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Author Topic: A4 Drop Card Issues - Jig Reflash Thread  (Read 4518 times)
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Eyedol-X (OP)
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December 16, 2016, 02:35:43 PM
Last edit: December 16, 2016, 03:44:43 PM by Eyedol-X
 #1

The ongoing A4 Issue's thread was a preorder thread: Those of us with B1/B2 A4's are now faced with the below challenge and a new thread is needed.

Forking to this thread from the original Pre-Order thread as of this post > https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=1523298.msg17202120#msg17202120

Ok, I received an update from Inno last night.  There is good, there is BAD, and there is UGLY to this whole mess.  I understand why there hasn't been any word from them now.  They are also trying to figure out how to do this, and the cost to make just 1 jig is CRAZY expensive.  So this is a HUGE mess.

So here are the basics in a nutshell.  Inno is going to send 1 jig to the US.  The cost to make one of the jigs is just insane so we will only get ONE jig to get this job done.  I offered to take the lead in working with US customers to try and get everyone some sort of arrangement to get your miners flashed.  I just don't know how this is going to get done otherwise.  There is no simple solution and this is going to take time and going to likely be messy.  So I ask for your patience up front as I know this isn't going to be easy.

So now we have to work out the details on how to best get everyone who needs the flash done.  I know some customers will be more technically inclined than others and will be willing to flash their own rigs.  For those customers I think the best solution will be to send the jig out to those customers.  Others who are not so comfortable doing this we will have to coordinate shipping rigs and having myself or another trusted member who has the jig flash the miners for you.  

For those who want to flash their own rigs, what we will have to do is setup a lottery where each member picks a number we put it in a hat and draw out the number.  That person will have the opportunity to get the jig first to do the flash.  Then we will do the lottery again and have the jig sent to the next person.  We will work through the list of customers until everyone has an opportunity to flash rigs who is willing and able to do so.

Now the bad part here is that due to the cost of the jig we have to ensure that the jig is passed along and not kept by a member when we still have members who need to be flashed.  So my suggestion here is that we setup an escrow.  In order to get the jig sent out to you once your number is drawn in the lottery we will need to collect a deposit that is held by an escrow.   The deposit will be returned to you as soon as the jig has been passed along to the next person who was picked in the lottery and has paid the deposit to have the jig sent.  This way we ensure that the jig gets passed around and ultimately returned in case we should have to go through this exercise again.  

There will need to be a time limit that any one member can keep the jig so that this process is not delayed for those waiting.  I would say 7 days with the jig should be ample time to make some time to open up the A4's and to do the flash, and then to get the jig sent off to the next person waiting.

Since there is only 1 jig this is going to take time, and a lot of patience on everyone's part.  It sounds like if we use DHL and keep the receipts and provide them to Inno that they may compensate you for the shipping costs for this.  I need to confirm this with them so don't hold me to that.  I will get the details and pass them along.
 
So I will open this up to the community here to discuss the plan and work out the details.  I want this to be as fair as possible for everyone and I will try to help anyone who is not comfortable flashing their rigs.  You will have to make your need known so we can try to figure out how to get your rigs fixed.  

I will be reaching out to other customers who are not members here on BCT and will give them the same information and suggest they join this discussion here on BCT to simplify communications for this juggling act with the 1 jig.  

Ok, that is the scoop.  Please feel free to offer suggestions and feedback so we can try to make this process work as smoothly as we can for everyone.  This is a community effort at this point and this is all volunteer work.  We have quite a few miners to get flashed so this is going to take a while. So please be gentle with me and we will work through this! LOL

I will let you know as soon as the jig arrives here and any additional details as I get them.  


As much as I don't want to ship my A4's around, this lottery system and physically shipping the jig increases the chances of damage from handling. So I say we completely rule this out. If the Jig gets damaged shipping between members, we are all fucked.

If Lightfoot is willing, my vote is just ship it to him and I'll have to bite the bullet to ship my A4's around.

