Bitcoin Forum

I've posted a picture of my miner while it's mods were still in testing & development here: https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=7216.msg11340538#msg11340538 (https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=7216.msg11340538#msg11340538)

I didn't want to go into details until I got everything done and tested.

I've tried several things with the miner to find the best solution for my case. The problem with S5 is that it has quite a bad cooling solution. A lot of air runs out of the heatsink cold or doesn't even go into it, so Bitmain compensates that with a lot of CFM and a lot of noise.
The fan that comes with the miner seems to be the Delta 120 x 25mm Extreme High-Speed Fan (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7759/fan-471/Delta_120_x_25mm_Extreme_High-Speed_Fan_-_15033_CFM_FFB1212EH_Bare_Wire.html?tl=g36c435s1106#blank), or an exact copy of it.

Before I even got the miner I searched for the best CFM vs. sound ratio fan and what I found was Scythe Ultra Kaze (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21912/fan-378/Scythe_Ultra_Kaze_120mm_x_38mm_Fan_-_3000RPM_DFS123812H-3000.html), which I'm now using on both of my miners. Push configuration is enough when it's not too hot in the ambient (up to 35°C), push-pull when it's hot, to still be able to run miners overclocked.

I'm from Croatia and it tends to get really hot in the summer, so I had to get the miner temperature vs. ambient temperature difference as low as I could.

To do so I've:

• Repasted the miner with a much better termal paste,
• Added mini heatsinks on the external side of the hashboards with adhesive termal paste (to the first miner only, as second came with them),
• Closed the miner's heatsink with 3D printed plates so no air can run out on the top or bottom sides,
• Added fan ducts between fans and miners which direct most of the air through the main heatsink and blow just a little bit of air to external heatsinks, just to drive some airflow on the sides.

One of the Bitmain's design flaws worth mentioning is the fact that thermal sensors for the hash boards are on the outer side (instead of heatsink side) and are very sensitive to airflow. When using fan ducts that completely block off the side airflow and direct all of the airflow through the miner, I was getting the actual temperatures, which were 20°C higher than regularly displayed. That's why Bitmain recommends that you keep your miner under 60°C even though the safety limit is 80°C. When reaching 80°C with stock fan, I'm quite certain the chips at the end of the heatsink are >100°C.

Here's the miner I'll be modifying for this thread:
http://www.pohrani.com/f/3o/oX/Ky40HfS/01.jpg

The first thing I did was repasting the chips, which wasn't too hard, just dull. Just unscrewed every screw the miner has and carefully separated the hash board from the heatsink. I've cleaned the heatsink and the chips with paper towel. Here's the chips before and after. I didn't care much about the paste on the sides.
http://www.pohrani.com/f/1q/4T/4oPq40nG/1/02.jpg

I've put the new paste on and screwed the thing back together.

The next thing I added were the bottom plates. I've used the M3 x 10mm screws to screw them to the bottom. For some reason, this miner's heatsink's screw holes are so shallow I had to use nuts to tightly hold the plastic.
http://www.pohrani.com/f/2G/13F/2IMbltls/03.jpg

The bottom plates are flat on one side, but feature a bulge on the other side, to prevent air running in the gap between them and the heatsink. Here's what it looks like on both of my miners, when one of 2 plates is removed. Wherever I felt cold air coming out of the miner I've tried my best to close that part off and force the most air through the main heatsink.
http://www.pohrani.com/f/h/4u/ieyKXBU/17.jpg

Then come the top covers. These covers were a bit difficult to design as they also have to replace the metal plate which holds the main board. Here it is on the miner:
http://www.pohrani.com/f/3h/v6/4OBRtnGf/05.jpg

This way air is forced through the whole heatsink before allowed to go out, allowing you to use lower CFM fan and achieve the same temperatures.

Here are both of my miners with the main boards screwed onto the top plates. The screws screw in into the plastic perfectly. I prefer having my ethernet cable running out of the miner at the top. It's also easier to see status lights and ethernet activity. It is just as easy to have it all on the bottom.
http://www.pohrani.com/f/w/D1/2R4Niqjv/06.jpg


Now we're going to have a look at fan ducts and legs that hold the miner vertically. Legs took me some time to get the height properly so that the fan can take in enough air.
http://www.pohrani.com/f/47/VE/lGbxdUF/14.jpg

Legs are not necessary and your miners can be horizontal, if you wish. I was following the natural motion of the hot air so I prefer having them vertical. The legs are designed to match the Scythe Ultra Kaze fan's housing and they can be screwed onto it with the screws that come with the fan. Gluing them on is also an option if you don't plan to take them off.
Leg, screw and the fan are shown in the picture:
http://www.pohrani.com/f/1u/gz/4w8FzGYO/12.jpg

On the top image you can also see how I screwed in the fan to the miner, having the fan duct stuck in the middle. I've deliberately used these screws because, as you can see on the following image, I don't have to take the legs off if I want to unscrew the fan to clean the dust. Screws are screwed in by hand and then just tightened a little bit with the tool on the picture:
http://www.pohrani.com/f/1m/r9/j9UpoaM/13.jpg
Screws are M4x40mm.

This is the bottom fan duct:
http://www.pohrani.com/f/r/bn/1THljCgs/15.jpg

It is designed to force the most air into the main heatsink, with little gaps letting the air through to side heatsinks and thermistors. The only reason for this is to force the air to move around external heatsinks and affect the thermistor. If there were no gaps at all, the temperature readout would equal pretty close to ASIC's core temperature. The fan duct perfectly fits the miner on one side and a 120mm fan on the other.
http://www.pohrani.com/f/2d/ig/37MxWcUI/16.jpg

I have also replaced the default screws that hold the miner's front side to heatsink. They were sticking out too much and fan duct would have 2mm gap from the miner. I've used some flat top M3x5mm screws I got from China a while back.

