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BUMP! STILL LOOKING!
Unless meeting in person to do the transaction, ESCROW IS A MUST. (OgNasty Escrow Service)
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I've been leaning towards Kano's pool .... I guess I'll try that.
Now only if Kano would put out an optimized firmware for the S5 like what was done for the S2 ..... ;-)
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Found one .... PLEASE DELETE THE POST
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OgNasty ... do people who mine at your pool get free OgNasty Escrow service?   (I've been looking at escrow services for some future purchases) |
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Hard to believe that its almost been 2 years since I got into this hobby... it seems more like 10 years... with all the coins, pools, people and technology that has come and gone.
When I began mining, ( with Antminer U1's ... whoohoo! ) I mined on Ghash... then there was something that spooked everyone and poof, it went from the biggest to a little pool.
I then switched to Slushs pool and mined there for pretty much a year. But the "bad luck" seems to be more prevalent at slushes pool than anywhere else. To me it, it was beginning to feel like someone was skimming the blocks found and not paying out, chalking it up to "bad luck".... so I left.
I played with Antpool, but I got a weird feeling about that pool also... It didn't seem like I was mining, in fact, I never got a payout from that pool.
It was about that time, people were talking about Nicehash. I set up my S5's and my brand new S7 miners and I've been mining there for sometime now. Its ok. I like the frequent payouts. But, I'd like to see what else is out there.
I'll soon be in the 20-25TH range, I would like, at minimum, a daily payout and a detailed graphical display of my past mining performance.
Which pools are trustworthy, fast, efficient and pays out daily?
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Is there a list of trusted escrow people somewhere?
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I'm looking for thoughts....
I'm looking to purchase an item.
The person offered to post the item on ebay where I would them purchase it off of eBay.
As far as I know, eBay has not implemented BTC at a payment option yet... so payment still would be going wallet to wallet.
Ebay has a "registration process" but I'm not sure if that is good enough for "trust" dealing with a purchase of a fairly expensive piece of equipment using the anonymous BTC
Has anyone done something like this?
Do you think something like this has recourse ~IF~ something should go sideways and I don't get the item after payment?
Or
WHO / HOW .... to use as Escrow ( never used escrow ) I have no clue where to start to use escrow.
----------After at least a dozen BTC transactions online, I got hit by a scammer that nailed me for $275.... now I'm wary of the transactions and am looking for transaction security.
Thanks
--------------bbOOmm
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I'm looking for ~ONE~ Antminer S7, ~~~BATCH 3~~~
Must be a Batch 3
If you have one and are thinking of selling it, please contact me either on the list or via dangit5 #$%at%$# gmail &^%dot%^& com
Thanks
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I'm looking to purchase ~~~one~~~ more S7 B3 to fill out a rack shelf with the same model & batch number ( makes maintenance,upgrading etc, simple when you keep the same of anything all together) Does anyone have a S7 B3 that is giving them some trouble with heatsinks, bad fan etc... or you just dont like the B3.... Let me know, I'm looking to purchase if the price is right. Shipping probably would be required since .... hardly anyone in Wisconsin mines even though they make good heaters in winter. Thanks |
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Do not attempt if you are not familiar or comfortable working around high voltage. Touching the wrong area can result in shock, burns and even death!!! USE ESD PROTECTION when the device is not powered up, but NOT when the device is powered up.
All power supplies are built differently, some have "fixed" voltage regulation, some have a slightly variable voltage regulation. The DPS-1200FB is one that is slightly variable.
Unplug the power supply and clip into your ESD protection.
Remove the 4 screws that hold the cover on.
Tilt back the cover, wiggle and pull down to remove, you will see the tabs are T shaped and hook into the slot.
When the cover is off, fold back the fishpaper insulation.
The now exposed side board will show 3 very small potentiometers (silver in color near the top edge of the board)
The voltage regulation potentiometer is the far right one, that is the one you need to tweak, but first you need to power it up under load.
Once you see where and what you need to do, unclip from your ESD protection and plug in the power supply ( in my case I used 240VAC )
NOTE --- The power supply is HOT now ... DO NOT START TOUCHING CIRCUIT BOARDS WITH YOUR FINGERS OR TOOLS... HIGH VOLTAGE IS PRESENT!!!
If you do not have a resistive load that can handle continuous duty, use a miner as the load. I'd recommend at minimum, a 50% load of the power supplies maximum rated output.
