What is the average life of a mining rig?

[arielbit]

Got some 280x's still going for almost 3 years 24/7 temp 80 degrees 70% fan. Fans did stiffen up after about 2 years... I just spray some wd40 in them carefully when it happens and they are good as new again!

Ps. Wd40 is not recommended I belive machine oil is but... I've not had any problems so far... just made sure I didn't use too much so it would leak or get it on the gpu board.

WD is not good for high temperature operation. You need some grease like those used in the bike or car.

 Grease is too thick. Standard motor oil works pretty well though, and is designed to handle MUCH higher temperatures than any computer (in working condition) will ever see.

 On the other hand, any fan in bad enough shape to NEED to be relubricated isn't very long for this world as a working item. Relube is an EMERGENCY SHORT TERM measure intended to get you by 'till you can REPLACE the bad fan with a good new fan.

 Avoid sleeve bearing fans (this SPECIFICALLY includes stuff like "rifle" "hydro" "permalube" etc) - they do NOT live up to their claimed MTBF due to failure in the seals intended to keep the lube in, and VERY rarely last even a year in 24/7 high-temp environments.
 Stick with ball bearing - which can run for YEARS with no lube at all if you keep the dust and grime out of the bearings.

 This is why I generally stick with Sapphire or Gigabyte cards - they come with Ball Bearing fans across the board AFAIK.
 (Might be true for some other brands, definitely NOT true for HIS).

compressor oil is better, the oil that is used in car aircon compressor, it is not as thick as motor oil. got my 280x's with 90mm high speed fans zip tied to them..those fans are lubed with compressor oil, and i sealed them with a black sticky tar/asphalt like stuff i bought at an aircon/refrigeration shop..those fans are doing really well, summer has passed and they have not given up and no oil leaks.

regarding HIS, i just bought a couple of this RX 480 IceQ X2 Roaring OC 8GB, didn't know about their fans being inferior, got samsung memory though.

 THe HIS Ice-Q models with a blower are ball bearing and tend to last.
 HIS has a bad habit of using sleeve bearing fans on non-blower models though from what little I've seen of them - might depend on the specific model though.

i'm thinking if the fans failed  before the 2 year warranty ends, we can get the gpu replaced  ,the problem with the blower type for me is the way it is designed, you cannot easily replace the fan if it failed..the non-blower design is quite easy to modify, just remove the plastic frame and you can strap a couple of 90mm PWM fans and you are good to go.

the reason i used PWM fans instead of oiling the original stock sapphire 280x fan is because it is wobbling when it is failing and there are times it reaches the gpu heat sink and makes noise.

maybe we should make a new thread about making home based swamp cooling tachniques, parts/materials etc. so home based miners can add more gpus/rigs to their setup..aside from reaching max current in our homes electrical circuit we also are reaching max temperature too..i'm still researching on it and substituting parts that are not available here..i am preparing for summer.

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[QuintLeo]

I ended up sticking some 60mm x 25mm Delta fans on my "fan died" HIS HD 7750 cards - they were left-over from CPU cooler days, I KNEW they blew plenty of air and had GOOD bearings.

 Turns out the cards run about 20c COOLER now, despite no shroud or any fancy mount directing the airflow - but they DID get quite a bit noisier.
 Thank goodness none of them were the 8000RPM screamers....


 The IceQ HD7870 has been a nice solid cool-running card, only issue with it is the fan sticks out so far it's a 2.5 space card.



 Don't get me started on reaching "max safe power limits" on my current place. Got everything traced out, and figured, and I'm going to have to shut down the A2 88Mh/s cause I don't have enough power for all 5 of my A2 units, and it's the lowest income generator I have left right now.

[arielbit]

I ended up sticking some 60mm x 25mm Delta fans on my "fan died" HIS HD 7750 cards - they were left-over from CPU cooler days, I KNEW they blew plenty of air and had GOOD bearings.

 Turns out the cards run about 20c COOLER now, despite no shroud or any fancy mount directing the airflow - but they DID get quite a bit noisier.
 Thank goodness none of them were the 8000RPM screamers....


 The IceQ HD7870 has been a nice solid cool-running card, only issue with it is the fan sticks out so far it's a 2.5 space card.



 Don't get me started on reaching "max safe power limits" on my current place. Got everything traced out, and figured, and I'm going to have to shut down the A2 88Mh/s cause I don't have enough power for all 5 of my A2 units, and it's the lowest income generator I have left right now.

in your case you have maxed out your safe power limits..for me (and i believe there are others like me) it is the temperature that is maxing out..i think i can squeeze 10-20 amps more, my upgrade is gradual so every increase in amps i can observe everything needed to be looked at..this is the cooler part of the year but when summer comes, i think i have to shut down or under perform my cards to reach desired temps unless my swamp cooler (still being designed) is a success.

