You saw what voltage vary +-5V?  Woefully subjective and vague.  Voltage ideal for all 120 v appliances can vary well beyond 5 volts.  Perfectly good even for motorized appliances - that are less robust.

Incandescent bulbs can dim to 50% intensity.  Or brighten to double intensity. Voltage changes that large are perfectly good for all electronics.  Computers can withstand even larger variations.  If voltage drops lower, then electronics do a normal power off.  Why should normal voltage variations cause concern?  And why is that harmful?

That and other protectors completely ignore +-5V changes.  Its let-through voltage is 330 volts.  That means 120 volts must well exceed 330 volts before it does anything. What does a protector do when voltages vary +-5v?

If a Leviton is properly earthed at the service entrance (ie at breaker box), then everything inside has effective protection.  Leviton is effective when connected that close (low impedance) to earth ground.  Lesser transients are already made irrelevant by what must exist inside every appliance.

If you can see it on a multimeter, then it is not a surge. If you saw it on a multimeter, relevant numbers were posted. Hearsay is routine when one cannot  provide numbers.

What is damaged by a micro surge?  No number will be posted because propaganda invents a fear called micro surges - that never causes damage - that is undefined by a number - that cannot be measured by a meter.  Anyone who first learned numbers would know that.

For example, how many volts does an ethernet suffer without damage?  2000 volts.  A micro surge that is well below 2000 volts somehow causes damage?  Yes - when someone does not attack their source for not providing honesty - a number.  No numbers is how scam artists recruit the most naive.  Honestly can only exists when numbers are provided.

Destructive surges are hundreds of thousands of joules.  An effective protector connects something less than 50,000 amps low impedance (ie less than 10 feet) and harmlessly to earth.  Then hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate harmlessly outside. Then micro surges also cause no damage.   No numbers (and we all learned this from what promoted Mission Accomplished) are a first indication of scams and lies.  Every honest recommendation also says where hundreds of thousands of joules are harmlessly absorbed.  Always.

Where did he provide even one number that defines a micro surge?  Show us a meter number that says otherwise.

Destructive surges are characterized by an 8/20 microsecond transient - another damning number.  Learn this from any MOV datasheet.  Meters can never measure that transients. Only the informed would know that.  Numbers are ignored when ineffective (near zero) protection is recommended by myths and hearsay.

Micro surges are made irrelevant by protection already inside every appliance.  How many clocks, GFCIs, dishwashers, LED bulbs, radios, TVs, and recharging devices are you replacing daily or weekly due micro surges?  None?  What needs protection from micro surges?  Smoke detectors?  What protects THE most important appliance when any surge exists?  Best protection is already inside every appliance.  Micro surge are irrelevant when reality and numbers exist.

An informed consumer earths a 'whole house' protector so that a typically destructive surge (and micro surges) do not cause damage.  Most only know otherwise by ignoring spec numbers.  The fewer and informed properly earth one 'whole house' protector. Then all surges cause no damage ... those damn spec numbers.

Protection from all surges (ie direct lightning strikes, micro surges, etc) has always been provided by properly earthing a 'whole house' protector such as one from Leviton.  Protection increases with every foot shorter to earth AND with every foot of separation between protector and computer.

Of course not.  Surge protection is about connecting hundreds of thousands of joules on a low impedance (ie less than 10 foot) path to earth.  If not at or in a breaker box. a protector is not doing protection.

Protectors that would 'block' or 'absorb' a surge are selling a magic elixir. Anyone can read its numbers.  Those adjacent protectors only claim to absorb hundreds or a thousand (near zero) joules. Effective protectors are connecting devices to what actually does protection.  That means destructive surge current are not anywhere inside a house.  That means hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate harmlessly outside.

Amazing since nothing created a 200,000 volt surges. Since he cannot possibly measure such voltages.  And since Surgex only claims 6000 volt protection.  Every answer needs numbers.  Then fiction and outright lies are quickly exposed.  In this case, he even ignored Surgex and Furman specification numbers.  He demonstrates why so many recommend near zero protectors from Surgex and Furman.

