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Author Topic: Swedish ASIC miner company kncminer.com  (Read 3031296 times)
TXSteve
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October 18, 2015, 05:43:45 PM
 #41541

Just wanted to share my experience after watching the YouTube video, I went ahead and ordered copper heatsinks and GC-Extreme paste from amazon, they were delivered within a day. I cut the metal bar further to allow me to install individual heatsinks on all 8 DC-DC modules. BTW, I replaced the stock fans with Noctua earlier. What an improvement, this cube would never run over 281 MHz, now it's been running at 325 MHz for over 24 hours. I see DC-DC temp as high as 86 but never 90, as I set that as my max temp on GenTarkin's mod. Cutting the metal bar was a pain though specially for the front 4 DC-DC modules.

congrats,  I found I never had to do those front 4 because they always ran pretty cool. I  did  vrms 1-4 if they were running hot.  I made it thru all summer in the south Texas heat running at 325 MHz, and 19 days without even a bfg restart, woulda gone longer but I had to edit the config file, lol
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Prelude
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October 18, 2015, 06:26:19 PM
 #41542

Just wanted to share my experience after watching the YouTube video, I went ahead and ordered copper heatsinks and GC-Extreme paste from amazon, they were delivered within a day. I cut the metal bar further to allow me to install individual heatsinks on all 8 DC-DC modules. BTW, I replaced the stock fans with Noctua earlier. What an improvement, this cube would never run over 281 MHz, now it's been running at 325 MHz for over 24 hours. I see DC-DC temp as high as 86 but never 90, as I set that as my max temp on GenTarkin's mod. Cutting the metal bar was a pain though specially for the front 4 DC-DC modules.

Thanks for sharing. What were the DC/DC temps before the mod? Lower or higher?
GenTarkin
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October 18, 2015, 06:26:37 PM
 #41543

Just wanted to share my experience after watching the YouTube video, I went ahead and ordered copper heatsinks and GC-Extreme paste from amazon, they were delivered within a day. I cut the metal bar further to allow me to install individual heatsinks on all 8 DC-DC modules. BTW, I replaced the stock fans with Noctua earlier. What an improvement, this cube would never run over 281 MHz, now it's been running at 325 MHz for over 24 hours. I see DC-DC temp as high as 86 but never 90, as I set that as my max temp on GenTarkin's mod. Cutting the metal bar was a pain though specially for the front 4 DC-DC modules.

Do you have any stats on before / after temps of the DCDC's u modded the cooling for? At the same speeds?

I really want to see the results of the mod before / after, thats key to seeing if this is all pointless or not.
Also, I would really love to know if sinking the E piece rather than hacking it all apart is adaquate to cool down the VRMs or not. I cant imagine much heat getting through those thick thermal pads, but w/o actual numbers to compare ... its all fucking guesswork lol!

GenTarkin's MOD Kncminer Titan custom firmware! v1.0.4! <--- CLICK HERE
Donations: bitcoin- 1Px71mWNQNKW19xuARqrmnbcem1dXqJ3At || litecoin- LYXrLis3ik6TRn8tdvzAyJ264DRvwYVeEw
hawkfish007
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October 18, 2015, 06:46:17 PM
 #41544

Just wanted to share my experience after watching the YouTube video, I went ahead and ordered copper heatsinks and GC-Extreme paste from amazon, they were delivered within a day. I cut the metal bar further to allow me to install individual heatsinks on all 8 DC-DC modules. BTW, I replaced the stock fans with Noctua earlier. What an improvement, this cube would never run over 281 MHz, now it's been running at 325 MHz for over 24 hours. I see DC-DC temp as high as 86 but never 90, as I set that as my max temp on GenTarkin's mod. Cutting the metal bar was a pain though specially for the front 4 DC-DC modules.

Do you have any stats on before / after temps of the DCDC's u modded the cooling for? At the same speeds?

I really want to see the results of the mod before / after, thats key to seeing if this is all pointless or not.
Also, I would really love to know if sinking the E piece rather than hacking it all apart is adaquate to cool down the VRMs or not. I cant imagine much heat getting through those thick thermal pads, but w/o actual numbers to compare ... its all fucking guesswork lol!

