|
best place to purchase the y cables?
and also how to test amps per port?
|
|
|
|
|
so 2 things:
1: What is the way to test the actual Amps per port on a USB Hub? I heard it needs a load to see something? I see people using the USB V/A digital display unit, but dont see how you could see the Amp per port? can you simply plug it into each port? I heard not...can someone explain please?
2: If they dont make that hardware bridge anymore, and you want to use Y cables to take 500ma from 2 ports to make 1A, then what would you use to stand them upright if they are to be cooled properly etc?
It might be cool if someone designed a new form of the hardware bridge that is 'adjustable' to 'side by side' or on 'in front of another' ports.
unsure how that would work? possible sliding connectors on the base? interesting thought, and a possible market?
thanks!
|
|
|
|
How hot do they seem to get running at the 281 for a period of time? It seems like they would get kinda hot.
Thanks for sharing nice to see it.
If you have a good fan you can do freq 350. here are 4 sticks at freq 200 http://imgur.com/aJnQpOehttp://imgur.com/Vk1Tu3tthese don't need the fan  notice the stud hub and both bridge type and y-cable for plenty of power in the picture below: the y-cables seem to work well up to freq 300  Hi were did you pick up those bridge type connectors (not the Y cables) thanks! |
|
|
|
|
getting on the 4 sticks in that photo avg. 61.63 Gh/s
every 20 minutes or so i hear that windows sounds of a usb disconnecting and then connecting..is that normal?
Thanks!
|
|
|
|
I'll probably go out today and pick up one of those laser heat sensor guns to detect the temp just to be safe. but they are cool to the touch   |
|
|
|
Some Compac Sticks can be overclocked harder than others mixing these low performance sticks with higher performing sticks will start throwing out restarts. MY setup has all my good sticks on 1 hub and the few lower performing ones on a separate Pi and hub just to get max potential out of the good ones. Best advice is to tune each stick solo and see what you can get it to do. Label it and mark the clock and voltage max you got it to run at before crapping out. then try 2 sticks at a clock you know they will both run then try 3 etc until you either max out the hub or don't have any more sticks to feed your hub
Thanks for the advice I actually just tried that "sad" one running solo without any others in both scenarios and it just stays green solid wont has and returns errors as above. The worst part is that they were all running great at top speed earlier in both the 2.0 and 3.0 hub and in minera  300Mhz is pretty high i don't have any clocked that high i would try 250-275 range first your USB hub might not be able to support that much power you also will 100% need additional cooling for them to stay stable that high. the default clock is 150mhz so you're pushing twice the amount of power as stock I guess i got lucky with 4 sticks in the usb 3.0 hub:  running about 8 hours or so, 0 HW errors I have a nice little usb fan blowing right on them decent..they aren't too hot at all at the moment. Thanks! |
|
|
|
the Anker usb 3.0 hub is doing this with 4 sticks:  wish the 5th was working at all |
|
|
|
Some Compac Sticks can be overclocked harder than others mixing these low performance sticks with higher performing sticks will start throwing out restarts. MY setup has all my good sticks on 1 hub and the few lower performing ones on a separate Pi and hub just to get max potential out of the good ones. Best advice is to tune each stick solo and see what you can get it to do. Label it and mark the clock and voltage max you got it to run at before crapping out. then try 2 sticks at a clock you know they will both run then try 3 etc until you either max out the hub or don't have any more sticks to feed your hub
Thanks for the advice I actually just tried that "sad" one running solo without any others in both scenarios and it just stays green solid wont has and returns errors as above. The worst part is that they were all running great at top speed earlier in both the 2.0 and 3.0 hub and in minera |
|
|
|
|
i checked the voltage on each stick with a multimeter, they are all ~.77v or so.
still cant revive the sad guy, does anyone know what the pad on the back RESET does?
|
|
|
|
|
Hi,
So that link for the fan is the correct one.
I tried to swap pout the stick that isn't working in place of another ...no luck
I have tried 25 diff manual turns on the stick, no luck..
the only thing i see on the back which makes me curious is the reset (on the pad)
If anyone knows if doing something specific will reset the usb stick back to defaults, please let me know.
I've tried bringing it straight to windows, removing the zadig driver, then re-adding it,
pretty much everything i could think of...
The reason I don't think its dead or fried is that i see no burn marks close up, and the green light is steady ..like its ready to mine..
On another note, I tried to go back and use the Anker USB 3.0 Hub once more, and for some reason the modified cgminer for compac works fine ..I have 4 USB sticks in there and they hash up to 16 GH/s at 300 freq with the pot set to direct left on each of them. once i add the "bad" one i get errors about it not hashing etc like the " COMPAC 4 attempted reset got err:(0) LIBUSB_SUCCESS"
any help would be appreciated.
thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
no i mean on the usb stick itself on the back there are settings and one says reset
|
|
|
|
lol ...yea, it looks like the BUYAHASH company just re-branded it and gave bad specs? so first they say: Super 10 separate USB ports, support 10 devices simultaneously, supports 500TB large capacity hard disk; can support 10 phones ,While charging (available for ipad / iphone charging). Each USB port provides charging current 500mA then in the QnA they say: 3, use the product that can recharge the device or IPHONE? Answer: (1) the product each port to provide 5 v, current 750 ma, in your time limitation of the charging request is not high, can charge, because of the device, the IPHONE must to charge when activate the USB protocol, so the charge must be connected to computer at the same time, and charging current is limited to 500 ma. so what is the real deal? lol nice that sound some tihng like what this does which i use . http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817707235 i have a few other hubs laying around that turned out to be junk and even has good reviews . I saw that startec hub actually and called them up, they said they dont sell any hubs which can do 1A per port...so i didnt get it...good thing So is there a ways to reset the single gekko that is not hashing at all, but was previously? thanks! |
|
|
|
lol ...yea, it looks like the BUYAHASH company just re-branded it and gave bad specs? so first they say: Super 10 separate USB ports, support 10 devices simultaneously, supports 500TB large capacity hard disk; can support 10 phones ,While charging (available for ipad / iphone charging). Each USB port provides charging current 500mA then in the QnA they say: 3, use the product that can recharge the device or IPHONE? Answer: (1) the product each port to provide 5 v, current 750 ma, in your time limitation of the charging request is not high, can charge, because of the device, the IPHONE must to charge when activate the USB protocol, so the charge must be connected to computer at the same time, and charging current is limited to 500 ma. so what is the real deal? lol |
|
|
|
lol ...yea, it looks like the BUYAHASH company just re-branded it and gave bad specs? |
|
|
|
i still cant get that 1 sad guy to hash. also in minera am starting to see more entries like: COMPAC11 COMPAC12 COMPAC13 COMPAC14 COMPAC15 It seems to be reproducing them, looks like this:  any idea on that? |
|
|
|
that hub has how much power per data port? also do you mind sharing the config you used successfully? Also are you using a USB 3.0 cable directly into your PC? Thanks! |
|
|
|
Hi, i had 5 of the compacs running, then switched a few around for better airflow, and 1 of the 5 wont start to hash - (it was previously)
The green light is on, nut no blinking.
I started with a different USB 2.0 powered hub, and was running in cgminer fine.
Then connected the ras pi running the modded version of cgminer for the compacs and all 5 were fine and hashing.
Is there a way to reset that one that doesn't hash now?
I am just running them at freq of 175 and the potentiometer is top left corner on each (flat part)
The other 4 are hashing at around 9.5 to 10 GH/s each
thanks!
unplug it and plug it back in i my stick stops some times even if i use CG I just unplug it then plug it back with BFG run in and it picks right up you didn't try that yet but it worked for me . i only really wanted one stick or id Polly have more I'm waiting more for the pods and the bigger miners to comes or hope to come from GekkoScience later down the road . There miners seem to run better then any i have used in the two years Ive been mining. I'm not just saying that they do .i don't kiss but so to speak i do get in a lot of trouble form time to time because i don't care what i say . yea ive tried unplugging and plugging back in a few times, just wonder if it got messed up somehow, even though it has a sold green light on it? |
|
|
|
right now till i get my minera back up and running ive been running 4 sticks on a unmodded powered usb3 hub i got from microcenters
there running 300 MHZ at .700 - .705
very proud of them running im getting on bfgminer
73.53/72.48/64.69Gh/s
cbm 0 18.38/18.12/16.15 Gh/s
cbm 1 18.40/18.11/16.12 Gh/s
cbm 2 18.41/18.11/16.01 Gh/s
cbm 3 18.40/18.11/16.38 Gh/s
after an hour
being im not used to running without minera i am not sure what all that means anybody care to enlighten me please do so i cant wait till i can get my minera back up and running
which USB 3.0 hub is it from microcenter? and what version of bfgminer are you running? I had no luck with my USB 3.0 Anker hub running bfgminer. thanks |
|
|
|
Hi, i had 5 of the compacs running, then switched a few around for better airflow, and 1 of the 5 wont start to hash - (it was previously) The green light is on, nut no blinking. I started with a different USB 2.0 powered hub- it was from the old BUYAHASH I found in microcenter which claims to be able to push at least 1Amp per port, and was running in cgminer fine. - unsure of how its able to push at least 1 Amp per port? it is 5Amps total i think? here is the link to the hub page at microcenter and a breif description: http://www.microcenter.com/product/431863/10-port_usb_20_hub_w-_power_supply"Need a cheap, high powered hub?This is the best one weve tested that is compatible with Raspberry Pis and other devices that require the older USB 2.0 protocol. Made by the same manufacturers as our 20-port hub, this model is noticably cheaper, while still ensuring that every port gets the power it needs.Included is a 12v/5a power supply, USB 2.0 cable, and hub. This model is designed for ports that require a high amount of electricity, and should be able to provide at least 5v/1a, or greater per port."SKU 198192 Mfr Part# 10P-U2-60W UPC 633131946505 GENERAL USB Technology USB 2.0 USB Ports 10 USB Charging Ports 1 Charging Port Output 5A Port Type USB Type A Power Supply 12v/5a Parts 1 Week Labor 1 Week What's in the Box SiPort-Type 10 Port USB Hub12v, 5A Power Supply1 USB 2.0 Cables included Then connected the ras pi running the modded version of cgminer for the compacs and all 5 were fine and hashing. Is there a way to reset that one that doesn't hash now? I am just running them at freq of 175 and the potentiometer is top left corner on each (flat part) The other 4 are hashing at around 9.5 to 10 GH/s each thanks!  |
|
|
|
|
I want a BAR of GOLD!!!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
Show Posts