We know other plug-in (appliance adjacent) protectors are also ineffective. A protector adjacent to any appliance must either 'block' or 'absorb' a surge.  Anyone can also read those spec numbers.  How does its 2 cm part 'block' a surge that three miles of sky cannot?  How do hundreds of joules inside a protector absorb surges that are hundreds of thousands of joules?  More damning numbers.

Surgex, et al can sell magic elixirs because so many just *know* rather then learn.  Meanwhile a solution proven by over 100 years of science and experience harmlessly connects surges earth. Costs about $1 per protected appliance. Then hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate harmlessly outside.  Using a concept that Ben Franklin validated in 1752.  Franklin also did not use magic boxes.  Franklin used the only item always implemented when surges do not damage - earth ground.

Only the most easily deceived would believe a magic box from Surgex or Furman provides useful surge protection.  Even manufacturer's specification numbers say otherwise.

Anybody can learn from numbers. Surgex is electrically equivalent to a 600 joules protector.  Only UPS typically have less protection.  Surgex is promoted using half truths and outright lies - to many who only learn from advertising, hearsay, and urban myth.

Depends on the scope of the work.  No inspections are needed to replace receptacles, switches, or light fixtures.  Inspections are required (more often determined by local codes) when major electrical work is performed such as running new circuits.  Anyone can change a circuit breaker - no inspection required.

State defines what codes apply.  Local jurisdictions determine what requires inspection.

Scope of the work determines if that town requires an electrical inspection.

Meanwhile, only an informed DIYer should do electrical work.  That means first learning from an electrician or from someone else who knows this stuff.  That means he is on site to observe you or demonstrate how it is done.  After you read how it should be done.

Any guy should have learned and be able to do the simple stuff.

First, remember what an effective protector does. Best protection is a hardwire to what absorbs hundreds of thousands of joules.  That is the earth ground.  Unfortunately we cannot connect every wire in every incoming cable (AC electric, phone) directly to earth.  So a protector does what a hardwire does better.

Critical is that hardwire (or protector) connect be low impedance (ie less than 10 feet, no sharp wire bends, etc). That connection to and quality of earth ground electrodes should have most of your attention.

Lightning (a typical surge) is 20,000 amps.  So a minimal 'whole house' protector should be 50,000 amps.  Unfortunately that Square D is rated only 22,500 amps.  So at least two should be installed.  Other manufacturers also provide a 50,000 amp version for a similar price.  Many manufacturers of integrity provide these effective solutions.  Available in Lowes, Home  Depot, and electrical supply houses.

50,000 amps defines protector life expectancy over many surges.  Earth ground defines protection during each surge.

Again, a protector is only as effective as its earth ground.

Most likely source of a fire is that plug-in protector.  Read its numbers.  How many joules does it claim to absorb?  Hundreds?  A destructive surge can be hundreds of thousands of joules.  Some (even fire houses) have seen the threat.

Your computer will even convert hundreds joules surges into rock solid and stable low voltage DC to power its semiconductors.  That same energy could even destroy the protector.  If a thermal fuse does not blow fast enough, then catastrophic failure (worst case a fire) can result.

APC recently admitted to maybe millions of their protector must be removed immediately.  View a CPC.gov site for further information.

A computer that overheats only crashes - mis-executes software.  No hardware damage.  Let hardware cool and software works just fine again.  Insufficiently cooled computer does not create fire - does not destroy hardware.  Furthermore, heat is a powerful diagnostic tool to locate defective hardware.  Any computer that does not operate in a 100 degree F room may have defective semiconductors that will get worse with age.

Relevant numbers are needed.  For example, a PSU on 230 volts should withstand spikes up to (somewhere around) 1000 volts.  Second, a surge protector for 230 volt operation may have a let-through voltage of somewhere above 500 volts.  That means it does absolutely nothing (remains inert) until voltage well exceeds 500 volts.