I should have documented it, but as far as I remember cube was running over 90C and your mod kept lowering hash rate until it found acceptable rate at which temp will stay below 90 which was 281. Below is a screenshot of 2 cubes. Cube 1 was modified and currently running at 325 MHz, cube 2 always run at 300 MHz, haven't tried 325 yet but I will soon. Other 2 cubes are in the process of modification, waiting on USPS to deliver heatsinks and thermal compound from Amazon any time now. Ambient temp is 81F in my garage. So I would say that individual heatsinks were able to lower temp for my setup.


For quality risers, splitters or 133 CFM fans, please visit my eBay listings,
http://www.ebay.com/sch/hawkfish007/m.html?_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
TXSteve
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October 18, 2015, 06:51:07 PM
 #41545

Just wanted to share my experience after watching the YouTube video, I went ahead and ordered copper heatsinks and GC-Extreme paste from amazon, they were delivered within a day. I cut the metal bar further to allow me to install individual heatsinks on all 8 DC-DC modules. BTW, I replaced the stock fans with Noctua earlier. What an improvement, this cube would never run over 281 MHz, now it's been running at 325 MHz for over 24 hours. I see DC-DC temp as high as 86 but never 90, as I set that as my max temp on GenTarkin's mod. Cutting the metal bar was a pain though specially for the front 4 DC-DC modules.

Do you have any stats on before / after temps of the DCDC's u modded the cooling for? At the same speeds?

I really want to see the results of the mod before / after, thats key to seeing if this is all pointless or not.
Also, I would really love to know if sinking the E piece rather than hacking it all apart is adaquate to cool down the VRMs or not. I cant imagine much heat getting through those thick thermal pads, but w/o actual numbers to compare ... its all fucking guesswork lol!

you can't sink the E piece, it's down as far as it will go. Take out the thermal pads & there is a 1/4 in gap.  I did find a 1/4 in copper heatsink that fits right in there and they do work better than the thermal pads, but not as good as the 1/2in heatsinks with epoxy which will drop the temp a good 10-15c

-- and don't forget to scrape off the sticker on top of vrms it'll work even better
hawkfish007
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October 18, 2015, 07:01:50 PM
 #41546

Just wanted to share my experience after watching the YouTube video, I went ahead and ordered copper heatsinks and GC-Extreme paste from amazon, they were delivered within a day. I cut the metal bar further to allow me to install individual heatsinks on all 8 DC-DC modules. BTW, I replaced the stock fans with Noctua earlier. What an improvement, this cube would never run over 281 MHz, now it's been running at 325 MHz for over 24 hours. I see DC-DC temp as high as 86 but never 90, as I set that as my max temp on GenTarkin's mod. Cutting the metal bar was a pain though specially for the front 4 DC-DC modules.

Do you have any stats on before / after temps of the DCDC's u modded the cooling for? At the same speeds?

I really want to see the results of the mod before / after, thats key to seeing if this is all pointless or not.
Also, I would really love to know if sinking the E piece rather than hacking it all apart is adaquate to cool down the VRMs or not. I cant imagine much heat getting through those thick thermal pads, but w/o actual numbers to compare ... its all fucking guesswork lol!

you can't sink the E piece, it's down as far as it will go. Take out the thermal pads & there is a 1/4 in gap.  I did find a 1/4 in copper heatsink that fits right in there and they do work better than the thermal pads, but not as good as the 1/2in heatsinks with epoxy which will drop the temp a good 10-15c

Do you know how DC-DC connections are numbered? The front 4s are staying low with individual heatsinks, I took out the adhesive back from one of the heatsink and applied thermal compound for the 1st DC-DC on the right after the 1st row of 4. I see that 1 of the DC-DC is 5C lower, was wondering if thermal compound is more efficient. 

For quality risers, splitters or 133 CFM fans, please visit my eBay listings,
http://www.ebay.com/sch/hawkfish007/m.html?_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
TXSteve
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October 18, 2015, 07:11:25 PM
 #41547

Just wanted to share my experience after watching the YouTube video, I went ahead and ordered copper heatsinks and GC-Extreme paste from amazon, they were delivered within a day. I cut the metal bar further to allow me to install individual heatsinks on all 8 DC-DC modules. BTW, I replaced the stock fans with Noctua earlier. What an improvement, this cube would never run over 281 MHz, now it's been running at 325 MHz for over 24 hours. I see DC-DC temp as high as 86 but never 90, as I set that as my max temp on GenTarkin's mod. Cutting the metal bar was a pain though specially for the front 4 DC-DC modules.

