet. One pointed at the heat sink and one at the other side. Ohh and is the fan easy to remove?
Same issue . I pulled the bad fan and I run very well using an external fan. I think three fans are reported as defective by you me and a third person I have a video of them on YouTube wait for it: Boom here it is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-4QqZKMKWACheers. So do I just unbolt it and unplug it from the board and I'm good to go? Eventually planning to try modding them from their current 3.4mhs The fans are sleeve bearing, so they will spin up faster after the sleeve is worn in which causes them to make more noise. Nothing wrong with them, just couldn't afford putting in 5+ USD ball bearing fans for a $50 miner. Only issue with first batch fans is that they overshot the RPM after sleeve wear-in so they spin closer to 13K RPM instead of 10K. Next batch will have this resolved and should have some extra fans if anyone has one that spins way too fast. FYI high quality ball bearing replacement for these would be something like this, but as you can see they are not cheap. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/sunon-fans/MC25100V2-000U-A99/259-1569-ND/2757806Thanks for putting a fan on there anyway, it's much appreciated. Mine run pretty quiet and keep my three sticks cool enough without the hassle and cost of an external fan. |
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What’s up 64brotendos..so I recently found a hub that I would assume successfully supports my MLD2s(as of today I’m currently waiting on shipment) here it is: http://m.usbgear.com/10pchgrhubmini.htmlSo this is more oriented towards the people who only have a couple sticks and don’t feel like spending all your Christmas money on a big ol’ Hub, this was about 150-160 total with 2 day air ups shipping. According to the description it has 5v/2.1a (max) per port, so for me, hitting about 4.20 stock settings at 756clock, hopefully up to 5mh/s this should work.. Let me know if this was a good buy or waste of my money. And if you think this will be capable of handling three LMD2s(I don’t see why not ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ but I am new to mining so who knows😒 I'm running 3 sticks @756 on the Plugable hub without any issues ($30 on Amazon). |
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Thinking about it, I'm not sure if the new driver I've been trying to download is the new one. I've been doing it through my RPi's terminal, and both the new driver and old are named the exact same thing... so maybe it has just been downloading the same thing over and over again? Any ideas on how to specify the new driver?
You should see build number 38-g106390a9 if you are running latest version at the top. Just download the latest release binary on my releases page and copy it over to your pi... So if I see 5.4.2-34-gea3ba70 that's the old version? I was running the old version originally on my RPi but I thought when I wget the new one it would overwrite the old one? How do I delete the old version and run the new one? Just create a new directory (mkdir bfgnew; cd bfgnew) and when wget the file into there. Use bfgminer --version to check that you're running the correct one. Yup, that worked. So the best way to do it is to create a new directory each time a new version of the software comes out? |
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Thinking about it, I'm not sure if the new driver I've been trying to download is the new one. I've been doing it through my RPi's terminal, and both the new driver and old are named the exact same thing... so maybe it has just been downloading the same thing over and over again? Any ideas on how to specify the new driver?
You should see build number 38-g106390a9 if you are running latest version at the top. Just download the latest release binary on my releases page and copy it over to your pi... So if I see 5.4.2-34-gea3ba70 that's the old version? I was running the old version originally on my RPi but I thought when I wget the new one it would overwrite the old one? How do I delete the old version and run the new one? |
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They are 2000 currently from bitmain for preorders 4 months from now and going for 4500-5000 in hand on ebay. good luck
Yeah, the EBay prices are outrageous, my guess is those are people that don't know what they're doing. Pretty easy to find resellers for around 3K though, but even that isn't too smart if you're paying for electricity. Eh, guess I'll stick to just buying coins. |
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I know they are going for under $1500 new direct from Bitmain, but I'd be willing to pay $2000 for a used one in hand. Thanks either way!
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I'd just say that your hub there that you say supports 4 sticks, didn't even support 2 at decent speeds for me. Wouldn't recommend. Note taken, thanks. I will update with better recommendation Edit: replaced for /ya9ho5y5]Anker 60W USB3 HubThe Plugable 60W hub is less than half the price and works great with these sticks. |
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With ~11 MLD2's one reaches (imho) the limit of what makes sense before it is time to move up the big step to an Antminer L3+, these are about 3x more costefficient (MH/unit_cost). With the expected increases in hashing power over the next 6mo, returns will fade fast (unless the price of LTC goes to the sky).
How do you figure that 3x number? The L3+ is over 100x faster and costs a bit less than 25x as much by my calculations. |
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will they ever be a a system like antminer that replaces gpu for the new cypto currencies the antminer made gpus no good for mining
or do people just make new systems for what ever will be the best thing to mine just like antminer did with ASICS
new to all this so might be a stupid qustion just trying to learn fast
There already are a couple by Bitmain that mine script coins (D3, L3+). |
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New driver release is out, sorry for the delay and thanks for being patient. I added some last minute debugging code to better help people with issue and rule out any hardware problems. The compile binaries include the big restart fix, so these should technically hash forever without needing any manual restarts (as long as the power supply is semi-stable and you haven't really screwed up the voltages). Let me know if the binaries run fine on respective systems...might have mis-compiled something while trying to keep track of every architecture  https://github.com/jstefanop/bfgminer/releases/tag/bfgminer-5.4.2-futurebit2-beta2Ok Astrali, how do I replace the old driver with this new one? |
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Are all those available frequencies safe to run without more cooling? I have no option to measure but "beast" gets pretty hot when I try to kiss it goodnight @796 or more (room temp. never exceeds 20C/70F)...
I'd be interested to know that too. I backed my three down to 700 but the heatsink on the non-fan side is still too hot to touch for more than a few seconds. I have a temp gun, what's a safe temp to shoot for? Stock cooling solutions is good up to ~800 MHZ, after that you get into overheat territory (not to mention parabolic increase in current draw). The buck and ASIC can handle max frequency but I wouldn't run them unless you can measure temperature and its under 80C on the top of the small heatsink (translates to about 90C ASIC core). Anything past that your reducing the lifetime of the ASIC/buck. This will be even worse if you have a bunch of them together (since they are sucking each others hot air). Wow, that's really hot. Mine will burn your finger after more than a few seconds and it's reading 48C (118F) on the rear heatsink. I can't even imagine hitting 80C. |
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