The top fan duct is different, featuring no side gaps:
http://www.pohrani.com/f/22/oE/4dDH479U/09.jpg

It also perfectly fits the miner.
http://www.pohrani.com/f/1V/13A/1PYuZnuD/10.jpg

The fan screws on top just as easy as it is with the bottom duct:
http://www.pohrani.com/f/3K/Hk/45VN3smK/11.jpg


Since the screws are 40mm and fans are ~30mm thick, getting them in so that they would not fall too short when the fan duct is in between is important. You want the screws to be positioned like this:
http://www.pohrani.com/f/3F/ru/tvWUFvX/01.jpg

To do so, put the screw you're adding like this:
http://www.pohrani.com/f/2x/N7/nMhpvui/02.jpg

Take your screwdriver and start screwing it in. The plastic will be dragging it in as you're screwing.
http://www.pohrani.com/f/41/9Q/4yi79XqT/03.jpg

In the end it will just fall in.
http://www.pohrani.com/f/3c/cg/2t6rfdZa/04.jpg

You will probably damage a tiny bit of plastic, but not enough to void warranty or anything like that. I had one of the fans going back under warranty because of excessive vibration. Got a new one back without a problem.

The end result is something like this:
http://www.pohrani.com/f/7/10x/4V3Rcu04/result.jpg

My PSU of choice is the Super Flower Leadex Titanium 1600W, because of it's extremely high efficiency.

Here are the results for both of the miners after running for 24h at 400MHz, ambient temperature was ~25°C during the night and maxed around ~35°C during the day.
The older miner with bigger gap between heatsinks and custom external heatsinks:
http://www.pohrani.com/f/3r/Mk/1cPJ9Z27/24h-400mhz-black.png

The newer (green plastic) miner:
http://www.pohrani.com/f/26/cZ/4tSzdgfu/24h-400mhz-green.png

Very, very low number of hardware errors, so I'm calling this a success and am planning to keep them running like this, as ambient temperatures will probably reach 40°C during the day sooner rather than later.

Here you can download all of the STLs for the 3D printed parts: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/22363327/S5%203D%20printed%20mods.7z
If you want to tip me for the designs, here's my address: 1F7itYL4vDh4BfHy8m4KnVx1UqgS462Ej6

You may use my designs for your own miners, please do post photos if you mod some!
If you have any questions, do not hesitate.

I can only say BRAVO! Excellent job! Could you plug them like that and give us some data temp, hash etc. Great work!

Really need more info :o

looking good! and sexy! ;D

what is the temperature difference between duct and no duct(using same fan)?

Very nice job.  I am a big fan of your 3d work.  It just keeps looking better and more clean.

Thank you for sharing!

Ant S5 Fan detail

https://www.dropbox.com/s/aim82slrysn97w2/S5.png?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/aim82slrysn97w2/S5.png?dl=0)

this is REALLY awesome work, and good for you for supplying these designs. I will print them out and test it on my S5 tomorrow. How did you attached the legs to the fan and fan to miner? I dont see a screw going in between them.

Out of curiosity what is time and cost to do this?  It is very very nice.

Also can I ask what 3d printer do you use for this?  And kudos for releasing designs that is above and beyond.

Wow! Thanks man. This is jsut perfect.

My printer is already printing them.  ;D

wow such a good looking miner..
how much temp difference using this mod?

Fantastic! Wondrous effort and very well done. I really I'm interested in the printed mods ..... and if possible an estimate as to cost.

With regard to the bottom cover, would a simple ridge at the intake end suffice rather than having the ridge all along the length of the cover? I assume that despite having underspecified the fans there is is still adequate air pressure to keep the stream flowing ....

I wonder what the result would be, hash wise & HW error-wise, to run the stock S5 fan, rather than your replacement ones (on original firmware) at an OC freq, say 412. I say this because I managed to drastically reduce the HW % out of an OC'ed S3 @freq 281, running a stock S5 fan in pull configuration at full pelt, aka no PWM. (PS. that also showed up my 550W PSU and had to switch to a 750W one!)

This is brilliant! Well done!

Very nice work with the air ducting, I bet that's a huge difference.  I have an S1 and S3, plan on getting an S5, and I've noticed how much cool air comes out the bottom of the S1, vs the enclosed design of the S3.

Any plans to sell the top and bottom pieces?  I bet people would buy them.

Same here,

How much does it really change?

On my machine it is going to cost

top: 23
bottom: 34


All in ABS

quite pricey, I also think the top adds more than the bottom...

I assume that the costs you came up with are for "3D printed" copies? I can't imagine that if Bitmain had ordered mass production versions it would be more than 10$ for the pair. Or is ABS plastic really that expensive?

this is pretty expensive.
I can print many of them on 1 roll of materiel. (that's 40$)
So I will check how many time it take. I will probably do a bundle.  ;)

I would love to see a bundle price.  It looks pretty amazing on this.  One thing we might consider is a small donation to OP on each sale no matter who sales to support releasing 3d print schematics.

What printer are you guys using?

Im using a prusa I3. I will for sure give a part of all sale to the OP.
Will let you know when I have a full kit. How many time it take and how much materiel I taked.

Excellent job, thanx! But it would be great if you design some stubs which will prevent air to blow away in all directions from the gaps between PCBs of the blades and plastic side panels. More directed airflow will make blades cooler. The bottom plate can be easily reworked for this purpose, it should be just about 20 mm wider from each long side, right?

Also for top and bottom plates - I believe you can put some voids in it to reduce the consumption of the material while the shape of the side faced to heatsinks will remain the same. Please sorry for my English.  ::)

I need 3d printer now... For free...  ::)

p.s. where is "Fan duct - Top.stl" on that photos? Is it for cooling S5 with 2 fans?

If everyone that sales gives a little bit to OP this could lead into a really awesome forum thread.  If there is lot's of custom 3d printed parts for mining that make improvements. 

