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Author Topic: How to overclock bitfury asic usb miner?  (Read 3764 times)
itf991
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December 08, 2013, 10:07:33 AM
 #1

Hi all,
I am new to mining coins and just bought my very first red biftury usb asic.
I am interesting in OC my asic,but have no experience in it.
If anyone out here could help me step by step how to do it would be awesome.

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Colin Miner
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January 08, 2014, 10:27:02 PM
Last edit: January 08, 2014, 10:39:19 PM by Colin Miner
 #2

Hi all,
I am new to mining coins and just bought my very first red biftury usb asic.
I am interesting in OC my asic,but have no experience in it.
If anyone out here could help me step by step how to do it would be awesome.

Seeing as this comes up as No1 on google, but there is no answer,  I will add one  Smiley  - I am nice like that.


The red and blue bitfurys are easily overclocked by changing the resistance of R15 on the board.

A tried and trusted method to alter the resistance of R15 is by bridging the 2 pads of the resistor with a pencil line. No need to unsolder anything.

Draw a line in pencil over the top of R15 to bridge the 2 silver pads. The theory of this is that the graphite in the pencil mark has a resistance and you are effectively adding a resistance in parallel to R15 using the graphite.

The trick is not to go overboard, try one pencil line, then two. If you over do it and the thing is not stable or fails to boot, use a pencil eraser to remove the pencil line and start again by adding one thin line at a time.

OK, so overclocking will generate more heat, so add a fan or place the fury near a fan to aid cooling.



This is my BTC address  1CoLin4dZkecGinkw2YcjioXJ2QUGLKbzm

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January 08, 2014, 10:48:05 PM
 #3

I had a bitfury bluefury and I could overclock in bfgminer by changing oscillator bits by pressing M and then O while bfgminer running. Stock is 50 which runs at about 2 gh/s. By changing to 53 or 54 you can achieve 2.5 gh/s. This also works on a redfury and icefury. Any higher you will need additional cooling.

The soldering option may also work as mentioned above ( thanks to Colin Miner for detailed advice ) but this might be an easier option.
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January 09, 2014, 03:25:38 AM
Last edit: January 09, 2014, 03:42:54 AM by energeez
 #4

to overclock bitfury asic usb miner you need to calculate voltage
Code:
V = 0.8 ( 1 + ( R1 / R2 )
feel free to make me a donation Grin
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January 11, 2014, 05:10:35 PM
 #5

Oh YAAAAA...thank you. Finally, a straight answer. And, very well explained. My miner was doing a cool running 2.083Gh and I just wanted to bump it to the, so called, specks. This worked! It took 2 lines, laid very thin. I now clock at 2.379. Doesn't sound like much, however, it's very good to see. Gotta say, runs almost hot! I'll add a fan. THANKS AGAIN! Now, I'm happy.
Just in case I can help, I found a Windows GUI program for 'flashing' these (and other AtMel bitfury chips) if needed. Took some doing. Let me know if I can help.

ooppssss! Almost forgot. the link.. http://www.atmel.com/tools/FLIP.aspx. You may need an account, not sure, but it worked for me. Just make sure you have the .hex file before you try. Good Luck!

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January 23, 2014, 05:17:28 AM
 #6

I had a bitfury bluefury and I could overclock in bfgminer by changing oscillator bits by pressing M and then O while bfgminer running. Stock is 50 which runs at about 2 gh/s. By changing to 53 or 54 you can achieve 2.5 gh/s. This also works on a redfury and icefury. Any higher you will need additional cooling.

The soldering option may also work as mentioned above ( thanks to Colin Miner for detailed advice ) but this might be an easier option.

Can you give us a step buy step please.
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January 23, 2014, 11:00:59 PM
 #7

I had a bitfury bluefury and I could overclock in bfgminer by changing oscillator bits by pressing M and then O while bfgminer running. Stock is 50 which runs at about 2 gh/s. By changing to 53 or 54 you can achieve 2.5 gh/s. This also works on a redfury and icefury. Any higher you will need additional cooling.

The soldering option may also work as mentioned above ( thanks to Colin Miner for detailed advice ) but this might be an easier option.

Can you give us a step buy step please.

by pressing M and then O while bfgminer running
You can't get any more step-by-step than the original post.


It didn't work for me on a gnu/linux BFGminer 3.9.0 or various other versions I tried, I don't get a response from M then O, on a Bitfury BF1 so I stuck with the pencil mod.

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January 27, 2014, 06:55:32 PM
Last edit: January 27, 2014, 10:08:51 PM by Colin Miner
 #8


BF1 pencil modded, doing well. With improved cooling and heatsink.

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February 01, 2014, 02:10:54 AM
 #9

I tried the pencil mod on one of my RedFuries and I do not really get anymore than 100mh/s bump.
I wonder is there an argument you can use in MultiMiner to overclock with oscillator bits instead of the pencil mod?

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February 02, 2014, 01:12:04 PM
 #10

I wonder is there an argument you can use in MultiMiner to overclock with oscillator bits instead of the pencil mod?

BFGminer has access to the oscillators,

eg
--set-device <arg>  Set default parameters on devices; eg, NFY:osc6_bits=50

So there may be something similar in multiminer?


Or maybe you need a bit more pencil, or a different hardness pencil?

