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Thank you for your help, I have learned a lot and you have pointed me in the directions I need to learn more.
I am going to try and replace the power inductors and see if that gets the board working again.
PA2891.261HL Is the part number, but its a pain in the ass to try and find these not in shipments of 4000+.
Do you have any idea what specialty shops I could find 16 of them without having to commit to a full shipment -_-
I found the Pulse specs online, maybe I can find a comparable product somewhere else.
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I assume the coils are the Pulse units. I will check those and see.
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Here are a copy of hi-res images, the first one you can see the damage ( well the clean up ) at the bottom, the second image you can see the two capacitors I took out @ C556. Right now the power supply still comes on, just no power goes the board. I checked with a voltage meter, and the board is not asking for power for whatever reason. The power supply is still showing the yellow light. I can't embed because the images are too large. http://abecx.net/bitcoin/DSC_0224.jpghttp://abecx.net/bitcoin/DSC_0225.jpg |
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Ok, still the same issue, its showing a bad ground ( I assume ). The beagle one is plugged up to the same power supply and it works. I've swapped out both power supplies, they both work on the good board. I also swapped the power converter device ( whatever that thing is the plugs up to the power supply ), and same thing.
I am trying to find anymore obvious issues on the device.
I have a feeling the previous owner had really shitty power, and blew a few circuit breakers. Any other tips to track down the issue?
I'm pretty sure the device was still under warranty, but I've opened it up and troubleshoot, I doublt Cointerra would work with me on it.
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1. Get your meter, measure to see if the capacitor is in shorts(it normaly wouldnt but its in a circuit and i cant tell).
2. Just remove it and try to power it on, one capacitor wont make the diffence.
if the removed/burnt capacitor conducts current it is most probably the one causing the faultt
I took that capacitor off because I didnt realize that it had to be off the board to check capacitance. 23.61uF was the result. I will try and power up the board with out it. I thought that removing it would be enough as well, thanks for reenforcing that. For what its worth, the bad cap was still conducting current across. |
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I would like an update on the $12,062.30 order I placed in mid December 2013. I have requested multiple refunds, you informed me to send you my wallet and you would refund in BTC. You then told me my device was being shipped soon and recanted that option. This was over 2 months ago.
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I had the same problem and after troubleshooting and looking over the board, I found a blown capacitor ( I think its a capacitor at least ). I have a ton of older bit coin hardware, and some upgrade kits for block erupter blades, but I obviously need to find the right capacitance. Any ideas where I can get clarification?   |
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without a doubt, but I wouldnt be able to run them in our lab if they werent in a case ;p
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Sorry to necro the thread, but I wanted to indicate that I was able to accomplish this goal using the above case ( CS4802BK ). I used some zip ties and pulled everything out of the case, they fit without much issue. Its loud, and hot, dont do this unless you're putting it in a data center or rack.  |
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Typically what happens is a VRM resistor isn't installed properly, and overvolts a VRM. This causes the ASICs to fail, which since they also draw from the 3.3V line, shorts the 3.3V to ground (or, well, 0.7 to 0.8V) and sometimes explodes the 3.3V buck regulator (IC102). Probably if you can identify which VRM isn't working properly (one somewhat reliable way is to see which one's outputs are shorted, or fire it up and measure for improper output voltages) and pull those ASICs. That might get the rest of the board working. I have a few here that I got from others (some overclocked, some not) where VRMs had failed and roasted a bank of ASICs, and some of them are working again on 7 banks.
^^^ This is what i think is probably the culprit. I started trying to track down which VRM it was but i just dont have the time nor proper workspace to do this ( i live in a cramped LA apartment with my gf ). Hopefully you can get it fixed, if not, at least you get a overclock kit. |
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oh neat, thanks SUCKER
jk, i'll get it shipped out tomorrow and send you the tracking.
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I havent heard back from kaz yet and its been 12 hours. I'll bring the device with me to work tomorrow, and if he doesnt pay by tomorrow, i'll hit you up.
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I honestly have no interest in doing escrow ( because I've never done it ). I'm throwing in one of the gekkoscience OC kits with the device which is about worth the 5 TBC by itself.
First person willing to throw caution to the wind and live like a bad ass gets it. USA only.
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yeah, its included in US via USPS
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Check your 3.3V either at the test header by the ethernet controller, or measure across C286 (which is an output cap for the 3.3V regulator, and should measure 3.3V at all times). Some folks that messed up resistors on the VRMs (usually missing or bad connection, haven't heard about a bridge yet) have reported that it fried that regulator.
I checked the power at the debug and C286, I am getting .8 volts at both locations, on my other devices they are all getting 3.3V at those locations. I checked the power coming in, its 12.8v, C284 is 12.8v, C285 and C286 are both 0.8v. R120 is doing .6v but on my other units its doing 2.5v Where do you think I should try and go from here. Sorry it took so long, I just got back from vacation. |
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The BE 100 chips I think are the exact same chips they put in those USB Block Erupters, you could probably swap those out, but they are rated at the same speed more or less.
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It doesn't work like that, it would be like putting an AMD chip in an Intel socket, drastic physical and software differences that you'd have to overcome.
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