Third, surges that actually do damage are all but invited inside to go hunting for earth destructively via appliances.  Destructive via appliances such as the furnace, dishwasher, clocks, etc.  So if any computer needs protection, then so does everything else.  Therefore the solution is to earth a surge BEFORE it can enter a building.

These 'whole house' solutions not only exist.  They have been standard in facilities that could not have damage even 100 years ago.

  That is exactly what does not happen.  Power cycling does not harm any incandescent bulb.  Again, summarized from the industry 'bible' are the only things that reduce bulb life expectancy.

Bulbs changing intensity with a 1000 watt load suggests a wiring problem.  Critical is to identify intensity changes on that circuit AND on any other circuit.  Since in most cases, that wiring problem is only a nuisance.  But in some rare cases, it is a serious human safety issue.

AC voltage is 120 volts.  If voltage is constantly exceeding 127 volts, then bulbs are brighter and last only half as long.  But again, what is changing intensity and how (dimmer or brighter) are critically important facts.  Do not make conclusions based in speculation.  You do not know yet what is causing bulb failure.  Dimming would only increase bulb life expectancy (irrelevant if by a lot or a little). Dimming (and power cycling) does not shorten the life expectancy of any incandescent bulb.
 
Also discussed was damage due to vibration - such as someone walking across the upstairs floor.

Your circuits, if properly wired, should handle 1000 watts easily.  Otherwise even a clothes iron could not work.

A large inrush current does not cause a voltage increase (if wiring is correct).  It would cause a voltage reduction.  A voltage reduction means longer bulb life expectancy.  Your conclusion contradicts your observation.

Recommended was what you should do.  Since if that load creates a higher voltage, then you have a serious human safety problem.

LEDs would not address the reason for a high voltage that causes premature bulb failure.  A serious human safety issue might explain it.  Never fix a problem by ignoring the reason for that problem.  Always first understand a problem before solving it.  This one is so simple IF some a minute of labor results in some useful numbers.

  Are bulbs incandescent or CFL?  This will assume incandescent.  Bulb life expectancy is determined only by two electrical factors - hours of operation and voltage (temperature).  127 volts on 120 volt circuits means a bulb will burn out twice as fast.  A mining computer will only lower or leave unchanged voltage.  That will either increase or leave unchanged a bulb's life expectancy.

So, does bulb intensity change when computers power cycle?  Only that (and measured voltage) indicates anything electrical that affects bulb life expectancy.

A second mechanical factor applies.  If bulbs are powered when, for example, something falls on the above floor, then that vibration can harm a bulb's filament.

Nothing in software affects bulbs.  Bulb life expectancy only decreases when voltage increases.  Short term voltage increases are indicated by changing intensity.  Constantly too high voltage is identified by measuring either with a digital meter or a 'Kill A Watt'.

That means it should work fine at 100 degrees F.  Like other semiconductors, it must not suffer a hardware failure until temperatures are hundreds of degrees higher.  35 degrees only says software crashes may occur when the room exceeds 100 degrees F.  Which means semiconductors that are even happy and normally at 100 degrees C do not fail.  At those temperatures and due to insufficient design, some semiconductors can cause software crashes.  That does not damage hardware.  Cool semiconductors and it executes same software just fine - for Intel, AMD, FPGA, GPU, or ASIC designs.

Hardware damage never occurs at these near zero temperatures.  These normal operating temperatures include a room at 100 degrees F, semiconductors at 100 degrees C, and no hardware damage.

Hardware damage does not daisy chain into other parts - except when damage is flame.  Flame must never happen in any electronics.  Flame only occurs when a design is overtly defective due to technical ignorance or cost controls.  Flame means a complete design failure in that product and probably others from the same manufacturer.  Flames must never happen no matter what environmental act caused that failure - even a direct lightning strike.

No burn indication is in the picture.  Did it spit flames or just smoke - a major difference that many overlook?  Smoke is acceptable.  Flame means all products from that manufacturer may require a major recall.

