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I have had mine going at 620 stable for weeks now. The cards are good they just need some attention to get them happy.
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How do I set my Diff? I know the pools is supposed to auto adjust diff but it does not work for my Bitfury machine. I need to be able to stick it at 512 and it appears that the feature is disabled at the moment.
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Hi guys, one of my Raspberry Pis did stop working. I had to install Raspian once again on the SD card with Burnin`s instructions. Everything worked perfect until the command ./autogen.sh –enable-avalon. I got this error: configure.ac:39: error: possibly undefined macro: AC_PROG_LIBTOOL If this token and others are legitimate, please use m4_pattern_allow. See the Autoconf documentation. autoreconf: /usr/bin/autoconf failed with exit status: 1 Configuring... ./autogen.sh: 10: ./autogen.sh: /home/pi/cgminer/configure: not found I am not into linux so I have no clue what to do... Everything worked perfect...  Did you install libtool? I dont remember all the programs you need to install for Cgminer, however if you look at the README for cgminer it will tell you what you need to install. The error looks like you are missing libtool. If its Raspian you can use sudo apt-get install libtool |
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strange business decisions. dave isn't selling much if any stock. AND while he's not selling anything the real value of the boards keeps dropping every week. the real prices will continue dropping so in the end he may have to liquidate his inventory at 100 per board where today he may get 300 for each one.
Yeah, makes no sense. This will be the first time I think the diff is really going to skyrocket, Jan-Feb has a lot of hashpower coming online. I know its already gone up a lot but I think I see it going from 10PH to 40-50PH in the next 3 months. |
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We find that placing the rigs on their left side eliminates the wobble and keeps the power cords from tugging the m-boards over. Dave marked the USBs down, and the sale price for the full / half / quarter rigs are still valid. We are shipping daily, as we have everything in stock. https://megabigpower.com/shop/No thanks. |
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Time for a 75% off New Years special I think.
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Where is the Christmas half off Special!  |
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So one last question. It should be safe to have the two PCI Plugged in on the Front of my V3 Board, and 2 More going to the Back of the board on the Terminals from the same PSU of course.
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Why is the price so dam high for 400GH?
They are just for looks and don't actually want to sell them. (Sorry couldn't help myself) |
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There's another reason to use more than 2 cables: reducing the power bill. Let's assume the wires from the PSU to the rig are 18 gauge and 2 ft long, and the rig uses 600W. With two cables (don't use a single cable with two plugs!), we have 6 wires for each of + and -, each carrying 8.3A of current. Each of those 12 wires has a resistance of 0.0128 ohms*, so the voltage drop at 8.3A is 0.106V and the wasted power is 0.88W per wire, for a total waste of 10.6W. If you figure on running these rigs for 6 months and your power cost is $0.15/kwh (mine's twice that), you waste $6.95 just to heat the wires. The connectors probably add significant resistance and therefore waste even more power. Now let's run the numbers for 4 cables instead of 2. 24 wires, 0.0128 ohms, 4.15A, 0.053V, 0.22W/wire, 5.3W total wasted on heating the wires. As a general rule, doubling the number of wires (or their cross-section area, i.e. 15 gauge vs 18 gauge) sharing the same load halves the power wasted. You save at least $3.47 over 6 months and reduce the risk of fire due to overloaded connectors. Since my power costs twice as much as the examples above, I went a little overkill and made cables with one 12 gauge wire instead of three 18 gauge wires, for my modular PSUs, with male PCIe plugs on one end to fit the PSU and ring terminals on the other, for a total of eight 12 gauge wires (four +, four -) per rig. * http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gaugeSo you just made me realize I need to buy two of those Extenders. Is it ok to connect two ring connectors to each terminal like that? At least that's the only way I see connecting for pci connections. |
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That looks easy enough, thank you Keefe |
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My M-board has the screw blocks on it, looks like I just need to remove the screw real quick and attach the ring connectors. What I don't know is what wires do I then place in the ring connectors once I cut the extender. I realize one should contain the ground wires and the other power but not being very savvy when it comes to wiring period I'm not sure what goes where.
