Typo / wishful thinking.  Water cooled BM1384 based, 4 boards, 2TH/s, optimised for best efficiency at 0.3J/W ich I honestly think syscooling killed it. It was extra expense for water cooling vs air. Was I neat idea thats why i got 2 of them. One is still working, other is parts ATM. The first pumps were horrible and so were the wire harness. Again all syscooling not bitmain. It's sad if they would have picked a different cooling company I think C1 would have had much better start, and possibly a second one in it's line. What kind of water cooling company does not know do not dry test water pumps. My radiator whent out, had to purchase a EK 360XT, pump seems to dying any time soon, got a replacement aswell Phobya, but yes Syscooling has horrrible water cooling. I did not want to make any invesments but i did now that the syscooling system wouldnt last atleast now i have my running overclocked at 50c on a closed envirment, pulling 1,1thz., still waiting for winter might put the machine on the balconi it gets -20c here for 7 months will see how it pulls trough |
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It's kind of odd too considering all the good, and not cheap, choices that Spondoolies made on the SP20. I've seen the 2-screw diagonal heatsinks on small chips on a motherboard, but never the CPU. Maybe the chips weren't level enough on the board and it need a little "give" to avoid cracking the ASIC.
spoondolies have already stated that cracked chips won't reduce the perfomance, my chips were also cracked, perfomance have not been reduced. The thing as they "hang" vertically, the weight counts down onto one side, the heatsinks are really heavy for what they are. The sp20 is well build but it could have been better, small details were left out. as said previously 4 holes would have made the possibilitie for water cooling , blocks wont sit tight whit only 2 holes. It is possible to build some kind of holder but it will have to go around the entire board as you can't touch mostly any part of the board, everything is covered whit sensetive electronics. You can see that Jew enginering was aswell thinking on the economics a well build board whit crucial details left out, and those details were ment to cut down cost and maximise profit. |
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so bottom line it for us here what did you use that lowered your temps AS5 then ? or MG ?
I have have a large repasting project for my Scrypt Asics , a 10-15 degree reduction in temps would be great for me as well
I used AS5, i only put like a drop ans squished gently the heatsink back after screwing the 2 screws as it get loose, i watched on the side to see the paste to spread a bit.
Re: Repasting sp20 spoondolies?
Today at 04:16:51 PM
Reply with quote #32
My understanding is that Spondoolies didn't originally add a "glue bond" on the SP20, but did later in order to prevent the heatsink from rocking during shipment. I haven't heard that the glue bond was to actually improve thermal performance. It's too bad they didn't just originally use a 4-screw heatsink design. Yeapp, what i understand the glue have no thermal benefits and is only for shipment requirments to prevent damage on the chips. a 4 screw thermal sinks would have been good, i was even checking for watercooling possiblilities but whit 2 holes the water blocks wont hold tight, will need to do some modifications that might not even be worth the time and money. So i will just let the sp20 run untill it dies. |
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I chosed betcoin, i like the fact that you play whit bitcoins and not USD wich incase of value drop your bitcoins retain the same market value and i wont lose incase market drops.. EG: if i put 0.4bitcoins and the market value drops half price and if i gain 0.4 bitcoins in USD value i would have gain nothing So playing bitcoins is the best choice than getting them valued in other currency |
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is it possible to connect cables directly to the boards circuit ?