I see this as a possible start of something really big.   Would be amazing to go here point to a file we want printed for out miners and pay someone with ability to do it.

Totally, this could turn into something really cool, and bitcoin is the perfect way to pay for it all. :)

Sorry for not doing the second part yesterday. Business dinner popped in and I couldn't do the post. But I plan to concentrate on fans, fan ducts and legs today after work. Before that, I'll try to answer the questions that came in after the first post. :)


Since my fan is 130 CFM and original fan is 230CFM, the difference is about 15°C. I don't have written data of when I ran the first test. The problem are the temperature sensors. Thanks to having no duct, temperature sensors are highly affected by side airflow and read about ~5°C higher temperature, even though you can clearly feel the stronger heat radiating off the hash boards. Would not recommend using lower CFM fans without fan ducts. You will definitely shorten the lifetime of your miner and you won't be fully aware of how hot it is.


I'll get into this later today. The legs are designed so that they fit into Scythe's fan's gaps perfectly, you can also use screws that come with the fan to tighten them, but the miner is stable without that as well.



The cost is rather low if you're printing with ABS. Every part can be printed 80% hollow inside (20% infill). One duct is about 36g which equals about $1 of PLA in my case.
My 3D printer is Rostock Mini Pro. Just large enough to print a 120mm fan duct in it.


Here are my stats after 7 hours of constant mining:

http://www.pohrani.com/f/1e/iW/1Jqovfj3/mine-black.jpg
http://www.pohrani.com/f/5/e5/4jz7lglA/miner-green.jpg

The new miner, which came with external heatsinks, has 5°C difference between hashboards. Still haven't found out why.

These are stats with only a push fan. Pull fan would lower temperatures by additional 5°C. I don't use it unless I'm looking at a really hot day or want to overclock miners to 425MHz.



Thank you!
With my push-pull configuration I can run up to 450 MHz without overheating. But I noticed a drastic performance loss at 450 MHz. 425 seemed optimal. The reason why I wouldn't use stock fan is because it is louder than 4 Scythe Ultra Kaze fans. I think I have a way of demonstrating this.
When you see HW errors popping up in larger number, you can be certain you have some chips above 80°C.


Material-wise these are not a problem to make. But the print time of one on my printer is about 5 hours. Should there be enough interest nothing stops us from making bulk order from a company that does plastic products through molding. Both top and bottom ducts as well as top and bottom plates are easy to mold.


Yes, the bottom plate can be reworked to cover the gaps, top would be more difficult, but instead I made the bottom duct to direct the airflow and it is working good this way. Enough just to move the air around the external heatsinks, as internal heatsinks have much higher efficiency and air going out is just a waste.

The top fan duct is not there in the photos. I assembled the miners with one fan to make them less noisy. I'll put the second ducts up today and photograph it all. For now here are 2 photos of the prototype I dug out on my phone:

http://www.pohrani.com/f/34/qp/O5kodBV/prototype01.jpg

http://www.pohrani.com/f/2u/u2/3jIkPlVD/prototype02.jpg

This was the first prototype I ever printed. It didn't exactly match the fan and had rather thick walls, but it perfectly "clicked" into the miner.


Here's what the miners look now, powered up and mining:

http://www.pohrani.com/f/32/w3/imiAAaE/07.jpg

This is the power draw (350MHz):

http://www.pohrani.com/f/3r/xu/882xsqd/08.jpg

Don't you think that at the top you can (and maybe should) use the same duct as at the bottom? In that case the top fan will make additional vacuum for airflow through little radiators from back side of the blades to be more directed.

That would reduce the vacuum done to the main heatsink, which is very important when miner is working in hot ambient, and would not affect the airflow on the side heatsinks. With the ducts as they currently are you can easily feel hot air moving on the sides. Which is enough. Giving it any more airflow by taking it from the main heatsink is just losing efficiency.

The more air blows strictly in direction from one fan to another - the more cooling efficiency, I guess. So if one fan pushes, and another pulls, then why should it lead to less efficient cooling?

I'm thinking here that this is as good a precursory discussion to a complete redesign of the S5 housing as any, and laser cut perspex comes to mind to complement the clearly superior 3D printed fan ducts.
Just a question regarding creation of a vacuum, would that be with the pull fan running a tad faster than the push fan? If so, by how much more, say for a 130 CFM, 4200 RPM fan (max)?

If people in USA are interested I can probably start printing a few of these out that don't have access to a 3D printer.

Let us know cost for the kit with shipping. I'm interested.

80023 zip.

Should have the price for next wednesday  ;D

The pull fan has effect in closed tubes where air meets resistance. You can, however, try using the same fan ducts on the top and bottom and measure differences. I'm expecting about 1°C higher temps with bottom fan duct also on the top.


The pull fan would need to be much stronger than the push fan, to get the same airflow on the side where push fan is. I have no idea how much stronger.

I had a setup with a lower CFM pull fan (Corsair SP120L), this also worked better than a version without a pull fan. 2 ultra Kaze's seem best. Heatsink's thermal conductivity is too low to feel much difference with higher CFM. Heatsink's leaves tend to get cold further from the solid part and hot only up to 1cm from it. Because of the good airflow the rest doesn't even manage to get hot. If they were thicker, that would be a different story.

So something like this (http://www.aliexpress.com/item-img/2pcs-lot-300mm-140mm-20mm-High-Power-Silver-Aluminum-Heat-Sink-With-High-Quality-On-Sale/32330074820.html) may be a good one .... leaves are just 2cm tall and if all the airflow is focused on them, then ..... (not sure about the thickness of the base / solid part though on these).

http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/32330074820/2pcs-lot-300mm-140mm-20mm-High-Power-Silver-Aluminum-Heat-Sink-With-High-Quality-On-Sale.jpg

Thickness does not matter for heat dissipation, just surface area(i.e. number of fins). Granted a thicker plate/fins will act like a bigger heat "buffer" so it could take more heat before it gets hot, but removing heat is only a function of airflow and the surface area of the metal (and a lot of other variables but we probably don't want to get into thermodynamics here).