Do you have any stats on before / after temps of the DCDC's u modded the cooling for? At the same speeds?

I really want to see the results of the mod before / after, thats key to seeing if this is all pointless or not.
Also, I would really love to know if sinking the E piece rather than hacking it all apart is adaquate to cool down the VRMs or not. I cant imagine much heat getting through those thick thermal pads, but w/o actual numbers to compare ... its all fucking guesswork lol!

you can't sink the E piece, it's down as far as it will go. Take out the thermal pads & there is a 1/4 in gap.  I did find a 1/4 in copper heatsink that fits right in there and they do work better than the thermal pads, but not as good as the 1/2in heatsinks with epoxy which will drop the temp a good 10-15c

Do you know how DC-DC connections are numbered? The front 4s are staying low with individual heatsinks, I took out the adhesive back from one of the heatsink and applied thermal compound for the 1st DC-DC on the right after the 1st row of 4. I see that 1 of the DC-DC is 5C lower, was wondering if thermal compound is more efficient.  

Arctic silver makes a 2 part thermal epoxy, that works better than the adhesive .. I don't think thermal compound will hold it very well. With the epoxy you need to clamp the heatsink in position for an hour. You can buy spring clamps at ace or Walmart that work well. If I only had to drop it a few degrees I went with the adhesive like you did. If I needed more I went with the thermal epoxy
NOTE: thermal epoxy is permanent & only to be used with the little 1/2in  copper heatsinks. Don't use it between the asics and the big KNC heatsink. If in doubt try the adhesive backing first

on the pcb the dc-dc are labeled U1-U8
on the advanced settings they are labeled dc-dc 0-7  ...  so if dc-dc zero in settings is running hot, put the heat sink on U1

-- that's what I did, maybe I should make a video and charge for it  Smiley
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October 18, 2015, 07:32:26 PM
 #41548

Just wanted to share my experience after watching the YouTube video, I went ahead and ordered copper heatsinks and GC-Extreme paste from amazon, they were delivered within a day. I cut the metal bar further to allow me to install individual heatsinks on all 8 DC-DC modules. BTW, I replaced the stock fans with Noctua earlier. What an improvement, this cube would never run over 281 MHz, now it's been running at 325 MHz for over 24 hours. I see DC-DC temp as high as 86 but never 90, as I set that as my max temp on GenTarkin's mod. Cutting the metal bar was a pain though specially for the front 4 DC-DC modules.

Do you have any stats on before / after temps of the DCDC's u modded the cooling for? At the same speeds?

I really want to see the results of the mod before / after, thats key to seeing if this is all pointless or not.
Also, I would really love to know if sinking the E piece rather than hacking it all apart is adaquate to cool down the VRMs or not. I cant imagine much heat getting through those thick thermal pads, but w/o actual numbers to compare ... its all fucking guesswork lol!

you can't sink the E piece, it's down as far as it will go. Take out the thermal pads & there is a 1/4 in gap.  I did find a 1/4 in copper heatsink that fits right in there and they do work better than the thermal pads, but not as good as the 1/2in heatsinks with epoxy which will drop the temp a good 10-15c

-- and don't forget to scrape off the sticker on top of vrms it'll work even better

You can definitely sink the E piece, throw some heatsinks from ebay on top of it.  That would dramatically increase the surface area of that E piece and probably cool the VRM's a lot better.

GenTarkin's MOD Kncminer Titan custom firmware! v1.0.4! <--- CLICK HERE
Donations: bitcoin- 1Px71mWNQNKW19xuARqrmnbcem1dXqJ3At || litecoin- LYXrLis3ik6TRn8tdvzAyJ264DRvwYVeEw
TXSteve
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October 18, 2015, 07:42:47 PM
 #41549

Just wanted to share my experience after watching the YouTube video, I went ahead and ordered copper heatsinks and GC-Extreme paste from amazon, they were delivered within a day. I cut the metal bar further to allow me to install individual heatsinks on all 8 DC-DC modules. BTW, I replaced the stock fans with Noctua earlier. What an improvement, this cube would never run over 281 MHz, now it's been running at 325 MHz for over 24 hours. I see DC-DC temp as high as 86 but never 90, as I set that as my max temp on GenTarkin's mod. Cutting the metal bar was a pain though specially for the front 4 DC-DC modules.

