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Author Topic: GekkoScience Compac BM1384 Stickminer Official Support Thread  (Read 265274 times)
zOU
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March 22, 2016, 10:48:21 AM
 #1741

I know....

but as I said, I don't trust myself to do it perfectly.... and this has to be perfect, there's no room for mistake.

- I don't have spare heatsink (which is a mistake, I could have ordered a couple more)
- If I F*** up the last bits, then I have to re-do everything as all 3 sticks are side by side, and with that I increase the chance of making another mistake.
- drilling/tapering aluminium is tricky
- hole are to be drilled at 0.5mm precise point.... I don't have anything to measure at 0.5mm..... and to be acurate I would need a decent press drill
- hole/thread have to be perfectly vertical for good pressure on the stick without damaging the chip.


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March 24, 2016, 10:33:46 PM
 #1742



Is that a big deal?  Should I bridge it down?

(and I have no idea why imgur isn't doing anything other than a link - noob)
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March 24, 2016, 10:37:16 PM
 #1743

I check for that, but I guess one slipped through. Yeah, make sure it's tied in. Shouldn't be a problem; I overspec'd the output caps pretty good for ripple and stability but if it's there it might as well work right?

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March 24, 2016, 11:22:22 PM
 #1744

I check for that, but I guess one slipped through. Yeah, make sure it's tied in. Shouldn't be a problem; I overspec'd the output caps pretty good for ripple and stability but if it's there it might as well work right?

Will across to its neighbor do, or do I have to go down to the board?  its a large gap, I don't have hot air, and to heat that much mass i'd need a big tip at a moderate/high temp no?  Its a Weller adjustable pen, I'd give you the model and tip info but I can't lay hands on it now, but i have 0.25mm tips up to honkers at least 1.5 or 2mm across if not larger, lots of mass to them.  Temp pot (analog) goes from like 550/600 to 850/900 I believe.  Probably would need a new tip, oxidized to hell and back it would be by now.

I might could melt the down side and push the cap down closer to the board on the up side.  Its already touching (if not soldered) to its neighbor, and continuity is good (strong constant beep, 0 on the meter), resistance shows the same between middle and left (both on their pads) as compared to middle to right (one up one down) at .9 ohm (on 200 ohm scale).

If down to the pad, flood it with enough solder to fill the entire gap?  Or try the push down mentioned earlier?

Ty.

Drew
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March 25, 2016, 06:39:13 AM
 #1745



Is that a big deal?  Should I bridge it down?

(and I have no idea why imgur isn't doing anything other than a link - noob)

Because you do not have enough posts Smiley

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March 25, 2016, 12:30:52 PM
 #1746

Quote
Quote
(and I have no idea why imgur isn't doing anything other than a link - noob)

Because you do not have enough posts Smiley

Thanks for the explanation!
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March 25, 2016, 02:51:26 PM
 #1747

I have a couple questions regarding my 3 compacs.

I have them running at 300mhz and the pot at 9o'clock without any hw errors. But my killawatt is measuring each at about 10.5watts or 32watt total. That sounds high right? Was expecting 7watt range.

Also measured the heatsink passively cooled and it is reading 90ish deg celsius, after 2 minutes. This is quite hot. anyone tried mounting a small 50mm or 60mm on each sticks heatsink, and how low do the temps go?

Tks.
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March 25, 2016, 03:07:46 PM
 #1748

if i remember right if your running them at 300 passive cooled with no fan thats not a good idee

stuff degrades after heat starts to kick in

your best bet would to be buy a usb powered fan and have it blowing on the sticks

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March 25, 2016, 03:16:03 PM
 #1749

Yes, pretty much any time you go over 150-200MHz you should provide airflow to keep 'em cool.

What happens to your error rate when you turn the voltage down and keep it at 300MHz? Additionally, when chips get hot they actually draw more current for the same work, so keeping it running cooler will increase the per-unit efficiency.

