GRIDSEED G-BLADE Overclocking 7Mh/s, improvements and repair

[gades]

On-board microcontroller burned STM32F103RCT6, and behind him and a voltage 5V to 3.3V. After dismantling stabilizer defined fault on the board.



1. Place stabilizer;
2. Search faults using thermal paper;

https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=664905.msg

Could you elaborate...?

BTW, thermal paper is a great idea...

ZiG

I burned down converter 8805 (5v to 3,3 v) due to short circuit in the chip ARM. Short circuit determined using a cash receipt (thermal paper) filing with 3,3 V power supply (necessary to limit current). To do this, use two batteries 1,5 V and pressing the paper can be found a short circuit. Today rewire the chip and write firmware.

[pws328]

I'm not sure a reset will put it alive, but at least, it won't hurt.

You can also check voltage on the AME8805 converter that powers the stm103 chip.
I'll upload a pic with the test points and what you should read.
No need to power the blade except with the USB plug.

Thanks for the suggestion! Pics of that part and the test info would be really helpful.

Unfortunately pressing the button didn't kickstart the blade into action, so I'm guessing it's a component issue. 

[wolfey2014]

AAhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh HAHHHHHHHHHHHHH! 

[powersup]

I'm not sure a reset will put it alive, but at least, it won't hurt.

You can also check voltage on the AME8805 converter that powers the stm103 chip.
I'll upload a pic with the test points and what you should read.
No need to power the blade except with the USB plug.

Thanks for the suggestion! Pics of that part and the test info would be really helpful.

Unfortunately pressing the button didn't kickstart the blade into action, so I'm guessing it's a component issue. 

Just a warning. pressing the the reset button can corrupt the ARM firmware as i learnt first hand with a couple of PODs.

[pws328]

I'm not sure a reset will put it alive, but at least, it won't hurt.

You can also check voltage on the AME8805 converter that powers the stm103 chip.
I'll upload a pic with the test points and what you should read.
No need to power the blade except with the USB plug.

Thanks for the suggestion! Pics of that part and the test info would be really helpful.

Unfortunately pressing the button didn't kickstart the blade into action, so I'm guessing it's a component issue. 

Just a warning. pressing the the reset button can corrupt the ARM firmware as i learnt first hand with a couple of PODs.

Ah good to know. Good thing I didn't try it on the working blade!

[styson]

My one blade died, thought it was the upper fet which I replaced, but now when I connect the power supply I hear a buzzing noise from the power connector and the power supply goes off, have checked the boards for shorts and nothing I can spot, any idea's ?

[J4bberwock]

My one blade died, thought it was the upper fet which I replaced, but now when I connect the power supply I hear a buzzing noise from the power connector and the power supply goes off, have checked the boards for shorts and nothing I can spot, any idea's ?

maybe the 16v 220uf Capacitor.
I suppose you also replaced the ferrites/0 ohm resistors that burned with the upper gate mosfet.
There are very few components between the power plug and the mosfets, so they are easy to track:
Plug -> ferrites -> capacitors -> mosfets

You can check the 8 chips schematics on github for some help. It's almost the same as what we have on the blade.

I posted a few test points you can check in this thread. It can help finding the origin of the trouble.

[J4bberwock]

I'm not sure a reset will put it alive, but at least, it won't hurt.

You can also check voltage on the AME8805 converter that powers the stm103 chip.
I'll upload a pic with the test points and what you should read.
No need to power the blade except with the USB plug.

Thanks for the suggestion! Pics of that part and the test info would be really helpful.

Unfortunately pressing the button didn't kickstart the blade into action, so I'm guessing it's a component issue.  

here is the picture with what you should measure.

You simply need to plug the USB, nothing else


you can use any ground point on the board. the easier one to use is this one. square pad in the connector.

[rc0cl]

J4bberwock,

Can you please confirm if the REGULATED voltage rails on the blades are just 5V and 3.3V ONLY?

I have not seen any other mentioned voltages; other than 5V and 3.3V.

What I like to do is to jumper in an ATX PSU and be done with all that volt-modding.

1. remove any on-board regulation, i.e. remove any in-series components.

2. Solder in screw-in terminals after the components


Do you think that would work?

[ZiG]

J4bberwock,

Can you please confirm if the REGULATED voltage rails on the blades are just 5V and 3.3V ONLY?

I have not seen any other mentioned voltages; other than 5V and 3.3V.

What I like to do is to jumper in an ATX PSU and be done with all that volt-modding.

1. remove any on-board regulation, i.e. remove any in-series components.

