BFL supplying you that one?

If the psu kicks off like you said and these are the ones that leaked, I would bet that one of the FETs blew when the board overheated and pulled too much power.  If you have access to a multimeter, check the ohm reading on the PCIe connector(front row vs back row, not side to side) and see if it is nearly shorted (<.3 ohms).  A good unit will ramp up to several k ohm and then start back down.  The minimal ohms indicated a blown FET.  I'd say to RMA it, but I have no idea when it would be taken care of with the current situation...

Well... Once it runs out of fluids, it "won't leak" definitely...

Ok, thoughts:

1) Clean off the areas the water got on (it's water and propolyne glycol) with 95% isopropyl alcohol (good rubbing alcohol, at the CVS). Use a paper towel soaked with it, then q tip. That will clean off the stuff, don't knock off those little heat sinks.

2) The screws that hold on the water block to the copper plate are *under* the copper plate, so you would have to take it off the chip to tighten the right screws. When you take it off you will see them, tighten them down and make sure they are snug, but not insanely tight (or you will strip them).

When you take the block off the board and chips, you will have to clean off and re-apply the heat sink compound.

I like Artic silver 5, the grey stuff. Clean the old stuff off the sink and the chip with a paper towel with alcohol again. Do not get it on the sides of the chip, wipe it so it comes right off the chip itself. Then follow the instructions in the AS 5 thing to put new stuff on. A thin coat is all one needs, I put a thin trace on the chip, then clean my finger with isopropyl and use my finger to spread it on the chip evenly. Once again don't go over the sides of the chip but get to the edges.

Then I put a thin smudge on the heat sink plate itself and put it back on. Put the screws in loosely at first, the put them back on and tighten them in a 4 cross pattern (1,3,2,4,1,3,2,4) a little each time. Remember if you tighten down one side all the way then the other, it could crack the chip edge. Finger tight, enough so that with your fingers gently squeezing the screwdriver you snug the screws down.

Then the three or two outside screws, they provide structural stability which is nice.

Now time to fire up. Start up the unit and keep your dry finger on the back behind each chip. If it gets hot to the touch shut down *IMMEDIATELY* and purge. If it runs hashing for 5 minutes and is not hot to the touch (100 degrees is about what I would say is getting hot) then you probably do not need to purge.

If you need to purge:

Well, you have to pull one of the hoses from the radiator, then fill it with the pumps running. Bit complex. What I did was replace a hose from the pumps to the radiator. Put both the radiator and the hose in a bucket, immerse them and start up. Stuff will come out of one of them and be sucked in the other. Lift the one that it's coming out out of the water and run it until there are no bubbles. Then put both back in the bucket while it's running and complete the connection. That way you have no air going into the system and it will work.

Fun, but do-able. Make sense?

C

+1 best answer.

Return for refund. You could at least expect one now in a reasonable time frame.

Monarchs are up and running.  You can now view our overall hashrate (~5TH/s) by finding NastyMining on the NastyPool Miners List.  It is also worth noting that we are still receiving cloudmining from BFL, so our overall hashrate is now ~10TH/s.