You would most definitely fry out your S5 with the heat sink you linked, it probably has not even half he surface area of the stock heat sink.

What they should have done doubled the amount of fins with all that material they removed to make the heat sinks...since they could make the fins that thin they could probably have cut twice as many of them.

if someone from usa makes these i would be interested in a top and bottom plate set.. i dont need the legs or the fan extension.

It does matter if your fin is so thin that it dissipates more than it can conduct. If the heat is dissipated before it reaches the end of the fin - the fin is too thin. This, in result, also means the fin's total surface area isn't even fully utilized.

Btw, did anyone ever get the miner with heatsinks as pictured here?
https://www.bitmaintech.com/bm_tech_admin_at_123/userfiles/image/MAC_00504-s.jpg

yes the one i got looks like that.. the one OP has is the one with the s3 heatsinks.. i dunno if they are the first gen ones or if they ran out of s5 heatinks and took apart s3s to supply the newer ones.

So really, my untrained conclusion from that is that the best fin would be an inverted V shaped type (thin at the top) ... and with the mods above, you'd not need the fins to be as long as they on a stock S5.

That would be best for heat transfer, but V shape would give more space for the air to run through the part where fins are the thinnest. :)




P.S. I've updated the first post with missing details and photos.

Im printing these out for few people in the US once I get my 3d printer up and running again. Ill charge cost in material plus a few bucks for my time and shipping cost. It will probably end up being around 5 bucks a piece.

A full set of the will take around 20 hours to print btw and I need to print 4 sets for me plus two people already wanting them so turn around might be a week or more. I have to buy myself one of those new laser resin printers  ;D

(fyi "cheap" printing shops charge around $10 an hour to print, and were quoting me around 200 to print a set so i didn't have to wait for my printer to finish all of them, which is laughable)

If you do please share.  I would be blown away with one of the new resin printers.  Those are pretty amazing.

I think it might be better off with multiple PLA printer because of cost.  A tip for anyone looking for printers look into "make" community's in bigger cities normally.  There is a lot of printing gear with "makers" and they are normally very nice.   So that is one way possibly to get them printed.

i made a duct with Aluminium Foil Adhesive and glue to hot temps

i was doing some tests and i think the problem that the heat dont go to the heatsink and stays in the board.
A copper heatsink will solve the problem, may a copper pad with a large surface area do something.
i   will fit some heatsinks in the back off the board.

Great machine main is at 425mhz plus 1380gh

It is very amazing design. Please find Bitmain's 0.25BTC small tip:

https://blockchain.info/tx/99d00109d07cac9509649c594e396d27e1e317661af94eb628c6d28f1b1b0d05

Great to see Bitmain supporting this!  Seems like a promising future on these type of parts.   

Once again impressed with Bitmain :)  And still blown away with Vorta's designs.

Thank you very much for the tip, Bitmain!  :D

Thank you, nolist3d! :)

Wow nice Vorta! Congratz man! Hard work always paid back .  ;D

U dont happen to have a C1 do u?? If u could come up with something for it, I'll gladly pay u for it...

He as done amazing job.  And with the green really pop's and looks amazing.

What part are you thinking you need made for C1?

Here's a sound comparison of 2 different setups you can have with printed mods and a comparison with stock fan as well. Absolute loudness cannot be properly shown through video, but relative loudness of one setup compared to the other can easily be observed.

The video is here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBtvmuRuuHo


I don't have a C1, only 2 S5s. Since C1 is water cooled I don't see an improvement that could be made over that. Water cooling my S5s was one of the options I was considering prior to going into development presented mods.



I actually spent all of my black plastic and didn't want to wait for the delivey of another roll (hence the orange back plate on the other miner as well). ;D It did come out better than expected, but this green is of quite a weird tone. It looks different in every photo.

That stock fan literally sounds like a vacuum cleaner! lol

Got my printer all set up for these, here are a few first test prints:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8826/18367435756_2bc5c87688_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tZ4UJQ)


and were ready for mass production!

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8807/18395379721_f7c9b0aa8c_o.png (https://flic.kr/p/u2x8vk)

Printing my last sets that I need and should start shipping the sets people have contacted me about  by the end of the week! (takes about 12 hours to print a whole set).

how much for just the top and bottom plates. dont need the fan part or the legs.

verry amazing design & wow...you got support for bitmain
 :D

I was also playing around with a vertical design, but was placing it the other way with the fan being on the opposite side (as it comes stock).

What's the benefit of having the side with the ethernet jack face upwards with the fan on the bottom vs. the stock layout of the fan being on the side with the ethernet jack? I found the temperatures were cooler running it vertically with Ethernet side down.

If the airflow got up this is ok.
I guess vorta switch the side of the normal airflow of the fan  ;)

heat go up so just follow the natural flow!

Where do you get the screws for this?

Hardware store?

put this model in on shapeways.com just got half of the bottom plate tis $47 lol

are we a loud to use the stl files on public pay services to have them made if we don't try to sell it as ours which i won't do . stealing is bad and in the end no one gets any were .

This is really expensive to print from shapeways.com not worth the cost.

noticed some one told me to ask some one on the forums . id be better off after i did some more research, buying my own 3d printer in the long run, then let them do it shapeways.com or any the online services that offer it. So ill stick to member here or may be one day buy one at 400, that 400$ model  would suit my use, I remember, a few years back the 400 dollar one going for 5 k or more so i never bored or gave it a thought  ;D :D

but now it is temping there not expensive anymore.

With the stock miner, without the top and bottom plates closing it off, it is better to have the control board next to the push fan as it is preventing some volume of air from escaping the heatsink immediately, thus lowering the temperatures a little bit.

With the miner closed with plastic top and bottom plates it doesn't matter which side the control board is on. The only benefit is easily seeing if miner and internet are working properly, just by standing next to the miner. No need to crouch and look under.