Edit: This is assuming you don't want to take on the challenge of shipping/flashing everyones A4's

Honestly, if Inno is going to reimburse for shipping, I would be amazed, however it's highly unlikely IMO. Lets just all assume we are lucky to get the jig at this point.

Inno needs to include an empty case, a PI, and a couple of fans with this Jig.

If Inno can do this, we have the option of packing and ship our A4 Cards only instead of the entire miner to the person flashing/testing. Save money on round trip shipping costs.

How about we open a new thread for the jig/flashing activities.
Also, if we keep the jig at one location (which makes more sense than shipping it around and risking damage to the jig), I would suggest somewhere in the central US to minimize the "average" shipping costs for the A4's.
If we do decide to ship the jig, I would suggest 1 stop on the east coast and one stop on the west coast.
Im perfectly happy to ship my A4's to someone to flash for me, Although the process seems simple enough.
Also, what about pulling the blades out of the A4's and shipping those in groups, scheduling with the person who has the jig. That would help to reduce shipping slightly. I think it will be like $20-$30 to ship an individual cube somewhere in the US.
Im in Arizona, which is further west than central. Perhaps someone in Texas would want to do the flashing?
Also, if we have someone doing all the flashing, what would be the costs for that in addition to the shipping?
These are all questions we need to address, hence I suggested the separate thread.

Running Total -- trying to get something comma seperated going here so it's easier to parse data later -- if everyone could just add to this list  and combine others when posting. Until we know differently, I'm assuming the same jig is used for B1 and B2 miners.

List of miners that need updating that located in USA ONLY:
2, Longsnowsm
3, Firehawk71
2, Eyedol-X
3, Usao
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Eyedol-X (OP)
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December 16, 2016, 02:38:11 PM
 #2

How about we open a new thread for the jig/flashing activities.
Also, if we keep the jig at one location (which makes more sense than shipping it around and risking damage to the jig), I would suggest somewhere in the central US to minimize the "average" shipping costs for the A4's.
If we do decide to ship the jig, I would suggest 1 stop on the east coast and one stop on the west coast.
Im perfectly happy to ship my A4's to someone to flash for me, Although the process seems simple enough.
Also, what about pulling the blades out of the A4's and shipping those in groups, scheduling with the person who has the jig. That would help to reduce shipping slightly. I think it will be like $20-$30 to ship an individual cube somewhere in the US.
Im in Arizona, which is further west than central. Perhaps someone in Texas would want to do the flashing?
Also, if we have someone doing all the flashing, what would be the costs for that in addition to the shipping?
These are all questions we need to address, hence I suggested the separate thread.

I'm located in North Texas but the challenge I would have is time to get them done. I do have the ability to ship around the country but if I were to do this, It would be ~1 week turnaround for me as I work FT and run a business.

Dunno where lightfoot is but he still has my vote.

I agree on the best case scenario is to have someone in Central US
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December 16, 2016, 02:48:20 PM
 #3

I have plenty of time, and the process looks to be simple enough, but in in Arizona, which is not very central to anywhere.
I could turn-around A4's in a day I would expect.
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December 16, 2016, 02:52:29 PM
 #4

Anyone have a photo of the jig? I found the test points for the St Link interface to reflash the chip I just need the firmware unless there is some goofy procedure to doing this, really building a simple pin setup just to pop open the back push it on and hit send shouldn't be to far outta reach really. I was able to connect to one blade of mine and pull what firmware was on there off just to test. I live in Virginia not to central there either.

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December 16, 2016, 02:56:18 PM
 #5

Anyone have a photo of the jig? I found the test points for the St Link interface to reflash the chip I just need the firmware unless there is some goofy procedure to doing this, really building a simple pin setup just to pop open the back push it on and hit send shouldn't be to far outta reach really. I was able to connect to one blade of mine and pull what firmware was on there off just to test. I live in Virginia not to central there either.