Additionally, if that's one of the batch 2 Compacs, I can't guarantee overclockability because they're pulled chips. I test everything to stable at 640mV 200MHz (same as the Batch 1 sticks with new ASICs), and if it takes more than 660mV to level out it gets rejected and I replace the ASIC. But since "overclock" is by definition not a standard state and not really controllable, and a waste of my time to test on every stick, I don't guarantee overclock performance on anything. Hopefully it's not that far out of spec and you just have the voltage turned higher than it needs to be.

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March 28, 2016, 04:44:36 PM
 #1750

Hi sidehack, I've got a dead U3 would the chips be any good for a USB stick? I'd like one but obviously can't get them anymore. Would it be able to be run from a standard hub (non powered) through an Antrouter?

Thanks.

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March 28, 2016, 04:57:15 PM
 #1751

No. The U3 chips are worse than what I'm currently working with and it's not worth revamping a design for 4 sticks. They'd end up costing twice as much for half the hashrate.

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March 28, 2016, 05:54:38 PM
 #1752

No problem. Worth a go. Thanks for getting back to me Smiley

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sidehack
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March 28, 2016, 06:09:45 PM
 #1753

Yep.

Also, there's still a lot of demand for Compacs and I won't have anything better for a while so I'm working with some resellers to put together another batch. No direct sales from me (sorry, but it is fairly time-consuming) but the regular websites should have stock. Nothing's for sure yet, but it's pretty likely.

Also, CrazyGuy should have stock available soon; this week's priority will be finishing up the tail end of Batch 2 manufacture, most of which are his. I'm pretty sure he's got Antrouter setup to handle Compacs as well, probably worth looking at his Group Buys thread.

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March 28, 2016, 07:42:34 PM
 #1754

Super! Thanks sidehack Smiley

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March 28, 2016, 08:34:28 PM
 #1755

Hi sidehack, I've got a dead U3 would the chips be any good for a USB stick? I'd like one but obviously can't get them anymore. Would it be able to be run from a standard hub (non powered) through an Antrouter?

Thanks.

The U3 uses the BM1382 chip (same as S3)

The compac stick uses BM1384(same as S5)

Worth mentioning as I had the same idea when 2 of my U3 died :p

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March 28, 2016, 08:41:09 PM
 #1756

Hi sidehack, I've got a dead U3 would the chips be any good for a USB stick? I'd like one but obviously can't get them anymore. Would it be able to be run from a standard hub (non powered) through an Antrouter?

Thanks.

The U3 uses the BM1382 chip (same as S3)

The compac stick uses BM1384(same as S5)

Worth mentioning as I had the same idea when 2 of my U3 died :p

Great minds  Wink 

ok maybe not so great compared so some guys on here  Cheesy

Well the U3 is apart and the thermal paste is all crunchy so going to replace it and give it another try.

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March 28, 2016, 10:50:57 PM
 #1757

Hi sidehack, I've got a dead U3 would the chips be any good for a USB stick? I'd like one but obviously can't get them anymore. Would it be able to be run from a standard hub (non powered) through an Antrouter?

Thanks.

The U3 uses the BM1382 chip (same as S3)

The compac stick uses BM1384(same as S5)

Worth mentioning as I had the same idea when 2 of my U3 died :p
It actually depends; some U3s run the BM1384 chips, but those are the ones that run at 0.8w/gh, the ones with slightly lower power consumption and look like a big mac with holes in it.

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sidehack
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March 28, 2016, 10:59:55 PM
 #1758

I've never seen one.

Also, 0.8 is a terrible efficiency for BM1384 device, even considering a fan and buck losses. I'd expect more like 0.65 at the worse, and that's assuming they're running the chips at 400MHz - which would make about a 90GH U3.

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March 28, 2016, 11:59:13 PM
 #1759

It actually depends; some U3s run the BM1384 chips, but those are the ones that run at 0.8w/gh, the ones with slightly lower power consumption and look like a big mac with holes in it.

Source?
it looks like you are describing the batch 1? the BM1382s would run at the 0.8W/GH and 60/68GH/s though..
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March 29, 2016, 03:28:49 PM
 #1760

Well my U3 has 1382 chips in it as its now apart to see if I can see anything wrong. Ill re-do the thermal goo and fire it up again on the off chance the old crusty paste had anything to do with it. If not then its going for spares or repairs on ebay.

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