Do you have any stats on before / after temps of the DCDC's u modded the cooling for? At the same speeds?

I really want to see the results of the mod before / after, thats key to seeing if this is all pointless or not.
Also, I would really love to know if sinking the E piece rather than hacking it all apart is adaquate to cool down the VRMs or not. I cant imagine much heat getting through those thick thermal pads, but w/o actual numbers to compare ... its all fucking guesswork lol!

you can't sink the E piece, it's down as far as it will go. Take out the thermal pads & there is a 1/4 in gap.  I did find a 1/4 in copper heatsink that fits right in there and they do work better than the thermal pads, but not as good as the 1/2in heatsinks with epoxy which will drop the temp a good 10-15c

-- and don't forget to scrape off the sticker on top of vrms it'll work even better

You can definitely sink the E piece, throw some heatsinks from ebay on top of it.  That would dramatically increase the surface area of that E piece and probably cool the VRM's a lot better.

ohhhh, that's an idea, worth a try but I don't think those thermal pads conduct much heat up to the e plate, and U1-U4 usually need a lot of add'l cooling(when they need it), might work on U5-U8. Cutting e plate for U1-U4 isn't hard, only takes a couple min with a hacksaw, cutting it for U5-U8 looks like a real pain, but I never had to do it
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October 18, 2015, 08:10:30 PM
 #41550

Just wanted to share my experience after watching the YouTube video, I went ahead and ordered copper heatsinks and GC-Extreme paste from amazon, they were delivered within a day. I cut the metal bar further to allow me to install individual heatsinks on all 8 DC-DC modules. BTW, I replaced the stock fans with Noctua earlier. What an improvement, this cube would never run over 281 MHz, now it's been running at 325 MHz for over 24 hours. I see DC-DC temp as high as 86 but never 90, as I set that as my max temp on GenTarkin's mod. Cutting the metal bar was a pain though specially for the front 4 DC-DC modules.

Do you have any stats on before / after temps of the DCDC's u modded the cooling for? At the same speeds?

I really want to see the results of the mod before / after, thats key to seeing if this is all pointless or not.
Also, I would really love to know if sinking the E piece rather than hacking it all apart is adaquate to cool down the VRMs or not. I cant imagine much heat getting through those thick thermal pads, but w/o actual numbers to compare ... its all fucking guesswork lol!

you can't sink the E piece, it's down as far as it will go. Take out the thermal pads & there is a 1/4 in gap.  I did find a 1/4 in copper heatsink that fits right in there and they do work better than the thermal pads, but not as good as the 1/2in heatsinks with epoxy which will drop the temp a good 10-15c

-- and don't forget to scrape off the sticker on top of vrms it'll work even better

You can definitely sink the E piece, throw some heatsinks from ebay on top of it.  That would dramatically increase the surface area of that E piece and probably cool the VRM's a lot better.

ohhhh, that's an idea, worth a try but I don't think those thermal pads conduct much heat up to the e plate, and U1-U4 usually need a lot of add'l cooling(when they need it), might work on U5-U8. Cutting e plate for U1-U4 isn't hard, only takes a couple min with a hacksaw, cutting it for U5-U8 looks like a real pain, but I never had to do it

Well, I had vegasguy take a temp measurement of the top of the E piece and side of the inductor on a VRM, they were within 5C of each other ... So, I think those thermal pads are transferring heat quite well. It may be worth a shot to add more surface area(sink the top) of the E piece. It would be like the easiest mod one could do, and if it works good... then great!

