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Author Topic: Wiring for a 220v PSU  (Read 570 times)
jonlorusso (OP)
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September 23, 2017, 09:06:27 PM
Last edit: September 23, 2017, 09:17:30 PM by jonlorusso
 #1

I'm sure this question has been asked more than once, but I'm not really finding anything good when I search so here goes...

I have a server-grade 220v PSU (I do not yet have a C13 cable for it), and a 220V (double throw) 20A breaker.  The breaker is in a subpanel but unwired.  I need to wire up a receptacle (or ideally, two receptacles), and then purchase a cable for the PSU.

My questions:

What kind of wire do I need coming from the breaker to the receptacle? (12/2? 12/3?)
What kind of receptacle should I buy?
I assume, based on the receptacle it should be fairly obvious which type of C13 power cord I will need.

Thanks!

Edit: forgot to mention, I'm in the USA.
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September 24, 2017, 05:34:00 AM
Last edit: January 03, 2019, 12:43:16 AM by frodocooper
 #2

Hey there,

One thing to think about is what your total plans for the circuit are, as you mentioned maybe needing 2 receptacles. Depending on the types of Miners you plan on running you may use up those 20 amps rather quickly. If you find 20 amps is sufficient, I'm pretty sure you just need 12/2 from the panel to the receptacle, plus the ground. With any wiring though you should definitely consult your local codes sometimes they require you to go above and beyond. If you are planning on running a few miners off this same circuit you will likely find yourself upgrading to a 30 amps.
I was running an s4+ and this is similar to the male end I used, with the matching receptacle for my 20 amp circuit. You can pretty much find any cable combination with the ends that you need.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand-Pass-and-Seymour-20-Amp-250-Volt-Plug-PS5466XCCV4/202664478


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noscams
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September 24, 2017, 06:13:11 AM
 #3

220V PSU in the US? I thought you guys have 110V over there. Why not buy a 110V PSU? They are cheap anyway, and come in all sort of power ranges. Check for some old 2nd hand ones if money is tight.
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September 24, 2017, 03:57:10 PM
Last edit: January 03, 2019, 12:43:49 AM by frodocooper
 #4

Power in the USA is commonly distributed to houses and small businesses as a 220 volt "split phase" aka 220 volt Center Tapped feed,

 This is mostly split down to 110 volt outlets, with a few 220 volt circuits used for higher-power stuff like electric hot water heaters, electric driers, high-capacity "mechanical" air conditioner units, electric ranges, some electric heating, and some "workshop" outlets for stuff like welders.

 For US wiring, 12/2 (20 amp) or 10/2 (30 amp) with ground with one or more NEMA 6 outlets are the standard on dedicated 220 volt circuits (commonly one outlet as these lines are generally intended for HIGH power usage items but there is no reason you can't wire 2 or more outlets to a single circuit).
 For US wiring where both 110 and 220 is needed (many electric driers and ranges use 110 for their "timer/clock" type circuitry) a NEMA 10 outlet and the use of AT LEAST 12/3 (10/3 up to 6/3 on higher power circuits as needed for the current capacity) with ground wiring is the norm.

 Specific to OP - 12/2 with ground is acceptable per the NEC for use on a 20-amp 220 circuit, no matter how many outlets you put on it.

 The "Pass and Seymour" plug listed by Steamtyme is a standard NEMA 6-20P design.

 Quite a few companies make molded cables with a NEMA 6 plug on one end and a C13 on the other end.
 A 6-15 plug will plug into a 6-15 OR a 6-20 outlet, a 6-20 plug is designed to only plug into a 6-20 outlet.

 If you are not an electrician, I DO recommend having an electrician do the wiring.

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jonlorusso (OP)
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September 24, 2017, 04:11:32 PM
Last edit: January 03, 2019, 12:44:07 AM by frodocooper
 #5

I'll be running two 741s on the circuit. At 240v I estimate they should pull about 5A apiece? I don't have any plans to expand beyond this at the moment, but I guess it's not out of the question and it probably wouldn't cost a whole lot more at this point to assume I will expand (as opposed to the cost and labor replacing down the road).  I am considering the PDU route I've seen mentioned elsewhere. I am just not sure it's worth the expense?
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September 24, 2017, 04:59:55 PM
 #6

PDU route is much cleaner and honestly easier...

I run 10 gauge THHN in non-metallic PVC conduit on a 30 amp breaker with a single NEMA L630R receptacle per circuit.  You can then connect a ~6kW PDU to the single outlet and power ~4 miners (220V @ 24A = 5,280W).

For most home setups you are going to have less than ~10 miners which means you really only need 2 circuits / 2 outlets. 

Just keep in mind that you really only should use 80% of what the circuit is rated for.  So if it's a 30A circuit, only use 24A.  Keeping in mind the capacity of the panel you're installing the breakers on as well.  If you're on a 100A main panel, you are only able to do about 3 circuits (i.e. 12 miners).

If you haven't done this before and aren't willing to invest a good bit of time in making sure it's done safely, you should hire an electrician.  It shouldn't be that expensive if you are close to the panel (< $500 per circuit, of which about $150-200 is materials).
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September 24, 2017, 07:53:19 PM
Last edit: January 03, 2019, 12:44:40 AM by frodocooper
 #7

here is what you should do

wait for links:

below is the way to go in your case.

https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=2192299.msg22020934#msg22020934

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jonlorusso (OP)
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September 26, 2017, 05:29:23 PM
Last edit: January 03, 2019, 12:44:58 AM by frodocooper
 #8

Thanks, Philip.  I ordered a PDU, and will  be setting everything up this weekend.  In the meantime, I've been told (by sidehack) that this 1200W PSU can be run on 120v, outputting 900w.  He said volt setting -2. Is this correct?

Thanks again!
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September 26, 2017, 07:01:52 PM
Last edit: January 03, 2019, 12:45:16 AM by frodocooper
 #9

yes and when you go to 220 volt you can bump to -1 or 0  

+1 is not too good on any psu

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September 26, 2017, 08:25:10 PM
Last edit: January 03, 2019, 12:45:37 AM by frodocooper
 #10

PDU route is easier, safer, usually less expensive, and cleaner if you aren't a trained electrician and would have to hire one to do your wiring work.

 For me, the "wire a subpanel" route is enough less cost that it's my go-to option, but I *AM* a one-time Journeyman and one-time certified Electrician (and keep up on changes to the NEC for this sort of stuff - not that there have been many).

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