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人民日报海外版:台湾观光夜市进入“关光”时代?
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Topic: 人民日报海外版:台湾观光夜市进入“关光”时代? (Read 110 times)
difiberg
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人民日报海外版:台湾观光夜市进入“关光”时代?
June 05, 2017, 03:39:47 PM
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近日,台湾接连传出“最大”夜市关门大吉的消息,令夜市的粉丝难过,也令旅游业界不安。台湾的夜市曾经风光无两,被西方媒体评为“其他地区所不能及”的景点,成为重要的旅游资源。台湾当局重金打造“观光夜市”,吸引旅游人潮。如今,旅游业者摇头苦笑:“观光”要成“关光”了吗?
水湳夜市原本每一个摊位都是界限分明,现都已经全部拆除。
台湾最大的夜市在哪里?还真不在台北,在台中,是“水湳经贸文创观光夜市”,于2014年夜市经济最红火时开业,上月底却吹了熄灯号,摊商黯然离去,顾客惘然若失。
想当初,夜市车水马龙,人们想进来得在人潮后排队。这里有700多个摊位、装空调的公厕、大型游乐设施,颠覆人们对传统夜市的印象,是一个吃喝玩乐的夜间乐园,适合全家老小消磨一整晚。这里有全台湾的“排队美食”,包括辅大愤怒大鱿鱼、高雄三星葱肉卷、草屯草鞋墩阿里山铁道红茶、彰化木瓜牛奶、文心夜市豆乳鸡等。一对每天路过此地的小夫妻曾经自豪地对记者说:“我们不用开伙,路过时从夜市带两份美食,吃一年都可以不重样。”现在夜市关门,不少老顾客只盼喜爱的食摊能找到地盘重起炉灶,也有人担心夜市美味就此消失。
紧接着,坏消息从新北市传来。与台北市紧邻的新北市看到士林夜市、饶河街夜市的人潮,不甘旁观,在江子翠河滨公园旁打造了有250个摊位的“新北文创观光夜市”,有吃有喝有玩有景。但人强命不强,费心费力筹划的夜市于去年11月开业,迎头赶上大陆游客退潮。再加上台湾当局要挥刀大砍军工教的退休金,军公教警消家庭发起“周六不消费日”运动表达不满,令以休闲消费为主的夜市雪上加霜。军公教警消家庭属台湾的中产阶级,是休闲消费的主力,现在却“周六不消费”,影响所及不止夜市,是台湾消费市场之殇。
有台湾经济界人士分析,台湾经济看不到出路,人们不敢消费,也是夜市低迷的原因之一,明年经济恶化的反应会连锁出现,届时台湾的消费市场不乐观,夜市还要面临更大挑战。
台湾夜市从上世纪70年代经济起飞时成长起来,由庙口、社区的小食摊发展成商圈,创造了台湾小吃的品牌,打造了吃喝购一体的休闲经济。别小看夜市50元(新台币,下同)一份的小吃,100元一个的潮包,夹娃娃、捞小鱼等游艺项目,积少成多的利润甚至与周边的百货公司打个平手,有经济学家称其为“铜板经济奇迹”。
夜市是台湾经济模式的看板,在传统加工业年代,三班倒的工人是夜市的消费主体。当外贸加工的尾货如服装、箱包、饰品等流入夜市,追求新潮的年轻人、白领上班族包括演艺界人士也走入夜市,令夜市从传统食摊向多元百货发展。当社会富裕后,夜市又成为休闲之地,人们到这里不只是为了裹腹和找生活必需品,是来追求美食、淘货、享受生活。夜市渐渐发展出一些代表台湾口味的名小吃,比如鸡排、生煎包、大饼包小饼、大肠包小肠、生炒花枝、药炖排骨、刈包等。当旅游产业成为台湾新的经济增长点后,小吃成为旅游资源,夜市也成为台湾旅游业的重镇。台湾当局大手笔打造观光夜市,从布局、灯光、卫生等细节入手,一改传统夜市的脏乱形象,让夜市大放光彩。台湾从北到南每个城市都有游客必到的夜市,比如士林夜市、饶河街夜市、逢甲夜市、六合夜市、罗东夜市、瑞丰夜市、花园夜市、垦丁大街夜市等。
现在接连传出知名夜市倒闭的消息,有人分析也是因为夜市越开越多,客源分流。此外,夜市产品的重复度太高,特色越来越少。特别是名声在外后,近几年开始出现夜市欺客现象,有的一盒现切水果要500元,一杯果汁要200元,令外来游客印象恶劣。但最重要的原因还是大陆游客锐减。逢甲夜市的管理者直言,大陆游客对逢甲夜市的贡献最大,夜市一家药妆店一年的营业额就达三五亿元,大陆游客喜爱的面膜、化妆品在此长销不衰。过去每晚都有几辆大陆游客的游览车停在夜市,现在少多了,人没了,钱也跑了。
虽然“关光”是一句无奈的笑谈,但台湾的夜市还会愈夜愈美丽吗?
(原标题为《台湾夜市进入“关光”时代?》)
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