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I think the V2 M-boards have empty positions for screw blocks. I'd get some PCIe cable extenders from eBay, cut off the male end, and solder the wires into those holes. That would add two more sockets so you can power the rig with four power cables.
Id love to see this in the guide so I can do this to my rig. It sounds easy enough but I have questions on how to do this correctly and would like to see some pictures of what it looks like. Also do you have to solder them? I thought you could just attach them to some ring connectors then the connectors to the board? |
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Hey gang -
I'm Jason and have been working with Dave, Yvonne and his company to help assist with support, sales and the website.
We adjusted the group prices, and he let me know that we'll be selling a limited amount of 1/2 and 1/4 rigs at the respective prices.
I'll post up when I get around to added them to the store, probably tomorrow as I have some traveling to do.
My main priority right now is to consolidate all the 18 million pages of discussions and troubleshooting into easy to read documentation, so you will see that online shortly. The Redfury product page has been updated with installation tips and troubleshooting as well.
Good news, Long overdue. I hope the prices are much lower on the 1/2 and 1/4 rigs because the current prices are still way too high for boards. |
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Yeah the one above C01R is the one you want it gets pretty hot. Its a night and day difference for my cards, it runs with the heat sink in those locations and it will just plain shut down without them.
Just got a bag-o-heatsinks in from EBay.  Looks like I'm going to need to cut them up into 3x2 chunks ? Attach them to the location below ? Place them directly on the chip ?  Exactly. I left the Aluminum Smaller ones on the Front part, and just turned the Copper ones on the back side, or your second picture for reference to cover that exposed metal portion without touching any of the traces or small capacitors back there. I didn't think about cutting the copper ones to fit on the front however, if you have the right tools that would probably work better than the aluminum ones. Also you dont need to cut it that small, just cut it so it covers component but fits in between the other components without touching them. |
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Still no M-boards. 11000 for a Rig yikes. Can you sell M-boards Dave? |
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I just figured it out and changed it with Sudo, no clue why sudo passwd root did not work for me before, I was totally confused as to why it did not but I must have just goofed it somehow. try sudo su as root and no password anyone have advice for NOT ruining the SD card everytime the unit power cycles?
I log in as root or become root and then do # sync;halt or # sync;reboot I don't do anything on the web interface before either of the two above. Never had a problem. What is the default root password anyhow, I have looked everywhere for it however have seen no mention of it. |
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anyone have advice for NOT ruining the SD card everytime the unit power cycles?
I log in as root or become root and then do # sync;halt or # sync;reboot I don't do anything on the web interface before either of the two above. Never had a problem. What is the default root password anyhow, I have looked everywhere for it however have seen no mention of it. |
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Here is a closeup look at my card a v2.2 version H-card. I don't see anything in that spot other than the trimpot. Is it the trimpot, itself that needs the heatsink? Or that tiny thing labeled R01F?
The voltage regulator that needs to be heatsinked? It's the dark gray integrated circuit in between C01R and the Pulse inductor. I attached mine to the back rather than the front, though. It is tricky either way because you do not want to accidentally short the other components. On the front, the thermal conductivity is not as good. On the back, the heat sink barely contacts the area where the regulator is attached due to live traces and components. So is it indeed the chip located above C01R that needs to stay cool ? For some-odd reason I thought it was C06 (SH 100 16V) that needed to stay cool. I guess it doesn't really matter as I have a hurricane blowing on those spots either way, but would be good to know... Thanks for the insight ! Guess it's off to EBay with me to buy a bag-o-heatsinks. Yeah the one above C01R is the one you want it gets pretty hot. Its a night and day difference for my cards, it runs with the heat sink in those locations and it will just plain shut down without them. |
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