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野岛刚:豆腐杂谈
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Topic: 野岛刚:豆腐杂谈 (Read 190 times)
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野岛刚:豆腐杂谈
October 08, 2016, 12:00:43 PM
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日本人在酒馆中品尝豆腐料理时,一般会选择凉拌豆腐或是豆腐火锅。夏天吃凉拌豆腐、冬天吃豆腐火锅已经成为了日本人的习惯。但在中国人看来,这两种菜肴都不太好吃。凉拌豆腐只需把生姜和小葱撒在凉凉的豆腐上,再浇上酱油就完成了。而豆腐火锅则是先在锅中把豆腐加热,再蘸着橙醋食用。这两道做法简单的菜肴能让人享受到豆腐原有的味道,但现在的中国人并不会想去品味豆腐的原味,因此其味蕾很难感受到其中的美味。
日本人对豆腐充满了亲切与喜爱之情。
在明治、大正时代研究中国的学者内藤湖南曾指出,对于日本文化来说,中国文化发挥着“卤水”的功效。只有在豆乳中加入卤水,才能做出豆腐。这一比喻意味着,在原始的日本文化中加入中国文化的要素后,才最终形成了当今的日本文化。在向日本人解释日本文化与中国文化的关系时,内藤湖南使用的豆腐的比喻非常形象,十分有趣。
我曾在台湾居住过一段时间。最初和当地人聊天时,我总是弄不明白“我不吃你豆腐”是什么意思。为什么要用豆腐来表述这样的含义,令我百思不得其解。
在日本,“豆腐”一词是没有这样的用法的。日语中比较常用的是“去找块豆腐撞死算了”。因为再怎么用头撞豆腐也是不可能撞死的,所以这句话多用来形容对方傻到了一定程度,已经无可救药了。
当然,豆腐是中国发明的。我不会像某国人一样,把什么都说成是“日本的发明”。有人认为,豆腐最早出现于两千多年前的汉代,由淮南王刘安首创,但这种观点缺乏史料依据。在6世纪的农学及烹饪巨著《齐民要术》中,也没有出现过有关豆腐的记述。一般认为,豆腐是在宋代得到普及的。
据称,豆腐在奈良时代传入日本。随着6世纪时佛教的传入,豆腐很可能是作为一种素食一同进入日本。1183年,“豆腐”一词首次被记载到文献之中。到了室町时代,豆腐频频出现在寺院的记录里,成为了素斋中不可或缺的食材。
从古至今,日本人始终在钻研豆腐的烹饪方法。这与日本饮食长期忌讳肉类有一定的关系。豆腐成为了人们摄取蛋白质的重要渠道,因而受到了重视。
在江户时代,日本出版了一本名为《豆腐百珍》的书籍。该书的作者并非厨师,而是大阪儒者曾谷学川。他原本是一名篆刻家,曾创办过汉诗俱乐部,并从成员那里获得了许多有关豆腐的信息。于是,曾谷将其汇集成册,出版了此书。
该书共分六个部分: 每个家庭都会做的“寻常品”;便于烹饪、广为流传的“通品”;口感良好、外观诱人的“佳品”;具有奇异特征的“奇品”;外形、风味独特的“妙品”;最能还原豆腐原味的“绝品”。据说,明治时代的文豪谷崎润一郎曾亲自下厨,尝遍了书中记载的所有做法。
认真想来,豆腐并没有什么独特的味道。虽然略带甜味,还有些嚼头,但总归是清淡的。然而对于厨师来说,却没有比豆腐更容易烹制的食材了。
在烹饪豆腐时,辣味、咸味等味道很容易入味。再加上它很适合炖汤,还能用来制作甜点,可以说是一种万能食材。正因为它本身没有什么特点,所以反而能和许多具有特色的食材共同烹制。
东京有很多日式豆腐料理店。而在中国,豆腐一般无法成为菜肴中的主角。即使建起了以豆腐为主题的饭店,中国人大概也不会光临。而在日本料理中,豆腐已经成为了当之无愧的主角。
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