Once your load has stabilized ( miner up and hashing ),take your DMM test probes and stick them into the back side (wire side) of one of the molex connectors, One row of 3 pins is positive, one row of 3 pins is negative. Now take a micro screwdriver - I prefer a non-conductive / non-inductive screwdriver, but if you don't have one, a cheap ass dollar store flat blade eye glasses screw driver will work. BE VERY CAREFUL, THERE ARE SMT COMPONENTS IN VERY CLOSE PROXIMITY TO THE POTENTIOMETER. IF THE BLASE SLIPS OFF THE POT, YOU COULD SHORT OUT AGAINST ONE OF THE COMPONENTS NEAR BY. Take the screwdriver and rotate the far right potentiometer very slowly while watching your DMM. Adjust till it reads 12.25V. Stop, remove the screwdriver, and let it sit for a minute while watching the DMM voltage reading. If its looking good, as in where you want the voltage to be, unplug the power supply from the wall outlet, clip back into your ESD protection and re-assemble. BE SURE TO GET THE FISHPAPER ~~UNDER~~ THE CENTER SCREW TAB AND THAT IT REMAINS THERE WHILE YOU CLOSE THE LID.
Once it is fully assembled, power it up again, test the output under load with the load miner to ensure it is functioning properly.
It is then ready for use.
Make a label, a sticker, or write on the cover the voltage at what % load you calibrated at.
I should also note - DO NOT USE AN OVERCLOCKING SETTING ON THE MINER WHEN CALIBRATING. I noticed that when I used an S5 as a load and the miner was overclocked, the miner was far more sensitive to the voltage fluctuation of adjusting and would stop mining, giving you an UNLOADED DMM voltage reading.
Here's a handy picture from rchelination.com to go with the bbOOmm text.  You should be able to adjust from 11.7V to 12.7V Rich RING A DING DING! Rich nailed it.... that is exactly where I learned to do this, I just could not remember where it was that I seen the pics. The Isolation tips are also of good interest, especially when you are using multiple power supplies per miner. I did the simple isolation, disconnecting the ground lug ( and stuck heat shrink insulation over the lug ) ALSO TO NOTE WITH THE S7 .... There is no DC to DC conversion in the S7's. So what voltage your "feed" your S7's directly correlates to the chip voltage and hashing power. SO, ~~AFTER~~ your Bitmain warentee expires and you want to experiment. Keep this voltage adjustment knowledge handy.... over clocking with the ease of overvolting just might lead to some interesting results. ( Either poof to the MOOOON hashing ... or POOF, you let the magic smoke out of it ) |
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Do not attempt if you are not familiar or comfortable working around high voltage. Touching the wrong area can result in shock, burns and even death!!! USE ESD PROTECTION when the device is not powered up, but NOT when the device is powered up.
All power supplies are built differently, some have "fixed" voltage regulation, some have a slightly variable voltage regulation. The DPS-1200FB is one that is slightly variable.
Unplug the power supply and clip into your ESD protection.
Remove the 4 screws that hold the cover on.
Tilt back the cover, wiggle and pull down to remove, you will see the tabs are T shaped and hook into the slot.
When the cover is off, fold back the fishpaper insulation.
The now exposed side board will show 3 very small potentiometers (silver in color near the top edge of the board)
The voltage regulation potentiometer is the far right one, that is the one you need to tweak, but first you need to power it up under load.
Once you see where and what you need to do, unclip from your ESD protection and plug in the power supply ( in my case I used 240VAC )
NOTE --- The power supply is HOT now ... DO NOT START TOUCHING CIRCUIT BOARDS WITH YOUR FINGERS OR TOOLS... HIGH VOLTAGE IS PRESENT!!!
If you do not have a resistive load that can handle continuous duty, use a miner as the load. I'd recommend at minimum, a 50% load of the power supplies maximum rated output.
Once your load has stabilized ( miner up and hashing ),take your DMM test probes and stick them into the back side (wire side) of one of the molex connectors, One row of 3 pins is positive, one row of 3 pins is negative. Now take a micro screwdriver - I prefer a non-conductive / non-inductive screwdriver, but if you don't have one, a cheap ass dollar store flat blade eye glasses screw driver will work. BE VERY CAREFUL, THERE ARE SMT COMPONENTS IN VERY CLOSE PROXIMITY TO THE POTENTIOMETER. IF THE BLASE SLIPS OFF THE POT, YOU COULD SHORT OUT AGAINST ONE OF THE COMPONENTS NEAR BY. Take the screwdriver and rotate the far right potentiometer very slowly while watching your DMM. Adjust till it reads 12.25V. Stop, remove the screwdriver, and let it sit for a minute while watching the DMM voltage reading. If its looking good, as in where you want the voltage to be, unplug the power supply from the wall outlet, clip back into your ESD protection and re-assemble. BE SURE TO GET THE FISHPAPER ~~UNDER~~ THE CENTER SCREW TAB AND THAT IT REMAINS THERE WHILE YOU CLOSE THE LID.
