Homie, you're thinking about it in the entirely wrong way. You don't mine that one crypto that can make you cash now, it's a losing game. Even if you've got a Petahash of hashrates for BTC, to increase your hashrate with the difficulty, just to keep earning the same amount... It's guaranteed to lose all your money. Use whatever power you've got, but look into the different coins. How long have they been out, what's the network hashrate like? Does their announce thread have a lot of hits in a short period of time, or not much hits or replies but has been out 3 months? Do the devs stay active in threads where the coin is being talked about? Do any of them have a history in cryptos, and have they made previous Cryptos? How did they do, good and bad? Have they learned from their mistakes? Is there reports of fraudulent behaviour?
Base the coins you choose to mine on things like those examples. Pick a coin that looks like it's been looked over, and has a lot of support and promise in its future. People need to be rich in order to successfully mine bitcoins, and to efficiently profit, not talking about $0.70/day. The people that got rich off of bitcoin were the ones that thought they wouldn't mind sparing a bit of hashrate for this useless software hashing thing for fake "coins", or they heard about it, and when reading online, realized that they could buy like a few thousand for a few dollars and thought they were going to just piss their money away. Turns out it finally paid off for the people that just held it for fun, or invested a few bucks in it. It's unfortunate though, that a lot of people seemed to sell those coins that they bought for $0.00004 a piece for $10 each when it reached that, thinking they were the smartest people alive to have got out when they did. But then when it reached around $500, or even that one time it had hit $1200, well, people were just kicking themselves for it.

Personally, I'm always mining for different algos, whatever looks interesting. Some die before I can get on the exchange, however that just indicates that they were created by the devs for a cheap and easy way to get quick money. Charge people for

Are you an employee of the company? Because I wanted to ask one some questions.

You're right. I'm waiting for the same fucking thing.  Company's not running at a very good track record this soon into the start. Also haven't responded to my email I sent several days ago.

Hah...  I'm not blaming anything on the British! Well, not tonight, anyways (I'm 3/4 Irish, so I got lots of stuff to pick on them for)...  The Imperial System made the best out of the situation at the time...  And the UK started integrating metric in the 1960's, whereas I'm in Canada, and we didn't really start working on it until the mid-1970's.  Also the Brits in North America in the 1700-1800's were starting to use metric over here.  'murricans didn't like it much when the British were trying to teach them these new, better units that they learned from the French.  I'm blaming the US for shooting it down every time people push for metrication there.  When there's only three countries that exclusively use the wonky measurement system that someone developed back around the Norman Conquest, and it's still virtually unchanged a thousand years later...  The only real thing the 'murricans changed was the size of a pint.  They can't hang with Canadians, Irish or British like that...  They needed to lower the strength of the beer and take a 20 ounce pint and make their American pint only 16 ounces.

The biggest nation of drug users, and the main measurement system for drugs is also the metric system...  So they can manage to score a couple grams in a sack, and can figure that much out...  All they have to do is take another step and they're halfway to adopting it.  

I do gotta say though...  If they're really the "best country in the world", then how the hell is Liberia going through metrication before they do?

P.S. Thank you for this post, I really enjoy your mining threads to get a chance to see new equipment

lol...  Thank you for making my evening, Captain America!  37.0C means the unit is running at 37.0 degrees celcius.  It's the temperature of the device at the current moment, provided conveniently in the metric temperature scale currently used by every single country in the world with the exception of the USA, the American Samoas, the US Virgin Islands (excluding Puerto Rico, where they also use celcius, and Guam, where the locals use celcius yet they also have to include Fahrenheit everywhere due to the large 'merican military/civilian presence there), along with Myanmar and Liberia.  Should note that Liberia has been in the process of changing everything over to the metric system for I think about 3 years now, and Myanmar announced beginning the process to switch last year, which means soon the USA will be the only one that still refuses to adopt the most accurate (and easiest to learn) system for measuring anything in the world. In celcius (C), water boils at 100C and freezes at 0C.  

