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Author Topic: What PSU should I buy?  (Read 2173 times)
slippyrocks
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August 02, 2011, 02:50:01 AM
 #21

Use calc http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp

Input CPU and Video Cards only, recommended is what your will need 12v.

Using HD 5870 shows 570 watts are needed for three.

Recommended that 12v output on PSU label closely matches model number and what calc. gave needed.

Open air or case with PSU in the bottom are best for mining.

GOLD rating will probably not pay off and SILVER will only pay off if you get a great deal.

Can usually gauge a power supply by warranties ie. one , three <==minimum, five, or seven years.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703027

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341049

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371031 (they had these for $40)

Newegg is high priced unless there is a sale, sometimes higher rated psu is cheaper, and watch the shipping.

There are other stores on the web you know a google, bing search, buy.com, walmart.com,

amazon.com can be used for shopping.

And not enough PCIe power use Molex => PCIe Power Adapters included in card boxes.



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bcpokey
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August 02, 2011, 02:53:24 AM
 #22

Wow. Literally every suggestion in here has been wrong. 900watts for 3x 5850s? lolz. Only run your PSU at 50%?  Roll Eyes

Here's a real rule of thumb: Get a quality PSU and run it up to 100% of its rated continuous power output.


Are you on drugs???

No, are you?

Long long post. I don't really want to address every point. I already stated that one can go with a 750 if one feels the need to play it safe. What I said was that suggesting a 900 watt PSU was retarded. There is absolutely no way to draw anywhere near that level of power with 3x5850s, unless maybe you have a full time DICE cooling a super high level OC.

While I agree fully that there's no way for 3x5850 to draw up to 900W, saying it's retarded is not true.

I guess the problem here is that we have very different definition of safe. Your definition of safe includes running a PSU at 100% load 24/7 and "paranoid safe" is just running at 80% load. For some of us, "safe" includes margins for thermal derate, degradation from deterioration over time and safety margins for load spikes. While 3% different in efficiency might seem insignificant, but when you're running high power 24/7, 3% will add up to a lot. In some places, that would pay for the difference between a 750W and a 900W in less than 12 months. That is the difference between running a PSU at 50% and at 80~100%.

Quote
Suggesting that someone throw money away for no reason is not really good advice. If you've deployed literally thousands of systems, one would expect you to know that. Are you going to take responsibility for someone throwing money into the gutter? Stupid question.

You see the difference is that you are telling them to do something risky without any caveats, in a way that makes it sound like your recommendation is the only way.

I take full responsibility for my comment because I lay out the lower and higher bound, stating why (general safety and optimal efficiency) and leave the decision of which way to go to the person. I didn't tell him "The rest of them are all idiots, just buy a 1200W, or a 1000W if you're a cheapskate!" Wink



Alright, fair enough. although the riskiness of what I am suggesting is still overblown a bit. I have both calculated and empirical data on the general usage of a normal mining rig utilizing what he requested. I gave specific examples of exact make and model PSUs that are well known to be overdesigned to ensure clean and stable power at and above their rated power levels. Even after a few years (the general time-frame where the largest amount of degradation occurs) of relatively intensive usage, the bare specs, and "safe" suggestion will be fine. Now admittedly I didn't layout the case where the OP runs a full water loop with chiller in reservoir and extreme overvolts to murder gpus as fast as humanly possible, but I expect that in that case they might mention something like that. If not, well, caveat emptor, I don't live to warn everyone of every contingency life might possibly envision. Two standard deviations is enough for me.

Use calc http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp

GOLD rating will probably not pay off and SILVER will only pay off if you get a great deal.


although that is probably the best PSU calculator around, it is still flawed, and I wouldn't really use it to gauge my needs. I also disagree with your statement that gold rating will not pay off. Here is a simple example:

Say you have 3 PSUs, one is Gold, one is Silver, one is Bronze. Since we're building a beefy system lets say that they're running at 50% load for a 850Watt PSU, or drawing 425Watts.