2. Solder in screw-in terminals after the components


Do you think that would work?

ASIC chips voltage is 1.2V at stock...60-80A ...

Voltmod is rising it to 1.35 to 1.75V ...

Check the schematics first...then re-evaluate your "idea(s)"...

ZiG

[styson]

My one blade died, thought it was the upper fet which I replaced, but now when I connect the power supply I hear a buzzing noise from the power connector and the power supply goes off, have checked the boards for shorts and nothing I can spot, any idea's ?

maybe the 16v 220uf Capacitor.
I suppose you also replaced the ferrites/0 ohm resistors that burned with the upper gate mosfet.
There are very few components between the power plug and the mosfets, so they are easy to track:
Plug -> ferrites -> capacitors -> mosfets

You can check the 8 chips schematics on github for some help. It's almost the same as what we have on the blade.

I posted a few test points you can check in this thread. It can help finding the origin of the trouble.

Was a dogdy FET I replaced with, power now works, but looks like the Micro controller is fried now, does anyone have the firmware for the STM32F103RCT6 ?

Could also be that regulator that you guys are talking about, will have to check that tonight.

[J4bberwock]

J4bberwock,

Can you please confirm if the REGULATED voltage rails on the blades are just 5V and 3.3V ONLY?

I have not seen any other mentioned voltages; other than 5V and 3.3V.

What I like to do is to jumper in an ATX PSU and be done with all that volt-modding.

1. remove any on-board regulation, i.e. remove any in-series components.

2. Solder in screw-in terminals after the components


Do you think that would work?

ASIC chips voltage is 1.2V at stock...60-80A ...

Voltmod is rising it to 1.35 to 1.75V ...

Check the schematics first...then re-evaluate your "idea(s)"...

ZiG

Couldn't have said it better.
You could bypass the 3.3 and 5v regulation, but you still need something for the 1.2-1.75v with high amps.

[pws328]

here is the picture with what you should measure.

You simply need to plug the USB, nothing else


you can use any ground point on the board. the easier one to use is this one. square pad in the connector.

Thanks J4bberwock! I tested the chip as described, and on the non-working blade I do get 5V on the input, but no 3.3V on the output. Just a 0v read.

The working blade shows the correct 5V input and 3.3V output.

I'm assuming this means that the AME8805 is fried. I'm certainly no good at SMD soldering, but do you think I could have this replaced by a pro? Could this failure have caused damage to any of the other components?

Thanks for any other info. Hopefully I can get half my money back from the seller.

[J4bberwock]

here is the picture with what you should measure.

You simply need to plug the USB, nothing else


you can use any ground point on the board. the easier one to use is this one. square pad in the connector.

Thanks J4bberwock! I tested the chip as described, and on the non-working blade I do get 5V on the input, but no 3.3V on the output. Just a 0v read.

The working blade shows the correct 5V input and 3.3V output.

I'm assuming this means that the AME8805 is fried. I'm certainly no good at SMD soldering, but do you think I could have this replaced by a pro? Could this failure have caused damage to any of the other components?

Thanks for any other info. Hopefully I can get half my money back from the seller.

This is a "big" smd part, so even with a fine tip iron, you can easily replace it.
The harder thing will probably be to remoove the failed one.

AME8805AEFT (the AEFT thing tells the output voltage and package, so it needs to be AEFT) can be ordered from aliexpress/alibaba, hard to find for me in usual shops.
datasheet:
http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/ame/ame8805.pdf

It could be replaced with the following pin to pin compatible, but not tested (it took some time to dig them out)
some of them are available from mouser

AP7215-33YG-13
AP1115BY33
AX1113BF
AX6647-33-E
AX6647-33-F

When ordering, check that these are SOT89 package with the following pinout:

pin 1 is ground
pin 2 is the input (center tab) +5V
pin 3 is the output +3.3v

[styson]

Definitely the AME8808 that has blown on my board, going to order some AP1115BY33-13 this week and see if they work, have checked the datasheet and definitely are pin for pin compatible.

[Blisk]

This is a "big" smd part, so even with a fine tip iron, you can easily replace it.
The harder thing will probably be to remoove the failed one.

AME8805AEFT (the AEFT thing tells the output voltage and package, so it needs to be AEFT) can be ordered from aliexpress/alibaba, hard to find for me in usual shops.
datasheet:
http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/ame/ame8805.pdf

It could be replaced with the following pin to pin compatible, but not tested (it took some time to dig them out)
some of them are available from mouser

AP7215-33YG-13
AP1115BY33
AX1113BF
AX6647-33-E
AX6647-33-F

When ordering, check that these are SOT89 package with the following pinout:

pin 1 is ground
pin 2 is the input (center tab) +5V
pin 3 is the output +3.3v

Did you test those TO220 does it work?

