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Author Topic: Swedish ASIC miner company kncminer.com  (Read 3049457 times)
hawkfish007
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January 23, 2016, 12:23:43 AM
 #41881

Ahh, that is so great, I can finally configure my Titan in Zulu!

I have a question - How much profit are you guys with only 1 Titan making? What's your electricity cost?

I have a half-dead Titan that's been sitting in its box gathering dust... doesn't seem worth trying to set it up (I remember hours and hours of frustration trying to keep it mining properly...), but I'm surprised that many of you seem to still be making a profit with it after so many months. And with GenTarkin's improvements to the software, it might be much less frustrating than it was with KNC's rushed software.


Here is a good calculator

https://www.litecoinpool.org/calc


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January 23, 2016, 06:08:05 AM
 #41882

Guys, I have one Titan cube that shuts down the psu immediately after connected to the psu. Earlier it shut down the psu randomly but now instantly when connected. It has one die that had to be off (according to its earlier owner), and it is currently off.

BTW: It shuts down the psu even without controller connected.

Do you think there is a short circuit?
Yes. You have a bad power supply inside of the Titan itself, my guess is if there weren't any flames shooting out of it that some of the high side FETs are blown. That's a fix-able thing if you have the right tools, drop me a PM and let me know if you would like me to look at it.


Some of my seasonic psu do that. Seasonic has 4 12 pin plugs, each 12 pin plug feeds a split cable with 2 6 pin pci connectors. If you use both connectors on the same cable going to the same y connector you may overload that circuit and the psu will shut down. I think seasonic has some overload protection that kicks in, especially the newer psu's

What you have to do is take 1 cable from 1 12 pin connector, and another cable from another 12 pin connector and plug these into the Y connector that powers the cube. Thus splitting the power draw between 2 12 pin ports on the psu.

Seasonic only supplies 3 12 pin cables, so to power 2 cubes you need to buy an extra one for these newer psu

If you have seasonic this may be causing the problem, otherwise give lightfoot a try
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January 24, 2016, 02:58:38 PM
 #41883

The controller doesn't share a common ground with any of the cubes correct? So you are allowed to plug them into different breakers?


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lightfoot
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January 24, 2016, 05:01:41 PM
 #41884

The controller doesn't share a common ground with any of the cubes correct? So you are allowed to plug them into different breakers?


Well, hm. The controller has a common ground line to every port, the supplies to the FPGA are not transformer isloated so each cube does share a common. One could have used optoisolators on the SPI busses, but naah.

That said, I don't think different breakers would be a problem as long as all breaker and power supplies shared a common ground.
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January 26, 2016, 09:18:27 AM
 #41885

Someone on here was aksing about this...it is JUST the knc old site (not the forums) but has all the news
and patches from oct jupiters etc on

just figured it may be useful to some

i'm currently using httrack websidte copier to grab the stuff and firmware..but again forums is down

here is the IP to try

http://168.63.65.32/


just pop that in and let it run...again forums come up as 502 error

looking at tools to merge all the knc forums wayback machine archives into one archive to see if we could get a more complete mirror of the forums

i see tools for such but looks over my head

that would be my suggestion to the more knowledgeable then myself if there was some way to grab all the 'wayback machine' archives and 'merge'

them in some manner to recover

www.forums.kncforums.com ..using that or IP or whatever

but again all are on below

https://web.archive.org/web/*/http://forum.kncminer.com/forum/

well anyway was just a thought..but anyway for those in need or want to track firmware progress etc for jupiter 2013 and onward use the above ip

but again would be nice to see all the wayback forums (if possible) merged into at least a 'half-assed' version of forums tech info

would be helpful

anyway for what it is worth at this late date

by the by

www.kncminer.com

still has pages up for neptune and titan stuff fyi....


Old Style Legacy Plug & Play BBS System. Get it from www.synchro.net. Updated 1/1/2021. It also works with Windows 10 and likely 11 and allows 16 bit DOS game doors on the same Win 10 Machine in Multi-Node! Five Minute Install! Look it over it uninstalls just as fast, if you simply want to look it over. Freeware! Full BBS System! It is a frigging hoot!:)
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January 28, 2016, 01:08:10 AM
 #41886

I need to replace a fan on one of my KNC Titan cubes.  What replacement fans have others had good luck with?
hawkfish007
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January 28, 2016, 02:28:36 AM
 #41887

I need to replace a fan on one of my KNC Titan cubes.  What replacement fans have others had good luck with?