First I ordered some from eBay, from Chinese suppliers, but then I found a screw store not far from me and got the rest there.



I would definitely not recommend printing the parts with industry-grade professional 3D printers. They will come out expensive and I have not tested their durability.

A RepRap PLA or ABS printer can do a perfect job with these. I will start printing one set of parts for the AntMiner to see how much time it will take me and put it on eBay later. Just got a delivery of 2kg black PLA filament.

Im doing the whole set for 35 + shipping. Just pays for material costs and few dollars for my time. Send me a PM if you want to be added to the list. Printer is printing full time now but I have about a weeks worth of parts to print and ship currently (takes about 12 hours to make a whole set).

i got my set today from jstefanop.
they look just like the OPs.. mine came black.
i was only able so far to put the top and bottom plates on as i coudlnt find the right size screws for the fans..

they fit perfectly.. the temp being reported by the miner didnt really change.. but i didnt expect it to. as i took out the blue wire for my fan so it runs at full speed and added a 2nd fan.. my s5 runs in the 48/50c range.
but, there was an unexpected change.. the s5 fans got quieter (you hear the air more then the whine now).. im thinking its because they have to try harder to push the air? or maybe its just the fact that not much air escapes the side and none now escapes the top?

i like it.. it should have been manufactured with them.

thanks again jstefanop

You can use original screws that came with the miner, just get them though your fan as described in the first post. If you can't get them through the fan, you need screws that are 40mm + fan depth/thickness. M4 thread.

i dont think the fan screws are long enough?

i guess i can take it apart and check.. but i figured they were too short to go through the fan and the fan shroud.
.

i got the front fan shroud on..
the temps went up a tad in the ui, but i think its because the fan shroud doesnt let as much air in sides..
one thing to note, the stock fan cord is not long enough to plug into the board with the fan shroud.. it was about 5mm too short.
i had my fan on a molex adapted so its ok.


the fan still appears to be quieter with this then with the top and bottom open.

If you got the screw through this way, it will be long enough:

http://www.pohrani.com/f/3c/cg/2t6rfdZa/04.jpg

This is not intended to be used with the stock fan, but it will work.
The temperature readout will be more accurate, thus a bit higher than before.

I sent a pm to get on the list if you guys are still printing these!!

Sent ya a PM...

Im pretty much caught up with everyone if people still want these printed for cheap let me know!

anyone know where to get those heatsinks from? the ones in the first picture that it came with?

you can get ones like them from ebay or amazon..
although i dont think they are needed or even help much.

Received a message from Denver Bitcoin Center Director Ben.  They have a few 3D Printers on site for the DBC Communities to use for the Dev purpose or for fun.  Another option for anyone who wants these great invention by the OP. (Price, please consult with the Denver Bitcoin Center)

https://denverbitcoincenter.com/
https://denverbitcoincenter.com/?page_id=19

Denver Bitcoin Center
747 Sheridan Blvd #5B
Lakewood, CO 80214
USA

Phone: 303-997-3110

e-mail: ben@denverbitcoincenter.com

*Also, if you are local to Denver Bitcoin Center, you can always drop off Bitmain Products for the warranty work or repair on the expired warranty units.

I haven't installed my set yet, but good to know that Denver Bitcoin is so close to home.

I'll have to stop by one of their "meetups" someday.

Rtt.

Printed off the 2 ducts and have them mounted with 2x Ultra Kaze's. Here's a comparison:

Old setup
Kaze Pull + Stock push + no ducts = ~53°

New setup
Kaze Pull + Kaze push + 2 ducts = 63° / 59° (there's a few degrees difference between both boards strangely..)

Are the above temps expected with my new setup? I was expecting a bit cooler, especially in this air conditioned environment.

It's possibly worth noting I don't have top or bottom plates due to printing difficulties.

Edit: temps have risen to 65° / 61° now  :(

Seems about right with Kaze. Try it with the stock fan and undervolt it a bit to reduce noise & power usage. I went back to using just the undervolted stock fan now and it uses less power, creates less noise, and cools better than 2xKaze. I go based off the temperature sensor though - the 2 fan layout would cool more evenly and might be cooling better than the sensor is reporting.

There, ma friend, lies the root to the rise in temps ..... try using simple card-board over the top and bottom (while you sort out the 3D printing) and you will see a drop in temps.

Should the cardboard on top sit just above the heatsink and not extend across to the sides? Or should I try to sit it on top of the PCB board, extending to the side panels?

Thanks

Fit it just like the mod is, linearly aligned with the fan ducts aka on top of the heat-sinks.  The idea of the mod is to get most air through the heatsinks rather than escaping through the sides and top.
I am assuming here that it is a temporary fix as card-board can be a fire hazard IF the the dreaded S5 overheat bug hits you.

Ok - so I've fit it pretty well I have to say. On top, its going from the very front, under the cpu/mobo, then all the way to the end. The bottom is similarly covered to the mod, without the bulge obviously.

Temps are 64° / 60°, so unfortunately it doesn't seem to have helped.

I live in a very hot country and during the day there's no A/C so room temp will be pretty warm, not sure if I'm comfortable leaving it running if I'm getting these temps in an AC'd room  :(

Maybe I could manage it remotely and underclock if it gets too hot?

Bear in mind that the mod REDUCES the airflow over the sensors, so temp readings are not that accurate (even without the mod).
What only you can tell for your ambient is how well the machine is running .... e.g are you getting more HW errors with the mod, are you getting higher diffs / faster diff setting by the pool? If you are getting less errors (assuming you've OC'ed), then that is a good sign the mod is doing well.

The temperature readouts are expected to be higher (more accurate) when there is no airflow hitting the temp sensors. It may seem that your miner is hotter, but it isn't, you just get the actual temps. Should you put your own temp sensor on the heatsink, you would see the difference.

