since the thread is long and messy. what are current finds - how fast can it run now max?
depends on the chips.. so luck of the draw. theoretical max is near 9 ghs with a stock jally. best so far seems to be 8.5 or so (with a stock 2 chip jally). cks firmware is solid.
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two 6 pin pcie plugs for 350 watts?
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Actually I used those screw type wire connectors. I added those tape just in case not to expose any live wires out. And I have not start using that "new" adapter. But the advices here, is definitely a must-follow for me. Will do them before I start using that adapter Thanks all~ EP
these? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twist-on_wire_connectorif so, good. for others who may read this.. you can get a variety pack for a couple bucks at any hardware store. these, and electrical tape, are a must have in any tool kit in any electronic tool kit. btw soldering is the gold standard. if youre doing these mods you should have soldering gear anyway.
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v0.3 has a shortcut on the desktop to an update script that will download and install the newest CGMiner. You can just click on it, and it should work pretty seamlessly, but I was hoping other people would have a chance to try it and give me their feedback.
just tried it on my notebook (t6600, 4 gig) it updated to 3.4.3 fine. one thing though, can you keep the old copy? it did say it was backing it up but I didnt see it anywhere, although I just giving it a quick test spin so looked fast. this seems pretty slick, next step it to try it on an old vostro cast off from work. 5830 and 3 usb devices. oh btw it found my wireless card and connected once I put the password in. and that was your stock 0.3 image with no editing on anything, just loaded the ISO image, booted and poof, off it went
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Like I said, I'd just love to just wipe all the Com ports/drivers out clean and start anew.
delete the com ports from the device manager. windows will "rediscover" them as you plug the erupters in. make a system restore point 1st though. just in case.
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The most economical is probably a preheater for the hot water heater, but you'd have to go through a good bit of hot water to make it worth it.
I have a hybrid domestic hot water heater. it uses a heat pump to remove heat from the air and put it into the tank for our use. similar to this one: http://www.geappliances.com/heat-pump-hot-water-heater/and my miners are in the basement...
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Deep fried erupter, anyone?
how warm does the jar get?
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good deal might of been the reinstalling the drivers and/or removing/reinstalling the card switched things around to work,but you have it running so dont do it just to test that I edited my 1st reply to you to link to and gave a small quote from microsofts explanation for error code 12, the link is worth a read, especially their suggested fixes.
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this has nothing to do with cables. 2 devices are conflicting, trying to use the same memory address for I/O probably go into the BIOS and disable unused hardware listed.. enabled devices are allocated resources (interrupts, memory ranges, sometimes DMA channels) even if not used. tell the bios your hardware should be managed by the OS, not BIOS. or, if it already says that, switch it to the other if that fails, try changing card slots. what cards are you running, and what mobo? OS version? EDIT here is microsofts take on error code 12 http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc732199%28v=ws.10%29.aspxTwo devices have been assigned the same input/output (I/O) ports, the same interrupt, or the same Direct Memory Access channel. The assignment was made by either the basic input/output system (BIOS), the operating system, or a combination of the two.
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[snip..] Im going to install *nix. just not sure which flavor.
currently have a bfl single, bfl jalapeņo, and it will have a block erupter on it soon as well. it will mine BTC 24/7.
Im thinking of ubuntu 13.04 ht even go with dual boot if its easier, ubuntu 13.04 off the HD for occasional non mining and something else via USB flash drive for mining.
any suggestions?
I used Ubuntu for all my mining until I got my Pi and it's always been great for me. Can't really go wrong with it. shiney.. kinda figured as much but wasnt sure if theres a standard "goto" distro.. thanks!
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You did unplug jtag right?
yes, of course.. I didnt have to unplug the jtag cable it started mining after a less than 1 minute pause even with the cable and dragon plugged in and on. this is why a heatsink is absolutely need to flash, its starts ASAP after a flash (at least with the dragon).