[styson]

here is the picture with what you should measure.

You simply need to plug the USB, nothing else


you can use any ground point on the board. the easier one to use is this one. square pad in the connector.

Thanks J4bberwock! I tested the chip as described, and on the non-working blade I do get 5V on the input, but no 3.3V on the output. Just a 0v read.

The working blade shows the correct 5V input and 3.3V output.

I'm assuming this means that the AME8805 is fried. I'm certainly no good at SMD soldering, but do you think I could have this replaced by a pro? Could this failure have caused damage to any of the other components?

Thanks for any other info. Hopefully I can get half my money back from the seller.

Just make sure that you use a high enough wattage soldering iron and be careful not to force the AME8805 off the board or you can rip the tracks up, best way to do this kind of work is with a hot air station, most cellular phone repair people have them and they can replace the part for you in 5 minutes.

[pws328]

This is a "big" smd part, so even with a fine tip iron, you can easily replace it.
The harder thing will probably be to remoove the failed one.

AME8805AEFT (the AEFT thing tells the output voltage and package, so it needs to be AEFT) can be ordered from aliexpress/alibaba, hard to find for me in usual shops.
datasheet:
http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/ame/ame8805.pdf

It could be replaced with the following pin to pin compatible, but not tested (it took some time to dig them out)
some of them are available from mouser

AP7215-33YG-13
AP1115BY33
AX1113BF
AX6647-33-E
AX6647-33-F

When ordering, check that these are SOT89 package with the following pinout:

pin 1 is ground
pin 2 is the input (center tab) +5V
pin 3 is the output +3.3v

Thanks for the infor J4bber, really appreciate the part comparison. I went ahead and ordered a few AP7215-33YG-13 from Mouser, and for the hell of it I ordered 50x AME8805AEFT from Utsource (couldn't pass up a good deal!).

Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately) the seller decided to give me a refund on the blade if I ship it back to him, so I now no longer need these chips. Oh well, at least if someone else needs them, I'll have stock in the US in a few weeks.

Thanks again for the help, and if anyone needs any AME8805AEFT's in the US, shoot me a PM.

[Freeman2000yes]

Hello guys,

I need urgently some help from anyone,

One of my Gblades ( overclocked with Vmode 39K Resistor) , burned up instantly , after it works fine for some days at 950 Mhz .
It cause a short circuit and my powersource goes down when i try to replug the Gblade.
My powered Usb hub was broken too, after the fault .
When i opened the case i saw that the AFB26 directly on the right side of the USB Plug was burned down, the half of them was burned down.
The problem is that I have no idea what kind of part this is , a resistor ? diode?
Maybe with a stroke of luck this is the only broken part and if i replace this , maybe it works again. I think my Gblade send some overvoltage through the usb port because my hub is dead too, or mybe the Hub was faulty ....
It would be nice if someone can tell me what kind of part the AFB26 is...
Did anyone have the same issue?

Thank you in advance and sorry for my bad english.

[Freeman2000yes]

I´ve checked some measure points with the excellent guides from this thread and find you that not only the afb26 was burned...
On one PCB the AU5 VR is dead , Input from USB is 5 Volt but on V OUT there are only 1,2 Volt , so i think this can be the cause , why the PCB seems to work when 12 V is pluged in ( The Chips get warm and all the other VR works fine) but only a unknow device appear when plug in to the computer.
On the another PCB the upper Mosfet seem to be broken , there are something about 50Ohm between the measure points and this thing named AFB26 near by the USB Plug is exploded.
On the first PCB the afb26 is only a little bit melted , but it seems to work, with unplugged board it has a 0.8 kOhm resistance , when the board is pluged in , the resistance goes down an fluctuate from 0-600 Ohm. May this can be a NTC Thermistor or a Varistor???
I ordered now some parts from Mouser , like the mosfets and some 0 Ohm Resistors and the broken VR AU5 or A8805 and also some NTC Thermistors for the AFB26 , but I am not sure if this was really a NTC.
Is there any posibilty to find out what kind of part this is? Maybe from a working PCB? I think its possible that figures like a fuse or something like that so a NTC make sense. But i´m not sure if is possible to replace that part with a 0 OHM resistor?
Or I´m compleatly wrong?

Thanks.