It's what all the American doctors, pharmacists, astronauts, high detail or precision manufacturers, biologists, chemist, and even drug dealers use.  They can't break down a pack to be 28 perfectly even packages on a scale measuring ounces. Also I'd sound like a cunt asking someone if they've got 1/28th of an ounce of weed I can grab.  28 grams in an ounce. You can get gram scales that go to several decimals, even.  You can't break an ounce down into individual gram-sized decimals...  Can you imagine telling someone you need 0.035274 ounces of anything?  Also... pharmaceuticals are all in milligrams...  Beyond even possible to think about measuring that in ounces or pounds.  I always wondered why America won't let go of the old, confusing British method of measurement, especially during and after they fought a war against each other.


P.S. No hard feelings...  Just your post gave me a laugh.  I'm assuming you understand what the metric system is, and may or may not use it yourself, but probably thought the number was indicative to something else.  Some friends were watching hockey on TV a few months back, I arrived and I don't watch hockey.  Then, I noticed that a period is almost done and asked one of them how many periods there were, I thought maybe four.  To quote Georges St-Pierre, they were "not impressed".

Their house edge is caused by their rules and subtle things that are harder to notice...  The percentage point edge doesn't cause 20 losses in a row, that's just statistical probability.  In games of chance that rely on shuffling, rolling dice, etc., statistical probability basically realizes that everything will happen at some point.  You will get 20 losses in a row, you will get 20 wins in a row at some point, as long as you stay.  It's like pulling a blackjack followed by another.  It happens, it's statistically not often, but it does and will happen.  If you want to not get large loss-runs, then to decrease your chances, don't play as long.  That's how the house edge takes people.  If they have a 1% average, and you start with $100, their rules and games will result in taking $1 from that $100 every hour, on average.  Long sittings just increase your chances of the chance circumstances, both good and bad, of happening.  If you're wanting to make money, minimizing the chances of those occurrences is best. 

Where the edge comes from, in, say...  A BTC dice game is how they set the high/low and the bets.  Some of them display high as 5250 to 9999 and the low at 4750 down to 1.  High/low as a name gives the impression it's 50/50, but actually that would be a 0.95 chance of winning, not an even chance.  Just-dice cleverly uses decimals to distract people, >50.4999, <49.5000.  It's very distracting and misleading, subconsciously gives you the idea that it's one or the other, but you bet high, you get 50.4999 to 99.9999, whereas they get 0.0001 to 50.4998.  The button says <49.5000 but that's only for you if you click on low.  They get the edge from the extra 4 decimals' worth of number combinations that could be there.  I think that's actually a much higher edge on just dice than 1%.  Casinos, also, they use the 0 and 00 sections on Roulette that give them more than a 2% edge on people betting on the more straightforward one or the other bets.

Hey, I hope I can give you some advice, as I'm someone who's spent a significant amount of time gambling and working on the best ways to turn profit over the years.  First off, there's never a guaranteed method to win every time, unless you've found a way to cheat.  Even cheating isn't a guaranteed win if you find a way to do it.  For example, card counting in blackjack.  You don't actually know when a card is coming up, but you add and subtract based on the cards that have been drawn out of the shoe, and you're waiting for when the numbers go further in one direction, indicating that there is a significantly greater chance of 10's drawn than normal, which increases your odds of pulling a 20 on the flop and also increases the chance that the house will bust, due to the rules outlining hitting (anything under 17) and staying (anything 17 and up).