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1250~ Doing about same . voltages i have been swapping, from 0.66 up to 0.74. but doing the same it wont go for more. I only got a 1000w psu so that might be the isssue. i bought the sp20 for 250us included a rm1000 psu, and i am running on an old m1000 from cooler master wich has been more stable than the RM1000. I am looking onto server psu for upgrade , not sure if i should spend my bitcoins on one or save them and work for some real money . As said previous the SP20 is not inside the original case as it was to loud, i will take photos later on the night to show my uggly setup haha  |
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Did you put some Epoxy glue to the heatsink in order to make it stick back to the glued in portion and not be wobbly? I did not remove the copper plate from the heatsink. I only put AS5 on the cores and it did well the job for them sticking to it. AS5 is a non adhesive thermal compound, it does not have good adhesive properties. There are 2 diagonally opposite screws to tighten the heatsink, ideally there should be 4, in order to apply adequate pressure and close the thermal gap. if you are not using glue on the white spots where the heatsink was factory glued, your heatsink might not have good thermal contact with the chip. [/quote] My temps are fine on closed enviroment. is even better than before repaste. i was doing 80-85. Dropped to 68-69 after this, i have not glued anything, it just sits whit preasure. |
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Did you put some Epoxy glue to the heatsink in order to make it stick back to the glued in portion and not be wobbly? [/quote] I did not remove the copper plate from the heatsink. I only put AS5 on the cores and it did well the job for them sticking to it. |
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i decided for betcoin.ag . thanks  |
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any , reliable sites to play whit bitcoin? i used to play on pokerstars but they are not acccetping bitcoins yet  |
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we must have gone to different schools
Im still waiting for you to re-paste the other 7 chips on your SP20 and post the before and after results Mr Scientist
Not before you leap down that cliff and let us know the gravitation acceleration that was measured.  Some scientist you are...you should know that gravity is a constant ...want an apple to race with? Back to topic...what were your results from before and after with your 8x as conductive as MG grease...I am very curious to know your results as you actually went through all the trouble to remove 1 whole heatsink assembly...soooo what were the results from using your super duper AS5...was it 8x cooler? any numbers at all from your clearly extensive testing to back anything up or just another lame signature spam campaign hmmmm Im done ...thanks for the laugh  Glad that you found humor in this thread. Sigs are cool, and a fact on this group I do not think I compared MG thermal stuff with AS5. All I did was remove one heatsink, took a pic, replaced the grease with AS5, screwed it back in. The voltage on the said chip did not rise immediately to the intended level of 0.65V because the thermal gap did not close. Then I applied epoxy adhesive and put pressure of the heatsink until the epoxy cured. It closed the thermal gap and the chip worked fine at 0.65V. Just like it did before the heatsink was removed. What I can say is that most likely AS5 has equal thermal conductivity compared to the OEM grease. 8X thermal conductivity does not imply that temps will be reduced by 8X. (Final temps also depends on the temperature differential between chip and heatsink). I think it means that AS5 will conduct 8X the amount of heat than MG paste. i did not remove the thermal greese from the blates between the heatsinks and the copper, i left that, as i read on some treadh that someone had a big issue whit that. The greese looks fine ,its alot and it keeps dripping when its hot , the boards were full of greese but didnt seem to have any bad effect, i still cleaned it, i just repasted the chip between the copper plate but nothing more than that, i put just a drip as it said that the AS5 is very think and it was really consistent , i had to press abit to get some good spreading on the chips |
