I'll give it a go.

We have pallets of books that are all mainly new, but they do have a sticker on the front or back covers.  These books are returns from an online vendor, but we pull out the damaged or destroyed books.

We will try to not include any duplicate titles, but it may happen depending on how the box fills up.
You are buying a small moving box (12x12x16) filled neatly with books, Typically this is about 30 to 50 books depending on the mix of hardcover/paperback and size, shipped either via UPS or media mail.  

Makes a great bookshelf starter for a cabin, cottage, vacation home.  Give as gifts or donate to your local book sale.

The price of .1 BTC mainly is covering the shipping of these as you can imagine.  payment address 1CZq8cdnKqSaZ9XSxjh4ozxPXozTLmwRzf -- PM me your address and transaction id

Pictures below are samples of the bins that we will pull books from.  

I've shipped 4 of them across the country for about 25 or 28 bucks.  less if it's just within the same region.  Just using UPS ground - from an account - NOT at the ups store.

do you want them undervolted already?

Brand New means Brand New - means new sealed unopened or possibly if they were opened, they were simply removed from the box for photographing purposes and never used, never plugged in and include all cabling and standard accessories including the stupid crap that manufacturers put in the box that none of us care about. 

Like New would be lightly used but still complete

After that you'd be down to very good and stating the missing accessories. 

I don't have a dog in this fight - just putting out there what Brand New means.

RMA refurb replacements would not be brand new... they would be manufacturer refurbished. 

I'd be happy to cover freight for them to be put on a pallet, shipped here, and then shipped out into a few groups.  of say 3 or 5. 

Any idea what they would cost to ship to NY?

I've not ordered from them in several months, but it was never a big deal when i did. the packages just got shipped and showed up.

Nope did partial payment for it.  - probably should have used escrow - but let's see if he ships it out this week.

I ordered a neptune from harles9 last week, paid for it, sent a shipping label.  He didn't ship it out.  He also locked the sales thread of it https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=831961 .  So I brought it up here in another thread of his.

I'd be curious to know if its the real CE certified or the china export CE certified.  Isn't there also some FCC certification that they are supposed to have to sell in the usa like every other server PSU that I've ever seen.

so since I offered to buy it... and you didn't reply... can we all assume you don't wnat to sell it?

I'll .8 and i'll supply a shipping label

ever plan on shipping out that neptune I bought a week ago?

Sweet I'll have to give this a try.  I got so frustrated with the pi and usb miners - i just setup a computer to leave on to run them.  Talk about the opposite of what we should be doing.

The standard residential circuit is 15Amp at 120v.  20Amp @ 120v are used normally when you know there will be higher drawing things.  Then it goes to 30amp 240v, 40, 50amp, 60amp etc.  You can have whatever you want setup.  Most kitchens with an electric stove have a 50amp circuit for it.

In the commercial space, the typical service is a 3phase 208v service.  So 1 leg is 120v and 2 combined is 208v. 

Saying that the USA "has unusually bad circuits" is just ignorant.  There are also plenty of standards in place in the USA that generally prevents single  plug machines from drawing more than 1500watts on a standard outlet. 

The Pacific V3 doesn't need 2500watts through one plug, it  has two power supplies... Plus since it's rack mountable, it's a setup to be placed in a rack with some 208v PDU's.

In addition to that - you should also use the same form factor of the hash boards in the X3.  Thus allowing existing customers to simply upgrade the machines they have and save on all that shipping.  As compensation for screwing over those who thought you were going to deliver in May 2014, perhaps upgrading each x3 box to say 10 or 20 TH with the new chips would be a reasonable expectation.

By the way - when you build the new machines - the design of the X3 over all was good.  Please use some better screws that don't get stripped when you remove them.  The heat sinks for the DC chips should not be super glued on - instead use a screw mount or retention clip.  Having to pry those suckers off is a pain in the butt.

Also - please include an on/off switch wired in, so that we don't just pull the plug to turn it off.

This just appears to be 4 asic tube miners put together in one box with 2 psu.  Nothing really is achieved other than a nicer form factor.
Remember the asicminer tube was .77 BTC for 1.  So this is four of them or 3.08 BTC + the PSU and the case.  Obviously based on the wiring setup of this, it's not like they created circuit boards or other stuff to handle the mess of PCI-e wires.

So i've racked up that this is worth 3.08 BTC + PSU. Which look oddly the same as the ones in the antminer s4 and the prospero x3 - ie a sunshine (apluspower) ap188.  Plus a metal 3u box. 

The nice form factor is cool and all, but by no means is worth the increase in price.  I doubt the efficiancy is what is claimed vs an asicminer tube - as both produce the same 215gh per board for 280 mhz clock.

I would hardly say that the typical 15Amp 120v circuit in the USA is a bad circuit.  With the exception of bitcoin miners, I've found few items that trip a typical circuit. 

Items that typically draw a lot are often placed on their own circuit in new construction.  This of course can be a problem sometimes for those with older wired houses that weren't designed to have all the modern draw appliances.

If you know you need a 2500w draw, then you know you need either 2 circuits or 1 220v circuit.....

I was able to get them off by applying rubbing alcohol where i could see the white blubber, twisting as much as I could, and then finally I'd put a pair of pliers on the heat sink and kind of pry it off. 

On one of the boards admittedly one of those R22 things broke off the board as well.  Since I figured that they are more concerned with getting chips back, repairing an R22 if the needed to isn't a big deal.

So Perhaps some other manufacturers will take this into consideration - if you need a large heat sink to cover 8 chips - GLUE is a bad idea (backed up by yellow scotch tape) (Off topic: why is so much tape out of china yellow...).  Instead the heatsink should have been screwed or pressure clamped on.  In an ideal world it would have been 1 heatsink per board, not 4.  (1 per chip, 1 per side for the power things)

I ended up scraping the glue and crap off.  MS suggested 99% ISO alcohol to help remove the gunk.  I didn't have any handy, so I used a knife and some 70% iso.  Afterwards I sanded the bottom of it with some fine grain sand paper (hope thats ok) to smooth out the surface.

After everything was cleaned up I gave it a final wipe with alcohol and sprayed the small bits of dust off with canned air.

Next one I do I'll try to take a few more pictures with some better lighting. 

All in all it's about an hour project by the time you pull the machine from service, figure out the bad card, remove the screws, etc.