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Author Topic: [Guide] Dogie's Comprehensive Bitmain Antminer S7 Setup [HD]  (Read 76272 times)
williamjclark
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December 06, 2015, 09:56:38 AM
 #81


The cabinets I looked at were all too expensive.  Went as high as $8,000 US.  I made one myself out of an old file cabinet.  I'm sure the expensive cabinet would have been better, but mine did the job well enough.  The S7's noise is about the same as a vacuum running.  The cabinet made it more like a dishwasher.

https://i.imgur.com/rvYjQN0.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/dhYNXja.jpg

Thank you! That looks interesting...

The white sheet on the bottom is a piece of cement board.  Later though I bought a small metal wire rack and put it inside.  The S7 sits on the lower shelf, and the two power supplies are on the shelf above it.

For the intake vent, I cut a piece from a furnace filter.

I actually got the cabinet at a used office furniture store.  When I told the guy what I was using it for (and didn't need the drawers), he gave me a broken one for free.  Smiley

The most expensive part of the cabinet were the 3 fans.

https://i.imgur.com/G01qkEZ.jpg

Thank you so much! This looks like the kind of thing that I might need to set up. Please could you let me know what fans you use and how you installed them/connected them to the power supply.

Thanks, Will

The fans are from StarTech.com.  They are high RPM fans, and VERY quiet.  (Most server rack fans I found were loud.)

They just plug right into a regular outlet.

http://www.startech.com/Server-Management/Racks/12cm-AC-Fan-Kit-for-Server-Rack-Cabinet~ACFANKIT12

I bought the safety grills on eBay.  This one is the correct size (120mm/12cm):
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/171857640784

https://i.imgur.com/Wyhq3sX.jpg


Awesome! One last question, and thank you ever so much for the help!

Why do you have two power supplies?

Thanks, Will
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December 06, 2015, 05:38:38 PM
 #82

Awesome, thanks. I'm in the UK so I won't need two and I think I'm going to start mining mid-january whilst keeping my return in bitcoins so that if the price doubles (as you say, it's difficult to predict), I'll will have made the initial investment back.
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December 17, 2015, 07:20:30 AM
Last edit: December 17, 2015, 08:02:59 AM by Epinnoia
 #83

``Rated Current   108A``

Why is it 108A and not 10.8A?  I don't understand that at all.  I see that bitmain also doesn't use the decimal:



And it's true about the subsidy payout halving from 25 to 12.5 BTC per block (though I am not sure of the exact date).  It does this every 4 years by design.  That will be an instant 50% reduction in mining profits from that moment forward.  I am not sure how many of the mining estimate calculator sites take this into consideration as of yet.  One thing they do NOT include, but which is becoming more and more important as time goes on, is...the fees collected from all the transactions.  Those fees don't disappear into the void.  They don't go to the person who invented the system either.  They go, instead, to the miners who solve the block (in addition to the subsidy).  They can't be calculated ahead of time, because they depend entirely on how much in fees was collected in that block.


You can infer from the slope changes in this curve that the payout halves.  As time goes on, a larger and larger portion of the overall payout to miners will be the fees collected rather than the subsidy which keeps halving every 4 years. 




My first miner -> ATI 4550 (7.2 Mh/sec): 
https://www.facebook.com/groups/cryptospeculators/
dogie (OP)
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December 17, 2015, 08:00:24 AM
 #84

``Rated Current   108A``

Why is it 108A and not 10.8A?  I don't understand that at all.  I see that bitmain also doesn't use the decimal:

Because its rating at 12V, not 120V. I don't know what mains system you're going to use, but I know you'll be using ~12V.

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December 17, 2015, 08:14:01 AM
Last edit: December 17, 2015, 08:40:31 AM by Epinnoia
 #85

``Rated Current   108A``

Why is it 108A and not 10.8A?  I don't understand that at all.  I see that bitmain also doesn't use the decimal:

Because its rating at 12V, not 120V. I don't know what mains system you're going to use, but I know you'll be using ~12V.

Okay.  I think I understand now.  On breaker boxes, do the breakers read for 220V or 110V?  I thought residentials get 220V, and it gets split/halved at the box or something.  I should have tried learning more about this stuff a long time ago.  I am assuming that 15A breaker is for 110V?  Is that correct?  It's normal USA wiring, as I understand it.  Built new in 2006.  A quick look at the breaker box shows 10s, 15s, 20s, 30s, and even a 40A.  And it looks like the 30s and 40 take up a double-slot in the breaker box.  So those are maybe 220V?

