Wiring 240V for Server PSU from 125/250V Dryer Receptacle

[cryptoinvestor_x]

So, I was looking at adding some more eletrical capacity to my current mining 'farm' and wanted to use 2400W server PSU's wtih H110 Mobos.

I have this

https://imghost.io/image/GC13E

https://imghost.io/image/GC13E

From my reading this is a NEMA 14-30R and I need to get an adapter to L6-30P which most PDUs use with either C13 or C14 outlets.

Does anyone have any experience with a reliable adapter for this? Also any recommendations on more fficient ways to do this?

I was hoping to not have to make any permanent changes as this is a rental unit.

Thanks in advance!

[1715063886]

1715063886

[1715063886]

1715063886

[1715063886]

1715063886

[slackert]

I changed out my dryer plug to a nema L6-30P outlet. After this I could plug the APC PDU directly into it for 24 amps. This is the cleanest/safest approach as compared to using adapter plugs. IronBox sells all this stuff on their website and Amazon.

[cryptoinvestor_x]

I changed out my dryer plug to a nema L6-30P outlet. After this I could plug the APC PDU directly into it for 24 amps. This is the cleanest/safest approach as compared to using adapter plugs. IronBox sells all this stuff on their website and Amazon.

Unfortunately I can't change the outlet since it's a rental but will definitely keep this in mind for the future.

Anyone use the adapter approach though?

[AzCrTe]

yeah might be an issue because of the rental but might be ok just as long as you change it back before leaving, but then you would not have a dryer..

I had new 220V/30A circuits installed and 6-15R outlets then to 6-15P to C13 cables (C13 is the part that goes into the pdu)

[AzCrTe]

also 2400W on a 240V circuit is only 10A...
so running it at 80% should be only 8A...

[Elder III]

If you have any experience with doing electrical work or general contracting it's not that big of a deal to swap outlets, but I understand it might not be possible as a rental unit. Still, it wouldn't hurt to ask the owner if you could do that as long as you switch it back at your expense when you leave (probably get a certified electrician as well). The worst thing they can say is no.

[cryptoinvestor_x]

Was shot down on the option of changing out the receptacle at the rental unit.

I have found some Nema 10-30R to L6-30P adapters but it seems that the prongs don't match even though by name it should.

Are there any websites that I should be looking at? I've tried ebay, amazon so far

[Phantoms001]

Was shot down on the option of changing out the receptacle at the rental unit.

I have found some Nema 10-30R to L6-30P adapters but it seems that the prongs don't match even though by name it should.

Are there any websites that I should be looking at? I've tried ebay, amazon so far

I'm sure the landlord said "no".  Just a couple screws.  Should have just changed it out and replaced it when you moved as suggested above.

[Za1n]

I'm sure the landlord said "no".  Just a couple screws.  Should have just changed it out and replaced it when you moved as suggested above.

The key words here are "Should have". Now that you went ahead and asked for permission and have been turned down, you may be on the landlord's radar for a surprise visit one day to make sure you are not messing with his electrical system and end up burning down his rental unit. I am not commenting on if it is better to ask permission or not (it probably is), just to realize that now you may be under scrutiny simply for asking, the world is funny that way sometimes.

[cryptoinvestor_x]

I'm sure the landlord said "no".  Just a couple screws.  Should have just changed it out and replaced it when you moved as suggested above.

The key words here are "Should have". Now that you went ahead and asked for permission and have been turned down, you may be on the landlord's radar for a surprise visit one day to make sure you are not messing with his electrical system and end up burning down his rental unit. I am not commenting on if it is better to ask permission or not (it probably is), just to realize that now you may be under scrutiny simply for asking, the world is funny that way sometimes.

Haha this is true, definitely on the radar now as questions on whether mining was even legal came up when they came to do some maintenance in the unit. An adapter seems to be my best option as I'd be looking to moving to a place that would allow me to modify the outlets.

I found this from AMAZON https://www.amazon.com/NEMA-L14-30P-L6-30R-Plug-Adapter/dp/B004XWB2U8

But even though it's NEMA 14-30 it doesnt match what my receptacle looks like... Am I missing something?

[Za1n]

Buy something like this:  http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-6-ft-10-3-3-Wire-Dryer-Cord-HD-627-833/100672782 and combine it with something like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORKS-AC-Connectors-NEMA-L6-30R-30Amp-250Volt-3Prong-Assembly-Locking-Female-Connector-ASL630R/303108451

This assumes your dryer outlet has three prongs. If the dryer outlet is 4 prongs, you can buy a 4 wire dryer cord and modify it a bit. The 4 wire version corresponds to hot-hot (red and black), neutral (white) and ground (green). You will only use the red, black and green wires for the receptacle, just cut and electrical tape off the white wire.

The 4-wire versions are for newer dryers (and homes) that have some portion of their controls use 120V, so they take a hot leg and the neutral to run the electronics. Older dryers simply use the 3 wire for hot to hot, and a ground. I should note that the ground wire in both cases is simply for chassis grounding and safety as no current should normally flow through it.