Very happy with Noctua NF-A14, a tad louder than stock fan but cools much better.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCRF1A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

For quality risers, splitters or 133 CFM fans, please visit my eBay listings,
http://www.ebay.com/sch/hawkfish007/m.html?_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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January 28, 2016, 03:01:14 AM
 #41888

I need to replace a fan on one of my KNC Titan cubes.  What replacement fans have others had good luck with?

Very happy with Noctua NF-A14, a tad louder than stock fan but cools much better.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCRF1A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Curious, whats the DCDC temp difference you noticed?

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hawkfish007
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January 28, 2016, 04:09:10 AM
Last edit: January 28, 2016, 04:28:22 AM by hawkfish007
 #41889

I need to replace a fan on one of my KNC Titan cubes.  What replacement fans have others had good luck with?

Very happy with Noctua NF-A14, a tad louder than stock fan but cools much better.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCRF1A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Curious, whats the DCDC temp difference you noticed?

They managed to keep temp below 80F during summer months, but I also added individual heat sinks to the DCDC module (like in Swedish video). Temp would go up to 90 when I was using stock fan.

Edit: mod pic


For quality risers, splitters or 133 CFM fans, please visit my eBay listings,
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January 28, 2016, 04:45:24 AM
 #41890

I need to replace a fan on one of my KNC Titan cubes.  What replacement fans have others had good luck with?

Very happy with Noctua NF-A14, a tad louder than stock fan but cools much better.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCRF1A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Since the Titan does not regulate fan speed, does it matter if we use 3 or 4-pin connectors? 
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January 28, 2016, 09:28:29 AM
Last edit: January 28, 2016, 09:39:46 AM by Searing
 #41891

Hey I have a seasonic 1200i that has worked well since nov 2014 on my 6 cube Titan setup

summer it toggled itself off...so i put 2 cubes with 1 dead die each and reg working full cube on it to save (100 watts)

it did this on me again less then 1 month ago

and it was fine up to this week...now it has 're-lighted 2x time in 3 days"

so my post here on such..in that the 'asic gods' are trying to tell me something i fear (like get another corsair 1200i you cheapskate!) Sad



so my question is I have a 660w corsair (remember knc in 2013 saying they were gonna have 3rd batch and then did not yeah still new lol) Smiley

anyway I COULD make this 6 port unit with 3 cubes (fading corsair 1200i) into a 5 cube unit and move the cube to my other controller using above seasonic 660w
so that my 2 cube titan unit (works fine with 860w seasonic) into a 2 psu unit and 3 cube unit

that is my cheap ass plan (unless folk think it is too dangerous from what they see my psu doing..thus this post to other titan types)


BUT is this a 'sign from the asic gods' that the PSU is going BAD big time and I should just replace it?

(the self test comes up ok go figure)

temp in basement is like 64F so THAT should not be an issue..also have euro 220v tripp lite surge protector on the unit...and the other corsair on same controller
works just 'dandy' ..that one has the controller power as well...so the 'fading 1200i goes and poof' she mines at 1/2 speed ....

(as i sit here looking from work at my 429mh vs my usual 645mh ...gee a whole 2 bucks a day I'm losing after electric! (the horror) with LTC anyway

anyway if worse comes to worse the only problem with my 'cheap ass plan' is even running 2 cubes it 'fades out and off" and it won't be stable ...I will try this

would be slick if I could at least 'see' if this could limp along with 2 cubes only.....save me 309 bucks (or at least alllow me to get a new corsair 1200i and keep in the box

as a spare ...if I go full coward)

if folk on here have more experience with this then myself and say NO DON'T it is a sign of something worse and could fry the titan etc would appreciate the 'heads up"

....but anyway just wondering what folk think

also have the old 7 year parts and labor warranty on this corsair 1200i i psu's is the postage/costs worth looking into to get such refurbished? (309 sale w/ship on newegg as an example
of new corsair 1200i costs incl shipping)...has anyone every 'refurb'd' a psu on such a plan after the 30 day replacement has passed...is it worth it?...

anyway appreciate it ....don't need to turn the 1 titan into a 'doorstop' quite yet Smiley if the consensus is my PSU is shot as hell and just letting me know before it 'blows up"


(i bet we will see more of these posts...actually like 14 months 24/7 probably is NOT unexpected to replace a PSU on these....but still)

anyway 'expert' advice from others 'maybe' with similar issues (gpu/asic/or other) please reply with advice

thanks


I need to replace a fan on one of my KNC Titan cubes.  What replacement fans have others had good luck with?

