I now wish I would have opted for a refund, the only reason I did not is because I paid for my order in ETH and it has lost half its value since the time i paid for these things.  This has obviously been put on the backburner in favor of the BCU 1525's. No real updates since 9/24 other than a few pics and the mention that they are being assembled and tested.  No new performance numbers or any information posted here or website.  Fanboys dismissing people that aren't on Discord 24/7 following every comment.  I have an order number in the double digits and only live about an hour and a half away from their site.  Hypothetically I should be one of the first to receive these if and when i ever do I'll let everyone know.  I honestly don't think this is a scam or anything, just believe it has been severely mishandled.  Seems like they are committed to ship in October but that's what I thought about September. 

When I was looking, I wasn't able to find a 240v Kill-A-Watt style monitor with U.S. plugs.   Not to say that aren't out there, but I couldn't find one. 
Only could find clamp style monitors. 

I have an eyedro electricity monitor, a little expensive but , it has a web interface where you can monitor live power draw.
I have my rig on a separate disconnect panel so you just clamp the lead over a hot wire in the panel  going to the outlet in my case. Not hard
to connect but not as easy as a Kill-A-Watt.

Yeah definitely read about split-phase power, ohm's law, and watt's law it will answer your questions. 
I'll give you an example of my setup though, I have 4 Avalon 741's and a few other low current draw devices into a PDU then into a 240v outlet on
a 30 amp breaker.  According to my electricity monitor I'm drawing about 5000 watts , 5000w/240v (Watt's Law)= 20.83 amps.  It's generally accepted
you shouldn't have a constant load on a circuit higher than 80% of its rating, which would be 24 amps in my case.  I'm not going to add any more miners
to this circuit because that would put me over my 80% mark. 

As far as current, you really don't have 200 amps "coming into" your house. That's just what you're panel might be max rated for. Current is a measure of the "flow" of electricity.  You only draw as much current as you demand from your use. 

Read this forum and read about things people post.  You'll learn a lot.  I've been lurking here for a long time , but just joined recently. I figured I'd give you a hand
since I have a little experience in this field. 

I would suggest reading some material about watt's law and ohm's law on the internet so you can calculate a rough
idea of how much current you will draw at what voltages.  Long story short your current draw for a device at 240v
will be less than your current draw at 120v, which is why everyone usually suggests 240v 30 amp outlets.  For example,
Watts Law says power (Watts) divided by voltage = current.  So 1200w/120v = 10 amps , that same power draw at
240 volts will be cut in half,  1200w/240v= 5 amps.  This will allow you add more than on device per breaker and not overload
the circuit.  If you're in the U.S. (I assume since 120v power) you're electricity already comes in your house at 240v and is
broken down by leg to get 120 at your outlets.  Air conditioning and dryer circuits wired for 240v will use both legs coming in,
as well as your miner circuit if you should choose to have one installed.