Pics

Please take some pix and instructions of how to use the jig.

Here's some pics: https://www.flickr.com/photos/vinylwasp/sets/72157677783247635/

1. Unplug and Remove Fan
2. Remove the 2 screws that hold the cards into the chassis.
3. Slide out cards, and remove stickers covering contacts on each board (Batch 2 cards)
4. Move the mode selector switch on the Jig towards the Mini Downloader into the Up/Download position (see photos)
5. Plug both USB cables into the jig (they're powered from any standard USB socket). Both lights (red and blue) on the Mini Downloader should be flashing.
6. Place card (with heatsink on) onto the jig.
7. Lower the contacts onto the card using the handle
8. Push the button on the Mini Downloader. The Red light will flash a few times and then the Blue light locks on. This indicates that the firmware download was successful.
9. Flip the mode selector switch into the Down/Decode position away from the Mini-Downloader. Watch the card's LED. It should come on in a second and will stay lit for 5-7 seconds while the jig performs some diagnostics (my assumption, not documented).
10. Once the LED goes off, raise the pin assembly, remove the card, flip the mode selector back into the Up/Download position, and remove the USB cables.
11. Start process again.

That's it. The reflash process takes about 30 seconds per card. I struck a couple of mine where the LED began flashing like crazy at step 7, or step 9, but resetting the card in the jig and/or performing the process again from the start sorted it.

If you can get a Jig, anyone who can handle a screwdriver can do this job if you follow the documentation and keep your cool if LEDs start flashing.
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December 16, 2016, 03:02:52 PM
 #6

Anyone have a photo of the jig? I found the test points for the St Link interface to reflash the chip I just need the firmware unless there is some goofy procedure to doing this, really building a simple pin setup just to pop open the back push it on and hit send shouldn't be to far outta reach really. I was able to connect to one blade of mine and pull what firmware was on there off just to test. I live in Virginia not to central there either.

Oh you can pull the firmware?Huh Then they didn't set the write protect bit, *good*.

I wonder if you could find someone to send you one blade from a 3.0 unit, then try pulling that firmware and flashing it to your 1.0/2.0 board. Or ask Inno to send you the firmware. I was thinking actually of building a "hat" that would go on the chip with a Pi behind it to just flash away but it sounds like Inno has the jig.

Edit: Looking at that jig I'm wondering why they have two sets of USB devices on there. Are they reprogramming one chip or two?

C
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December 16, 2016, 03:08:00 PM
 #7

Inno needs to include an empty case, a PI, and a couple of fans with this Jig.

If Inno can do this, we have the option of packing and ship our A4 Cards only instead of the entire miner to the person flashing/testing. Save money on round trip shipping costs.
That would be a very good idea. As someone who has repaired a bunch of reworks all at once awhile back time is critical. It takes time to pull the unit out, remove the screws, take off the fans, not lose the screws, pull the boards, and place on the preheater (or jig in this case). Then putting it together. The time spent doing that is miniscule to the user, but when you multiply it by 500 you're talking serious time.

People should pull out their blades, and send just those in. Make sure Inno is ok with this, if someone botches the removal then the boards should be replaced under warranty or something if Inno approves. (It's an exception case, document those).

It sounds like Inno wants to just do one jig, and to be honest the only skill I could offer with the jig is my kinda-good reputation :-). Anyone should be able to do the reprogramming, LS will do a great job on it I'm sure. If it required reflow/rework/fun skills then I'd put my hat in but for now it seems to be under control.

Anyone have a photo of the jig? I found the test points for the St Link interface to reflash the chip I just need the firmware unless there is some goofy procedure to doing this, really building a simple pin setup just to pop open the back push it on and hit send shouldn't be to far outta reach really. I was able to connect to one blade of mine and pull what firmware was on there off just to test. I live in Virginia not to central there either.

