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Author Topic: Announcing GekkoScience's new USB stick miner, the aptly-named NewPac  (Read 27902 times)
House Xylander
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November 21, 2018, 04:39:13 AM
 #101

With these sticks, a little bit of cooling goes a long long way. Note that the uncooled 100MHz power draw and the slightly-cooled 200MHz power draw are pretty much the same. My six 650MHz sticks (drawing 14W each) were collectively cooled by a single 12V/200mA fan.

Also, note that these guys can be sensitive to extended overheating. Bake the chips too much and they may never work right again.

I had 2 NewPacs in a plugable with 2 12v fans (powered separately) in a push/pull set up. The highest I had them at was 200MHz where they were showing the same instances. Have stepped down from there having never touched the volt adjustment from stock.

Sipolar is in NY customs hoping to have it early next week then I will be purchasing more of these to fill it up.

Thinking about modifying an extra L3 chassis(if the Siploar will fit inside) to make a wind tunnel-ish type setup. Thoughts or suggestions?
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November 21, 2018, 04:58:45 AM
 #102

I guess a rule of thumb, maybe pun intended, is if I can't hold heat sink for five seconds it needs down clocks or cooling. The six two packs I have now just have a simple case fan cooling them. Look forward to adding these in.

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sidehack (OP)
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November 21, 2018, 02:13:36 PM
 #103

Admittedly the lightweight fan was barely enough cooling for those six sticks; it only worked as well as it did because my shop's ambient temperature is like 60 degrees right now. Really should have had more for long-term safety.

That's a good rule of thumb. When we had a temp sensor on some early test sticks, VH noted issues starting when the [cooler than the chips and heatsink] PCB reached about 120F.

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419mining
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November 22, 2018, 02:58:35 PM
Last edit: November 23, 2018, 03:45:12 AM by frodocooper
 #104

This post is addressed at a few previous ones

do i need to simply disable it or some other remedy?

Unfortunately, there is not alot of options for the Intel USB 3 bug. You can try running the sticks on the USB 2.0 side but that doesnt always work. the USB2 would usually be the ports with the black inner piece apposed to the blue inner piece (USB3). most case front ones are, they have the smaller connector on the motherboard.

I ended up having to use a different PC completely. (admittedly, the first was a laptop and all the ports tied back to the USB3 controller.)

With these sticks, a little bit of cooling goes a long long way. Note that the uncooled 100MHz power draw and the slightly-cooled 200MHz power draw are pretty much the same. My six 650MHz sticks (drawing 14W each) were collectively cooled by a single 12V/200mA fan.

Also note that these guys can be sensitive to extended overheating. Bake the chips too much and they may never work right again.

if your running a single stick, it will run at 100 Mhz passively cooled, we test all our sticks this way because most people that buy from us, buy single sticks and dont understand or care to read. They just plug it in and throw out the instructions.
If you increase quantity or speed, they HAVE to be actively cooled and a handful of "sensitive" sticks require active cooling even at 100Mhz.

Sipolar is in NY customs hoping to have it early next week then I will be purchasing more of these to fill it up.

Thinking about modifying an extra L3 chassis(if the Siploar will fit inside) to make a wind tunnel-ish type setup. Thoughts or suggestions?

While I like the SiPolar 10port, I prefer the Plugable 7 port (and not just beaause we sell them). It's half the cost and will run 4 sticks and USB fans reliably at most speeds. (same one SideHack used in the first post pictures)
I'll be doing some testing this weekend of the SiPolar to see how many and at what speed it can reliably run before we start to see degradation.

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November 23, 2018, 11:53:05 PM
Last edit: November 24, 2018, 10:09:33 AM by frodocooper
 #105

This post is addressed at a few previous ones

[...]

Thank you for the feedback, I ended up hooking up the plugable into a small GPU rig. Between that move and the recent VH update I am seeing far fewer instances of "missing nonces" and "reset".



While were at it, ours is 'BLACKFRIDAY2018' for 10% off entire store order as well.

Black Friday sale today @ ASICPUPPY.COM. Use Promo Code: "BLACKFRIDAY" for 15% off your order.

I've got Newpac units in stock!

NewPacs orders placed, thank you for the heads-up on the discounts.

Grabbed a new Plugable as well just in case your Siploar testing results sway me.



Admittedly the lightweight fan was barely enough cooling for those six sticks; it only worked as well as it did because my shop's ambient temperature is like 60 degrees right now. Really should have had more for long-term safety.

That's a good rule of thumb. When we had a temp sensor on some early test sticks, VH noted issues starting when the [cooler than the chips and heatsink] PCB reached about 120F.

