Mmmh I think you need special options on the pool settings for MMR (extranonce if I remember well) but minerd doesn't support it, so you should try with Cgminer/Bfgminer.

Hey I'm trying to mine using android with the NeoNeonMiner app but I can't get any connection to the server.  Was wondering what I'm doing wrong.
Here's the settings I entered.

Mining Server: stratum+tcp://us.litecoinpool.org
Internet Port: 3333
Internet Protocol: stratum+tcp
Mining Protocol: scrypt
Username: SwiftyMcJ.1
Password: I put the password I created on the website for my worker
Number Of Threads: 4

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

I don't know if this is what michelem had in mind but I've had some success sshing into Minera and executing another instance of bfgminer or cgminer whilst the primary mining instance is running.

I have two R-Box 2s arriving today.  I'm hoping that they'll work well on Minera after the trials of trying to get Antminer U3s to work in a consistent and stable way.  Minera itself worked perfectly but the U3s themselves were a nightmare!

For Wi-Fi https://github.com/michelem09/minera/wiki/Configure-Wifi

For multiple miners there isn't any support but you can always run yours manually in the same Minera instance.

Actually, i just realized i can use thos tiny step-down converter modules, as a replacement for the filtering cap, since those can configured to not step down voltage at all, you still get 12 volts, and a good replacement of the stock filtering capaticor.
one issue though, is that i don't know about it's current capabilities so this is something i will eventually test.

Ok here some answers from LSE again :-)

if you have a normal C2 solder iron tip you can do most of the work just fine :-)
Look at my shop on http://www.LSE.solar and just over the SILVER kit :

Gridseed Blade tuning kit (silver)

This tuning kit is for a Gridseed Blade 80 Chip system. It includes as follow :

    (2) 2 Terminal
    (2) 39Kohm resistor
    (2) Capacitor Aluminum 220UF 35V 20% SMD
    (1) 1mm drillbit
    (4) 10*10*5mm Aluminium Heatsink with Thermal Pad
    (2) 8*8*5mm Aluminium Heatsink with Thermal Pad


Those parts will get you to where you wana be :-)  if you put your solder iron to work and heat up the SMD itself it will melt both solder ends and you can lift it easy of the Circuit board, same way you can apply the new SMD resistor :-). Sounds crappy but does work with those simple SMD resistors just fine.
The CAP is also easy to do. Just pull it twisting of the board and than apply with the Solder iron heat to the Pin's to remove those.
If you need some nice heat resistant solder I can put that into the envelop too :-) . Once the CAP is removed you put the new one in place and just apply to the end tips some solder while holding it down to the board. And done it that job.

Last remove the cheap Terminal...... Once removed you use the Terminal and hold it to the 12V+ which is the closest PIN to the 3 ferrite beads in black. in the middle of that you drill with the drillbit the first hole. than you mark up the 2nd. And drill there.

IMPORTANT :  DO NOT drill the first one else where than right in the middle of the 12V slit. Otherwise you can shorten the circuits because you touch ground which is just 2mm away from the 12V+ ....... my 2 sence .. POOR DESIGN :-(  

After that you just apply those 2 heat sinks on the MOSSFETS and done :-)

Also nice tip apply a strip of normal black electrotape  to reduce the Airflow towards the back exit so it's forced down more to the PCB Board to cool it on the backside.


Does the error rate will be lower ...  NOT IF YOU DO NOT USE THE CORRECT FREQUENCY :-)

Do only jump in 25khz jumps. So like 800,825,850,875,900..... and so on.

900 should be best option, maybe 925.   Without with the MOSSFET you can do 1025 stable.

I hope it helps.

