You understand nothing about electricity or circuits and how they work.


There is a reason why some cards have an 8 pin and a 6 pin socket. The 6 pin just supplies 3/4 more power on top of the 8 pin and is used for more power hungry cards such as the 1080.  First lets get it all straightened out as to what all those wires are for.  The top row are all 12vd+ wires that are all COMMON to each other.  The bottom row is DC Ground. Or in other words the negative of the 12v power supply rail.   Having each wire positive or negative goto its own pin that ultimately is soldered to the circuit board keeps all the current split up and going into the circuit board instead of ALL of the current going thru one or two or even just 8 pins.  They are only rated for so much current flow.  Exceed that rating and things get hot and melt. 10 amps going thru 7 pins (7 is half of 14, remember one half is pos and the other neg) instead of just 4 reduces the current flow in each pin of the socket.  This also reduces the flow in each of the feed wires that lead from the plug in the power supply going into your PCIE power wires by splitting up the wires into multiple pos and neg wires.

I have (4) 580s and (1) 570 and If I could turn back time to the point where I bought them I would have gotten GTX 1060s or taken the money and bought what I could of some 1070s or 1080s and the balance in 1050 TIs.  I get around 25mh/s out of my 580s stock.  I need to get my lazy butt in gear and do a flash on them and get some more out of them but Ive been busy with getting my utility room ready for summer and sticking my rigs in there. I reckon it also all depends on what you want to mine also.  Im in it for just the $$$. Dont care what my rigs mine as long as it yields max profit. Good luck with your venture.

Thats a very dumb idea.  It would be smarter to take the enormous amount of cash needed to pay for that big of a solar farm to suit mining rig needs and just use the $$$ to buy MORE GPU's!  The rigs will more than pay for the power consumed and then plenty of profit along with ROI.  Treehuggers are some of the most illogical creatures!

Im rocking .05 per kw/h here in west central Indiana.  So my power bill for my rigs aint nothing compared to what I am paying for GPU's weekly.

You are crazy. It takes DECADES for solar to pay for itself.  Do you have a clue how much room all the solar panels and battery banks take up? Do you know anything about a solar power system other than it has pretty reflective panels and wires attached?  Have any idea how much the power converters would cost? It aint cheap. None of it.  And then there is the problem of WHO IS GOING TO MAINTAIN IT? Dreamers....they keep on dreaming.

Well BTC just broke 11k ...all bets are off.  You wont be seeing GPU's returning to remotely close to decent prices on the used or retail market. Good luck my friends...Ive got 18 of them and getting more every week as I catch a deal (for these times anyway) here or there.

(1) 1080
(3) 1060
(7) 1050 TI
(1) RX 550
(1) RX 560
(1) RX 570
(4) RX 580

Im going for it!

Give it 30-60 days and ebay will be flooded with the miners that just couldnt afford to stay in the game and will be selling their equipment off.  The GPU market is already on borrowed time.  More and more GPU's in stock every day and prices coming down.  Just give it 30-90 days and GPU prices will be substantially lower.  If BTC ever gets back up to over 10k then who knows what will happen again with the GPU market. Most likely back up again.

Your master electrician should know that the NEC states the the ground rod connects to the ground bar in THE FIRST DISCONNECT DEVICE which is typically your main panel in your house.  If your main panel is the first disconnect device then it should have the gorund and neutral jumpered together.  Your shed should have a #6 wire running to the ground bus bar in your main panel (house) and there shouldnt be any ground rod at the shed let alone connected to the directly to the shed main panel. Shed should also NOT have ground and neutral bus bar jumpered.

What is it with the clowns hating on newbies?  We all had to start somewhere and im sure "your" newbie questions annoyed the heck out of someone that already knew the answer when "you" were a newbie.  So what. Be a teacher! Dont be a richard.  How hard is it to copy and paste a link to the answer if "you" are too lazy to type.

