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Author Topic: How to get a 220-240 k-watt-meter in the usa  (Read 542 times)
philipma1957 (OP)
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February 01, 2018, 04:50:30 PM
 #1

  go to amazon uk

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Floureon-230V-250V-Consumption-Calculator-Analyzer/dp/B0751F6B5R/ref=sr_1_1?


you want that one find a uk forum member to order that model and ship it to you in the USA.


buy these from usa amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0O44H8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M5EEGKA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZD5T3E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/Aceland-Universal-Power-5-15P-IEC-320-C13/dp/B0747GGQ59/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?


I will photo later



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 MΞTAWIN  THE FIRST WEB3 CASINO   
.
.. PLAY NOW ..
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February 01, 2018, 05:14:31 PM
 #2

Thank you for the post! I was wondering how 220/240V could be measured...

I've just been using my Fluke 323 Clamp Meter via the fuse panel.
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February 01, 2018, 05:32:33 PM
Last edit: February 01, 2018, 05:49:46 PM by MarkAz
 #3

Here's a way better option IMO - buy one of these (Amazon Prime):

http://amzn.to/2EwdI7K

buy a short C13 to C14 cable like this:

http://amzn.to/2BLaM4d

Cut it in half, and wire it into the POW (super simple, I can take some pictures if people have any issues) - connect it to your WiFi, and voila!  You not only have a more accurate sensor than the kill-a-watt, greater load (16a instead of 13a), you can calibrate it to a known load, and it has live JSON output so you could log it if you are so inclined.  It's also tolerant from 90v to 250v, so you can run it on your normal household loads when you want, as well as the 240v ones.

I use these things all over the place, I think they're the best bang for the buck you can spend - plus it's a relay, so you can remotely reboot them.  Personally I reflash them with this firmware:

https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota

Which makes them even better - although I've modified mine to be more miner-friendly.
fanatic26
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February 01, 2018, 06:05:30 PM
 #4

Standard USA spec Kill-A-Watts read 220v just fine. Just dont try to pull more than 8 amp through them.

Stop buying industrial miners, running them at home, and then complaining about the noise.
VyprBTC
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February 01, 2018, 06:29:49 PM
 #5

Here's a way better option IMO - buy one of these (Amazon Prime):

http://amzn.to/2EwdI7K

buy a short C13 to C14 cable like this:

http://amzn.to/2BLaM4d

Cut it in half, and wire it into the POW (super simple, I can take some pictures if people have any issues) - connect it to your WiFi, and voila!  You not only have a more accurate sensor than the kill-a-watt, greater load (16a instead of 13a), you can calibrate it to a known load, and it has live JSON output so you could log it if you are so inclined.  It's also tolerant from 90v to 250v, so you can run it on your normal household loads when you want, as well as the 240v ones.

I use these things all over the place, I think they're the best bang for the buck you can spend - plus it's a relay, so you can remotely reboot them.  Personally I reflash them with this firmware:

https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota

Which makes them even better - although I've modified mine to be more miner-friendly.

$17 on amazon, $10 on their official site. Hilarious.
e97
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February 01, 2018, 06:55:16 PM
 #6

Here's a way better option IMO - buy one of these (Amazon Prime):

http://[Suspicious link removed]/2EwdI7K

buy a short C13 to C14 cable like this:

http://[Suspicious link removed]/2BLaM4d

Cut it in half, and wire it into the POW (super simple, I can take some pictures if people have any issues) - connect it to your WiFi, and voila!  You not only have a more accurate sensor than the kill-a-watt, greater load (16a instead of 13a), you can calibrate it to a known load, and it has live JSON output so you could log it if you are so inclined.  It's also tolerant from 90v to 250v, so you can run it on your normal household loads when you want, as well as the 240v ones.

I use these things all over the place, I think they're the best bang for the buck you can spend - plus it's a relay, so you can remotely reboot them.  Personally I reflash them with this firmware:

https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota

Which makes them even better - although I've modified mine to be more miner-friendly.

These look awesome!

How do you wire this for 240V?  The wiring diagram for the Sonoff shows L-N-G:



Household 240V has 2 lines on different phases and ground.

