bump

Well it is hard to say, there is really no fantastic documentation on what the LEDs mean, I have found that they tell the state of the hash chips, the on board power and other various things. So we know something is wrong , as to what going to be hard to tell.


Here would be my approach.
First thing does it get detected? I am going to guess not. Next thing would be to check the voltage regulators, I would check to see if the DC-DC converters are making voltage for all the chips, if so there is a 3.3v and a 1.8v regulator, if those are good then check to see if the 12 MHZ clock is working for the chips if so check all the logic buffers sending the signals out, if all the hash chips have the clock then check to see if you see any signal on the spi clock out to the chips if those are good, make sure there good after the 3.3 to 1.8v level shifters.

while there are some more steps to check I am going to guess this may be out of reach, while I could say I can fix that for you, it may not be fixable or might not be worth sending somewhere to fix and get it back.

I have been looking for broken boards to work on and try to repair, I have had some success with it.

While most everyone knows how I like to mess with stuff, I decided the next step would be to outfit a hash board with digital pots so I could adjust the voltage and tinker more, I had a board extra to tinker with so I had some small boards fabed to hold them and hooked one up and it did work , somehow I let a ground wire get loose on the voltage going to the hash board from the raspi, well when this happened all I can guess is a lot of ground current went through the pot back to the raspi and caused the dc-dc to fry and then I guess it decided to let the mosfets short out and start a fire. Needless to say it is a hard fire to put out when you have it on a 100A supply.

I asked in another forum if anyone had and dead , broken hash boards that they might want to part with , I am sure we could come up with something of a deal. I'd like to get this to work maybe to determine the most efficient voltage to run at,

I know there marked FB but they look like 0 ohm resistors, I really haven't seen a ferrite bead marked like that not to say there isn't though. reverse polarity can be really brutal as you can tell, I would bypass them with a bridge of wire to see if they even work anymore, a lot of the time regulators don't survive a reverse polarity hookup. Don't feel to bad I set a A2 has board on fire the other day messing round with it, wasnt due to reverse polarity though.

Hello everyone I was looking to see if anyone had any old boards they had sitting around and wanted to possibly sell them. I am looking for boards of any kind, if you have some and can tell me a bit about them (color, number of chips, what it did/does). I have been able to repair a few that I have gotten and would like to get better at working on them. If you have any or want to ask anything else you can PM me, I am located in the USA so that may play a factor as well.
Thanks
 

Is this what were talking about?
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/New-arrival-Zeus-Scrypt-Miner-All-Solution-Litecoin-Miner-300M-digging-Litecoin-with-power-supply-send/227686_2048732975.html

Of course the description on the page says newest A2 480M miner the link looks to be describe something different.
If so looking at it I find it strange to see what looks like DC-DC converter inductors all over the boards, I thought they were DC-DC less.

Yea emdje is right there is no code for the A2 stuff in the source tree.

Yea the stock PSUs are just barely enough to make them work, I had to upgrade them to go much beyond stock

I agree my A2 hardware has been pretty strong, I have modified them a lot and redone about everything with them. Your right out of the box I couldn't get near 110 a few mods and depending on power I can get one to get close to 118 pretty decently

I agree, replace the fan probably be good to go.

I don't know a lot about the mini but to me it looked nearly like they just took two blades and put them together and used the same controller on top with the 6 connections just using 2, at least in photos anyway.

Ah i guess I was really being silly to think that was a possibility in the first place, I guess I'll just have to wait for someone to leak it out. Oh well back to monkeying with my A2s.

Well I got a reply back on just buying ASICs , they said min order was 100k and no datasheets or info otherwise unless you order so I guess that dream is gone.

I would say so, is this a normal ATX powersupply?  if so unhook everything and put a jumper in the atx plug from the green to any black, should turn on supply if it keeps running you might have another issue, it is cuts off then you know it is power supply, make sure the power supply fan runs , sometimes if the fan quits for it they will shut off as well.

No I think it is for complete miners, but they listed the asic price and left us all guessing, I was thinking it was for ASICs and I was going to design my own hardware but I'd guess that has already been done. After we add a case , heatsinks PCB costs and shipping I'd say 2.5 to 3k in costs would be a good guess.I just like building things.

Ha, I don't know why but I thought we were buying ASICs, I had just asked for info in the email, I was looking at getting like 200, I guess if they had though 200 complete miners been right on it.

I guess I was just wondering if I bought some ASICs how would I make them work, I can build boards and design hardware, I am sure the A4 miners will be a good to go item but , at least me when I am thinking about designing something from the ground up having a little more info.

I didnt get a reply either to me email... go figure

I sent an email but this is really an odd way to sell something, maybe I missed it but was there a data sheet out? use the same software? just interface it and go with the old cgminer. At $12 a chip if I didn't have to buy 10k of them would be cool, just when I started working on a way to software control the voltage on the A2 boards.

I have no direct experience with this but looking at the dates on the earlier threads I would say it wont work on a Pi 2 or 3, most of that stuff was built for the earlier units since most use the SPI bus the base address are different and software has to be recompiled to work with newer Pis, could be wrong but my guess anyway.

While you may have an answer when I did this kind of thing years ago the main thing it to make sure the grounds of all the supplies are connected, While I took  a much more advanced approach , like soldering connectors to the GPUs so I could get rid of the molex stuff I had a normal ATX supply for the PC and external supplies for the GPUs , you will need to be able to power cycle them and they need to come on at the same time if not the GPUs a split second earlier. The only time I had a problem was with a PCIe riser cable that I built my self that killed the motherboard but I had built the connector backwards. I have a link to some photos that I took back then, now if I was going to do this I would use the DPS-1200FB power supplies , pretty cheap for 100A I use them on my A2 miners, of course I have heavily modified them as well. Like that has been mentioned , most externals don't have a 5v rail, on my risers I just peeled the 12v off from the motherboard and let it do the rest, connect the grounds should be OK, as with most things do at your own risk.

http://photos.mag-productions.com/Hobbies/Altcoin/n-pFBSGx/