I mailed one of my bitfury boards back to them, at the 355 Lancaster address, and it was returned within a week.  hopefully you'll have the same quick turn around time on your bad parts.

My assistance to customers, will be technical support. (Though limited by several things.)

I am not personally reworking the boards myself, just identifying the point of failures, and marking the components to be reworked.

If I can, I will try to assist with locating or obtaining missing parts. (Once I have settled-in. I just got out of the hospital a few days ago, and have to finalize the "informal contract", with Josh.)

No, I am not speaking on behalf of AMT. I am simply parroting the obvious and giving personal opinions. AMT speaks for AMT. I am, for what it matters, assisting AMT on the technical side, through my informal contract of services. My duties, as I have stated, are related to locating and isolating faults in post-tested boards, for reworking. (Loss prevention and recovery. To reduce the overhead of potential losses, from under-performing or faulting components on the cards.) Thus, my desire to have knowledge of the specific issues, which are reported here, are of strong interest to me. This gives me a specific guidance for things to look for, to resolve. (Just as Microsoft had issues with PSU's and heat-sinks, post production and post testing. The cause of 90% of the RROD situations.)

Hope that clears a few things up.

Its interesting to see how if this thread goes on track for a bit, the useless commentators show up again. They have less than nothing to contribute so I consider them trolls at this point. Loshia contribute something. You are an idiot who just takes perverse pleasure in seeing others misery. Otherwise you would be actually trying to help people out here instead of just going on and on about poserkos and all that nonsense and bad english you keep going on about. Contribute or GTFO troll. Goes for the rest of you who keep on talking about useless crap. I think the horse has been more than been beaten to death on the topic of AMT as a company. Those of us with issues with the hardware just want it working bottom line. If it can be done great, if AMT provides service great, if not EVERYONE here already knows their options and are adults. Having a group of trolls beating the drums of war just makes you look even more retarded. Seems like you have no life but to be on here and comment on this and take pleasure in the misery of others and lol indirecly saying I told you so. We fucking get it now go away and bother someone else.

Those of us with problems just want results and help to get our hardware working. ANd in this case there are a few people here willing to help. If you dont want to be apart of that and you have the ability to then you are useless if you just want to talk about poserko this and poserko that. We don't speak your language. But whatever it language its in you are clearly just talking stupid whether its bulgarian or english. Because its useless to everyone here at this point.

Mine work just fine. I have blue ones and black ones. If by orange I assume you mean the copper ones? If so then yes I have those. And they are working just fine.

The "Kit option", was not intended to be produced. It was for those who felt they could not wait any-longer, and felt they could live with the incomplete units. (With the missing components, stated.)

However, there seems to be a little more "hobby", than expected. The new revisions of the boards and backplanes and PSU's, (which was what they did not want to wait for), are being shipped now. There is still an issue with post-tested boards, which I am sure a better testing setup will resolve. Once they know the source of the failures. Josh has informed me of these potential issues, as well as the forums. These "kits", should not be a representation of the "final product". (For those who have gotten the fully assembled units, with shipping damage, that is another issue.)

The short-falling of the chips themselves, and the original erred designs, given by the MFG, is not making this easy for anyone at the moment.

my boards work and have blue heatsinks, my friend tims has copper heatsinks/orange and his dont. i also noticed on my boards on bottom right (fan side) it says Rev 3.0A so not sure if that has anything to do with it either

"Bad boards", that is actually my job. I am sure I will see your board in the future.

I will be offering some technical advice in the future, as well as, (hopefully), some form of live support.

I've got the two working boards up an running. I've been sick so after my PTSD class today I just came home and passed out. Didn't get a chance to call AMT.

I'll make that my job for Monday. Try to get in contact and get an RMA for the three non working boards.

I'll ask for that or a refund for 2/3 of the purchase price since I've only got 1/3 of the stated performance. I'd be happier to settle up with them the second way to be honest. That way I don't have to deal with thier bullshit anymore.

I'm just too worn to deal with it right now.

Heat guns can be found as cheap as $20, with spreading and focusing tips.

Here are some SMT tools and more info, if you are looking to expand your collection.
http://store.curiousinventor.com/guides/Surface_Mount_Soldering/Tools/

If you don't have a good heat-gun, with a temp-control and focusing-tip... There is an alternative way to rework or remove the components. (This is NOT an AMT recommended solution for anything. Use this information at your own risk, and voiding of any form of warranty.)