Since miners are optimized to have a temperature reading that is 20°C off (from my experience with stock fan, your miner is actually around 100°C when readout reaches 80°C), the bottom duct has small openings to move some air around the temp sensors and lower the temps on them a bit. I have one miner running at 400MHz without a problem in a room that is reaching 45°C during the day. The other one, however, has an older heatsink and I can't push it as hard. :D It's happily working at 381.25MHz.

Both of my miners regularly have a 5°C difference between boards. I'm unsure if it's the cheap temp sensors or the difference actually exists, I haven't tested.

The best way to see how well is the miner running is to compare HW errors. Up the frequency and let it run for several hours. As long as you're under 0.01% HW errors, you're good.
Here's how's my 400MHz running:
http://www.pohrani.com/f/3h/Do/3LYATpZi/400mhz.png

Thanks very much for your response - I thought for a while you were managing to keep your 400Mhz miners under 60°C in a warm ambient environment!  ;D

Running @ 350Mhz in a warm environment I'm getting temperatures of about 68/72°C. HW errors = 0.0012% which I think is pretty acceptable judging from your response. I would like to overclock to 380/390 however my only concern is whether or not running the miner at these temperatures, and higher, will affect the miner's lifetime..  ???

Keeping HW errors low is a good sign that it's running well, but surely 70+°C couldn't be too good for it...I'm not sure..

Edit - I will send you a small tip when I get home, really appreciate the models!  ;)

anytime you do anything to anything beyond defaults you will affect the miner's lifetime :) .

why are your temps so high at 350 you should be more like 55 to 65 if that at default settings even with this mode on it unless your adding on the 20 + degrees.

Just a thought i have no idea how hot it is were you keep your S5 mining .


I bought a set it worked ok for me i guess, i ended up taking it off , my fans increased in speed, temps went up , the idea is very cool but unless it fits just right it might not work right that's the hard part having one made that fits right. I don't have a 3D printer yet but plan to get one of the cheaper ones for home use soon .

It was the hottest day so far, when I took this screenshot. Because of the mods you'll get smaller temperature differences between the chips on the intake side and exhaust side, and you also get better cooling performance as you get more air through the heatsink, thus extending the lifetime of the miner and especially the chips at the back side. If you want to play extra safe because of the warranty, just install the mods and keep the miner at 350MHz. It will be optimal for your miner.

I'm pushing mine very hard. So far without dead chips or other issues. I've found that some miners can go to higher frequency than others, before their hash rate starts falling.

Currently my 400MHz miner is at 58/62°C because it's ~25°C in the room.

Hello Vorta and others.

I am wondering, do you recommend the mini heatsink on the exterior side? Do they actually increase thermal dissipation (by themselves)? I might want to add some if there is a difference on temps and properly balance the temp on the outer chips.

Are these too big? http://www.ebay.ca/itm/100pcs-Aluminum-8-8x8-8x5MM-Heat-Sink-for-StepStick-A4988-Chip-IC-LED-Power-IC-/171857107604?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item28037b5a94

Any recommendation on thermal glue?

I've been informed directly by Bitmain that the external heatsinks have basically little or no effect on cooling, which is why the only shipped a few miners with these mini heatsinks.

Probably a waste of time/money IMO.

Hah i see. Thanks for your reply.

Maybe OP has something to say about that, i think he had a heatsink'd unit and a non heatsink'd unit side by side. I'm always worried something not appearing on temp sensor overheating.

Sorry for late response. The effect really is minimal. However, there is some. I'd prefer to have my miner with mini heatsinks rather than without. But that's just me. ;D

Anyway, I'm going to sell both of my miners now. Including the 3D printed mods.


I've also managed to make them work very quiet while still being quite cool. The recipe is: 2 Corsair SP120L (not without L) fans, exhaust side fan duct and top & bottom enclosure of miner's heatsing. The front fan is screwed directly onto the miner while the pull fan pulls the air through the fan duct. The pull fan does all the cooling (it can work without) and the push fan gets some heat off the external heatsinks. With stock frequency I can have both fans working at 70%, which is very quiet, and miners would have HW errors as low as what they usually get with stock fan and stock frequency. With fans at 100% I can overclock the miners up to 393.75MHz for a stable 24/7 run. I'll post some photos of that setup/build soon.

Ah, thank you for letting me know, even though late. I have a small pack of 100 mini heatsink, but i did not place them on the S5 since the chip's top are on the other side of the board. Do you put the heatsink on the copper plates?

Also i'm guessing you will have no problem selling the S5 at crazy price right now, but if you end up being interested in shipping to Canada, drop me a quote for one/both. :)

Yes, they should go onto the copper plates. These heat up as much as the chips do. I used Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive. Much better heat conduction than thermal adhesive tape, and won't unstick at higher temps.

I was looking into selling them in Europe. I wasn't selling abroad before so I don't know how would the shipping go. The last thing I would want to see happen is miner arriving broken to the destination.

I'll throw in my late 2c also - I actually tried a couple of mini heatsinks, and the small sliver ones like this had almost no effect:

http://amzn.to/1kGJrYk

I tried these also:

http://amzn.to/1NZLIHZ

Specifically the blue ones, and these DO make a difference - the problem being that they don't make a huge difference.  If I remember correctly, adding them on all the copper plates amounted to about a 1c temperature drop - but that was a huge amount of work.  I also did everything with high quality thermal adhesive instead of stickers, so I don't know how much that would affect thermal conductivity.

In the end, doing things like the acrylic case and fan spacers had a far greater effect on overall temps than the mini heatsinks, and was far less time consuming.

I used exactly the same like your blue ones, just in black. Those were the largest mini-heatsinks I could fit on the chips. The ones that Bitmain used, however, are much better because they perfectly fit the copper area, and are even larger. My "green" miner, which features these heatsinks, is about 4-5 °C colder than the "black" one, which features black mini-heatsinks (photos in first post). Unfortunately, I haven't found the heatsinks Bitmain used for sale anywhere.