Very happy with Noctua NF-A14, a tad louder than stock fan but cools much better.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCRF1A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Curious, whats the DCDC temp difference you noticed?

They managed to keep temp below 80F during summer months, but I also added individual heat sinks to the DCDC module (like in Swedish video). Temp would go up to 90 when I was using stock fan.

Edit: mod pic



Did you get a picture of your 'obviously' modified cut down 'heat sink plate' on the above also (or a link)

trying to 'man up' and do the same

on a side note I 'heard' from someone who got an email from kurt at knc (tech) back in the day ..that you put the 'thermal paste' on the 'heatsink' not the chip..just enough to cover it

not sure if legit advice or not (it is a knc tech) but figured I'd pass it along here .....perhaps we can have a debate on the merits of each Smiley

anyway my plan is if I ever do such I will simply take the 'heatsink plate' to a local metal shop ..give the guy 10 bucks to cut it 'precisely' and buff it up...lazy that I am Smiley

anyway again a picture of your mod would be great!

Old Style Legacy Plug & Play BBS System. Get it from www.synchro.net. Updated 1/1/2021. It also works with Windows 10 and likely 11 and allows 16 bit DOS game doors on the same Win 10 Machine in Multi-Node! Five Minute Install! Look it over it uninstalls just as fast, if you simply want to look it over. Freeware! Full BBS System! It is a frigging hoot!:)
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January 28, 2016, 03:44:36 PM
 #41892



I need to replace a fan on one of my KNC Titan cubes.  What replacement fans have others had good luck with?

Very happy with Noctua NF-A14, a tad louder than stock fan but cools much better.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCRF1A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Curious, whats the DCDC temp difference you noticed?

They managed to keep temp below 80F during summer months, but I also added individual heat sinks to the DCDC module (like in Swedish video). Temp would go up to 90 when I was using stock fan.

Edit: mod pic



Did you get a picture of your 'obviously' modified cut down 'heat sink plate' on the above also (or a link)

trying to 'man up' and do the same

on a side note I 'heard' from someone who got an email from kurt at knc (tech) back in the day ..that you put the 'thermal paste' on the 'heatsink' not the chip..just enough to cover it

not sure if legit advice or not (it is a knc tech) but figured I'd pass it along here .....perhaps we can have a debate on the merits of each Smiley

anyway my plan is if I ever do such I will simply take the 'heatsink plate' to a local metal shop ..give the guy 10 bucks to cut it 'precisely' and buff it up...lazy that I am Smiley

anyway again a picture of your mod would be great!


Traditionally for stuff like CPU's at least, you apply the TIM(thermal interface material) on the chip itself, in the form of a little bead in the center. The pressure from the heatsink being screwed down then spreads it out. This way you get a nice thin layer created by the 2 surfaces you're mating together. The TIM is only supposed to help w/ heat conductivity due to the imperfections of both of the surfaces. There isnt supposed to be a thick ass layer of it between the 2 surfaces, often times this will hurt thermal conductivity.
People & manufacturers tend to apply way too much TIM... lol...

If you want the best TIM possible there is this stuff thats miraculous for high wattage applications.
http://www.amazon.com/Coollaboratory-Liquid-Pro-Thermal-Compound/dp/B001PE5XAC

I used it on my hashfast cards, dropped the temps 20-30c ... Im not shitting ... I couldnt believe it at first myself.  The watercooling tube went from a mild warmth in my hand to to a near scorching feeling in my hand... the thermal conductivity of that liquid pro is fucking insane.   It should be, its literally liquid metal. Of course the hashfast cards were like 600watts or something.  These Titan cubes are around 270w(actual ASIC usage)(depending on clocks / volts), so liquid pro may not have that much of an effect, but it would help still somewhat. On second thought, if the heatspreader on the Titan ASIC is aluminium then cant use liquid pro =/

Also, keep in mind the Titan ASIC is covered by a heat spreader ... it could be mounted faulty as well and no matter how u apply the heatsink ... the ASIC dies may still be running hot if the manufacturer didnt mount that heat spreader right.