You can use a hot-plate and focus the heat with an aluminum or copper block. Use an old pot-holder as insulation, to focus the heat where you want it. You can also use a top-side fan, to ensure the stray heat does not loosen other components.
IRON as a hotplate. http://runawaybrainz.blogspot.com/2011/11/surface-mount-devices.html
SKILLET as a hotplate. https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/59
BURNER as a hotplate. http://jimlaurwilliams.org/wordpress/?p=2101

1: Cut a hole in the pot-holder, to fit the block of copper. (Just a tiny bit shy of the actual size, so it holds firmly to the block, as you push it through.)
2: Place the copper block and heat-shielded pot-holder on the hot-plate, and get it "up to temperature". (You can use another pot-holder to contain the heat, like a cover, until the temp is high enough to melt the low-temp SMT solder. I use a junk PCB, which I can just lay on the block. When it turns shiny, it is just about ready.)
3: Brace the board with cardboard, so it will stay as level as possible against the block of copper.
4: Use a piece of electric tape, looped so the sticky-side is outward, hung from a pencil or paper-clip.
5: Tap the tape-wand down onto the chip, while it is heating, to try and "grab" the chip, to lift it off the melted solder. (Do not hold the tape down, just tap it down and pull it up quickly, or it will melt the tape. If the chip is loose-enough, it will stick and lift up off the board. Otherwise it will remain, when you pull up the sticky "grabber".
6: Use copper desoldering braid, to clean-up the excess solder from the chip, (Do that fast, don't linger with that focused heat on the chip.)
7: Clean the tape-gunk with a fresh piece of tape... Tap and pull, tap and pull.
8: Then clean any heat-sink compound off the chip with alcohol.

NOTE: The epoxied heat-sink on the top of the chip should/may loosen with the focused heat. If not, then it would be safe to remain on the chip.

NOTE: This board may not be safe to rework in a reflow-oven. There may be secondary components that my melt, which were added after the reflow process. (Such as the cable connections. Which would have to be removed the old way, with copper braid and a standard temp-controlled solder-gun. Prior to reflow-work in an oven. Never use an oven you cook food in, as the boards will release toxins into the air, which will later contaminate food.) You can quickly remove all parts at once, in a reflow oven, with an insulated fiberglass catch-tray, suspending the board upside-down over it. All the parts will drop-off, except for a few smaller capacitors and resistors. A quick tap should liberate them from the boards.
http://www.freetronics.com/pages/surface-mount-soldering-with-a-toaster-oven#.U1I35PldVK0

3 boards do no not work tested one by one  . I got 2 30 amp breakers I had a electrician Change it .  .. I took the 3 boards out and analyze them I don't see anything wrong with em maybe there's something I over looked . Or they just do not work . I gotta make some Roi on this 6 grand ugh these people are just a mess Should I just mail these boards back and label it with BAD BOARDS PLEASE RESEND ME OTHER ONES ? Has any one mailed in boards back . But AMT just ignores all my emails .... If by next week they do not respond I am going to small claims court in PA I hate the whole court system as they take forever to get your money back .

Has anyone been to the address where they shipped the Machined from ? the 355 Lancester ave one ?

Warranty: This unit’s system board has a
lifetime warranty from manufacture defect
or component failure.

What sort of PSU are you using? And how many amps you got running on the circuit they on? It might be how they are hooked up too. There are a few reasons why that could be happening. Maybe those of us here on the forum can help.

I've been emailing these guys once a day and I get crickets .  I got 3 boards out of 5 not running . The only response I got was why arent your boards running really ?? I donno maybe check them that they work before they leave your facility

Josh, please message me so I can arrange a trip to you to pick up my BACKPLANES that you were suppose to ship to me 2 weeks ago. Also, to replace these 4 module cards you gave me that were crap. You told me you tested them, obviously not my friend.

Okay guys, good positive/bad update.


I got 6 modules cards that run successfully. I have a ghetto-rigged backplane that I had to solder 3 times because the thing kept burning out for some reason.

Probably a bad board design...tisk tisk AMT/Bitmine.

The other 4 module cards I have ARE DEAD, they do not mine at all. I want a full replacement on these 4 cards AMT. I will post my statistics of the diagnostics on these cards.

I am currently mining at slush pool, and waiting another 24 hours before I post my STATS. I was running in TURBO mode, and it ran like a dream...

Josh, please message me so I can arrange a trip to you to pick up my BACKPLANES that you were suppose to ship to me 2 weeks ago. Also, to replace these 4 module cards you gave me that were crap. You told me you tested them, obviously not my friend.

Lets be cordial here, and settle this like men, I met you in person. Now play by the rules, and lets settle this.

Otherwise, we will have some other things to talk about...

PLEASE respond AMT whether by email or publicly.

Thanks! ~

Very Respectfully,

~Casey A. Merry~
~Merry Miners CEO~

I was under the impression it was a reference design. So all would be building them relatively similar based on the bitmine design. I haven't looked into it too deep but I might out of curiosity.

Possibly. But those other heatsinks arent covering all the chips either. Which is odd by itself.

Do you not have the larger heatsink that covers a whole side of the board? Or do you have a bare board with just little heatsinks? I am trying to understand the need for new heatsinks. The ones on there seem fine to me.