$17 on amazon, $10 on their official site. Hilarious.

official site ships from China so 2+ weeks shipping time vs 1-2 days with prime

$10.50 now + shipping

SF E-Parcel $3.28
Registered Air Mail $4.52
DHL Express $18.98

xxcsu
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February 01, 2018, 07:00:14 PM
 #7

Im using a amp meter with a coil to see the total amp's draw from the panel , its a passive device , no electricity need it, (Watts=Volts x Amps ) Wink
you need to connect to electricity ONLY if you want to use the backlight function .
Also measuring each rigs power draw with a switchable, metered pdu



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philipma1957 (OP)
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February 01, 2018, 07:54:28 PM
 #8

Standard USA spec Kill-A-Watts read 220v just fine. Just dont try to pull more than 8 amp through them.

nope  they do not   I have them and they do not work.

it may be you have a different one then me I have 4400p3 international and it does not work.

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.
 MΞTAWIN  THE FIRST WEB3 CASINO   
.
.. PLAY NOW ..
philipma1957 (OP)
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February 01, 2018, 07:56:13 PM
 #9

Here's a way better option IMO - buy one of these (Amazon Prime):

http://amzn.to/2EwdI7K

buy a short C13 to C14 cable like this:

http://amzn.to/2BLaM4d

Cut it in half, and wire it into the POW (super simple, I can take some pictures if people have any issues) - connect it to your WiFi, and voila!  You not only have a more accurate sensor than the kill-a-watt, greater load (16a instead of 13a), you can calibrate it to a known load, and it has live JSON output so you could log it if you are so inclined.  It's also tolerant from 90v to 250v, so you can run it on your normal household loads when you want, as well as the 240v ones.

I use these things all over the place, I think they're the best bang for the buck you can spend - plus it's a relay, so you can remotely reboot them.  Personally I reflash them with this firmware:

https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota

Which makes them even better - although I've modified mine to be more miner-friendly.

I have that  and have yet to wire it.

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▀███████████████▀
▀▀███████▀▀
.
 MΞTAWIN  THE FIRST WEB3 CASINO   
.
.. PLAY NOW ..
MarkAz
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February 02, 2018, 11:58:00 PM
 #10

$17 on amazon, $10 on their official site. Hilarious.

It's $10 + shipping, so it ends up being only a buck or two less, plus it takes about a week vs a day... The best deal if you're buying bulk of these is on Aliexpress, where you can get them for $10 shipped, but it takes 2-3 weeks to get them.

Either way, I have no idea how they're able to even manufacturer this let alone sell it for $10 - it's amazing.


How do you wire this for 240V?  The wiring diagram for the Sonoff shows L-N-G:

Household 240V has 2 lines on different phases and ground.

With a C13 you're going to have 3 wires from it, and they map pretty much the same - match grounds, normally it will green.  Then neutral will almost always be blue, and whatever color you're left with is line, which typically is brown.  Here's a list of the colors and what they typically correspond to:

https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/reference/chpt-2/wiring-color-codes/
MarkAz
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February 03, 2018, 12:05:10 AM
 #11

To make life easy, I took some pictures for everyone - it's going to vary depending on what kinds of cables you've got, but you get the idea:



And as a little bit of rig porn, here they are in production:



I mount them with nylon spacers on one of the PSU screws - works like a champ.
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February 03, 2018, 12:19:45 AM
 #12

To make life easy, I took some pictures for everyone - it's going to vary depending on what kinds of cables you've got, but you get the idea:


And as a little bit of rig porn, here they are in production:



I mount them with nylon spacers on one of the PSU screws - works like a champ.

I've been reading up on these since you posted the other day - these sonoffs are pretty damn cool and going to order a few to play around with.

Those rigs looks so damn neat and tidy man... I have wires hanging EVERY WHERE lol.

What cases are those BtW, looks pretty sick.
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February 03, 2018, 12:24:19 AM
 #13

Im using a amp meter with a coil to see the total amp's draw from the panel , its a passive device , no electricity need it, (Watts=Volts x Amps ) Wink
you need to connect to electricity ONLY if you want to use the backlight function .
Also measuring each rigs power draw with a switchable, metered pdu




I'm a sucker for the old school stuff with needles.  Nice!