Once it is fully assembled, power it up again, test the output under load with the load miner to ensure it is functioning properly.
It is then ready for use.
Make a label, a sticker, or write on the cover the voltage at what % load you calibrated at.
I should also note - DO NOT USE AN OVERCLOCKING SETTING ON THE MINER WHEN CALIBRATING. I noticed that when I used an S5 as a load and the miner was overclocked, the miner was far more sensitive to the voltage fluctuation of adjusting and would stop mining, giving you an UNLOADED DMM voltage reading.
Here's a handy picture from rchelination.com to go with the bbOOmm text. You should be able to adjust from 11.7V to 12.7V Rich RING A DING DING! Rich nailed it.... that is exactly where I learned to do this, I just could not remember where it was that I seen the pics. The Isolation tips are also of good interest, especially when you are using multiple power supplies per miner. I did the simple isolation, disconnecting the ground lug ( and stuck heat shrink insulation over the lug ) |
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I remember when paycoin popped up last year. Nicehash payout went to the moon.
I just sold five s5's that were at 15 found blocks each on nicehash.
LOL .... Paycoin. I mined that coin.... I also dumped for a profit just below its peak price while everyone else was waiting for that $20 price floor ....and before the stench of the scam made everyone nauseated |
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...........................went to the moon.
I just sold five s5's that were at 15 found blocks each on nicehash.
You wouldn't happen to be down in Florida and advertised on Craigslist with S5's and S7B1's for sale??? If so.... WHERES MY TRACKING NUMBER FOR THE S5 I PURCHASED and DID IT SHIP??   |
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Why did I suddenly think of Mr. Spock?
Because you're obviously a super cool trekkie! Now, Mr. Scot, can you describe in excruciating detail how you hacked your PSU to make it produce the flavor of power that S7's hunger for? All power supplies are built differently, some have "fixed" voltage regulation, some have a slightly variable voltage regulation. The DPS-1200FB is one that is slightly variable. Unplug the power supply and clip into your ESD protection. Remove the 4 screws that hold the cover on. Tilt back the cover, wiggle and pull down to remove, you will see the tabs are T shaped and hook into the slot. When the cover is off, fold back the fishpaper insulation. The now exposed side board will show 3 very small potentiometers (silver in color near the top edge of the board) The voltage regulation potentiometer is the far right one, that is the one you need to tweak, but first you need to power it up under load. Once you see where and what you need to do, unclip from your ESD protection and plug in the power supply ( in my case I used 240VAC ) NOTE --- The power supply is HOT now ... DO NOT START TOUCHING CIRCUIT BOARDS WITH YOUR FINGERS OR TOOLS... HIGH VOLTAGE IS PRESENT!!! If you do not have a resistive load that can handle continuous duty, use a miner as the load. I'd recommend at minimum, a 50% load of the power supplies maximum rated output. Once your load has stabilized ( miner up and hashing ),take your DMM test probes and stick them into the back side (wire side) of one of the molex connectors, One row of 3 pins is positive, one row of 3 pins is negative. Now take a micro screwdriver - I prefer a non-conductive / non-inductive screwdriver, but if you don't have one, a cheap ass dollar store flat blade eye glasses screw driver will work. Take that and rotate the far right potentiometer very slowly while watching your DMM. Adjust till it reads 12.25V. Stop, remove the screwdriver, and let it sit for a minute while watching the DMM voltage reading. If its looking good, as in where you want the voltage to be, unplug the power supply from the wall outlet, clip back into your ESD protection and re-assemble. BE SURE TO GET THE FISHPAPER ~~UNDER~~ THE CENTER SCREW TAB AND THAT IT REMAINS THERE WHILE YOU CLOSE THE LID. Once it is fully assembled, power it up again, test the output under load with the load miner to ensure it is functioning properly. It is then ready for use. Make a label, a sticker, or write on the cover the voltage at what % load you calibrated at. You should add a disclaimer: "If you don't know what you're doing, you can easily be seriously injured including death" edited.... |
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Why did I suddenly think of Mr. Spock?
