If in doubt head here,, http://blip.fm/jilli it really bad tunes most have been selected for me by others, its so bad I love it.

has ever a thread been hijacked worse, not my bad , I only just sub'd

mobo's are multi layed, if you can spot one you should not be here on this forum but elsewhere doing shit with robots or rockets

For Ccy gorakmail1@yahoo.com.au for the others, hack yahoo I did

Thankyou KNK, I think its under control once we get over a 5 pm limit,

cheers and props

M

wait mate, don't bomb that box yet

I can buy it now, but wait, u are not fail yet

I will buy it, pm me

Go to bed mate, your wrong on many levels as I explained in PM

QandA is on, gonna listen to them muppets now

If your fixing mobo and gfx your doing it wrong, they are and have been a replaceable component of computers for last 10yrs or more, unless you work for ATi or one of them brands your doing it wrong,

You can repair a some parts of a psu but NOT mobo's and gfx the boards are so multi layed not even do they fix, they swap some chips which as a service repair person you have no access to.  

If your gonna claim you solder onto or repair a mobo in the last 20yrs  

Just look at the side of a mobo or gfx, hue hue ,,

really dude,

Just cause im bored, 1 more time for the dummies.

1/8 and shows as dead , Does spell blown when the unit is dead, leaking which is not mentioned would show its an old cap or has been exposed to high heat.

Leaking caps are not blown in a workable device, this unit we speak of is dead, leaking caps give you a clue to what's going on, thus you would examine the device more intrinsically looking at darks points on other components and measuring the input of pwr if no dark components visible just as part of the problem solving process.
Electronics run off pwr that comes from AC then converts to DC. the 1st step in any problem solving with electronics is defining your array, your array is the total sum of things that can go wrong based on err then finding a halfway point eg if this tests ok and this doesn't my prob is on that side of things, the 1st place to array electronics is the pwr input - you confirm your psu and if external you look at what protects the device from a fail or fluctuating psu then so on and so forth, if you see blown caps you can of course take them out of line and test further on with the right test bench. In new devices you do assume the cap is faulty cause they are made in millions and tested 1 in a mill, examing the pcb also gives further clues but assumption is generally the best cost/time effective way.

damn said too much but when nubs start using mF and shit regarding 220/250v gear in regards to electronics I gotta say something,

Sorry Gab I belittled you or put you off electronics

cheers

<--grabs a beer

They all mean the same thing in this instance, like I said read then re read, then google research before you reply, just as a start to your problem solving skills which seems you want. Google may make you smart but it wont make you intelligent.

And im not attacking your intelligence, just please think out, then about your replying to posts that need fixing. Being the 1st to state the obvious, yada yada yada DERP

Im guessing you do not and have not worked in a professional manner with electronics, Im guessing you work in retail with a passion for electronics that reads the magazines and does projects from the jaycar. I have no problem with that unless you inflict yourself onto a thread that was how ever many posts ago helping out a person with a problem which had I not pm that person would just look at this thread as a bunch of young ego minded tards with small hands.

Mind dumping is great in the right arena its how ppl learn from their peers, this person posted a question and your dumping like you have eaten nothing but laxatives for last 3 days, I have read all your other posts since you joined and I troll forums never post until it was needed, u jumped in with mind dump crap which had nothing to do with the problem but just a realease so maybe you thought you where - well what eva, I can guess your age and experience, go quiet for awhile,, this aint a gamming thread.

like I said,,

1/8 as mentioned states that it is a visibly blown cap, and that was somebody that is asking questions, you should go back to problem solving minescape or something.

And just for shits and giggles what instrument would you test a bad cap on that comes back with a result of "BAD"

why would you bother testing a visibly blown cap, not even would you waste your time in the path of problem solving

your boring now

You amaze me and I have been on safari and seen the stars through a telescope.

FYI u cannot test a visibly blown cap eg the 1/8 popping out bit,

If the person had a friend who knows something about it, Do you think they would be posting here.

To state the obvious only points out the dumbest person in the room and gives them great insight into your IQ.

Its moments like this you should seek shelter in a good book and please don't read an electronics book.

Grab a pillow mate, you have been weighed measured and found wanting thus branded "Junior Rocket Scientist"

Soz for my harshness but really
 

Read mate just read, pleeease
"Quote"
Does anyone know where I can get a bitmain S! Antiminer repaired? Seems one of the caps or something popped out approx 1/8 inch and now shows as dead. Or is it just a waste and for parts now? 1st one to go bad. Cry
"Quote"

Even the 1/8 inch implies it is not 220/250v but 110v eg not AU/NZ.. Miners are running off DC even the big ass ones run off a AC to DC psu just like a computer or any other electronic equipment. there is no way on earth these ASICs could handle AC.

No point in mind dumping on people with pointless info in ones head, im sorry mate but really READ then RE read if it aint sync'ing.

Guesses the above quote doesn't read but can only type,

DC has nothing to do with as per described in above quote that is AC stuff quoted, besides that its popped and has been off pwr for long enough for any other component to discharge, relax the 1st yr electronic tutorial, maybe if your talking about ballasts for discharge lamps and or tube TV's it applies, these units are fed DC and clearly the problem is not mentioned as psu but as the antminer.

For Ccynthia

Never mind the mind dump of the mF stuff,  

Also don't buy one of those heated solder suckers, just get a 10 dollar plastic one all up you can get away with a solder sucker Iron and solder for 40 bucks , to learn the soldering iron temp, practice melting some solder above some cardboard u want to be able to push wire on to iron at a slow pace and have it ball up on end of iron then wipe it off on a damp cloth, Just melt the new solder and it will melt the old.

1st year stuff, heat the pins not the board when replacing, pre-emptive for Gab

PM me and I can prob help you with a pic or 2, then your either on your way to an RA or a soldering Iron.  

If it is infact a cap problem the top of the cap will be partially or fully open, it has a cross on top so it can release its guts when it gets a hit from generally external pwr spike on a new device- I say this without seeing an antminer and or could just be a faulty cap made in millions in some province in china.
If you can get clear access to the under side of where cap is located (undo some screws) get a soldering iron some solder and a solder sucker, Heat up old solder with some new solder (wire) the suck it all out with solder sucker.
Then google the part number and order online.

Caps pop for many reason internal and external, best not to draw conclusions about a companies workmanship unless you actually know what your talking about, caps resistors etc if hand/wave soldered do not always land perfectly straight and aligned. If an electronic component does make contact and works it is of course passed, electronics is not based on esthetics. Mass produced flat screen tv mobo gfx etc are made by robots and have less tolerance for components being off centre mainly due to the small amount of space they are jammed into and why they look so perfect when you open them up, I doubt antminer has robots, probably about 20 ppl all payed with half a bowl of rice and a bottle of water per day,, Jus jokin. Also caps are sometimes separated/pushed off centre when the board/s are put together to mitigate heat or allow other components to land nearby.

If cap pops again and your running off good clean pwr eg a decent pwr board not on same circuit as an aircon or heater then problem is most likely internal.

And have you contacted the supplier for an RA, you could be down for a while tho waiting or as said above they might just send you that pcb to screw in.