Hi Vorta - have you tried using your mods on S7 yet ?  ;D

Hi citronick! Haven't got S7 yet. When I've seen how they made heatsinks for it I was repelled from buying it. Chips at the back of the miner will always be very hot and will depend only on air, instead of termal conduction of a large heatsink. Meaning that they will overheat easily and thermal adhesives tend to lose their grip on higher temps. Which can end in heatsink unsticking from the chip.

If I ever get S7, that will mean I'll try to get all heatsinks off and get my own heatsink design extruded. ;D

May be a good reason to try a new configuration with the S7 ... as in having the fans strapped at the top / bottom top rather than front / rear (that'll require the unit being stripped though as top and bottom are sealed). That way, I suppose, even the fan specs can be downgraded as the distance to exhaust has been more than halved. (just a thought!)

The S7s are really loud and noisy - but currently is my best miner so far very steady 4.8TH to 5TH @ 58-62c average, fan speed 60%
I have seen in other post, people putting duct tubes, insulation, some crazy stuff to reduce noise and heat.
It will be great to 3D print a "noise and heat reduction" kit for S7s, given that we have a lot of experience and lessons learnt from the S5 mods.
This project will also give me the "energy" to start installing my I3 printer currently still in the box, manual says 5-6 hours installation time required... sigh.

This, in fact, would be a much better solution. If miner was built to have 4 or 6 slower fans, blowing from the bottom-up, it would be very quiet and air's shorter travel distance would make sure that chips "in the back" (actually on the top in this case) would not be much hotter compared to the chips next to the intake.

However, such miners wouldn't work for most common setups, those being shelves or racks. Should I get an S7, I'll most definitely move towards modding it in such way. But the first thing I'd check is if it is possible to get those heatsinks off. Bitmain seems to really struggle with heat dissipation. I had a heatsink design which would cool 4 blades with a single fan, but couldn't get it extruded so I went with 3D printing. :-[

One of the best directions with cooling solutions I saw is the Block Erupter Prisma's design. With a major pitfall, though - large hole in the middle of heatsinks, allowing the air to avoid going through the fins.

I think the re-orientation of the fans can work if you stand the miner on the current orientation's front or back, such that the current top / bottom where the new orienation fan(s) are now strapped become(s) the new front / back.
You can get as many sub $2 120mm 0.35Amp 2000rpm fans in both push / pull configuration as you want (8 or 10 no matter) and have the temps under control plus a whisper for noise!
Realistically though, there are so many practicalities to make adaptation prohibitively expensve for a $2000 toy lottery ticket. First, the power connectors would be in the way as they are atop, and the control board would also have to be moved, which would require getting longer data cables etc.. Bitmain themselves ought to look at the benefits (or lack of) of that design and produce a next gen miner quietly suited for home mining.

I think I should make a video of the miner I'm planning to put for sale soon. Even with stock software configuration (350MHz, auto fans), the fans don't need to rev up to 100%. Runs so quiet you can have it next to your bed. Even when set to 400MHz fans don't go all the way to 100%. They go to about 85% and stay there. With 350MHz, fans can be manually set to as low as 60%. The fans are these so they are very quiet at 60%:

http://s8.postimg.org/6kqdws6f9/h60_fan_1.png

So if Bitmain wants to make a quiet 600W miner for home mining, that design would be perfect.

Actually, here's a few quick shots:

Front:
http://s16.postimg.org/629bfu3d1/DSC_0882.jpg

Back:
http://s16.postimg.org/tj16eloxx/DSC_0883.jpg

Top:
http://s16.postimg.org/ngtjo40hx/DSC_0885.jpg

Mini heatsinks, installed by Bitmain. Very small series of miners was made with these and that is what helps this miner to run very cool. It doesn't help a lot, naturally, but it makes a noticable difference.
http://s1.postimg.org/4caxasvwf/DSC_0886.jpg

That's a great mod right there!
Those corsair fans should be as quiet as a whisper, and with a re-oriented S7 they could possibly do a wonderful job. I wonder though, what temps do you get with the S5? Also, what is the amperage rating on those corsairs?

It seems that all the links are currently dead, does anybody have pictures backed up or anything? I am looking to swap out the fans on my S7 and was going to use this as a semi guide. I have gotten it very quiet so far using only 33% fan.

Is there a place to purchase the 3D printed duct/spacers I see in some of these pictures?  I've searched ebay, with no luck.

I would go to services and look for someone to print them.   I have seen a few sites that do it but all were pretty high it could have changed since I looked it was a while back.

But with hiring someone in services I think will be lowest price.   Unless you have a local maker club, a lot of big cities have maker groups that you could actually go to the person or club and one would print even cheaper.

Thank you. They really are very quiet. Probably the best choice for this. Especially due to their high static pressure. Temps go about 65-70°C at 400MHz. At 350MHz they're down at about 50-55°C, not requiring the fans to go 100%. If I manually set them to be 100% at all times, than temps are even lower.
Amperage of Corsairs is 0.36A/fan.



I may have photos archived somewhere. If I find them, I'll replace them.



I don't think anybody's printing them for sale. Usually they just order a 3D printing service for themselves.

After testing that everything works, I've put the miner up for sale on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/151918302055

Hello Vorta!

I was wondering... how much degrees Celcius did you lose for each step when:

1. Repasted the miner with a much better thermal paste?  (and what paste did you use?)

2. Added mini heatsinks on the external side of the hashboards with adhesive termal paste?

3.  Closed the miner's heatsink with 3D printed plates so no air can run out on the top or bottom sides?

4.  Added fan ducts between fans and miners which direct most of the air through the main heatsink and blow just a little bit of air to external heatsinks, just to drive some airflow on the sides?

