Have a board stuck at 50mh/s per core. Any ideas as to why?
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Lets figure out how to get the X5000 working with MPBM
TheSeven wrote this when I asked him about incorporating. It's a little above my tech level:
"Not by default, but you might be able to hack the x6500 module up sufficiently to make it work with the x5000. Does the x5000 use the same ping assignment as x6500 FPGA0? If yes, you should only need to remove the second FPGA discovery and instantiation."
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Hey guys. I finally put together an installation package of sorts for Windows: X6500 Easy Package for WindowsDownloadThis should make it simple and easy take an X6500 and go from 0 to Bitcoin in no time (on Windows). It includes a driver installation program for the libusb driver, MPBM with compiled EXE, and all the current mining firmware. I tested it out on a clean VM install of Windows 7 64-bit, Windows 7 32-bit, and Windows XP 32-bit. If that's too convenient for you, the individual pieces can also be downloaded: Let me know if there are any problems. Though I did take a lot of time testing it, this is still fresh off the presses Very nice! Will test it out asap and post up any issues.
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Gift cards are the number one fraud category on eBay. Why do you think that is?
I'd like to know how many are non-delivery fraud, and how many of those gift cards are actually redeemable on the vendor website. It's a combination of both of those plus buyers claiming non-receipt for emailed codes.
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You should never rely on an emailed code. If you don't visibly see a code on a plastic gift card there's a good chance it's illegitimate.
I don't think that's entirely true, if you order GC from Amazon's website, there's "email" option which only send code via email. Also, my credit card company offers emailed code when I redeem my reward points. In both those cases you are ordering directly from the gift code provider. Dealing with an emailed code via a third party is extremely risky. Gift cards are the number one fraud category on eBay. Why do you think that is?
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Amazon's gift code algorithm isn't exactly rocket science. IIRC the code generators work for 4-8 months then Amazon catches up and shuts them down. IIRC Amazon throws a pretty wide net out to try and recover funds from those who used illegitimate codes. You should never rely on an emailed code. If you don't visibly see a code on a plastic gift card there's a good chance it's illegitimate. This is what a legitimate seller looks like: I'd love to see some proof/evidence that any of these guys are selling legitimate codes.
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Subscribing to watch the shitstorm that ensues when this whole thing blows up in everyone's face. There are no legitimate Amazon codes at 10-30% off. Sorry.
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Pretty obvious anyone selling Amazon codes at 10-20% off is up to shenanigans. If you can get paid $1000usd on $1000 off commissions why on earth would you accept 80 cents on the dollar?
80 cents on the dollar from an untraceable payment source I might add (so no chargeback issues when the codes start coming up invalid and/or banned). Takes Amazon a while to catch up but it always does. Mark my words.
Sorry but the truth hurts.
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Shipping at cost. No surcharge.
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If you have a legitimate company anywhere in Oregon please PM me. Easy money (btc) for you.
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The integrated GPU will screw up the cards, I would just disable it.
Why would you post this? What's the point of buying an APU then? Pure ignorance. Have an Asus F1A75-I with 3870 and an Asus Ares on the PCI-E slot. APU hashes just fine in the background (Beavercreek) as long as you set initial video out to PCI-E (not auto).
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There is no "best". Considering MPBM has support for everything there is no reason they can't all play nicely together. At this point I think it all depends on what's available.
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That little fan is pretty noisy...
Need moar speed!!
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Shouldn't the BFL threads be moved to this section as well?
Not to be PITA but I still have to go to the main hardware section to see all the FPGA threads.
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I'm sure the less-than-20 BFLs that are actually out in the wild are making a HUGE difference.
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WTF? $580 for400 mhs? That's nuts!
You're late to the party, a troll, and annoying. Go ask your mom if dinner is ready.
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1650W max @ 110V, otherwise I can't place it anywhere.
1650 is too much on a standard household circuit. Unless you have properly installed (and new wiring) with NOTHING else on the circuit it's going to trip multiple times per day. 1500 is definitely the max. 1200-1250 would be the perfect amount and leave enough of a cushion in case you accidentally place a fan or tv on the same circuit. Technically, a 15 amp circuit supports a max of 1800 watts - but that is the "burst" rating, and must be reduced (derated) to 80% of that for continuous loads. Therefore, 1440 watts continuous maximum. I concur. That's why 1200-1250 is ideal. Leaves room for less-than-optimum wiring and or sub-standard circuits and/or something accidentally getting plugged in on the circuit (most people don't know exactly what outlet goes to which circuit -- unless you built or wired your own house).
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