[QuintLeo]

I've already got my swamp cooler in the house, just not hooked up.

 Unfortunately, I'll have to shut down SOMETHING to power it when I need it.



 On a side note - I had quite a few of my DNet machines (the Distributed net client isn't mining as such, but puts very similar loads on a system for the same reasons) last ballpark 20 years before I finally retired most of the oldest ones when I moved this summer. The primary issue I ever had with those was FANS dying (and often causing overheat-related other dead parts), followed by motherboards dying.

[arielbit]

I've already got my swamp cooler in the house, just not hooked up.

 Unfortunately, I'll have to shut down SOMETHING to power it when I need it.



 On a side note - I had quite a few of my DNet machines (the Distributed net client isn't mining as such, but puts very similar loads on a system for the same reasons) last ballpark 20 years before I finally retired most of the oldest ones when I moved this summer. The primary issue I ever had with those was FANS dying (and often causing overheat-related other dead parts), followed by motherboards dying.

you are really at the edge of your max safe power there..swamp cooler power consumption is only limited to the pump and the fans, well for my mining room i think the fan that blow air to the cards and and the exhaust fan is enough to move air around my mining room..

pumps that is 1/2 hp might be an overkill already to what i'm designing, and 1/2 hp is just ~ 400 watts. (240v here)

you might want to try my solution to my fans, this material can seal (with or without cover) where you pour the lubricant oil. my fans lasted more than half the summer here and still running 24/7

this is better compared to (3m double tape-the gray one, silicon sealant, other tapes) in sealing and work-ability of the material, purchased from an aircon/refrigeration shop. don't know the name of this, i just said the black sticky stuff..i just seen this being used by a technician for sealing holes where tubes had passes thru..these are very good at staying put and handling heat. in any case it is better to wash clean with alcohol the areas from oil and maybe a little bit of roughening the surface with a sand paper before sticking this material.

tip: use masking tape or re use the fan sticker and cover this black-sticky stuff after the work is done.



and i use this oil..

http://www.ariazone.com/product_oil_aa1.php

it is a bit expensive but this is just leftover so i'm saved from buying, there are other cheaper compressor oils out there and i believe they are better than standard motor oil.

[QuintLeo]

My cooler is supposed to be a 1/4 HP but it draws about 500 watts at high setting (actual measured figure, higher for a fractional second when the fan motor starts up), I suspect it's actually a 1/3 HP. Electric motors are usually highly efficient, but they are NOT 100% efficient (1 HP = appx 750 watts at 100% efficiency).

 If I was willing to run every circuit at 100% of breaker limit, I'd have enough power - but the house is old enough I'm actually targeting 75% to be safe, *AND* I have to worry about the total draw on the main breaker being the REAL hard limit here.


 I AM thinking about breaking down some of the parts out of my cooler and using them on my existing fans to make impromptu evaps, it would save noticeable power.
 I'm hoping to be out of this place before I actually NEED the evep though - 6 month lease and I figure that last couple weeks to a month of that for actually moving....

[arielbit]

My cooler is supposed to be a 1/4 HP but it draws about 500 watts at high setting (actual measured figure, higher for a fractional second when the fan motor starts up), I suspect it's actually a 1/3 HP. Electric motors are usually highly efficient, but they are NOT 100% efficient (1 HP = appx 750 watts at 100% efficiency).

 If I was willing to run every circuit at 100% of breaker limit, I'd have enough power - but the house is old enough I'm actually targeting 75% to be safe, *AND* I have to worry about the total draw on the main breaker being the REAL hard limit here.


 I AM thinking about breaking down some of the parts out of my cooler and using them on my existing fans to make impromptu evaps, it would save noticeable power.
 I'm hoping to be out of this place before I actually NEED the evep though - 6 month lease and I figure that last couple weeks to a month of that for actually moving....

generally electric motors starting power is x3 when starting up, so if a motor is 500w expect 1500w starting power, gradually it will settle to 500w..

if you know your wire type like if its THHN or TW etc., you know the max ampacity of the wire, the weak points are the areas where the wires are cut and connected, i simply touch them and feel the temperature if it is heating up and i make sure everything is tightly connected. copper don't deteriorate, unless corroded by other elements.

for me 75 - 80% of the breaker limit is my target too..my breaker is 10 amps lower than my mains wire (max safe) ampacity though. well using 95-100% or maybe at least 90% of breaker limit will cook your breaker and you will experience occasional breaker trip.

[QuintLeo]

I'm only seeing about a 2x kick. It varies depending on the motor startup circuit, load, type of motor, etc.