Also, as far as the actual temp of the Titan ASIC itself, its all guesswork... we have no fucking idea. Heck, some of these dies not working right may be simply because they are overheating either due to bad heatsink seating or the heatspreader is mounted like shit.
If the heatspreader is actually soldered to the ASIC on all 4 dies ... then the thermal conductivity of the heatspreader should be perfect.

We only know the temps of the DCDC's modules. Which is the copper heatsink mod posted above. Each one of those is a DCDC, 2 per die.

GenTarkin's MOD Kncminer Titan custom firmware! v1.0.4! -- !!NO LONGER AVAILABLE!!
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January 28, 2016, 03:47:22 PM
 #41893

I need to replace a fan on one of my KNC Titan cubes.  What replacement fans have others had good luck with?

Very happy with Noctua NF-A14, a tad louder than stock fan but cools much better.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCRF1A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Curious, whats the DCDC temp difference you noticed?

They managed to keep temp below 80F during summer months, but I also added individual heat sinks to the DCDC module (like in Swedish video). Temp would go up to 90 when I was using stock fan.

Edit: mod pic



Do you mean 80C? ... so basically a 10C decrease using copper & improved fan?
If you meant 80F ... then I meant ... how much did the DCDC temps change as shown in the webgui =) .. cuz those numbers are in C

In stock confugration .. the stock plate just touches the tops(the inductor - where u put copper hs) of those DCDC's right?

GenTarkin's MOD Kncminer Titan custom firmware! v1.0.4! -- !!NO LONGER AVAILABLE!!
Donations: bitcoin- 1Px71mWNQNKW19xuARqrmnbcem1dXqJ3At || litecoin- LYXrLis3ik6TRn8tdvzAyJ264DRvwYVeEw
hawkfish007
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January 28, 2016, 06:52:46 PM
 #41894

I need to replace a fan on one of my KNC Titan cubes.  What replacement fans have others had good luck with?

Very happy with Noctua NF-A14, a tad louder than stock fan but cools much better.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCRF1A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Curious, whats the DCDC temp difference you noticed?

They managed to keep temp below 80F during summer months, but I also added individual heat sinks to the DCDC module (like in Swedish video). Temp would go up to 90 when I was using stock fan.

Edit: mod pic
https://i.imgur.com/7Ob0pNk.jpg?2


Do you mean 80C? ... so basically a 10C decrease using copper & improved fan?
If you meant 80F ... then I meant ... how much did the DCDC temps change as shown in the webgui =) .. cuz those numbers are in C

In stock confugration .. the stock plate just touches the tops(the inductor - where u put copper hs) of those DCDC's right?

Yeah, I meant 80C. Don't forget the non-heat conducting label on top of the DCDC, otherwise heat conductive pad between DCDC and the stock the plate.

Searing, here is the modified plate, I used a band saw to cut the plate.


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January 28, 2016, 10:40:17 PM
 #41895

That is a really, really smart idea. Covering those inductors was one of the more brainless things I have seen.

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January 28, 2016, 10:58:33 PM
 #41896

That is a really, really smart idea. Covering those inductors was one of the more brainless things I have seen.



What do you mean by "covering"? ... the stock plate? Cuz that stock plate actually functions as a single large heatsink ... maybe a poor one but it still does its job.

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January 29, 2016, 03:32:00 AM
 #41897

That is a really, really smart idea. Covering those inductors was one of the more brainless things I have seen.



What do you mean by "covering"? ... the stock plate? Cuz that stock plate actually functions as a single large heatsink ... maybe a poor one but it still does its job.
Mrph. Most of the heat can actually be felt *under* the board which is the wrong place for it to be.

I haven't actually gotten a temp probe to play, but in almost all cases the real source of heat is not the inductor it's the high side FETs. And those get no air on the 1/2,3/4 supplies. And those are what is right next to the caps that usually blow sky high....