I have an S7 coming within the next 7 hours FedEx.  So I am trying to learn what I can as quickly as possible.  I could kick the fools who wired this house -- as the two back rooms are both on the same 15A breaker -- which is where the router comes in.  And the master BR is on a 20A for itself.  SMH  


My first miner -> ATI 4550 (7.2 Mh/sec): 
https://www.facebook.com/groups/cryptospeculators/
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December 17, 2015, 08:36:13 AM
 #86

Here is a drawing I posted in another forum.  Maybe it will help you a bit.  I deleted most of the conversation but left a little of it remaining below:

A 240V outlet is simply connected to BOTH poles that have 120V each.

I have only shown double pole circuits for the large consumption appliances for the home, such as, Air Conditioning, dryer and stove top/oven.  I have not included a refrigerator, separate freezer [if you have one like myself], multiple televisions, lights, stereos, gaming stations, computers, exhaust and intake fans for getting out the heat from rigs, etc.  We have very easily maxed out this 200 amp breaker panel with what I have shown in the drawing without coming anywhere near the 32,000 watts of rigs mentioned in another post earlier.  Plus, we don't have the other things necessary in the house like I mentioned.

A 200 amp main breaker is rated at what it says, "200 amps."  Meaning, if we ever have more than 200 amps on either phase (pole), the main breaker will trip... period!!!


I'm not really worried about the main breaker.  Just the small one headed into the bedroom where the router was installed -- it's rated 15A and shared for both back bedrooms (other than the master BR which has its own 20A for itself).  We're using the 3rd bedroom as an office.  I think I may be running an extension cord from the hallway.  Do you think 16 AWG rated extension cord would be sufficient for a single S7?  

My first miner -> ATI 4550 (7.2 Mh/sec): 
https://www.facebook.com/groups/cryptospeculators/
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December 17, 2015, 08:37:50 AM
 #87

Here is a drawing I posted in another forum.  Maybe it will help you a bit.  I deleted most of the conversation but left a little of it remaining below:

A 240V outlet is simply connected to BOTH poles that have 120V each.

I have only shown double pole circuits for the large consumption appliances for the home, such as, Air Conditioning, dryer and stove top/oven.  I have not included a refrigerator, separate freezer [if you have one like myself], multiple televisions, lights, stereos, gaming stations, computers, exhaust and intake fans for getting out the heat from rigs, etc.  We have very easily maxed out this 200 amp breaker panel with what I have shown in the drawing without coming anywhere near the 32,000 watts of rigs mentioned in another post earlier.  Plus, we don't have the other things necessary in the house like I mentioned.

A 200 amp main breaker is rated at what it says, "200 amps."  Meaning, if we ever have more than 200 amps on either phase (pole), the main breaker will trip... period!!!


I'm not really worried about the main breaker.  Just the small one headed into the bedroom where the router was installed.  I think I may be running an extension cord from the hallway.  Do you think 16 AWG cord would be sufficient for a single S7?  

Yes, it's sufficient for your router but only one S7.  It will get pretty warm but not hot with one router and one S7 on that 16 AWG extension cord.  I'm assuming your are using a PSU(s) that can also plug into 120V?

Watch this video about breaker panels:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMbDPyYAfXw

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December 17, 2015, 08:50:53 AM
 #88

Yes, it's sufficient for your router but only one S7.  It will get pretty warm but not hot with one router and one S7 on that 16 AWG extension cord.  I'm assuming your are using a PSU(s) that can also plug into 120V?

Okay.  I think I will be headed out and grabbing a 12 AWG rated extension cord or better.  'pretty warm' disturbs me.  I don't intend to run the router off of it.  It's fine where it is.  I'm just not able to feed power to the S7 from the same bedroom where the router is.  The S1s weren't a problem because they were wireless.  But since the S7 is a direct-line into the router, I sort of need to keep it close to the router with a long extension cord, or a bit further away from the router with a long CAT5 ethernet cable.  I definitely don't want it in the hallway making all that noise.  LOL  At least in the office (3rd BR) I can close the door on it. 

I have an old wireless router from Verizon.  If I can figure out how to turn it into a bridge, I may be able to stick the thing into the garage.  =]

My first miner -> ATI 4550 (7.2 Mh/sec): 
https://www.facebook.com/groups/cryptospeculators/
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December 17, 2015, 08:52:52 AM
 #89

Yes, it's sufficient for your router but only one S7.  It will get pretty warm but not hot with one router and one S7 on that 16 AWG extension cord.  I'm assuming your are using a PSU(s) that can also plug into 120V?