 You'd have to SEE the wiring setup on this place to believe it though - the actual wire used is decent, the boxes and breakers are QO but the actual INSTALLATION is a massive code issue - I suspect the wiring was all done before code was adopted here.

 Ever seen an OUTDOOR breaker box on a house, using an INDOOR panel? At least that's the neighbor's box, and whoever installed it used silicone sealer around all of the openings, but GAH.....

 Overall, I'm most worried about the use of bloody spices (they DID use the insulated screw-on connector type stuff that USED to be valid under the code but does tend to have issues at times) and the breakers overheat-derating too much come summertime (but I'm planning to be OUT of here by then, and I'm VERY well aware of required derating for higher temps).


 I was, in the past, a union-trained Journeyman Electrician, bonded and licensed for a few years (in another state, but NEC is NEC). Code hasn't changed a TON since then, other than to adopt some "best practices" recommendation type stuff that is now required (like seperate ground wire, which was only a recommendation 'till the 1996 revision), but this stuff is scary in some ways.

[arielbit]

I'm only seeing about a 2x kick. It varies depending on the motor startup circuit, load, type of motor, etc.

 You'd have to SEE the wiring setup on this place to believe it though - the actual wire used is decent, the boxes and breakers are QO but the actual INSTALLATION is a massive code issue - I suspect the wiring was all done before code was adopted here.

 Ever seen an OUTDOOR breaker box on a house, using an INDOOR panel? At least that's the neighbor's box, and whoever installed it used silicone sealer around all of the openings, but GAH.....

 Overall, I'm most worried about the use of bloody spices (they DID use the insulated screw-on connector type stuff that USED to be valid under the code but does tend to have issues at times) and the breakers overheat-derating too much come summertime (but I'm planning to be OUT of here by then, and I'm VERY well aware of required derating for higher temps).


 I was, in the past, a union-trained Journeyman Electrician, bonded and licensed for a few years (in another state, but NEC is NEC). Code hasn't changed a TON since then, other than to adopt some "best practices" recommendation type stuff that is now required (like seperate ground wire, which was only a recommendation 'till the 1996 revision), but this stuff is scary in some ways.

i'm sorry the x3 was an allowance, i just got very used to it...like in using a transformer or AVR for motors a x3 is usually the rule of the thumb.

the panel box here are indoors, seen those outdoor stuff during my my days of researching. silicon sealant is wear and tear resistant, i bet that panel box would give-in to rust before that silicon sealant breaks or leaks.

so you are an electrician...i'm not, don't loose me on terminologies lol, don't know NEC and the Code. i do have electricity related minor subjects when in college, watched and learned from an electrician too...but i study and practice for personal use only, i even setup electrical cabling for my mom's boarding house and office (residential level only), my dad's farm, and a little electrical fixing on my friends homes.

in 1996 there it was recommended there to use a separate ground wire? here in 2016 we still have 2 wires a 240v and the other is the ground LOL.. i agree there is an element of being "scary" but the important thing is that i understand electricity and its behavior..i did a few live wire splicing in my lifetime in involving #10, #8 and #6 AWG..the sweat, adrenaline and concentration phew!

[QuintLeo]

The "seperate ground wire" was a recomendation BEFORE the 1996 NEC revision, it became a requirement after that.

 I'm not currently an electrician - let the license and bonding expire years back when I went into other work - but I keep up on the changes when I can.

 I DO strongly recommend that you DO NOT DO ELECTRICAL WIRING unless it's inspected afterwards by a trained electrician that DOES know the code for where you are at - amateurs make way too many mistakes that can cause shorts, fires, and overloads through ignorance.

[arielbit]

The "seperate ground wire" was a recomendation BEFORE the 1996 NEC revision, it became a requirement after that.

 I'm not currently an electrician - let the license and bonding expire years back when I went into other work - but I keep up on the changes when I can.

 I DO strongly recommend that you DO NOT DO ELECTRICAL WIRING unless it's inspected afterwards by a trained electrician that DOES know the code for where you are at - amateurs make way too many mistakes that can cause shorts, fires, and overloads through ignorance.

i perfectly understand, i would advice that too to myself if i were in your position..i have 10 years experience doing this electrical stuff and i always make sure that there will be no possibility of shorts and overloads besides there is always a protection (breakers) with lines i install, i know the materials used and how to use them, i measure current, voltage and observe..i even setup last year a 10kva generator, switches, panels and, breakers at my parents house. the genset is an old heavy duty 2 cylinder kirloskar, it was fun reconditioning it with truck parts.

i know there are really good electricians, but from where i live there are electricians (the ones i encountered most) that are lazy and sloppy at their work..better do it my self.