I understand it very much depends on how guarantee policy, terms and conditions, type of cap etc. are set.
So, escrow doesn't really makes much sense if contributions are not refundable with soft cap and no specific obligations.
On the other hand, it show at least that the team has serious intentions to provide contributors with most guarantees possible.
It's like getting sec D approved. ICO team shows they've done their homework and have all intention to fulfill the project and meet the promises given.
I agree with your opinion. ICO escrow does not guarantee that the investors will get back their money in a hassle free manner, but it does indeed show that the team is serious about their project which is something I appreciate. There is an obvious risk involved here since the ICO can pack up and run away at any particular point of time which is why adequate research needs to be done before investing even if they are providing an escrow service. The ICOS that provide escrow services to investors are generally legit majority of the time which is reassuring.