And finally, is there any way else that I can see your pictures that you posted?  For every picture doesn't show the picture and says :
bitcoin talk image proxy: invalid image


Thanks very much!  I was going to do the first two steps but am trying to find data showing if it is worth it or not.  Was gonna replace the front fan with a Enermax Twister Storm 120mm  UCTS12A :  (3 links to fan)   Or maybe two of them stacked with a pull fan on the otherside or maybe two stacked there as well.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835214060   

http://www.enermax.co.uk/fans/twisterstorm/   

https://pcpartpicker.com/part/enermax-case-fan-ucts12a

A friend of mine printed up the mods for me and I installed most of them on my S5 last night.  I did not have the flat top M3x5mm screws so I couldn't do the intake or exhaust ducts just yet.

Bottom plates going on.
http://i64.tinypic.com/1zz25bp.jpg

Top plates on.
http://i65.tinypic.com/309lu1c.jpg

Controller board reinstalled and ready to hash!
http://i63.tinypic.com/14a8xzp.jpg

It runs about 1*C cooler with just the top and bottom plates (fan set at 60%) and 1dB quieter.  When I install the intake and exhaust ducts I will also be adding a pull fan and then play around with oc'ing.

It doesn't seem like the op is active anymore, I would like to verify he still has access to the btc address in the first post so I could send him a tip.

I was thinking/hoping the plates would have a bigger effect on the miner than a measly 1C/1dB. I look forward getting the final numbers when you install the ducts, however.

one of my s5s have these plates and one doesnt..

the temps are about the same, but the one that has the plates you dont hear the fan wine.. just the air rushing through..

as far as the screws, you really only need 2 per plate on the bottom ;) i put mine like this /\

i also have the air ducts, but i took them off.. not because of noise, but because the airducts dont have enough holes in them to let the air through the outside and the wire plugs get hot..

I like very much the latest batch with the mini heatsinks! i find them sexy as hell!
and cooler for sure!

Well the real benefit isn't just installing them with the stock fan, it's that I should be able to run a quieter fan/less rpm and still achieve adequate cooling vs. the cranked up loud stock fan.

I dont really understand why a high CFM/pressure fan would see no boost, but a low-mid CFM fan would? I guess less pressure would be lost, which may matter more for fans that dont have much pressure to spare?

I think what happens is only so much air can pass through so it builds up a pressure bubble and any excess gets thrown out the side

I added the front fan duct.  I like that it directs most of the air through the heat sinks and just a little to the outsides of the boards, but I found that the api reports a higher temp (temp sensor on outside) even though I'm sure the chip side of the boards is cooler than before since more air is moving past them now.  Barely any air was escaping out the tops of the sides, but I could feel it was warmer on the outsides due to the reduced air flow there.  

http://i68.tinypic.com/10hpr90.jpg
(I also added some clear acrylic side panels.)

I installed a pull fan but did not include the rear duct because that duct does not let the pull fan pull any of the warm air from the outsides of the boards.  With the pull fan (Delta AFB 1212VHE) the unit reports much cooler temps (3-5*C) than without it and the air on the outsides of the boards is much cooler.  Basically no air escapes out the top of the sides now, it is all pulled out the back.  The pull fan also equalized the temps across both boards, one always read hotter by a couple degrees before.

We have a cold front moving through so I spun it around 180 to intake cool air through the dryer duct and blow the warm air into my house.

Has anyone tried using these legs on an s7 yet?

I added a few small heat sinks to the one side of the asic's with a 14 degrees drop i'm not complaining
have to order enough to do the rest of the miners now
working on printing mods next

http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/attachments/3/9/6/1/0/4/a9142101-11-P7030225.JPG

http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/attachments/3/9/6/1/0/4/a9142089-156-Screenshot%202016-07-03%2014.56.15.png

$1.99 for 10pcs - 10mm Adhesive Aluminum Heatsink For RAM Memory IC Chips Cooling 10x10x10mm
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321705680592 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/321705680592)

hey

im just bumpin this thread to say if anyone needs these legs i can make them for them. they dont just work with the s5's either....they work with s5/s5+/s7/and s9 miners. i personally use them on my s7's and they help keep my miners running cool. i also have a duct attachment that will screw onto one fan to make attaching a duct easier. i use ducts for some of my s7's because there is a drop ceiling where i run my miners so it helps cool the room my miners run in.

pm me if interested. i have 4x leg kits that have the screws and ones that dont have the screws. if your using the legs you will need longer screws for the s5+ and above because the stock ones aren't quite long enough. I can also print other stuff if you guys need anything printed. I have a lulzbot taz 6 printer so it has a pretty large printbed.

Have you got pictures of the leg kits? The pics on the first page have gone

You can download the 3D printer files and open them with various free online sources, and see what they look like that way.

here is a link to one of the listings. There r 2 total.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/201612306974

Wow great details. Good images. Ebay link still exists.

A few quick questions.

1) Per an article on heat dissipation and metals it notes that copper is about 2x the conductivity of aluminum. See: https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/which-metals-conduct-heat-best/ (https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/which-metals-conduct-heat-best/). Do you know of any copper heatsinks that are similar in size, that is, 10x10x10mm.

2) Do you know of any heatsinks that are taller, that is, 10x10x100mm? And do you think this would this cool even better than 10x10x10mm?

3) Do you recommend 10x10x1mm thermal pads as well? For example, this product (100Pc 10x10x1mm Silicon Chip Thermal Pad Heatsink Conductive Insulation Paste HU) http://www.ebay.com/itm/100Pc-10x10x1mm-Silicon-Chip-Thermal-Pad-Heatsink-Conductive-Insulation-Paste-HU-/221949052694?hash=item33ad31c716:g:qwsAAOSwwE5WUzNb (http://www.ebay.com/itm/100Pc-10x10x1mm-Silicon-Chip-Thermal-Pad-Heatsink-Conductive-Insulation-Paste-HU-/221949052694?hash=item33ad31c716:g:qwsAAOSwwE5WUzNb)