Because you're obviously a super cool trekkie! Now, Mr. Scot, can you describe in excruciating detail how you hacked your PSU to make it produce the flavor of power that S7's hunger for? All power supplies are built differently, some have "fixed" voltage regulation, some have a slightly variable voltage regulation. The DPS-1200FB is one that is slightly variable. Unplug the power supply and clip into your ESD protection. Remove the 4 screws that hold the cover on. Tilt back the cover, wiggle and pull down to remove, you will see the tabs are T shaped and hook into the slot. When the cover is off, fold back the fishpaper insulation. The now exposed side board will show 3 very small potentiometers (silver in color near the top edge of the board) The voltage regulation potentiometer is the far right one, that is the one you need to tweak, but first you need to power it up under load. Once you see where and what you need to do, unclip from your ESD protection and plug in the power supply ( in my case I used 240VAC ) NOTE --- The power supply is HOT now ... DO NOT START TOUCHING CIRCUIT BOARDS WITH YOUR FINGERS OR TOOLS... HIGH VOLTAGE IS PRESENT!!! If you do not have a resistive load that can handle continuous duty, use a miner as the load. I'd recommend at minimum, a 50% load of the power supplies maximum rated output. Once your load has stabilized ( miner up and hashing ),take your DMM test probes and stick them into the back side (wire side) of one of the molex connectors, One row of 3 pins is positive, one row of 3 pins is negative. Now take a micro screwdriver - I prefer a non-conductive / non-inductive screwdriver, but if you don't have one, a cheap ass dollar store flat blade eye glasses screw driver will work. BE VERY CAREFUL, THERE ARE SMT COMPONENTS IN VERY CLOSE PROXIMITY TO THE POTENTIOMETER. IF THE BLASE SLIPS OFF THE POT, YOU COULD SHORT OUT AGAINST ONE OF THE COMPONENTS NEAR BY. Take the screwdriver and rotate the far right potentiometer very slowly while watching your DMM. Adjust till it reads 12.25V. Stop, remove the screwdriver, and let it sit for a minute while watching the DMM voltage reading. If its looking good, as in where you want the voltage to be, unplug the power supply from the wall outlet, clip back into your ESD protection and re-assemble. BE SURE TO GET THE FISHPAPER ~~UNDER~~ THE CENTER SCREW TAB AND THAT IT REMAINS THERE WHILE YOU CLOSE THE LID. Once it is fully assembled, power it up again, test the output under load with the load miner to ensure it is functioning properly. It is then ready for use. Make a label, a sticker, or write on the cover the voltage at what % load you calibrated at. I should also note - DO NOT USE AN OVERCLOCKING SETTING ON THE MINER WHEN CALIBRATING. I noticed that when I used an S5 as a load and the miner was overclocked, the miner was far more sensitive to the voltage fluctuation of adjusting and would stop mining, giving you an UNLOADED DMM voltage reading. |
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Nicehash doesn't do merged mining. Someone rented your hash and pointed it to another SHA-256 coin pool most likely.
Sounds logical. Why did I suddenly think of Mr. Spock? |
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Oh, damn. I didn't think of that.
Nicehash has merged mining?
I know they mine several different coins. I would not be surprised if there is merged mining there. Heh ... ok, disregard my post then .... sigh.... I thought my streak of 40+ years of having no luck at all was broken. |
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On another note, I've been reading S7 support threads lately and I'm a noticing a theme around heat related issues with the earlier batches. I wonder if they pushed the S7 family out the door a bit soon and B6 was nothing more than a drastic correction to avoid burnouts. (house fires?)
I think it's more to do with many using PSU's with less than 12.0 volts DC. Hence, the new design that's able to run stable with low NWE's at 11.6 Volts DC. Many may have created tickets because of PSU's lacking 12.0 Volts minimum. Could be what you said though. However, I hope possible fire is not the case. I cracked open my power supplies and tweaked them to be putting out 12.25V +/- 0.005V at a 50% load. It made a WORLD of difference with the S7's. My power supplies were ranging from 11.6V to 11.8V under load, I was getting some hardware errors but it wasn't so bad. I was trying to see if the voltage was the reason why the fifo buffers keep tossing the error that they are empty. It didn't fix that issue, but the HW errors went to 0.0000x ( beyond the readings ability ) For information, I'm using Delta DPS-1200FB 1200W power supplies, 2 hashboards per power supply, and used an S5 pulling right at 600W as the load when calibrating all the power supplies. |
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Well .... I think I used up my luck for the year .... I found 4 blocks in 3 days ... with an S5... Too bad I was not solo mining ....  Those are not bitcoin blocks, probable a new low diff coin. Oh, damn. I didn't think of that. Nicehash has merged mining? |
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Well .... I think I used up my luck for the year .... I found 4 blocks in 3 days ... with an S5... Too bad I was not solo mining .... |
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