GenTarkin's MOD Kncminer Titan custom firmware! v1.0.4! <--- CLICK HERE
Donations: bitcoin- 1Px71mWNQNKW19xuARqrmnbcem1dXqJ3At || litecoin- LYXrLis3ik6TRn8tdvzAyJ264DRvwYVeEw
TXSteve
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October 18, 2015, 08:19:10 PM
 #41551

Just wanted to share my experience after watching the YouTube video, I went ahead and ordered copper heatsinks and GC-Extreme paste from amazon, they were delivered within a day. I cut the metal bar further to allow me to install individual heatsinks on all 8 DC-DC modules. BTW, I replaced the stock fans with Noctua earlier. What an improvement, this cube would never run over 281 MHz, now it's been running at 325 MHz for over 24 hours. I see DC-DC temp as high as 86 but never 90, as I set that as my max temp on GenTarkin's mod. Cutting the metal bar was a pain though specially for the front 4 DC-DC modules.

Do you have any stats on before / after temps of the DCDC's u modded the cooling for? At the same speeds?

I really want to see the results of the mod before / after, thats key to seeing if this is all pointless or not.
Also, I would really love to know if sinking the E piece rather than hacking it all apart is adaquate to cool down the VRMs or not. I cant imagine much heat getting through those thick thermal pads, but w/o actual numbers to compare ... its all fucking guesswork lol!

you can't sink the E piece, it's down as far as it will go. Take out the thermal pads & there is a 1/4 in gap.  I did find a 1/4 in copper heatsink that fits right in there and they do work better than the thermal pads, but not as good as the 1/2in heatsinks with epoxy which will drop the temp a good 10-15c

-- and don't forget to scrape off the sticker on top of vrms it'll work even better

You can definitely sink the E piece, throw some heatsinks from ebay on top of it.  That would dramatically increase the surface area of that E piece and probably cool the VRM's a lot better.

ohhhh, that's an idea, worth a try but I don't think those thermal pads conduct much heat up to the e plate, and U1-U4 usually need a lot of add'l cooling(when they need it), might work on U5-U8. Cutting e plate for U1-U4 isn't hard, only takes a couple min with a hacksaw, cutting it for U5-U8 looks like a real pain, but I never had to do it

Well, I had vegasguy take a temp measurement of the top of the E piece and side of the inductor on a VRM, they were within 5C of each other ... So, I think those thermal pads are transferring heat quite well. It may be worth a shot to add more surface area(sink the top) of the E piece. It would be like the easiest mod one could do, and if it works good... then great!

worth a try, let us know how it works out
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October 18, 2015, 10:27:19 PM
 #41552

Here're the instruction for applying artic silver thermal compound :

 http://www.arcticsilver.com/amd_application_method.html#

 there're 2 ways to do it, Center Dot & Surface Spread, all ways recommend using a creditcard to tint first. Surface spread recommends a cc or razor blade to spread it. Center Dot recommends a dot the size of an uncooked grain of rice(If you think that's enough in this application, go for it, but be prepared to be disappointed).

Somewhere in there it also recommends to spread the paste into the copper pipe cracks if any, to fill any voids.  Also notice that there is a break in period of up to 200 hours, where  it'll take multiple thermal cycles to achieve maximum particle to particle thermal conduction, (results will improve over time). A thermal cycle is an on/off, heating/cooling cycle, but we never turn ours off so it may take longer than 200 hours to obtain max efficiency


Searing if you're feeling ambitious take a look at the intel instructions, there they have 2 add'l methods vertical line & horizontal line, however I really don't think they apply here, just if you're curious  Smiley
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October 19, 2015, 12:26:17 AM
 #41553

Just wanted to share my experience after watching the YouTube video, I went ahead and ordered copper heatsinks and GC-Extreme paste from amazon, they were delivered within a day. I cut the metal bar further to allow me to install individual heatsinks on all 8 DC-DC modules. BTW, I replaced the stock fans with Noctua earlier. What an improvement, this cube would never run over 281 MHz, now it's been running at 325 MHz for over 24 hours. I see DC-DC temp as high as 86 but never 90, as I set that as my max temp on GenTarkin's mod. Cutting the metal bar was a pain though specially for the front 4 DC-DC modules.

Do you have any stats on before / after temps of the DCDC's u modded the cooling for? At the same speeds?