Oh you can pull the firmware?Huh Then they didn't set the write protect bit, *good*.

I wonder if you could find someone to send you one blade from a 3.0 unit, then try pulling that firmware and flashing it to your 1.0/2.0 board. Or ask Inno to send you the firmware. I was thinking actually of building a "hat" that would go on the chip with a Pi behind it to just flash away but it sounds like Inno has the jig.

C

Thanks Lightfoot -- I pulled your reply from old thread to make sure people here saw your comments.

Hopefully Inno can accomodate us on the empty case/accessories. Even though you're in VA and that's not dead center USA, I think you're the best suited person to crank these out.
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December 16, 2016, 03:09:26 PM
 #8

Thanks, well that is a nice jig for sure, other than the alignment part I don't see what all the extra stuff does, but I was powering the board with the normal setup this may do something different, plus that sticker over the test points that takes scraping to remove not just a peel off. I don't know I would almost be willing if I could get the software to try one board, really only needed 3 connections to read the chip, although this may do a more in depth sanity check.

For anyone that is interested I dismantled mine completely the other day and took photos, it survived the process. Pinned out all the cables to what they do and signals they are. One thing I found odd is I was curious what dc-dc regulators they were used to control the voltage but they lazered off the tops of them so you don't know what they are.

http://photos.mag-productions.com/Hobbies/A4-miner/n-skNV3f/

Anyone have a photo of the jig? I found the test points for the St Link interface to reflash the chip I just need the firmware unless there is some goofy procedure to doing this, really building a simple pin setup just to pop open the back push it on and hit send shouldn't be to far outta reach really. I was able to connect to one blade of mine and pull what firmware was on there off just to test. I live in Virginia not to central there either.

Oh you can pull the firmware?Huh Then they didn't set the write protect bit, *good*.

I wonder if you could find someone to send you one blade from a 3.0 unit, then try pulling that firmware and flashing it to your 1.0/2.0 board. Or ask Inno to send you the firmware. I was thinking actually of building a "hat" that would go on the chip with a Pi behind it to just flash away but it sounds like Inno has the jig.

C

yea no protect bit, wasn't set on A2s either, already thought about getting a B3 card to get it from, as for asking Inno I was talking to someone there regular about this process and being able to help and I thought it was going well but they disappeared 3 or 4 days ago.

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December 16, 2016, 03:18:57 PM
 #9

Thanks, well that is a nice jig for sure, other than the alignment part I don't see what all the extra stuff does, but I was powering the board with the normal setup this may do something different, plus that sticker over the test points that takes scraping to remove not just a peel off. I don't know I would almost be willing if I could get the software to try one board, really only needed 3 connections to read the chip, although this may do a more in depth sanity check.

For anyone that is interested I dismantled mine completely the other day and took photos, it survived the process. Pinned out all the cables to what they do and signals they are. One thing I found odd is I was curious what dc-dc regulators they were used to control the voltage but they lazered off the tops of them so you don't know what they are.

http://photos.mag-productions.com/Hobbies/A4-miner/n-skNV3f/

Anyone have a photo of the jig? I found the test points for the St Link interface to reflash the chip I just need the firmware unless there is some goofy procedure to doing this, really building a simple pin setup just to pop open the back push it on and hit send shouldn't be to far outta reach really. I was able to connect to one blade of mine and pull what firmware was on there off just to test. I live in Virginia not to central there either.

Oh you can pull the firmware?Huh Then they didn't set the write protect bit, *good*.

I wonder if you could find someone to send you one blade from a 3.0 unit, then try pulling that firmware and flashing it to your 1.0/2.0 board. Or ask Inno to send you the firmware. I was thinking actually of building a "hat" that would go on the chip with a Pi behind it to just flash away but it sounds like Inno has the jig.

C

yea no protect bit, wasn't set on A2s either, already thought about getting a B3 card to get it from, as for asking Inno I was talking to someone there regular about this process and being able to help and I thought it was going well but they disappeared 3 or 4 days ago.

