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Author Topic: Attic Exhausting  (Read 485 times)
bitcoinguy123
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July 26, 2018, 12:56:14 AM
Merited by vapourminer (1)
 #21

It’s easy to adjust the temps using the controller that comes with it but it’s mostly made for only higher temperatures since these fans are meant for attic exhaust where it would only cut on when it gets to a set high point...in my case I wanted to constantly pull out the heat and not let it build up so I bypassed it.
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September 01, 2018, 02:44:24 PM
 #22

So I ordered the door louvers since it's cooling down here this seemed like the best place to start. Would hate to go through another season of the door lifted even just a couple inches.

Still trying to talk to manufacturers about demo'ing or wholesale but no one likes to send us stuff lol  . . not that I blame them. I'd just talk about it all day ffs. Only update for now. I'll hope to have pics of the door up in the next couple weeks.

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September 10, 2018, 01:18:06 PM
 #23

I use 8 12v 6000rpm 120MM fans in 2 windows on each end of the room can be done in the attic mounted to ducting and plywood ~2000cfm for 8 and less than 600 watts for all 16

The air they create moves the shrubbery allot 10ft away outside lol  

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September 10, 2018, 01:41:37 PM
 #24

If you live where it snows, I'd be concerned with ice damming, mold, and shortening the life of your roof. It's generally a bad idea to exhaust air directly into an attic, especially warm air in the winter. If the plan is to run it all through ducting to an exhaust fan, then you should be OK.
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September 10, 2018, 02:48:24 PM
 #25

I use 8 12v 6000rpm 120MM fans in 2 windows on each end of the room can be done in the attic mounted to ducting and plywood ~2000cfm for 8 and less than 600 watts for all 16

The air they create moves the shrubbery allot 10ft away outside lol 

Sounds effective but reducing noise is the reason I'm looking to vent to the attic. Wink

If you live where it snows, I'd be concerned with ice damming, mold, and shortening the life of your roof. It's generally a bad idea to exhaust air directly into an attic, especially warm air in the winter. If the plan is to run it all through ducting to an exhaust fan, then you should be OK.

I live in the NW of the states so I actually have mold issues due to moisture. My inspector said more heat and ventilation will reduce it. In a sense dry it out and air flow. The ice damming maybe an issue. Once winter is here it will be more about retaining heat, as well at night I'll just be letting the heat move into the house or look to figure a way to let it circulate through the HVAC.   

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September 10, 2018, 06:39:51 PM
Last edit: September 10, 2018, 11:44:54 PM by frodocooper
Merited by suchmoon (4)
 #26

I use 8 12v 6000rpm 120MM fans in 2 windows on each end of the room can be done in the attic mounted to ducting and plywood ~2000cfm for 8 and less than 600 watts for all 16

The air they create moves the shrubbery allot 10ft away outside lol 

thats pretty bad considering you can get 3300+cfm for 180 watts using a 20inch blower on a single window. 1600rpm low pitch rumble vs screaming server fans...



I live in the NW of the states so I actually have mold issues due to moisture. My inspector said more heat and ventilation will reduce it. In a sense dry it out and air flow. The ice damming maybe an issue. Once winter is here it will be more about retaining heat, as well at night I'll just be letting the heat move into the house or look to figure a way to let it circulate through the HVAC.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcRPGQoeO9Q this video describes the winter snow on the roof problem with a hot attic.

ye i aint bares
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September 10, 2018, 07:04:44 PM
Merited by frodocooper (3)
 #27

Key components are ventilation and sealing warm air leaks. The temperature of your attic should be the same as outside temperature, but there are a lot of factors that will affect that. One thing that was not mentioned in that video is to not block soffits. In the video it looks like they may have blocked the soffits spraying foam directly into them which pretty much destroys ventilation. You need to have open soffits to let the air in. If using standard roll insulation, there are baffles you can install to allow the air in while still insulating around. I had to install vents all along one side of the roof on a house I purchased about a year ago because they not only blocked with insulation, but also blocked off entirely with a fascia board. Don't know how some people even call themselves roofers or contractors.
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September 11, 2018, 02:56:33 AM
 #28

I'll have them come out again to check. All soffits have been opened and 1300 CFM in the gable.

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June 03, 2019, 05:19:17 AM
Last edit: June 09, 2019, 11:43:40 AM by frodocooper
 #29

I know this is old as hell but i pulled the trigger on this today: https://quietcoolsystems.com/garage-fan/. Specifically the GA ES-1500 model.

I know the fan is spendy but again this will keep the integrity of garage for home resale if/when that occurs.

Pulled the trigger since summer is here, price is pumping, and I don't want to turn units off mid day and should able add a couple more units with out worry.

Hopefully some pics when unit arrives and installed.

Fan is in and will need to install the other garage door vent as the house and yard door want to draw closed. Currently the door is lifted less than an inch to allow more air but temps from UI don't show over 85C mid day at 80F outside. Not sure what ambient in the garage is but will have sensor in a couple weeks. Hoping this will hold three more units if I'm lucky and will look to vent through the side of the house by fall/winter if I still don't want to touch the roof.

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