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February 02, 2014, 04:06:40 PM
 #11

I did get it all the way up to 4.1 but it was throwing huge errors so I erased the pencil and started again I made sure to lay down and even pencil mark.  3.33 seems to be the sweet spot on mine.  Fast and cool with no issues.
MultiMiner is a GUI for BFG with some enhancements so those commands may work as well.  I will try them out and see what I can get.
Thanks  Smiley

I wonder is there an argument you can use in MultiMiner to overclock with oscillator bits instead of the pencil mod?

BFGminer has access to the oscillators,

eg
--set-device <arg>  Set default parameters on devices; eg, NFY:osc6_bits=50

So there may be something similar in multiminer?


Or maybe you need a bit more pencil, or a different hardness pencil?

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February 02, 2014, 10:07:16 PM
 #12

3.33 seems to be the sweet spot on mine.  Fast and cool with no issues.

Looks like I need to give mine a bit more pencil  Wink  Thanks!

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February 02, 2014, 10:21:03 PM
 #13

Yes the first swipe or two I don't think my pencil was broken in enough yet and laid down not much.  One swipe and test for an hour each time is how I got it up there and then finally back down to optimal level.

3.33 seems to be the sweet spot on mine.  Fast and cool with no issues.

Looks like I need to give mine a bit more pencil  Wink  Thanks!

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February 05, 2014, 02:33:25 PM
 #14

I gave up with the pencil and soldered a variable resistor in parallel with the R15 and submerged the board it in mineral oil.



Running at 2.93Ghz (3.26Ghz with 9.7% error rate)

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February 05, 2014, 02:36:13 PM
 #15

Wow this is a scientist gathering thread.  Smiley
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February 05, 2014, 04:52:22 PM
 #16

Very cool.
Do you have pics?
I would love to see how that looks and was done.

I gave up with the pencil and soldered a variable resistor in parallel with the R15 and submerged the board it in mineral oil.



Running at 2.93Ghz (3.26Ghz with 9.7% error rate)

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February 05, 2014, 06:36:35 PM
Last edit: February 05, 2014, 07:12:43 PM by Colin Miner
 #17

Very cool.
Do you have pics?
I would love to see how that looks and was done.

It looks a bit of a mess  Cheesy

The soldering was quite simple, some kynar kynar wrapping wire attached to the resistor pads and the other ends linked to the 50K variable resistor. The 50K was all I had, a 10K or 20K would have been better. I set the resistance on the pot to something sensible before soldering it.

The oil bath is now version 2.

Version 1 used a plastic container which got too hot and melted a small hole, loosing some of the oil.

Version 2 uses a glass mug found in our kitchen cupboard, no chance of melting that.




The pictures are a bit poor because they are taken through glass, but you can see the green kynar wire and the variable resistor.



The level of the mineral oil is a bit low, but I only had 100ml and lost a bit. The grey blocks are just there to raise the level of the mineral oil, just something I had laying around that didn't mind getting dunked in oil. I do plan to add more oil so the last of the chips gets covered and to add more heat capacity.


The bands around the board are holding on the heatsinks. I originally fitted these when it was air cooled, they are attached by 3M thermal tape but I thought they would be better if they stayed on, rather than dropped off. Although I did loose one in the transition, you can see one chip exposed.


The mineral oil is Johnson and Johnson Baby Oil because its what I had laying around  Grin

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February 05, 2014, 07:02:02 PM
 #18



This one is my minimal fan, air cooled attempt for the pencil mod.

The chip heatsinks are chopped up old GPU or northbridge heatsinks, but they also appear on ebay as Raspberry Pi Heatsink Sets or similar.

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February 05, 2014, 09:35:29 PM
 #19

Cool deal literally.
Lucky it was not a worse leak in the plastic cup.
Also I though baby oil had stuff in it that degraded the board?

Very cool.
Do you have pics?
I would love to see how that looks and was done.

It looks a bit of a mess  Cheesy

The soldering was quite simple, some kynar kynar wrapping wire attached to the resistor pads and the other ends linked to the 50K variable resistor. The 50K was all I had, a 10K or 20K would have been better. I set the resistance on the pot to something sensible before soldering it.

The oil bath is now version 2.

Version 1 used a plastic container which got too hot and melted a small hole, loosing some of the oil.

Version 2 uses a glass mug found in our kitchen cupboard, no chance of melting that.




The pictures are a bit poor because they are taken through glass, but you can see the green kynar wire and the variable resistor.



The level of the mineral oil is a bit low, but I only had 100ml and lost a bit. The grey blocks are just there to raise the level of the mineral oil, just something I had laying around that didn't mind getting dunked in oil. I do plan to add more oil so the last of the chips gets covered and to add more heat capacity.


The bands around the board are holding on the heatsinks. I originally fitted these when it was air cooled, they are attached by 3M thermal tape but I thought they would be better if they stayed on, rather than dropped off. Although I did loose one in the transition, you can see one chip exposed.


The mineral oil is Johnson and Johnson Baby Oil because its what I had laying around  Grin


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February 05, 2014, 09:36:36 PM
 #20

How fast is it going with that on there?




This one is my minimal fan, air cooled attempt for the pencil mod.

The chip heatsinks are chopped up old GPU or northbridge heatsinks, but they also appear on ebay as Raspberry Pi Heatsink Sets or similar.

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