massnerder
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July 23, 2013, 07:50:34 PM |
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got my order today, thanks! highly recommended to anyone thinking about using these to mount their klondikes, great work. I will definitely order again if only my klondikes would get here that quickly EDIT: will be watching for those k64 atx plates, since no word from TH on changing my order to k16s I will probably need one
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jdape (OP)
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July 24, 2013, 04:30:32 AM |
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got my order today, thanks! highly recommended to anyone thinking about using these to mount their klondikes, great work. I will definitely order again if only my klondikes would get here that quickly EDIT: will be watching for those k64 atx plates, since no word from TH on changing my order to k16s I will probably need one You're welcome. Haven't worked on the K64 plate in awhile, but I will have to at some point since I too have K64's on order
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krayzie32
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July 24, 2013, 12:18:19 PM |
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I have 2 64s coming also and would love to get 2 brackets. Worst case I'll have to get some sheet alum and make my own tray to mount the boards and mount that inside my case.
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jdape (OP)
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July 24, 2013, 04:29:20 PM |
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Now in black...
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jdape (OP)
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July 24, 2013, 04:38:43 PM |
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The issue I have with the K64 bracket is the hole spacing depends (and will probably vary) on the manufacturer. So unless I can come up with an adjustable mounting system, we have to wait until a k64 has been made and someone measures it.
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massnerder
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July 24, 2013, 04:51:31 PM |
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The issue I have with the K64 bracket is the hole spacing depends (and will probably vary) on the manufacturer. So unless I can come up with an adjustable mounting system, we have to wait until a k64 has been made and someone measures it.
In that case, I hope you gets yours before I get mine
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jdape (OP)
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July 24, 2013, 05:25:09 PM |
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Idea....
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KyrosKrane
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July 24, 2013, 06:17:46 PM |
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I thought the K64 was simply four K16s arranged in a square, with interconnects plugged in between boards? Or is it a standalone board?
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jdape (OP)
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July 24, 2013, 06:28:13 PM |
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The circuitry is indeed four K16's, however, a single large PCB will be used for K64's.
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xyzzy099
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July 24, 2013, 06:33:01 PM |
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I thought the K64 was simply four K16s arranged in a square, with interconnects plugged in between boards? Or is it a standalone board?
The boards will be manufactured panelized, and can be cut into individual K16s or 2x2 to make K64s. See https://github.com/bkkcoins/klondike/blob/master/docs/KLego.pdf?raw=true .
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massnerder
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July 24, 2013, 06:39:26 PM |
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I saw that but wondered can they really be cut without damaging the chip connections, etc? I assume one would need a dremel and some care to get it done, not sure if I would want to risk it
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xyzzy099
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July 24, 2013, 06:46:43 PM |
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I saw that but wondered can they really be cut without damaging the chip connections, etc? I assume one would need a dremel and some care to get it done, not sure if I would want to risk it Companies that manufacture the PCBs do this all the time. You can do it by hand, but it is a lot of work. I wouldn't recommend buying K64s and then cutting them into K16s. I suppose TH (and other board builders) could order them with break-away cuts if they wanted to, so they can easily be separated.
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jdape (OP)
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July 24, 2013, 06:58:57 PM |
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So, I made a 'floating' mounting system which gives ~13mm of movement in every direction. If the K64 has holes anywhere around the corner of the PCB, it should work. It involves a large hole in each corner of the Micro ATX plate, an oversized washer underneath, and a custom 10mm standoff between the K64 and the plate. Here's what it looks like. I used a K16 board just for show. Top: Bottom:
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jdape (OP)
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July 24, 2013, 07:03:41 PM |
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Added countersunk holes on the washer, so it will double as a support for the weight of the K64's.
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massnerder
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July 24, 2013, 08:24:47 PM |
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I saw that but wondered can they really be cut without damaging the chip connections, etc? I assume one would need a dremel and some care to get it done, not sure if I would want to risk it Companies that manufacture the PCBs do this all the time. You can do it by hand, but it is a lot of work. I wouldn't recommend buying K64s and then cutting them into K16s. I suppose TH (and other board builders) could order them with break-away cuts if they wanted to, so they can easily be separated. What I meant with the dremel comment was that I am pretty sure I can't just lay the thing down on my table saw and cut away... Work I am fine with, finding out the vibrations from my work shook loose a chip or three I am not so fine with I guess I will have to look into this a bit more. I only have 1x k64 and the rest is all k16s, so if I know I can do it without breaking anything, it might be worth the effort for me. jdape - brilliant!
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xyzzy099
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July 24, 2013, 08:29:54 PM |
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I saw that but wondered can they really be cut without damaging the chip connections, etc? I assume one would need a dremel and some care to get it done, not sure if I would want to risk it Companies that manufacture the PCBs do this all the time. You can do it by hand, but it is a lot of work. I wouldn't recommend buying K64s and then cutting them into K16s. I suppose TH (and other board builders) could order them with break-away cuts if they wanted to, so they can easily be separated. What I meant with the dremel comment was that I am pretty sure I can't just lay the thing down on my table saw and cut away... Work I am fine with, finding out the vibrations from my work shook loose a chip or three I am not so fine with I guess I will have to look into this a bit more. I only have 1x k64 and the rest is all k16s, so if I know I can do it without breaking anything, it might be worth the effort for me. jdape - brilliant! FWIW, I've cut boards like that many a time with a band saw - but FR4 is pretty rough on the blades. I don't recommend it.
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massnerder
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July 24, 2013, 08:59:34 PM |
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well, I just did a little google fu on it and if I do try it I would probably go with a razorknife to score both sides and then crack it apart. Seems like the lowest impact option to me. I might want to mine until it breaks even before I try though
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xyzzy099
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July 24, 2013, 09:05:36 PM |
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well, I just did a little google fu on it and if I do try it I would probably go with a razorknife to score both sides and then crack it apart. Seems like the lowest impact option to me. I might want to mine until it breaks even before I try though Better yet, just buy K16s, if that's what you want Leave your K64s intact.
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massnerder
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July 24, 2013, 11:42:57 PM |
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well, I just did a little google fu on it and if I do try it I would probably go with a razorknife to score both sides and then crack it apart. Seems like the lowest impact option to me. I might want to mine until it breaks even before I try though Better yet, just buy K16s, if that's what you want Leave your K64s intact. Yea, that would be smart ... I didn't see past the part where I saved a few bucks on a k64 over 4x k16s, then later realized I can fit more hashing power in a regular case with k16s I'm sure I will figure out something though
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xyzzy099
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July 24, 2013, 11:58:32 PM |
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well, I just did a little google fu on it and if I do try it I would probably go with a razorknife to score both sides and then crack it apart. Seems like the lowest impact option to me. I might want to mine until it breaks even before I try though Better yet, just buy K16s, if that's what you want Leave your K64s intact. Yea, that would be smart ... I didn't see past the part where I saved a few bucks on a k64 over 4x k16s, then later realized I can fit more hashing power in a regular case with k16s I'm sure I will figure out something though Oh, I see... So you are really looking at maybe needing to cut some apart... Lol, up 'til now I thought we were just speaking theoretically Your method of scoring both sides and breaking the board does work, but be very careful about flexing the boards. Even if they are cut pretty deeply, it can still take a good deal of force to break the board, and SMT capacitors and resistors can crack if they get flexed much. It should be fine, just don't force it.
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