So let's get into what you're wanting to do, make money.  Firstly, if you're going with the 2x multiplier, the odds are as close to in your favour as you can get.  The odds against you are just over 1.05x, or you could say your odds at winning are 0.95x.  All gambling games win because of that.  These odds basically mean that if you sat there and kept playing, the house will win 100 hands for your 95.  You'll but in a few bitcoin, go up, go down, then up, but not as far up, then down more, and it'll continue over time.  However, the first thing you have to do is set rules.  I know having a losing streak for 50 hands in a row seems almost impossible, even though we all know it can happen, but the one truth that I can tell you is that the more hands you play, the higher your chances are of having that happen.  So you really should set a limit on how many hands you will play.  Either have a definitive number or have a maximum number, and stick with it.  It's tempting if you're down to try and win the money back, but it's much better to cash out and come back tomorrow.  You'll be clear thinking and have greater chances of winning the next day with a fresh start.  I recommend having a hand limit no higher than 100.  You can always do 100 hands twice in a day.

Next, you're already on the right track...  Looking for a betting strategy.  Mathematics, son!  Mathematics is the key to closing the gap on the house's edge, and sometimes being able to actually tip them in your favour.  Now the Martingale system is the first one people usually come up with.  You won't want to use a bot with it if you're experimenting, it WILL absolutely get you to the point where your money's all gone.  Too fast at betting, and not able to make the decision to walk away.  The problem with the Martingale system is exponential growth.  The amount you could lose compared to how much you can win actually slights the house's edge even more.  Let's say you set a rule that you'll walk away if you lose 6 hands in a row, which carries a 2.1256% chance of losing your 63 chips you've got at the bankroll to support 6 losing hands.  You have pretty good odds of winning that 1 chip, at 97.8744%.  You double up every hand to win that one unit back, so if you're on 5 losses, and on your last roll, if you're trying to win $5 you're risking $315.  If you sit down and play, you will absolutely reach this level at some point.  If you play 200 hands, you're almost guaranteed to reach this point before the 200th hand.  The only time you should use the Martingale system is when you have a very large bankroll, and you're looking to make a little bit of pocket change.  e.g., If you want $50 to go out with friends on the weekend, or want to put gas in the car but not actually be out the money, head to the casino with $1500 to $2000 in your pocket, sit down at Blackjack, Baccarat or War (roulette's red/black and odd/even is actually much worse chances due to the 0 and 00 spot) and set your starting unit at $10, and set your walk away point at $50 or less.  It's almost impossible to lose when aiming at winning between 1 and 3 times, but I usually go up to 5 with it.  I've lost maybe around $600 or $700 once, and about $300 or $400 another time like this, but I've won $50 exponentially more times.

The D'alembert Method actually works much better with slightly tweaked rules, and increases your odds, speeds up the rate at which you earn money while slowing down the speed at which you can lose money, with the only downside really being that it takes more concentration to maintain your focus and rules.  In order to try and win $50 in with $5 units, you'll probably be either busted or have won before you reach 30 hands, but the D'alembert Method is slower, and could run you the whole 100 and not have you there yet.  This is a system I used for a long time, and you can actually play for hours with it, as long as you watch for one risk I'll get into in a moment.  The basics of the D'alembert Method is that you start with one unit, and if you lose, you increase by one unit on the next hand, lose again, increase the bet one more unit.  Then, if you win the next hand, decrease one unit.  Lose again, increase one, then the next one, you win, so let's decrease it one more unit.  Now take a look at the math of the example I just gave; -$5, -$10, +$15, -$10, +$15.  You just lost 3 hands out of 5, but you are up $5.  Also, let's say you had the same 63 units bankroll as a 6-loss Martingale bank, so $315.  If you lost 6 in a row, you're down $105 instead of $315.  Still $210 bankroll left to play with, so your next hand is $35 and you win, you're down to $70 behind.  If you use this method, you will find you get to bets in the $20 to $30 range easily, but stick to your rules, and you work the house edge right back.  The edge against you in Blackjack is the second smallest in the casino (as long as you can follow the blackjack strategy and not allow human emotion to get you to stay when strategy says hit, or vice versa).  The best odds game removes that from the equation, though, which is betting on Banker in Baccarat (though payout is 0.95:1).  Lastly, let me explain what I hinted to earlier, the biggest flaw or risk in this method...  Losing streaks, where you're winning 1 of 5 hands, or say lose 6 in a row, win one, then lose another 5. Or possibly losing 3 of 5, so you're making profits still, but your bets are getting high.  I've been up a couple hundred profit, but been upward of $150 hands before I thought this through.  The higher your bet, the greater the chance of breaking your bank from a smaller losing streak.  So set rules in this area too.  Some rules I've used well (and this is where the concentration really kicks in for this method) are having interim win points set, like reset goals or even taking a break to go for a walk or a drink then and returning after (don't stay at any game for too long, always make sure to sit, grab what you can, then leave for at least a bit).  For example, if I'm getting $100 or $200 today, I'm going to do it in $50 chunks.  It's harder for casino edges to get their hooks in with short-terms.  I do my bets like above, keeping count of what my next hand's bet will be on the win or loss, and also keeping track of my +/- balance in my head.  The moment I reach +50, it's break time.  Even still, while working to $50, certain times, it's going to be a back and forth game, and your bets will be getting higher and higher, so determine a rule for that for the day, like once the bet becomes $20+, the moment you reach +2 units from your last highest balance, you reset to the initial $5 bet.  Risk of high bets destroying your bankroll averted.