Interesting, if I understand this correctly -- you can pull from the B3 card and make your own Jig to reflash B1/B2? ...or am I reading too much into this
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December 16, 2016, 03:19:44 PM
 #10

For anyone that is interested I dismantled mine completely the other day and took photos, it survived the process. Pinned out all the cables to what they do and signals they are. One thing I found odd is I was curious what dc-dc regulators they were used to control the voltage but they lazered off the tops of them so you don't know what they are.
My guess is they are 1850 type power controllers. I remember those on the Jalapeno and BFL 60gh units, they're actually not too bad but pretty simple. Two channel support, they watch dv/dt across the upper FETs to determine current but they drive both FETs from the same gate source. One mistake BFL did was to use three high side and 3 low side FETs. The high side FETs are on only a very small period of time, but need to start up and shut down *QUICKLY* which requires a low capacatance gate trench. By putting three of them on the high side they increased the gate capacitance and they ran much hotter than they would have with only two. Low side tends to be on a lot more so capacitance isn't an issue and running three is a good idea.

Sorry, technobabble :-)


Quote
yea no protect bit, wasn't set on A2s either, already thought about getting a B3 card to get it from, as for asking Inno I was talking to someone there regular about this process and being able to help and I thought it was going well but they disappeared 3 or 4 days ago.
Good. Milling down an 8 bit 1990's controller MCU was enough of a bitch. :-) They may be busy, but see if you can reflash it with a 3.0 code base. What's the worst that can happen?

C
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December 16, 2016, 03:20:37 PM
 #11

Interesting, if I understand this correctly -- you can pull from the B3 card and make your own Jig to reflash B1/B2? ...or am I reading too much into this
At this point you're reading way way way too much into this :-) But someone is already into the chip, and it is a possibility.

C
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December 16, 2016, 03:23:21 PM
 #12

For anyone that is interested I dismantled mine completely the other day and took photos, it survived the process. Pinned out all the cables to what they do and signals they are. One thing I found odd is I was curious what dc-dc regulators they were used to control the voltage but they lazered off the tops of them so you don't know what they are.
My guess is they are 1850 type power controllers. I remember those on the Jalapeno and BFL 60gh units, they're actually not too bad but pretty simple. Two channel support, they watch dv/dt across the upper FETs to determine current but they drive both FETs from the same gate source. One mistake BFL did was to use three high side and 3 low side FETs. The high side FETs are on only a very small period of time, but need to start up and shut down *QUICKLY* which requires a low capacatance gate trench. By putting three of them on the high side they increased the gate capacitance and they ran much hotter than they would have with only two. Low side tends to be on a lot more so capacitance isn't an issue and running three is a good idea.

Sorry, technobabble :-)


Quote
yea no protect bit, wasn't set on A2s either, already thought about getting a B3 card to get it from, as for asking Inno I was talking to someone there regular about this process and being able to help and I thought it was going well but they disappeared 3 or 4 days ago.
Good. Milling down an 8 bit 1990's controller MCU was enough of a bitch. :-) They may be busy, but see if you can reflash it with a 3.0 code base. What's the worst that can happen?

C

According to some info shared previously, supposedly the Hardware from B1/B2/B3 is all the same but the chips are all flashed differently.

I'd have to dig to find the post.
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December 16, 2016, 03:31:16 PM
 #13

According to some info shared previously, supposedly the Hardware from B1/B2/B3 is all the same but the chips are all flashed differently.

I'd have to dig to find the post.
That would not be unusual: KNC did this with the Neptunes, and when they made the Titans they followed the exact same design. Because if the previous design works in the field why change it?

Let's move these discussions back to the main thread though; this is for fixing the A4's.
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December 16, 2016, 03:36:03 PM
 #14

According to some info shared previously, supposedly the Hardware from B1/B2/B3 is all the same but the chips are all flashed differently.