Also to help you out, the NEMA receptacle/plugs for dryers are typically: 4-wire - NEMA 14-30, 3-wire - NEMA 10-30.

The P at the end designates its a "plug" and an R designates its a Receptacle. Also, the "L" in front means its a locking type connector, most dryer outlets and plugs are of the non-locking variety and is probably the source of your confusion.

Here is a good link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector

[Za1n]

Ok, re-read your first post again and looked at your image I must have missed earlier.

Yes, that is indeed a 14-30R. So you will need something like these two parts:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Conntek-1-5-ft-10-4-Adapter-Cord-30-Amp-NEMA-14-30P-4-Prong-Dryer-Plug-to-30-Amp-L14-30R-4-Prong-Locking-Female-Connector-14330/301794882

http://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORKS-Locking-Adapter-NEMA-L14-30P-30Amp-125-250Volt-4Prong-Locking-Plug-to-L6-30R-3Prong-30Amp-250Volt-Locking-Female-ADL1430L630/301828761

That should get you to the point you can plug a 30 amp PDU into the circuit and then power your rigs of of that.

[philipma1957]

My advice is to move.

You exposed your setup to your landlord. Basically it is over and done for you..

You will burn 1 kwatt to 5 kwatts extra on that circuit

If you are ten cents a kwatt

1 kwatt = 720 kwatts a month or 72 dollars extra
2 kwatt = 1440  kwatts a month or 144 dollars extra
3 kwatt = 2160 kwatts a month or 216 dollars extra
4 kwatt = 2880 kwatts a month of 288 dollars extra
5 kwatt = 3600 kwatts a month or 360 dollars extra


No one will let you get away with that. They know you mine .   So it is either move or don't mine.

[KougarLOB]

I am planning on the same thing.  Good thing I searched rather than create a new thread.

I was lucky enough to buy a house with both gas and 30amp 240v dryer hookups.  The outlet is a NEMA 10-30R (pictured).
https://photos.app.goo.gl/19EQlwFMCwywdu552

I purchased a NEMA 10-30P plug (pictured).
https://photos.app.goo.gl/kfIhT52jI0GM2vXv1

Coming from the plug will be ten feet of 12/3 service cord ending in a C13 (computer style) connector for a Bitmain APW3++ driving an Antminer D3.
www.ebay.com/itm/Rewireable-IEC-C13-Female-Inline-Adapter-Plug-Socket-10A-250V-AC-Power-Connector/122651877833

I have the receptacle, plug, and cord.  I am waiting for the empty C13 connector to arrive.  My question is what prongs on the plug should run to what ports on the C13 connector?
I understand if this were 110v one of the C13 ports would be hot, one neutral, and one ground.  But 220v has two hots.  So what should go to what?  Or am I missing an adapter?

I live in Illinois (USA) and local code has all permanent AC wiring run through grounded conduit.  The junction box and conduit in the first photo are grounded.

[philipma1957]

I am planning on the same thing.  Good thing I searched rather than create a new thread.

I was lucky enough to buy a house with both gas and 30amp 240v dryer hookups.  The outlet is a NEMA 10-30R (pictured).
https://photos.app.goo.gl/19EQlwFMCwywdu552

I purchased a NEMA 10-30P plug (pictured).
https://photos.app.goo.gl/kfIhT52jI0GM2vXv1

Coming from the plug will be ten feet of 12/3 service cord ending in a C13 (computer style) connector for a Bitmain APW3++ driving an Antminer D3.
www.ebay.com/itm/Rewireable-IEC-C13-Female-Inline-Adapter-Plug-Socket-10A-250V-AC-Power-Connector/122651877833

I have the receptacle, plug, and cord.  I am waiting for the empty C13 connector to arrive.  My question is what prongs on the plug should run to what ports on the C13 connector?
I understand if this were 110v one of the C13 ports would be hot, one neutral, and one ground.  But 220v has two hots.  So what should go to what?  Or am I missing an adapter?

I live in Illinois (USA) and local code has all permanent AC wiring run through grounded conduit.  The junction box and conduit in the first photo are grounded.

First off  @%^#&$*$*((*#*(@ for buying the psu from bitmain  do you live in china no you live in the usa Illinois land of Lincoln. psu should be sourced locally never from china.  if you are in the usa. of course if you live in china it is fine to buy it.

go out to home depot or lowes and buy a dmm meter measure the receptacle
do you know what a dmm meter is?

give me this reading please .    


to be sure you don't blow the gear up  give me this reading once you wire it do not plug it into that bitmain psu unit you give me a reading

[KougarLOB]

I have a digital multi-meter (or digital multi-meter meter as you called it).  I plugged the meter (made in China) into the receptacle (made in China) and got 255.4v measured across the two lower holes.  127v measured across the top hole and the lower ones.

The miner and PSU haven't arrived yet; they are in the November batch.