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For starters, you should NOT have used anything with SILVER near ASIC and I think that is half of the problem...I also noticed that you are not running it in the enclosure it came in You should only have a very small amount of grease on the top of the chip and nothing anywhere else...I see in the data you posted that the volts are very low on 3 of the chips Use another form of thermal compound without metal in it like MX-4. Keep in mind that due to the half-assed grease job there may be leftover grease in places it was never meant to be...at least on my miners it was everywhere..the sides of the heatsinks, between the chips, everywhere...very messy and the dust loves to stick to that grease too... I used MG chemicals non conductive grease as it calls for quite a bit of it if you remove the grease between the copper shim and the aluminum during the process. I re-did a couple of machines which were throttling at .62v prior to pasting and they run a lot better now...I have pics somewhere of the process will upload when I can..the original job was horrible Are these the same settings you had prior to re-pasting and you were getting around 1400GH/s before this? Also since you are undervolting there is no reason to have such a spread from .67 start to .69 max unless you are in a hot location..if that is the case just drop the max voltage to .68 In the field "restart miner if rate below" ... what do you have in that field, and why do you have 272w for the max watts on all 4 loops when the realistic value you should have for that voltage is more like 230w per loop  Why did you take the boards out of the original case BTW...there is a reason the airflow is over the boards in the way they are laid out..you may be cooling the top of the board ok but the back with all the power components needs cooling as well You have 22 hardware errors in half an hour...u definitely did something wrong in the process...did u get rid of the glue that was holding the heatsinks down? possibly damaging something in the process? ' I have 4 fans on it, one in front, 1 on back, one at top and one under, they are set parallel. i am on a closed envirement where sound is issue thats why i opted for taking it of the case i will post some pictures.. I have only put paste on the chips like you said, i was considering the AS5 own warning. I am running a 1000w cooler master m1000 that could be the issue as some one said here?. I bought my sp20 for 250us whit an rm1000 included, wich was more than a bargain. but now i am quite low to upgrade the PSU but im still considering getting a server psu maybe. So i guess that psu is main reason for such low voltages, it wont pull more than 700w from wall at any voltage i have tested, it's been very instable aswell on some volts. |
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2.6.14
Uptime:1830 | FPGA ver:100 | BIST in 137
-----BOARD-0-----
PSU[UNKNOWN]: 0->(111w/111w)[111 111 111] (->111w[111 111 111]) (lim=272) 0c 233GH cooling:0/0xff
-----BOARD-1-----
PSU[UNKNOWN]: 0->(79w/79w)[79 79 79] (->79w[79 79 79]) (lim=272) 0c 179GH cooling:0/0xff
-----BOARD-2-----
PSU[UNKNOWN]: 0->(173w/173w)[173 173 173] (->173w[173 173 173]) (lim=272) 0c 322GH cooling:0/0xff
-----BOARD-3-----
PSU[UNKNOWN]: 0->(125w/125w)[125 125 125] (->125w[125 125 125]) (lim=272) 0c 250GH cooling:0/0xff
LOOP[0] ON TO:0 (w:167)
0: DC2DC/1/:[vlt1:625 vlt2:629(DCl:794 Tl:629 Ul:688) 54W 87A 73c] ASIC:[110c (125c) 720hz(BL: 720) 91 (E:193) F:0 L:0]
1: DC2DC/1/:[vlt1:572 vlt2:576(DCl:794 Tl:576 Ul:688) 32W 56A 75c] ASIC:[ 85c (125c) 490hz(BL: 490) 76 (E:193) F:0 L:0]
LOOP[1] ON TO:0 (w:139)
2: DC2DC/1/:[vlt1:562 vlt2:565(DCl:794 Tl:565 Ul:688) 26W 47A 66c] ASIC:[ 85c (125c) 440hz(BL: 440) 58 (E:193) F:0 L:0]
3: DC2DC/1/:[vlt1:603 vlt2:608(DCl:794 Tl:608 Ul:688) 34W 57A 61c] ASIC:[ 85c (125c) 490hz(BL: 490) 81 (E:191) F:0 L:0]
LOOP[2] ON TO:0 (w:226)
4: DC2DC/1/:[vlt1:666 vlt2:672(DCl:794 Tl:672 Ul:688) 80W 119A 88c] ASIC:[120c (125c) 900hz(BL: 900) 116 (E:193) F:0 L:0]
5: DC2DC/1/:[vlt1:625 vlt2:629(DCl:794 Tl:629 Ul:688) 59W 94A 90c] ASIC:[115c (125c) 770hz(BL: 770) 110 (E:193) F:0 L:0]
LOOP[3] ON TO:0 (w:195)
6: DC2DC/1/:[vlt1:587 vlt2:592(DCl:794 Tl:592 Ul:688) 32W 55A 73c] ASIC:[100c (125c) 480hz(BL: 480) 94 (E:193) F:0 L:0]
7: DC2DC/1/:[vlt1:646 vlt2:650(DCl:794 Tl:650 Ul:688) 66W 102A 76c] ASIC:[ 85c (125c) 820hz(BL: 820) 101 (E:192) F:0 L:0]
[H:HW:986Gh (500),DC-W:387,L:0,A:8,MMtmp:0 TMP:(37/37)=>=>=>(52/52 , 58/58)]
Pushed 11 jobs , in HW queue 4 jobs (sw:2, hw:2)!