I really want to see the results of the mod before / after, thats key to seeing if this is all pointless or not.
Also, I would really love to know if sinking the E piece rather than hacking it all apart is adaquate to cool down the VRMs or not. I cant imagine much heat getting through those thick thermal pads, but w/o actual numbers to compare ... its all fucking guesswork lol!

you can't sink the E piece, it's down as far as it will go. Take out the thermal pads & there is a 1/4 in gap.  I did find a 1/4 in copper heatsink that fits right in there and they do work better than the thermal pads, but not as good as the 1/2in heatsinks with epoxy which will drop the temp a good 10-15c

-- and don't forget to scrape off the sticker on top of vrms it'll work even better

You can definitely sink the E piece, throw some heatsinks from ebay on top of it.  That would dramatically increase the surface area of that E piece and probably cool the VRM's a lot better.

ohhhh, that's an idea, worth a try but I don't think those thermal pads conduct much heat up to the e plate, and U1-U4 usually need a lot of add'l cooling(when they need it), might work on U5-U8. Cutting e plate for U1-U4 isn't hard, only takes a couple min with a hacksaw, cutting it for U5-U8 looks like a real pain, but I never had to do it

Well, I had vegasguy take a temp measurement of the top of the E piece and side of the inductor on a VRM, they were within 5C of each other ... So, I think those thermal pads are transferring heat quite well. It may be worth a shot to add more surface area(sink the top) of the E piece. It would be like the easiest mod one could do, and if it works good... then great!

worth a try, let us know how it works out

I dont have a titan, not sure if vegasguy is up to it, will see haha!

GenTarkin's MOD Kncminer Titan custom firmware! v1.0.4! <--- CLICK HERE
Donations: bitcoin- 1Px71mWNQNKW19xuARqrmnbcem1dXqJ3At || litecoin- LYXrLis3ik6TRn8tdvzAyJ264DRvwYVeEw
Prelude
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October 19, 2015, 01:49:09 AM
 #41554

-- that's what I did, maybe I should make a video and charge for it  Smiley

Only if you actually release it!  Tongue
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October 19, 2015, 02:36:12 AM
 #41555

-- that's what I did, maybe I should make a video and charge for it  Smiley

Only if you actually release it!  Tongue

Of course I'd release it, eventually Smiley

But hey, I put a lot of work into these titans since last spring, mostly building on teslamans mods in this thread. The little copper heatsinks on the dc-dc and cutting the eplate that we're talking about today, started with teslaman many months ago, it's not new info. I didn't pay for his generous advice so I am not really looking for compensation. I had a head start because I knew it would be a real challenge getting them thru this south texas heat, and general tarkins mod was a huge help in automating things, like monitoring temps and die failures.

Today the high was a refreshing 82f, so I should be good for another 9 mos or so, this is when it's nice down here
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October 19, 2015, 04:14:12 AM
 #41556

-- that's what I did, maybe I should make a video and charge for it  Smiley

Only if you actually release it!  Tongue

Of course I'd release it, eventually Smiley

But hey, I put a lot of work into these titans since last spring, mostly building on teslamans mods in this thread. The little copper heatsinks on the dc-dc and cutting the eplate that we're talking about today, started with teslaman many months ago, it's not new info. I didn't pay for his generous advice so I am not really looking for compensation. I had a head start because I knew it would be a real challenge getting them thru this south texas heat, and general tarkins mod was a huge help in automating things, like monitoring temps and die failures.

Today the high was a refreshing 82f, so I should be good for another 9 mos or so, this is when it's nice down here

I was able to run all 4 of my cubes at 325 MHz and gain a little over 60 MH by putting those small heatsinks on DC-DC modules and reapplying thermal compound to the big heat sink of 3 cubes. The 4th cube was able to run at 325 w/o any modification, it was running stable at 300 MHz and I didn't try 325 before since other cubes would not run at 300 for over 20 mins. Thanks for all the tips and link to YouTube mod video. If you are planning to do this, as TXSteve mentioned before don't forget to peel off the sticker on DC-DC, I forgot to take sticker off of 1 cube and it is running warmer than the other 2.

For quality risers, splitters or 133 CFM fans, please visit my eBay listings,
http://www.ebay.com/sch/hawkfish007/m.html?_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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October 19, 2015, 04:02:31 PM
 #41557

BTW, heres an interesting tidbit for yall, I think why many titans "dies end up dieing permanently" are infact because the DCDC modules burn out. After looking over the tech sheet, its easy to see why. If the ambient temp (surface temp of the inductor) reaches the 80-90's these are only rated for 25-30A to maintain their expected lifespan.
The fact some folks run them at these temps 24/7 and draw over 40A through them, its easy to see why the DCDC's would die ....