While my ambient temp in my home office is closer to 72F, I have all the excess heat blowing out through the vent cap of the roof.

That was one of the reasons I was looking to build a push/pull tube using the Sipolar to keep them as cool as possible given my environment.

I know it is an expensive idea, but I wondered if or how these would perform in an immersion tank.
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November 24, 2018, 02:17:37 AM
 #106

I find driving the air downward helps cool the sticks and the hub I use since most of them have metal cases. I imagine I'm stressing my shitty hub but the cooler the better eh.

We're not having a sale, but if your grouping up or buying 10 or more you'll be happy with pricing. Wink

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Morlok8k
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November 26, 2018, 10:08:17 PM
 #107

Hey, can I get the measurements of the Newpac?

I know it is exactly 1 inch across, but I cant remember how long the PCB is and how long the heatsink is.

I'd measure it myself, but it will be a few days before I'm at home and can do so.
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November 26, 2018, 11:38:37 PM
Last edit: November 26, 2018, 11:54:01 PM by frodocooper
Merited by frodocooper (3)
 #108

the heat sink is
1" wide (same as the PCB),
1 9/16" long
1/2" tall
there is a slight gap between the heatsink and the PCB (thickness of chips) about 1/32" of an inch.

the PCB (without the USB port)
1" wide
3 1/8" long
1/16" tall

the USB port is
5/8" long
and usb port sized for length and width Smiley

*** Checkout the latest in GekkoScience Tech  - Order NOW: use 'Gekkoship' coupon for free US shipping***
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November 26, 2018, 11:59:49 PM
Last edit: November 27, 2018, 12:02:37 AM by frodocooper
 #109

[...]

Hahaha, thanks very much!!!
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November 27, 2018, 10:31:18 PM
Last edit: November 28, 2018, 09:33:18 AM by frodocooper
 #110

With these sticks, a little bit of cooling goes a long long way. Note that the uncooled 100MHz power draw and the slightly-cooled 200MHz power draw are pretty much the same. My six 650MHz sticks (drawing 14W each) were collectively cooled by a single 12V/200mA fan.

Also note that these guys can be sensitive to extended overheating. Bake the chips too much and they may never work right again.

I was running my 8 at 250mhz with cooling and my raspberry must have locked up.
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November 29, 2018, 08:38:29 PM
Last edit: November 30, 2018, 12:45:05 AM by frodocooper
 #111

Unfortunately, there is not alot of options for the Intel USB 3 bug. You can try running the sticks on the USB 2.0 side but that doesnt always work. the USB2 would usually be the ports with the black inner piece apposed to the blue inner piece (USB3). most case front ones are, they have the smaller connector on the motherboard.

I ended up having to use a different PC completely. (admittedly, the first was a laptop and all the ports tied back to the USB3 controller.)

I have the same intel USB 3.0 controller on two of my high end laptops, and have never experienced this problem. I have used powered USB2.0 and USB3.0 hubs, and have had them plugged into both USB2.0 and USB3.0 ports on the laptop. USB3.0 ports and cables will always have a blue piece of plastic in at least one end of them. USB 2.0 ports should have either a white or black piece of plastic in at least one end of them.

While I like the SiPolar 10port, I prefer the Plugable 7 port (and not just beaause we sell them). It's half the cost and will run 4 sticks and USB fans reliably at most speeds. (same one SideHack used in the first post pictures)
I'll be doing some testing this weekend of the SiPolar to see how many and at what speed it can reliably run before we start to see degradation.

I recently purchased the ICONE/SiPolar 120 Watt 10-Port USB2.0 hub, and have had the Plugable USB3.0 7-Port hub for a while now. I also prefer the Plugable over the ICONE/SiPolar hub, and get much better results from it! After having used both hubs running NewPac sticks for several days now, I would definitely recommend the Plugable 7-Port USB3.0 hub over any other hub I have tried. Please note, I have never used any of the hubs offered by klintay, but I have heard his hubs work very well for running these sticks!


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minerbobbert
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December 04, 2018, 05:47:52 AM
 #112

With these sticks, a little bit of cooling goes a long long way. Note that the uncooled 100MHz power draw and the slightly-cooled 200MHz power draw are pretty much the same. My six 650MHz sticks (drawing 14W each) were collectively cooled by a single 12V/200mA fan.

Also note that these guys can be sensitive to extended overheating. Bake the chips too much and they may never work right again.