The draw from the wall for each is --
Gold: 472.22Watts
Silver: 482.95Watts (+10.73Watts from gold)
Bronze: 500Watts (+27.78Watts from gold)

Over the course of 1 year, running a 24/7 mining load, assuming 11¢/kWh that turns out to be $26.77 difference between gold and bronze. Higher loads yield even higher savings (double the load is a little more than double the savings). Unless you don't plan on using the PSU very long, or your power is very very cheap, or you find a very cheap bargain PSU, gold rated PSUs will pay for themselves in savings over a bronze rated one most often in mining.
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August 02, 2011, 03:03:40 AM
 #23

I would recommend a Corsair 850 PSU.  I am running 3 HD5850's and an HD5870 on my Corsair 850 without any problems at all.  Its a very solid PSU.

Amazon has them for about 134 bucks!  Heres a link:  http://amzn.to/o0VCiO
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August 02, 2011, 03:47:58 AM
 #24

Quote from: bcpokey
Alright, fair enough. although the riskiness of what I am suggesting is still overblown a bit. I have both calculated and empirical data on the general usage of a normal mining rig utilizing what he requested. I gave specific examples of exact make and model PSUs that are well known to be overdesigned to ensure clean and stable power at and above their rated power levels. Even after a few years (the general time-frame where the largest amount of degradation occurs) of relatively intensive usage, the bare specs, and "safe" suggestion will be fine. Now admittedly I didn't layout the case where the OP runs a full water loop with chiller in reservoir and extreme overvolts to murder gpus as fast as humanly possible, but I expect that in that case they might mention something like that. If not, well, caveat emptor, I don't live to warn everyone of every contingency life might possibly envision. Two standard deviations is enough for me.
Just buy a quality brand with a warranty (design life) for the time frame you will be using it.
A quality brand will output it's fully rated power safely and shutdown safely when overloaded.
Use calc http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp
GOLD rating will probably not pay off and SILVER will only pay off if you get a great deal.
Quote from: bcpokey
although that is probably the best PSU calculator around, it is still flawed, and I wouldn't really use it to gauge my needs. I also disagree with your statement that gold rating will not pay off. .... $26.77 difference between gold and bronze. ....
Was dead on for my setup Intel i5-2500k and two hd 6950s @ 510 watts AC individual results may vary. Bronze 750w $70 Gold 750w $140; Considering most of that $26.77 will be heating your house in the Winter and power rate is cheaper the more power consumed it is going to be a long time to close that gap. $70 / $13 = 5.4 years at best.

Indianapolis Power & Light Company
One Monument Circle
Indianapolis, Indiana

Customer Charge
For bills of 0-325 KWH per month
$ 6.70 per month
For bills over 325 KWH per month
$11.00 per month

Energy Charge
Any part of the first 500 KWH per month
6.70c net per KWH
Over 500 KWH per month
4.40c net per KWH
With electric heating and/or water heating
over 1000 KWH per month
3.18c net per KWH <==========This is what you save not 11c
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August 02, 2011, 03:58:24 AM
 #25

Considering most of that $26.77 will be heating your house in the Winter and power rate is cheaper the more power consumed it is going to be a long time to close that gap. $70 / $13 = 5.4 years at best.

Indianapolis Power & Light Company
One Monument Circle
Indianapolis, Indiana


Must be nice where it's cheaper to use more power. Sadly, some of us pay more as we move up the usage tier. Sad

Is it the same throughout the US like where ever bitmofo and bcpokey are (making the assumption they are Americans), or just Indianapolis?

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August 02, 2011, 05:12:49 PM
 #26

Agreed, go gold and 1000-1200W range, you want optimal efficiency, which is around 50% load. Gold tends to last better, get better RMA service as well.

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August 03, 2011, 01:05:30 PM
 #27

Agreed, go gold and 1000-1200W range, you want optimal efficiency, which is around 50% load. Gold tends to last better, get better RMA service as well.
Also buy a spare PSU for all your rig, be safe and minimize downtime.
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