I'd have to dig to find the post.
That would not be unusual: KNC did this with the Neptunes, and when they made the Titans they followed the exact same design. Because if the previous design works in the field why change it?

Let's move these discussions back to the main thread though; this is for fixing the A4's.

The vision for this thread was specific to those in the USA and how we are going to fix them/track those who need them.

If everyone thinks it's necessary I can lock this thread if people would rather go on the pre-order thread still.

Alternatively, I can revise it to not be limited to the US and just be a general thread for fixing/reflashing.

EDIT: I dropped the US limitation for this thread because your point is correct, this is about fixing A4's for everyone affected with B1/B2
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December 16, 2016, 03:44:50 PM
 #15

I certainly don't mind handing the jig off to someone who has the time to do this.  I know I certainly don't have the time to do this for everyone. 

I can tell you that Inno knows of 44 units in the US that were sold through them directly, and there are others that were bought through other channels.  So I need to reach out to those customers and direct them where ever we decide as a group to send these.   
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December 16, 2016, 03:55:38 PM
 #16

If someone can send me some high res photos of both sides of the board, and some pics of the jig and where it interfaces on the board, im pretty sure I can whip up a flasher for you guys that would require about $30 bucks worth of parts. I pretty much did the same thing for the Alcheminer guys when their boards had a major firmware issue that needed reflashing.

Project Apollo: A Pod Miner Designed for the Home https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=4974036
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December 16, 2016, 03:59:43 PM
 #17

If someone can send me some high res photos of both sides of the board, and some pics of the jig and where it interfaces on the board, im pretty sure I can whip up a flasher for you guys that would require about $30 bucks worth of parts. I pretty much did the same thing for the Alcheminer guys when their boards had a major firmware issue that needed reflashing.

This would be an awesome thing if it were possible, fixes everything for everyone.
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December 16, 2016, 04:07:46 PM
 #18

I certainly don't mind handing the jig off to someone who has the time to do this.  I know I certainly don't have the time to do this for everyone.  

I can tell you that Inno knows of 44 units in the US that were sold through them directly, and there are others that were bought through other channels.  So I need to reach out to those customers and direct them where ever we decide as a group to send these.  

Well I purchased my 2 through a US reseller so I'm not sure how Inno would track that, they were directly shipped to me from Inno I believe because they came from China.
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December 16, 2016, 04:14:10 PM
 #19

If someone can send me some high res photos of both sides of the board, and some pics of the jig and where it interfaces on the board, im pretty sure I can whip up a flasher for you guys that would require about $30 bucks worth of parts. I pretty much did the same thing for the Alcheminer guys when their boards had a major firmware issue that needed reflashing.

I was able to connect to it with 3 pins used , I don't have a photo to scale but I can take one, my idea was just to make another board with a lip and some pin headers that you could just press down on the other board, something pointy to poke through that sticker, it takes scraping to remove then something to clean. But I just hooked to it with the st-link v2 adapter from China I had, and just read the memory area.

I certainly don't mind handing the jig off to someone who has the time to do this.  I know I certainly don't have the time to do this for everyone. 

I can tell you that Inno knows of 44 units in the US that were sold through them directly, and there are others that were bought through other channels.  So I need to reach out to those customers and direct them where ever we decide as a group to send these.   

Was there some software associated with this or just a self contained unit?

lightfoot
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I fix broken miners. And make holes in teeth :-)


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December 16, 2016, 04:32:48 PM
 #20

If someone can send me some high res photos of both sides of the board, and some pics of the jig and where it interfaces on the board, im pretty sure I can whip up a flasher for you guys that would require about $30 bucks worth of parts. I pretty much did the same thing for the Alcheminer guys when their boards had a major firmware issue that needed reflashing.
Dude, you're a God. Next time I'm in VA I'll msg you for a beer (root beer or otherwise). That would be the way to do it.
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