Okay.  I think I will be headed out and grabbing a 12 AWG rated extension cord or better.  'pretty warm' disturbs me.  I don't intend to run the router off of it.  It's fine where it is.  I'm just not able to feed power to the S7 from the same bedroom where the router is.  The S1s weren't a problem because they were wireless.  But since the S7 is a direct-line into the router, I sort of need to keep it close to the router with a long extension cord, or a bit further away from the router with a long CAT5 ethernet cable.

14 AWG extension cord would certainly be fine but 12 AWG even better.  However, 12AWG can be expensive compared to 14 AWG.  14 AWG is certainly much better than the 16 AWG on that 15 amp outlet.

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December 19, 2015, 02:14:22 AM
 #90

Yes, it's sufficient for your router but only one S7.  It will get pretty warm but not hot with one router and one S7 on that 16 AWG extension cord.  I'm assuming your are using a PSU(s) that can also plug into 120V?

Okay.  I think I will be headed out and grabbing a 12 AWG rated extension cord or better.  'pretty warm' disturbs me.  I don't intend to run the router off of it.  It's fine where it is.  I'm just not able to feed power to the S7 from the same bedroom where the router is.  The S1s weren't a problem because they were wireless.  But since the S7 is a direct-line into the router, I sort of need to keep it close to the router with a long extension cord, or a bit further away from the router with a long CAT5 ethernet cable.  I definitely don't want it in the hallway making all that noise.  LOL  At least in the office (3rd BR) I can close the door on it. 

I have an old wireless router from Verizon.  If I can figure out how to turn it into a bridge, I may be able to stick the thing into the garage.  =]

A year ago when I got my third S3 I realized that I would max out my circuit.  So I got a 12 guage extension cord for the new power supply and plugged it into an outlet in a separate room.  (I verified that it was a separate circuit by flipping breakers in the main panel.)  This looked like an acceptable temporary fix, but then I discovered that the outlet where the extension cable was plugged in was getting warm.  A little detective work showed that many other outlets in the same room on the new circuit were also getting warm.  This was a little scary. 

I hired an electrician and had new dedicated point to point circuits run from my main panel to new outlets in my mining room.  This made me sleep better.  While he was installing these new circuits I had him replace the older outlets on the other circuits that had been getting warm.  It turns out that these had been connected by pushing wire ends into the outlets to save time, rather than taking the time to strip wires and wrap the connections.  Over the years, these connections had become corroded, creating resistance and thus heat.

It is not safe to use older electrical wiring lighting purposes and the occasional intermittent load without checking it out thoroughly.  Older wiring may be perfectly legal and perfectly safe for typical use, but doing bitcoin mining is like using a bunch of hair dryers 24/7.

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December 19, 2015, 02:29:47 AM
Last edit: December 19, 2015, 02:42:20 AM by LoneRangir
 #91

I can get one, maybe two, miners, on one circuit, depending on the load.  What are other "home miners" doing to get 5 or 6 miners in the same room?  I understand "the professionals" are wired to do this, but what are "home miners" doing?

I'm in the US with 120V home wiring.
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December 19, 2015, 03:10:48 AM
 #92

I can get one, maybe two, miners, on one circuit, depending on the load.  What are other "home miners" doing to get 5 or 6 miners in the same room?  I understand "the professionals" are wired to do this, but what are "home miners" doing?

I'm in the US with 120V home wiring.

Wiring up 240V circuits.

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December 19, 2015, 03:12:23 AM
 #93



D'oh!
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December 26, 2015, 03:55:11 PM
 #94

Hello help advice  Huh I burned one of three circuit boards with chips ,I can run two boards with chips?
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December 26, 2015, 06:29:30 PM
 #95

Hello help advice  Huh I burned one of three circuit boards with chips ,I can run two boards with chips?

yeah, but will have to take the bad board out and someone suggested to tape the entrance and exit to the empty space, so cooling fan air flow will go only through other two. good luck.
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December 26, 2015, 06:34:36 PM
 #96

Hello help advice  Huh I burned one of three circuit boards with chips ,I can run two boards with chips?

yeah, but will have to take the bad board out and someone suggested to tape the entrance and exit to the empty space, so cooling fan air flow will go only through other two. good luck.

Also if your within 90 day's of purchase make sure to make a ticket for help.   If within warranty chances are send it in and they send one out (assuming warranty is in-tact).