min:25 wins:727[this/last min:8/32] bist-fail:242, hw-err:20
leading-zeroes:41 idle promils[s/m]:0/0, rate:1118gh/s asic-count:256 (wins:2+6)
wall watts:535
Fan:90, conseq:200
AC2DC BAD: 0 0
R/NR: 1816/0
RTF asics: 0
FET: 0:9 1:9
0 restarted 0 reset 0 reset2 0 fake_wins
0 stuck_bist 0 low_power 0 stuck_pll 0 runtime_dsble
0 purge_queue 0 read_timeouts 0 dc2dc_i2c 0 read_tmout2 0 read_crptn
0 purge_queue3 0 bad_idle
0 err_murata
Adapter queues: rsp=1, req=24
Temp Front / Back T,B
37 °C / 53,58 °C
Fan Speed
Auto
Start Voltage
0.67 / 0.67 / 0.67 / 0.67
Max Voltage
0.69
Max Watts
272 / 272 / 272 / 272
i don't understand why it keeps pulling down to 1thz? |
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I have repasted the chips, but i am unsure if i should repaste around the block where there small circuits on the sides of the rockfox chip? there was some white paste as it had felloff from the original one, i did clean all that. I used Silver artic 5. Atm is runing at 35 c and 70c at backplate, it's not on orignal case, putteed 3 x120fans artic cooling silence, front back and one under in a computer case |
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Has anyone tried 2x psu of different brands and wattage?
Currently running on a RM1000 but i need more power. i got an offfer for an old antec 850watts for 10us
was thinking to run 2x pci-e of each and boost more ghz, is this safe to do ?
Make sure both power supplies have the same ground and good contacts for pci-e cables. I have no ground on my connections, i got a 25 amp at wall 230v . Edit: i just tried whit another 1000w coolermaster on it, but it just shut down and one side keeps running after like 5 mins |
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Has anyone tried 2x psu of different brands and wattage?
Currently running on a RM1000 but i need more power. i got an offfer for an old antec 850watts for 10us
was t hinking to run 2x pci-e of each and boost more ghz, is this safe to do ?
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i might be intereset if you decided to sell it as trash Depending on what your willing to pay I might take you up on it. It currently runs all 4 blades.... each with new thermal paste and as cleaned before new paste. 1 blade seems to work, 2 show 1/2 chips no x's just only half, other is a wild card. The miner is the blue boards, controller is a green board. I hate to sell too cheap incase I need the controller board or other parts for my other miner. But if you have a decent offer feel free to pm me. Maybe 1 or 2 boards just incase, to have spares for mine. but maybe in near future sometime. i wouldnt take it complete either as shipping cost will be alot . Mine is running fine it's no biggie whit it, just radiator that broke down, so waiting for a new one from EK coolstream , i have one old Thermaltake but just a 120 fan for it, not quite sure if i should mount it meanwhile , i don't think it can hold the temps cool enough . |
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i might be intereset if you decided to sell it as trash |
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i found the leakage, it seemed to be on several places, the Screw to fans perofred the fins and into the tubes, the casting is to close to the fins and the screws provided are to large. Bad production unit i guess nothing was checked, just done really fast and cheap, i am now down 1thz on my units , and trying to get it work as soon as possible ,:-\ good news that i could lower downmy sp20 noise so atleast i got that going on for me |
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i do recommend a better water cooler system, mine just startet to leak from the radiator, i dont know were from, but it dont seem to have a fix
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