When vegas measured the temp of the inductor from the side, it measured about 55C , the webgui showed about just over 60C ... so there is a really small delta between the ambient temp & internal junction temp(webgui reading) of these DCDC's

Meaning, if ur webgui shows 90C area, the inductor is probably not far behind, most likely running in the low 80's ... which means nowhere near 40A should be pulled from the DCDC at that point.

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October 19, 2015, 05:38:20 PM
 #41558

BTW, heres an interesting tidbit for yall, I think why many titans "dies end up dieing permanently" are infact because the DCDC modules burn out. After looking over the tech sheet, its easy to see why. If the ambient temp (surface temp of the inductor) reaches the 80-90's these are only rated for 25-30A to maintain their expected lifespan.
The fact some folks run them at these temps 24/7 and draw over 40A through them, its easy to see why the DCDC's would die ....

When vegas measured the temp of the inductor from the side, it measured about 55C , the webgui showed about just over 60C ... so there is a really small delta between the ambient temp & internal junction temp(webgui reading) of these DCDC's

Meaning, if ur webgui shows 90C area, the inductor is probably not far behind, most likely running in the low 80's ... which means nowhere near 40A should be pulled from the DCDC at that point.

What would be the safest Maximum DCDC temp setting on advance page of your mod regardless of the ambient temp? I currently set it at 90 and all dies run at 325, should I lower it?



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October 19, 2015, 07:01:49 PM
 #41559

BTW, heres an interesting tidbit for yall, I think why many titans "dies end up dieing permanently" are infact because the DCDC modules burn out. After looking over the tech sheet, its easy to see why. If the ambient temp (surface temp of the inductor) reaches the 80-90's these are only rated for 25-30A to maintain their expected lifespan.
The fact some folks run them at these temps 24/7 and draw over 40A through them, its easy to see why the DCDC's would die ....

When vegas measured the temp of the inductor from the side, it measured about 55C , the webgui showed about just over 60C ... so there is a really small delta between the ambient temp & internal junction temp(webgui reading) of these DCDC's

Meaning, if ur webgui shows 90C area, the inductor is probably not far behind, most likely running in the low 80's ... which means nowhere near 40A should be pulled from the DCDC at that point.

What would be the safest Maximum DCDC temp setting on advance page of your mod regardless of the ambient temp? I currently set it at 90 and all dies run at 325, should I lower it?




Ultimately its up to the user and their preferences of how long they want the machine to potentially last.
Its hard to answer ur question definitively due to so many environment variables & operating conditions between cubes.
What everyone needs is a laser temp reader to take temperature checks of the inductor on the DCDC modules while its hashing. If its true that the inductor is generally within 10C of the webgui stat then a SAFE MAX temp @ 40A is... between 70 & 75C, so webgui stat should no higher than 80-85C.

Whats interesting is with more airflow these DCDC's are rated for more current safely at any given temp, even if the temp is the same vs less/no airflow.

For example, temp of inductor 80C @ no airflow is safe up to 34A.  80C @ 2-3m/s of airflow is safe up to 40A
At 100C inductor temp: 20A safe for no airflow, 30A safe for 3m/s of airflow

Another facet of max life from DCDC's is keeping them at their rated 40A max or lower. I know most of mine in the titan @ 325mhz are at 40-41A ... which I imagine aint bad, but I think around 43A ur starting to really push it. The actual Current limiting function of the DCDC's kicks in at 46A

This is the life expectancy of the DCDC's given everything is within spec:
MTBF at 90% confidence level = 11.52 Mh

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October 19, 2015, 07:08:36 PM
 #41560

BTW, if anyone feels like tackling it.... LOL

350mhz is doable, if ur freaking crazy and want to melt ur titan asap, but it is doable.
The key lies in reverse engineering the spimux-titan.rbf binary file. Its closed source, maybe, if ur lucky u can try to beg KNC to release the source =)

BE WARNED!, ur DCDC's will probably catch fire and ur PSU will melt eventually and power cables turn into burnt spaghetti noodles but what the hay!!! YOLO!! =P
If anyone loves fireworks, 350mhz+ is the way to go!

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