Lumanet

Hello everyone, i have been reading this thread from page 1 - 25 until my brains exploded, it's definetly awesome to read all of your progress but the stuff you do is way over my limit, i know basic electronics and i just got my G-Blade a few days ago.
So at stock 600 MHz it mines at a puny 3.2 MH/s (WTF?? why??)
When overcloking to 838 MHz one blade works at a fairly low amount of H/W errors but the second one gets quite a lot of them, so i underclocked it a little to 825 MHz to make it happy, but anyway back to topic, i wanted to get the most i possible could out of my blade by replacing that lame power jack with a screw terminal (or just fuckin' soldering wires directly to the blades) and i also want to add heatsinks to all of the overheating part, my question is, that if i do all of that, will that make my miner a little more stable with less hardware errors? and also, i might just do the simple version of J4bberwock's voltage mod (just the 39k resistor) but the problem is that i definetly don't have the right equiptment or the money for the right equipment to do SMD soldering, so do you think a thru-hole 39k 5% tolorance resistor will work?
Also, at some point i overread that @J4bberwock connects his miners to the 6 pin PCIe connectors of a high quality ATX PSU, and after a simple google search it seems like EVERYONE connects their miners to the PCIe connector, is there a specific reason why?
Sorry for bombarding with questions, i'm really anxious to know what i can do!!
(The amount of times i edited this post is too damn high!!!)

sure would be nice if you could share specs of the unit and price so others could benefit from it too.
THX
Lumanet

Sorry I had burned your party. But finding a PSU which has 2 real 12V Rails is like winning in Lotto.



This 500Watt PSU for example only has a 16Amp rail. So one normal Gridseed miner already maxes it out :-( .

This feed focus on the heavy overclocking of those blades and that's why I call out to be very careful and do your math twice before you cause an fire. This is why I just recommend it to check twice. Also if you do your math just for LAB giggles 500Watt on pure 12V can only do 41AMP MAX but this is LAB condition. Most PSU's like the one above doesn't even get close to is. Also most PSU have a cheap cables which can't take a lot of load even the CE specs tell you differently, but that's a reason why MADE in CHINA is not MADE in USA or GERMANY. As I said earlier we did overclock with hardware mod's here which cause a much higher draw from the PSU so that's why I called it out just to be safe. Because the last thing you want is a house on Fire.
If you followed a bit my hardware mod's which do ramp Gridseeds for less than 10$ USD up from normal 600-800 up to close to 1100Hz. so you get a very nice and safe 3.3-3.6 MHz per Blade out without busting it's limit's all the way to the MAX.

Lumanet

The main thing you look for the on an PSU is the 12V RAIL. In Picture above I red marked it for you. As more AMP you have on your Rail as more security / safty you build in that your PSU won't burn up and cause a potential fire.
So a GridSeed Blade only uses 100Watt maybe 120-140Watt if extreme overclocked. The other thing Jabberwork can also confirm is the AMP draw over those thinner ATX Cables cause heat on the Cable so as more you use in parallel as less heat you have on the cable. This is one reason why I highly recommend to go full on 14G-12G 120V Cable with solid copper core like shown in the picture. Those cables can take a BIG Load without producing the heat because they are solid copper. Also an very important factor which nobody tells you here is HEAT means you loose energy and efficiency. Not much but it ends up if you do run it like we do in Data Center settings.

So do your math :

12V and 100Watt  = 8.33 AMP

Yes you see it right one Gridseed Blade alone draws on DC Volt over 8 Amp. So we normally do have up to 4 units on 1 PSU so 32AMP is been drawn. And 70Amp can be handled. If you want to operate like a Data Center meaning 24h a day on your mining rigs than go this route so you don't burn down your house. Always leave 20-30% room on the 12V Rail otherwise you burn out those PSU's and you have to buy another one.

ATX are CHEAP !!! So that's the main reason why. But if you do have a few of those like we do. We use our own produced PSU and breaker boards which allow you to hook up to 4units to 1 PSU + Breakerboard. If you want we can post photos too.

The 12V RAIL is the key. most PSU's have a low 12v RAIL if you want to run it 24/7 go and get a Server PSU those units are build for 24/7 operation.

We sell those also at http://www.LSE.Solar

Olaf

I agree. I have now decreased the minimum interval between updates of the user API from 1 minute to 10 seconds.