If after 90 day's I would email them and ask for cost.  The S7 is new enough getting another board I would think would make sense as long as it's not high priced.
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December 26, 2015, 06:39:09 PM
 #97

I can get one, maybe two, miners, on one circuit, depending on the load.  What are other "home miners" doing to get 5 or 6 miners in the same room?  I understand "the professionals" are wired to do this, but what are "home miners" doing?

I'm in the US with 120V home wiring.

if not wiring for 240v, you'll have to map your circuits. I happened to have two circuits nearby, so i just use a good extender/surge protector to bring power from the second circuit to the room with a first circuit. This allowed me to run two S7 in the same room. This is probably a limit/room as with more the room will overheat.

One typical residential 15A, 120V circuit can safely run only ONE S7 as 1345-1360W (at peak)/110 (at minimum)=12.3 A. You have to stay at or below 80% of 15A (~12A) for continuous use ( and NOTHING else on the circuit). The fact that on peak it will be 12.3A might be OK since it will be at maximum output and minimal voltage. Typically, voltage is higher than 110V, giving you a slight cushion, but it is close.
A 110/120V 20A circuit is definitely OK-you can check your box re which circuits you have.

Batches 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 are safer in this regard (they use less power).
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December 26, 2015, 09:07:40 PM
 #98

I can get one, maybe two, miners, on one circuit, depending on the load.  What are other "home miners" doing to get 5 or 6 miners in the same room?  I understand "the professionals" are wired to do this, but what are "home miners" doing?

I'm in the US with 120V home wiring.

if not wiring for 240v, you'll have to map your circuits. I happened to have two circuits nearby, so i just use a good extender/surge protector to bring power from the second circuit to the room with a first circuit. This allowed me to run two S7 in the same room. This is probably a limit/room as with more the room will overheat.

One typical residential 15A, 120V circuit can safely run only ONE S7 as 1345-1360W (at peak)/110 (at minimum)=12.3 A. You have to stay at or below 80% of 15A (~12A) for continuous use ( and NOTHING else on the circuit). The fact that on peak it will be 12.3A might be OK since it will be at maximum output and minimal voltage. Typically, voltage is higher than 110V, giving you a slight cushion, but it is close.
A 110/120V 20A circuit is definitely OK-you can check your box re which circuits you have.

Batches 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 are safer in this regard (they use less power).

And to handle the "wiring", i use big outdoor yellow extension cords. I bring those the a corner in the living room and have all the miner dumb their heat strait outside. I have actual 120V so i do okay up to 1400~1440 per circuit i guess. That should be enough for some OC room for the S7 after the warranty expires.


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December 27, 2015, 02:08:36 AM
 #99

Great setup info. Can't wait to get my s7
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December 27, 2015, 05:37:30 AM
 #100

I can get one, maybe two, miners, on one circuit, depending on the load.  What are other "home miners" doing to get 5 or 6 miners in the same room?  I understand "the professionals" are wired to do this, but what are "home miners" doing?

I'm in the US with 120V home wiring.

if not wiring for 240v, you'll have to map your circuits. I happened to have two circuits nearby, so i just use a good extender/surge protector to bring power from the second circuit to the room with a first circuit. This allowed me to run two S7 in the same room. This is probably a limit/room as with more the room will overheat.

One typical residential 15A, 120V circuit can safely run only ONE S7 as 1345-1360W (at peak)/110 (at minimum)=12.3 A. You have to stay at or below 80% of 15A (~12A) for continuous use ( and NOTHING else on the circuit). The fact that on peak it will be 12.3A might be OK since it will be at maximum output and minimal voltage. Typically, voltage is higher than 110V, giving you a slight cushion, but it is close.
A 110/120V 20A circuit is definitely OK-you can check your box re which circuits you have.

Batches 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 are safer in this regard (they use less power).

And to handle the "wiring", i use big outdoor yellow extension cords. I bring those the a corner in the living room and have all the miner dumb their heat strait outside. I have actual 120V so i do okay up to 1400~1440 per circuit i guess. That should be enough for some OC room for the S7 after the warranty expires.

You might be able to get a deal on outdoors extension cords.  I have a very heavy duty one that was meant for a lot of Christmas lights.  I used it when I wanted to have a circuit in one room go to another to mine.  I'm guessing most stores discount lighting and lighting accessories for Christmas lights now.

But make sure it is a very good outdoors one.  Some are not near the quality and cheap. 
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