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January 29, 2016, 07:45:34 AM
 #41898

Did you get a picture of your 'obviously' modified cut down 'heat sink plate' on the above also (or a link)

Here's the one I did a while back on my Neptune. Yep, Titan and Neptune Cubes are both laid out the same. I used a marker, ruler, a rotary with metal cutoff wheel and finished it off with some sandpaper. Oh and I clamped it down of course. You can see the first one got marred by the clamp, the rest I bent a piece of cardboard over it to protect it. Don't stress it too much, it's really not hard. That's the first time I've ever cut a metal plate like that and I have shaky hands! Fair warning though, it will get very hot if you use a rotary! Thanks for the old KnC IP link too, that's great! Smiley


For GenTarkin, I also did quite a few temp comparisons between the heatsink and fan upgrades, full gallery here: http://imgur.com/a/zQDSa

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January 29, 2016, 11:57:42 AM
 #41899

Did you get a picture of your 'obviously' modified cut down 'heat sink plate' on the above also (or a link)

Here's the one I did a while back on my Neptune. Yep, Titan and Neptune Cubes are both laid out the same. I used a marker, ruler, a rotary with metal cutoff wheel and finished it off with some sandpaper. Oh and I clamped it down of course. You can see the first one got marred by the clamp, the rest I bent a piece of cardboard over it to protect it. Don't stress it too much, it's really not hard. That's the first time I've ever cut a metal plate like that and I have shaky hands! Fair warning though, it will get very hot if you use a rotary! Thanks for the old KnC IP link too, that's great! Smiley


For GenTarkin, I also did quite a few temp comparisons between the heatsink and fan upgrades, full gallery here: http://imgur.com/a/zQDSa



yeah thanks glad i tripped over the knc ip address again

wondering if you  or others know...or have better google skills then me

but i go to

Internet Archive: Wayback Machine

and there is a crap load of 'saved site' stuff from KNC ..i'm unsure of "how deep" this goes (ie all the way down like 7 layers or more to forums)

BUT

There HAS to be a way ..you can get all these daily 'snapshots' and 'merge them in some manner ...getting out the duplicate links

and maybe just maybe 'merge' the archives into some kinda workable (kinda sorta) mirror for knc forums?


It would not be 'ideal' but better then nothing..er maybe?

anyway I looked at it ..no zip about comp sci stuff like this ....maybe you 'd have better luck or can ask around too as well as others here

so far no luck way over my head Sad

other then that still doing the WinHTTrack program for archiving  the IP address anyway
...it takes a bit to grab it all in an archive

anyway what i'm thinking ..perhaps it is NOT possible ..i'd think such could be done thou

anyway tossing it out there for the more skilled then myself (there should be more then a few lol ) Smiley

here is the IP address (w/o forums) link again

http://168.63.65.32/


and below is the part of that page above (forums) which does NOT work. Thus my merge of wayback machines archive above (er maybe?)

http://forum.kncminer.com/


Old Style Legacy Plug & Play BBS System. Get it from www.synchro.net. Updated 1/1/2021. It also works with Windows 10 and likely 11 and allows 16 bit DOS game doors on the same Win 10 Machine in Multi-Node! Five Minute Install! Look it over it uninstalls just as fast, if you simply want to look it over. Freeware! Full BBS System! It is a frigging hoot!:)
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January 29, 2016, 05:31:12 PM
 #41900

That is a really, really smart idea. Covering those inductors was one of the more brainless things I have seen.



What do you mean by "covering"? ... the stock plate? Cuz that stock plate actually functions as a single large heatsink ... maybe a poor one but it still does its job.
Mrph. Most of the heat can actually be felt *under* the board which is the wrong place for it to be.

I haven't actually gotten a temp probe to play, but in almost all cases the real source of heat is not the inductor it's the high side FETs. And those get no air on the 1/2,3/4 supplies. And those are what is right next to the caps that usually blow sky high....


Yeah, the little FET's on there are also very hot. IIRC when I looked through the tech docs on those DCDC's it shows where each DCDC's thermistors are located. I believer there is 2 per DCDC but I could be wrong. The docs also specified 2 key points of measurement for cooling & airflow, one of them was the inductor. Grilling through the tech docs is how I ended up realizing why in most cases these things are being tortured and the way we run them the life expectency is drastically minimized. Which is why I recommend 85-90C webgui readout being the absolute max we push them to. 

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