Eight signal wire connections exist - six power connections are not visible.  Failure of one capacitor is typically a manufacturing defect - either due to a defective part or due to a cost controller (ie business school graduate) doing the design.  Cost controls actually increase costs as well as reduce product quality.

Turn off hottest hardware without any fan.  It never gets hotter.  Hottest spot - where failures happen - only get cooler when power is removed and no fans spin.  Nothing gets hotter when power is cut.  No special care is necessary for power offs.  A chip at 100 degrees C does not increase to over 300 degrees C when power is off - so no hardware can be damaged.  All hardware has no damage even if the power off is due to the nearby nuclear power plant shutting down.  However unexpected power loss can harm unsaved data.

Most all failures are directly traceable to manufacturing defects.  If hardware fails (when new) at maximum temperature doing maximum work, then the hardware is 100% defective (even though it works fine at lower temperatures).  That is true for all hardware - AMD and Intel, GPUs, and ASICs.  A highest temperature failure today means to expect future failures (months or years later) at lower temperatures. How to keep defective hardware working?  Lower temperature of the incoming air flow.

Most destructive failures are due to manufacturing defects - not due to bad ground, dirty power, or bad PSU.  Those three suspects only cause software crashes - do not damage ASICs.  Fix those defects and all semiconductors and capacitors must be just fine.

In that one failure, informative would be a picture of the actual destroyed C456 capacitor and the adjoining (electrically connected) parts.

  Any conclusion only based in observation is classic junk science.  Best evidence is a dead body.  Exactly what blade part died.  If you do not know that, then nothing was learned from the experience.

Nothing in a properly designed computer can catch fire even if fans are not blowing.  Heat (temperatures that low) do not cause fire.  And do not damage semiconductors.  In fact, Intel hardware simple modifies its operation to create less heat and no crash if overheated.  Heat causes AMD hardware to software crash - without damage.

Using pentiums, hardware was heated to maximum temperatures to learn how hot that CPU could operate - slightly above 300 degrees F.  Hardware damage does not start until temperatures exceed 400 degrees.  Operating a CPU at higher clock speeds only means software crashes occur at lower temperatures - typically above 100 degrees C.  Even that is not hot enough to cause hardware damage or fire.

So again, did you learn from damage?  Or just speculate?  Exactly what part burned - and why?  That study may identify a defective manufacturer.  Defective hardware would only be a symptom.

I assert nothing.  That is engineering fact using concepts such as superposition. However let's assume you need information based only in hearsay.  Well, this cite is famous for describing effective protection with numbers. But we will not provide those numbers. Instead we will only provide same logic that somehow proves a double conversion UPS does protection. That well understood quote from Polyphaser (an industry benchmark known only to the few who really understand surge protection) should be obvious.

That simply repeats, in subjective terms, what has always been known about a UPS - double conversion or otherwise.  Anyone can read its specification numbers.  That surge protection is obviously near zero.  And sold to naive consumers as 100% protection - because those consumers routinely ignore facts and numbers.

You have zero reasons to believe a UPS provides any effective protection.  That double conversion UPS is a direct connection from the surge source to electronics.  Since you did not learn basic and relevant concepts (current source, equipotential, conductivity, impedance, etc), then you are easily scammed with myths that are technically bogus.

What is a battery in an AC-DC-AC conversion?  A  direct short - had you learned basic electrical concepts taught to first year engineers.  That is the point.  They easily scam using half truths and lies - that no technically trained person would fall for.

Please post one specification number that proves any double conversion UPS provides that protection.  They know a majority of adults are easily scammed by always ignoring specification numbers.

Lightning can be 20,000 amps.  So a minimally sufficient protector is 50,000 amps.  Some Square D protectors may be smaller meaning two might be necessary.

Electric company only inspects grounds for human safety.  Grounding for transistor safety means meeting and exceeding what safety codes call for.  For example, a solid bare copper wire connects breaker box to earth.  If that wire goes up over the foundation and down to earth, then it is too long, has sharp bends, and is not separated from other non-grounding wires.  A low impedance connection means that wire must be shorter and not have any sharp bends - to made an earth ground connection sufficient.