The last one that I find you can have a lot of fun with is the Fibonacci Method, using those magical numbers that can be found in everything, everywhere you go... Be it in sunflowers or how rabbits breed (true).  The Fibonacci sequence starts at 0, then increases.  You get the next number in the sequence by adding the last two together.  Here's what the beginning of the infinite sequence looks like.  0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34, 55, 89, .... Now, you can develop your own methods for betting, but once again, make rules that keep you in check and don't aim to stay sitting too long.  This method is similar to the Martingale, but your bankroll can handle a larger loss run, if you make it through a loss run you have the ability to actually gain more than one unit out of it, and you can get to your win goal quicker due to the structure resulting in a more balanced risk to gain with possible loss and profits.  Not to mention, it's math, so you'll be developing and working out the logical portion of your brain while doing it!  With these numbers, you can set anywhere in the series as your starting point, and you can choose between betting those numbers as currency, like $8, $13, or you could use them as units for your bets, like 5 $5 chips, then 8 $5 chips, etc.  This is not like the D'alembert modified method I've listed above, however, you will, like Martingale, bust if you try and keep going and going.  I personally don't go over 50 hands max with this method, and usually make more than I ever came close to with Martingale, due to the versatility of the magic numbers.  You stage the bets like my version of the D'alembert, but instead of only winning 1 unit of the last series, regardless of how long of a streak you're losing, you always win back the money from the previous two bets.  Due to this fact, an extremely efficient way to bet is to move up in the sequence one number for each loss, and each win, go back two.  If you win only 1 of every 3, you will break even, but you'll win more often than that in the long run, so I usually just follow through with 2 back on a win until I'm back at my starting bet again, then keep going.  As for when the numbers get higher, after a loss on 34, I modify the rules to minimize a high loss percentage streak from letting my bets get outside of my bank by adding a rule to start from the beginning when and if I win 2 of 3 hands, either 2 in a row or W/L/W, as both of them will result in a significant profit.  You could also have a forward 1 on loss, back 1 on win bet, and implement a point where you will do the two steps back or 2 in 3 win reset to prevent the chances of it getting too high..  This method works best on games of chance where you don't control any of the game, such as betting Banker on Baccarat, Casino War, High-Low or Sic-bo, craps, and roulette (I enjoy roulette with this method, otherwise hate the game).  In games like roulette, or the freebitco.in over/under game, this method has one more way of betting that can be more profitable in a shorter timeframe, too (not without increased risk).  With the over/under game, there's the option to increase the payout by decreasing the numbers that're over/under...  If you set the payout up to 3:1, you can increase the bet to the next number with every loss, and 1 win will allow you to reset to the starting number. I recommend starting with at least 5, so that way on a hot streat you actually win a more significant amount.