Well lots of electrical questions here.  First lets establish that your wall outlet is 120 NOT 110 (youll need to use the correct voltage for calculations).  1900w is almost to the line of being dangerous by about .17 amps.  The National Electrical Code states that you can only run a load up to 80% of your branch circuit rating (In your case a 20a circuit) for CONTINOUS DUTY. To figure amperage you just take your total watts divide by volts (120v) and the answer is amps. So in your case 1900w/120v = 15.83A on a branch circuit rated for 16A for continuous duty.
To determine total number of watts (for continuous duty on a circuit) you take the Branch rating (amps number on circuit breaker) and times that by 120v. The answer to that is in watts multiply that by 80% (..  IE: 15a circuit = 15Ax120v=1800w x .8=1440w for continuous duty. (A rig is continuous duty).
The reason for this 80% derating is to prevent excess heating of wiring, circuit breaker and the outlets.  Heat causes metal to warp, form bad connections, breakers to fail and ultimately one or more of these situations results in a fire.  You DONT want a fire in your wall or in your Breaker Panel.
30A circuit are optimal but you can easily use dedicated 20A circuits.  They will each provide 1920w for continuous duty.  You will need a 20a breaker for each circuit. Dont make the mistake of plugging in a 15a power strip into a 20a outlet AND end up exceeding the rating of the 15a power strip by plugging in too much into the power strip. You can use (2) parallel or even (3) parallel duplex outlets on one 20a circuit to give you more outlet availability for each branch circuit.  Each duplex (standard house outlet) has 2 plug ins (sockets). Just make sure you have the electrician mark eat duplex by its circuit breaker number that feeds each so you can keep everything straight.
The A/C unit must (Per the NEC) have its own dedicated circuit breaker feed to the outlet that it is plugged into, again to prevent overheating of the outlet, wiring, breaker. Since youll be running 20a anyway I would go ahead and install a 20a circuit for the window a/c unit so you can go big 120v a/c unit if you have to later. 12awg Wire is cheap enough now.

The GPU gods hooked me up today.  I snagged (2) RX 580 (1) GTX 1080 all from Newegg and way cheaper than what most are selling for.  $399 and $439 for the 570s!  I use the google groups for alerts.  You have to have your phone or PC ready to go for places like newegg. Save your card info except for the CCV code and goto town on PLACE ORDER button!

Say what? An A/C unit IS A DEHUMIDIFIER.  Thats how an a/c unit removes heat.  It is the humidity in the air that carries the heat.  The humid air contacts the cold evaporator and the heat is drawn into the refrigerant within the evaporator. The water falls to a catch pan and is drained away from the unit.  The refrigerant takes the heat out to the condenser coil outside and it is then rejected to the atmosphere.  Then the cycle starts all over.  (This is the super simplified version without getting into pressures, compressor, metering and fans.

Your feeder #1 AWG wires are not the same as your #6 Ground wire.  There should never be any voltage on your ground wire and never any current flow on it either UNLESS there is an electrical fault in the shed thin there will be current flow until the breaker that feeds the fault trips which is almost instantaneous.

Is it cheaper than .05 kw/h? Thats what it is here in West Central IN.  

You should have a #6 solid copper running from your ground rod to your ground bus bar in your shed panel.  Your shed panel should NOT have the neutral and ground bus bar jumpered (IE: Not Bonded).  Your shed ground bus bar should have a #6 solid copper wire going all the way to the ground bus bar in your home (assuming your home panel is the first disconnect device after the Meter.  (Sometimes a meter base will have a disconnect and in that case the neutral and ground bus bars should be jumpered together there in the meter base panel and NOT anywhere else.

I might end up building or buying a shed myself just for mining rigs (easier to cool than a whole 3 car garage).  If I go big enough ill just have the power company run the shed its own 200a feed and install a meter there.  Just depends on what crypto does over the next 5 months or so.

I think you will find that the southern humidity and heat during the summer that you will NOT be able to keep your rigs cool enough.  Circulating 90 degree plus air does not cool much of anything. A fan does NOT make cool air.  It only circulates the air surrounding it and is slave to whatever its temp is.  You will probably need to install an a/c unit.  Either big window unit or a smaller system (Mini split will do well here).