So is there a failsafe anyone has figured out for this? I can't monitor the miners 24/7. If the fan goes kaputsky for whatever reason and suddenly the temp spikes, is there any way to tell it to turn off instead of roasting itself alive?
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December 04, 2018, 09:01:03 PM
Last edit: December 04, 2018, 11:45:22 PM by frodocooper
 #113

So is there a failsafe anyone has figured out for this? I can't monitor the miners 24/7. If the fan goes kaputsky for whatever reason and suddenly the temp spikes, is there any way to tell it to turn off instead of roasting itself alive?

To the best of my knowledge, this would not be possible using Windows OS. I would stay away from cheap USB powered fans, and use something much more reliable. Personally, I use a nice 6" fan I picked up at my local ACE Hardware store, and this fan on Amazon is almost just like mine: http://a.co/d/hD9RkyR. It wasn't the least expensive fan, but you get what you pay for I guess.


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minefarmbuy
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December 05, 2018, 01:36:45 AM
 #114

I thought that these would stop hashing if temperature became an issue (?).

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sidehack (OP)
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December 05, 2018, 01:52:30 AM
 #115

Technically every miner will stop hashing when temperature becomes an issue. Whether that's a destructive process depends on the miner. These have no temperature-measuring mechanism, or it'd be visible in cgminer.

Cool, quiet and up to 1TH pod miner, on sale now!
Currently in development - 200+GH USB stick; 6TH volt-adjustable S1/3/5 upgrade kit
Server PSU interface boards and cables. USB and small-scale miners. Hardware hosting, advice and odd-jobs. Supporting the home miner community since 2013 - http://www.gekkoscience.com
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December 05, 2018, 06:48:18 PM
 #116

Technically every miner will stop hashing when temperature becomes an issue. Whether that's a destructive process depends on the miner. These have no temperature-measuring mechanism, or it'd be visible in cgminer.

I have a fan directly on them and a cold unheated garage.
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December 09, 2018, 04:21:20 AM
Last edit: December 10, 2018, 12:18:21 AM by frodocooper
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 #117

I was overthinking my L3 cooling project.

Pulled the BB off the controller and plugged it in and the fans stay running at 70-80% I'm guessing. The L3 fans are very quiet compared to S9's in the shop.

The temperature on the exhaust is holding at 75F and the ambient temperature in the room is 73F. Need to get a laser thermometer for more accurate readings.

I have 7 NewPacs at 200MHz - 860mV on the newest VH release and I'm averaging 452gh/s.
https://i63.tinypic.com/35k0flz.jpg
https://i64.tinypic.com/2el4fpx.jpg

My small GPU rig is only utilizing the 24 pin and 4 molex connections to the fans on the rig from the PSU. I'm using one of the PCI-E connections to power the L3 controller. The GPU's and risers are all powered by an APW3++ making it much quieter in the house. The Linux machine is running the cgminer session.

The whole setup is connected to a pair of APC 1000's just like most the other computers in the house.

Now "WE" feel comfortable leaving these running 24/7.
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December 11, 2018, 03:32:24 PM
Last edit: December 12, 2018, 01:41:58 AM by frodocooper
 #118

Code:
Worker Name:	Work Diff	:Last Share	Shares	:Diff	:Share Rate	«Elapsed	:Invalid	Block %	:Hash Rate
bronxnua.1 644 2s 120,165 57,389,200 976.97GHs 10m 54s 0.047% 0.002% 1.05THs
Total: 1 (1 active workers) 120,165 57,389,200 976.97GHs 0.047% 0.002% 1.05THs

I have 16 running at 300mhz with a fan on top of them keeping them cool.

I got the sipolar 20 port 3.0 hub that feeds 2.1a per port.  works with my oddo board great.

Nice so far.
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December 15, 2018, 06:48:58 AM
 #119

I know this is not exactly the right forum, but 90% of our customers are here. 419Mining.com now offers Loyalty rewards for purchases moving forward. If you purchased from me recently, newpacs or accessories, send me a DM so I can credit your account. We are also offering points for any reviews left on the site. (only verified purchases can leave reviews)

*** Checkout the latest in GekkoScience Tech  - Order NOW: use 'Gekkoship' coupon for free US shipping***
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December 16, 2018, 12:59:22 AM
Last edit: December 16, 2018, 11:00:50 AM by frodocooper
Merited by minefarmbuy (1)
 #120

I just got my Newpac up and running. Simple setup, especially since this is my first time. I'm doing an average of 40 Gh/s set at 175.00 MHz with a fan on it. My USB hub arrives tomorrow and I plan to buy three more on ebay plus another fan. Here's a pic of my stats:

https://res.cloudinary.com/latvwsyes/image/upload/v1544921915/50_oqbdtq.png
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