BTW, above is only the 'secondary' protection layer.  Each layer is only defined by what actually does protection - an earth ground - not a protector.  Homeowners are encouraged to also inspect their 'primary' protection layer.  A picture demonstrates what to inspect:
   http://www.tvtower.com/fpl.html

Those standard protection circuits are for other anomalies.  All PSUs have filters and surge protection for AC mains.  An incoming surge on that Monster protector was also outgoing into the attached computer.  Protection inside the PSU was so robust as to make that tiny surge irrelevant.  But that same tiny surge also destroyed even tinier protection inside the Monster.

Protection is always about where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate.  How many joules did the Monster claim to absorb?  Hundreds?  Thousand?  IOW near zero protection.

Protection means no surge is anywhere inside a building.  If anything needs protection, then everything needs protection.  Facilities that cannot have damage properly earth a 'whole house' protector.  A solution proven by over 100 years of science and experience.  And little unknown to a majority only educated by advertising, hearsay, and speculation.

Ethernet cables already have robust protection - typically rated at 2000 volts.  What can overwhelm that protection?  Destructive surges typically occur maybe once every seven years.  And must be connected low impedance (ie 'less than 10 feet') to earth BEFORE entering the building.  Otherwise that current will go hunting for earth destructively via computers - especially on AC - even on ethernet ports.

BTW double conversion UPS often have less protection than power strips.  Anyone can read its specification numbers.  Most do not.  How many joules does that double conversion UPS claim to absorb?  Notice a tiny number.

All electronics have that robust protection.  Your concern is a transients (maybe once every seven years) that may overwhelm that existing protection.

Adjacent protectors have a history of compromising (bypassing) protection already inside that PSU.  A completely different solution (also called a surge protector) connects destructive transients to earth BEFORE it can enter.

If your PSU needs protection, then so does all other household appliances.  Informed consumers earth a 'whole house' protector.  Even a power strip or UPS protector needs that protection.

Effective protectors make direct lightning strikes irrelevant.  Lightning may be 20,000 amps.  So a minimal 'whole house' protector is 50,000 amps.  This will cost about $1 per protected appliance.  How much was that lesser power strip or UPS protector?

Protectors do not do protection.  Protection is provided by what harmlessly absorbs hundreds of thousandis of joules.  A 'whole house' solution is effective when connected low impedance (ie 'less than 10 feet') to an upgraded earth ground: single point earth ground.  Most important component in any protection system (to even protect that PSU) is what any effective protector connects to - single point earth ground.  That (and not a protector) is the 'art' of protection.

Physical shape of receptacles and plugs defines its current (wattage) rating.  A NEMA15-5 is only a 15 amp outlet. Meaning it can only power appliances of less than 1600 watts.

However most computers (with 600 and 750 watt power supplies) are only consuming less than 200 watts.  And maybe up to 350 watts peak for a very short duration.  So we tell that computer assembler that he needs a 700 watt supply.  Then help lines are not crowded out by teaching basic electrical concepts. 

Is your system so hot as to also toast bread?  If not, then it properly consumers 300 watts maximum.  To say more means you must buy and measure with a meter.

 Nasty stuff from high load stuff is maybe as much as tens of volts.  All appliances are so robust as to make that only noise.  In fact, electronics convert those spikes into rock solid, low voltage DC to power it semiconductors.  So called interior surges are myths.  Numbers redefine that as noise.

Meanwhile that power strip protector is typically so grossly undersized as to also need protection only provide by a properly earthed 'whole house' protector.  No protector does protection.  The power strip is protected when a 'whole house' protector connects low impedance (ie 'less than 10 feet')  to what does that protection: single point earth ground.

Protection is always about where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate. No power strip claims such numbers.  Hundreds of thousands of joules cause no damage when absorbed by single point earth ground.  Then computers, refrigerator, furnace, smoke detectors, clocks, recharging mobile phones, and power strip protectors are protected.