f I'm still on the tracks, I'd be curious what fees would look like in this utopian world (even without LN) where we do effectively the same volume, but all exchanges use segwit
And you are wrong, only 1 of 5 exchanges are using segwit addresses.
Well it touched more than 250k a few days ago when there was another attack from Bcash in the main blockchain.
I would not be surprised if the whole mempool receives more than 300k or 400k in there, and no, it is not going to collapse because of that.
We all know that bitcoin has been created in order to handle max 20 transactions per second, and now it is handing more than 98 per second, at the same time.