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Hi longtime happy cgminer user here. been running under win xp/vista/7 with great results on GPU and now ASICs. now Im going to use a laptop I got from work so I can retire the old power hog P4/XP rig running the ASICs currently. the laptop has an intel t6600 CPU (dual core 2.2 Ghz) with 2 gigs RAM, 500 gig HD. huge overkill but it was free HD was wiped and Im going to install *nix. just not sure which flavor. currently have a bfl single, bfl jalapeño, and it will have a block erupter on it soon as well. it will mine BTC 24/7. Im thinking of ubuntu 13.04 as Im somewhat familiar with it, although Ive never run cgminer on it. might even go with dual boot if its easier, ubuntu 13.04 off the HD for occasional non mining and something else via USB flash drive for mining. any suggestions?
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i saw most of your guys' jally can work at 8G,I don't understand why mine not.
any idea?
bfl has stated there are several grade chips.. see here: https://products.butterflylabs.com/65nm-asic-bitcoin-mining-chip.htmlmy 5 ghs jala has 2 grade "a" or "b" chips.. 15 engines OK each chip (only 15 out of the chips 16 engines are ever used in jala chips), 8.3 ghs with stock 1.25 firmware. bfl only guarantees 5 ghs for a 5 ghs jala and can use any combo of chips that will reach that speed. seems early 5 ghs jalas had mostly grade a or b chips. later ones seem to have lower grade chips. luck of the draw.
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this is the best read ever here. only other one that comes close is the "pictures of your mining rigs" thread. Kudos!
wonder how easy it would be to just whip another simple board up with the power and freq generator and wire it to a stick (or possibly multiple sticks).
ie, something external to the stick (with its own power supply and signal generator), with leads that you just solder to the stick(s). just need to cut some traces on the stick(s), solder some leads, pull some parts and off you go. something you could do fairly easily to a stock stick with no mad scientist skills needed. Im thinking 555 timer , LM317/mosfet skill level. (not those exact chips maybe but you get the idea)
course, need some cooling mods but thats easy compared to the work youve done.
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its 220 volt, 20 amp.
google NEMA 6-20R
you could buy a NEMA 6-20P plug at a hardware store and just cut the end of the power supply cord and put it on. ONLY if you are SURE youll do it correctly of course. no sense dying over it..
where are you? Ive never hear of a whole house hot water heater with a plug. all that Ive seen (hundreds in my prev job in construction) were hard wired 220 volt.
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I run a Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H mobo with cgminer and a 6870 with no problems. been running 24/7 since last december. its my daily driver PC.
I do have the latest drivers/BIOS from gigabyte on it.
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OK ... a few things about this that some may not have realised ... Firstly, old reports suggest that if your USB power is a bit low, it can kill the AVR Dragon. I used a USB2 powered hub. Secondly, don't do it how the first image is shown. Remove it from the box - the black padding is apparently not a complete insulator ... Lastly, since you install Atmel Studio 6 you may as well compile it yourself, it only takes one menu click ... My version https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=236875.msg2591760#msg2591760the black antistatic pads were not in the box for this, and many people cut the side of the box so the USB cable can come out the side and just run it in the box good point though, Ill update the OP for those who dont know how antistatic pads work (ie by being a mild conductor). I did try to compile it, it compiled with no errors but did not run after flashing it.. the front LED on the jally just did a fast blink. did you change the source code at all? (I didnt)
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How thick was the original thermal pad used by BFL on Jalapeno? 0.5...1 mm?
not sure, my tape fell apart as soon as I removed the heatsink dont think it makes a difference as it doesnt need to match the height to anything. FWIW the tape was pretty thin, thinner than the heat tape on the VRM s on my GTX285's (used for folding @ home, not mining). Right, I intend to reflash also, but not until I have the thermal pads in hand. I tried to find out what are the characteristics of thermal pads used by BFL, and so far there is a post by Kano (on BFL forum) mentioning 14.0 W/mK. So I suppose something like this will do: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17499/thr-181/Fujipoly_Ultra_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_60_x_50_x_05_-_Thermal_Conductivity_170_WmK.htmlif it works out let me know, Ill put the link (with a thanks) into the OP as a "known OK" solution. I should grab some myself, right now mine has pieces of the original tape with artic cooling MX2 filling in the gaps
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so yours go from 5ghz go to 8ghz? yes
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