Ok, I want you to walk back in there and very calmly, very politely tell the risk assessors to fuck off! -Mark Baum
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February 03, 2018, 12:27:05 AM
 #14

Standard USA spec Kill-A-Watts read 220v just fine. Just dont try to pull more than 8 amp through them.

nope  they do not   I have them and they do not work.

it may be you have a different one then me I have 4400p3 international and it does not work.

I love it when phillip is right and he tells you that he is right.  Thanks for the info.  This is something I've been very curious about.

Ok, I want you to walk back in there and very calmly, very politely tell the risk assessors to fuck off! -Mark Baum
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February 03, 2018, 12:36:54 AM
 #15

I've been reading up on these since you posted the other day - these sonoffs are pretty damn cool and going to order a few to play around with.

Those rigs looks so damn neat and tidy man... I have wires hanging EVERY WHERE lol.

What cases are those BtW, looks pretty sick.

Thanks - these are from my beta build area, our production rigs are much cleaner.  Wink

The cases are just some Chinese ones I've purchased - I've probably bought every GPU case available, we typically buy at least 10 or so so we can get a feel for them (you can see some of them in the background).  Really none of them are perfect, but I'm working on my own design (and not some BS like some of the other people that just take a Chinese case and resell it), but an actual designed one made by someone who actually mines.  Wink
VyprBTC
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February 03, 2018, 01:28:47 AM
 #16

I've been reading up on these since you posted the other day - these sonoffs are pretty damn cool and going to order a few to play around with.

Those rigs looks so damn neat and tidy man... I have wires hanging EVERY WHERE lol.

What cases are those BtW, looks pretty sick.

Thanks - these are from my beta build area, our production rigs are much cleaner.  Wink

The cases are just some Chinese ones I've purchased - I've probably bought every GPU case available, we typically buy at least 10 or so so we can get a feel for them (you can see some of them in the background).  Really none of them are perfect, but I'm working on my own design (and not some BS like some of the other people that just take a Chinese case and resell it), but an actual designed one made by someone who actually mines.  Wink

Keep me posted on that I like trying out new gear as well, since I'm not adding to the farm I'm currently just tinkering with the peripherals and silly stuff right now.

Even took Awesome Miner for a test run, don't know why, just something to do. It's not shabby, don't know if I'll upgrade the license for the rest of the rigs just have 10 on them right now.

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February 03, 2018, 01:40:37 AM
 #17

Standard USA spec Kill-A-Watts read 220v just fine. Just dont try to pull more than 8 amp through them.

They work fine on 240v up to 12+a...
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February 03, 2018, 02:00:28 AM
 #18

Standard USA spec Kill-A-Watts read 220v just fine. Just dont try to pull more than 8 amp through them.

They work fine on 240v up to 12+a...

Sorry, but I trust Phillip more than you.

Ok, I want you to walk back in there and very calmly, very politely tell the risk assessors to fuck off! -Mark Baum
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February 03, 2018, 02:04:46 AM
 #19

Standard USA spec Kill-A-Watts read 220v just fine. Just dont try to pull more than 8 amp through them.

They work fine on 240v up to 12+a...

Kill-a-watt's on page shows the operating range is 115v-125v:

http://www.p3international.com/products/p4400.html

I looked at all their other 'energy saver' products, none support > 130v.  Philip is on the money - plus he wouldn't have gone through all that effort to get EU ones if he could easily get US ones.
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February 03, 2018, 02:14:19 AM
 #20

Standard USA spec Kill-A-Watts read 220v just fine. Just dont try to pull more than 8 amp through them.

They work fine on 240v up to 12+a...

Kill-a-watt's on page shows the operating range is 115v-125v:

http://www.p3international.com/products/p4400.html

I looked at all their other 'energy saver' products, none support > 130v.  Philip is on the money - plus he wouldn't have gone through all that effort to get EU ones if he could easily get US ones.

Some people are just that simple.

I have 4 p4460s that have been used for over 6 months on 240v without issue.
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