As in the OP, kits are 0.025BTC apiece and flat 0.01BTC shipping per order. I've only got around a dozen kits in stock - these have really been flying off the shelf.

Start -> Run -> cmd

Navigate to the directory where mining_proxy.exe was downloaded (from Slush's website) - "cd" is the command to change directory.

Once in the folder, type in the "mining_proxy.exe -o whatever" command line with your pool's information.

Slush's stratum proxy can be used for other pools.

"mining_proxy.exe -h" tells you a lot.

For the basics, "mining_proxy.exe -o yourpool -p stratumport -gp localport"

"yourpool" - your pool
"stratumport" - the pool's stratum port
"localport" - the port your machine should listen on for getwork requests, default 8332

The concern is, what I have to tie into is thru-holes on a PCB. I might be able to rig up a simple bus-bar that solders to the surface pads and wraps over to tie into screw terminals slid on top. Would be two different models I reckon, or just ship everything with a screw block and 6-pins crimped onto terminal ends. Eh, two different models is probably best so the people that don't want to mess with it won't have to mess with it - one with 6-pins built in, and the other with just a terminal block and you supply the wires.

That would be handy, but it makes everything more complex for wiring and assembly. I was planning on shipping each one with a pair of extensions, those can be cut up just fine. Kinda the goal was a closed solution for powering Cubes, GPUs and the like without requiring any splicing of wires.

I'll look more into just how much harder it'll be to rig up a terminal block for connecting to, but remember this isn't a machine product, it's a custom build so everything takes time. I might make that standard on higher-power supplies, 1000+ watts.

Probably looking around 0.06BTC shipped. I'm sending a pair to a guy to test out and review right now.

The fuse just blew in one of mine yesterday. There was actually an internal issue where the freewheel diode on the internal relay's coil failed (possibly what took out the fuse, not sure) but without it the relay coil arced over and shorted some turns - still clicked the relay, but allowed about 12 times the normal current through the relay drive transistor which fried it. Back up and running now, only slightly jerry-rigged. So I'd recommend before replacing the fuse, to give the board a once-over and make sure none of your parts have craters in them just in case.

There's a few things that I really like - solid equipment, niche markets and fair prices. Happy to use what skills I have to support the Bitcoin economy.

The prototype is solid. I should have four of these available in the next day or so if anyone's wanting.

Blade upgrade kits are in stock and shipping. Parts for 20%, 30% and 40% speed increase in one kit, along with cooling components and parts to improve VRM stability. Got about 30 kits available at present.

Blades are selling for $1000? Group Buy costs (if they're still in stock anywhere) are around $400 exchanged, for 10GH (14 if you can overclock).

Vardiff about 1 per GH is typical I believe, so two backplanes would be 200-250. Some pools automatically adjust this from the server.

Also, a heatsink that's cool to the touch doesn't always mean much on these, as thermal contact between the chips and heatsink can be pretty crappy on stock units - I'd especially be wary of the one reading out 92%. With good cooling (might mean slight alterations to stock heatsink and/or chipsinks) and a good network you should easily see 99+% across the board.

Well that's sorta ridiculous. That's at least the third one I've heard about with loose screws inside.

Did you glance inside to make sure the fan was plugged in? If stuff shifted around a lot, or people didn't care during assembly, the fan could be unplugged. These guys turn themselves off if they don't detect a fan spinning after a few seconds.
Might be worth undoing a few screws to check, or just looking inside it with a flashlight through the fan.

If you need to pull the downed card for a once-over but don't want a lot of downtime, these guys will run without any problems with cards missing. Hopefully it's fairly obvious and fairly simple, like a fuse or bent pin.

Some power supplies in the 1000+ range aren't rated to output full power unless provided with 220V input. You might check on the input requirements for that PSU - not really a problem now you have the backplane supply.

What's your cooling setup? Blades don't like heat, and the stock heatsinks aren't always very effective. Might try smoothing out the mating surface on a heatsink, possibly adding some thermal paste to increase heat transfer, and see if that gets the speed up. Fans are also your friend.

Same here. I've had one running overclock with stock cooling for about 11 days with no issue.

Blade Kits should begin shipping on Wednesday. I've already responded to anyone that PM'd me in the last week or so showing interest. I'll have enough parts for about 40 kits to go out, and if they sell well enough I'll put together more.

Kits this round are improved from the last round - better regulator components, and hardware for three different overclock speeds so you can run yours at the highest speed *you* can keep stable, not the highest speed *I* could keep stable - every board is a little different and they don't all behave at top speeds. Kits do still include extra chip heatsinks, but I do also recommend smoothing out the backside of the stock heatsink and maybe using a bit of thermal paste to improve heat transfer. This can be a huge part of keeping a blade running stable and effiient even at stock speeds.


Also, whatever you do, CHECK YOUR WORK. Always make sure that all parts have been installed correctly, and never EVER power up a blade with improperly installed or missing components. That's when disasters can happen, and it's easy to avoid.

That's handy. I didn't realize they had a 10x minimum sale.

I actually had this issue with a hacked-up 500W server supply. The problem was, when the relays trip it requires a large burst current that drains the output capacitors inside the power supply. I tucked a couple 3300uF 16V caps into the 6-pin connectors, such that they would charge up when the power supply kicked on, and then supply burst current requirements when the miner fully fired up. This reduces the burst load on the power supply, which may be tripping overcurrent or undervolt protection (as the output cap voltage drops out before the regulator can compensate).

Find a couple good-sized 16+V capacitors at Radio Shack or something and wire them onto the 12V lines and it'll probably solve the problem.