Phew.  That was a lot of explaining.  Please experiment, but I'm sure that this explanation will help you understand some more elaborate and more efficient strategies.  Keep in mind that you need to set rules and guidelines every time you're about to log in or go somewhere to gamble, choosing and modifying the right ones based on your experience with them will increase your success in the games, whereas breaking your self-imposed rules will put you at risk for losing much more than you planned.  You are never on a roll, so never stay past your limit thinking you'll just go for a bit more.  I've done this many times, and sometimes ended up with good results, most often though, went up a bit, almost lost everything, then made it back to less than if I walked at my limit. Though I mentioned above I'd lost larger amounts twice, though only a portion of the bank I had with me.  Never put your whole bank up or dip back into your pocket to add to the bankroll you're playing with.  I like to go into a casino with $2,000 ideally, but never less than $1,000.  I never cash it all into chips, this is my overall bankroll.  I separate it into at least 4 parts, and then if you lose a game's bankroll, you have much more than that left, so you can make it back.  If you bankrupt that too, it's probably good to take the rest of the week off, but you've got multiple chances to make any losses back with the separate banks.  I haven't ever lost my second of 4 or 5 bankrolls though.  Remember, the D'alembert will work best when you want to play for longer times, or multiple times throughout the day, and the Fibonacci is when you want to get in and out.




--I'm 30 years old and have been a gambler since I was 19.  It took years to develop and work out the best ways to increase profitability, and when I gamble, I don't gamble for fun, just for profit.  Try out my methods, and let me know how you're doing with them.  If you've got any questions, let me know and I'll give you the best answers I can.  Hope you break the bank on freebitco.in !


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Gigadice...  WHY are we still waiting for refunds and you're not updating us on why they're not coming through??  Please hurry this process up and keep us informed as to what is happening. If you're trying to sell the site, it'll be a little bit harder to sell if the potential clients think you've stolen bitcoin from previous stockholders.

Same as well happened to me.  I had 20 shares, looks like the guy just stole the bitcoins, instead of the buyback @ 150% trading value like stated in his stock info. 
Also cryptostocks support is fucking useless on help for it, so I'll be liquidating and removing all my bitcoin from the site with absolutely no security or user protection.

Hopefully the GDICE owner does the right thing and gives our money back.

It would make me quite happy to get some free feathercoin!  I've been mining it for about 3 weeks now, non-stop, but don't have the greatest hashrate.  I do really like how stable the value of it is.  It appears to be slowly, but steadily rising.  I'm looking forward to seeing what it gets to in a year's time!


6wpCJRZMqr9jWumAEPiqibs8nDxSy2nDiX

Just checking to make sure you know it's pretty much impossible to withdraw money from Mt Gox.  Might want to consider that before using it.

Mine stopped working too.  I didn't update, just I was having problems with the website, hit refresh, then it assumed I was mining from multiple locations and blocked me for an hour.  After that, I click start, and nothing happens.

I would save it for a rainy day.  It'd be nice to have a bitcoin wallet balance that's at least 1.  Mine has been a decimal for so long!

Are you sure about Devcoin?  It's been around long, and suffered a massive price drop...  I had a feeling that the community that was once behind it might have lost some faith in it, and that resulted in the reason why it's worth next to nothing now....

I doubt it.  Maybe in like 2100.

You can use http://www.coinwarz.com to see up-to-date mining profitability charts that compare all the actively traded cryptocurrencies.  There's always a lot of fluctuation in which is the top cryptocurrency every day, and it's caused by the constant flip-flopping of miners.  Personally, I'd recommend picking a few currencies that you think could do well, and go with them.  If you have the hash power, Litecoins are very stable in their profitability.

I kind of agree...  They need to have a strong development team behind them, and they need to have the reliable support of the community.  So far, the only ones I think actually have both of those is Litecoins and Feathercoins.