S15 doesn't power on

[rasmukri]

So I went full retard this morning… my housing complex has quiet hours 2200-0600 and someone made a complaint for my miners so for the last few days now I have to unplug them at night.
I have 3x S9 and 3x S15 the S9 run off 120v and the S15 on 240v. When I plugged them in this morning I plugged one S15 with the 120v plug and it turned on and I went back to bed till like 5 min later I heard the breaker trip and I went to investigate.
Now my S15 will not power on at all nothing no lights or fans. Is there any cheap way to solve this? Or how do I go about trying to fix it?

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[favebook]

Try unplugging it for 30min and then plugging it with new power cords and different power outlets (PREFERABLY 220/240v).

If that does not work. Open up the machine, check if any heatsink is loose or dropped and check for burned marks on hashboards.

Then, try plugging only one hashboard and turn on the unit, if that does not work, it's either PSU or control board that's dead. My guess would be PSU at that point.


Also, I am not sure if you should even run S15 at 120v in the first place...

[rasmukri]

I tried waiting hours before plugging it into the proper 240v plug but nothing. You are correct the S15 does NOT run on 120v and isn't designed to hence the full retard moment this morning.
I pulled it apart and it seems the S15 can't do one board at a te like the S9 because it has a metal bar the connects all the boards at once not individual plugs.
Is there any user reparable parts on the PSU for the S15? I'm handy with a soldering iron, if someone knows where to check volts at I can diagnose the parts.
Or where I can buy a new PSU for the S15 on the cheap preferably.

[philipma1957]

I tried waiting hours before plugging it into the proper 240v plug but nothing. You are correct the S15 does NOT run on 120v and isn't designed to hence the full retard moment this morning.
I pulled it apart and it seems the S15 can't do one board at a te like the S9 because it has a metal bar the connects all the boards at once not individual plugs.
Is there any user reparable parts on the PSU for the S15? I'm handy with a soldering iron, if someone knows where to check volts at I can diagnose the parts.
Or where I can buy a new PSU for the S15 on the cheap preferably.

I may have one.  Are you in the USA?

I am driving to my farm this friday.

I can check.  If would be new if I have it.

[rasmukri]

I may have one.  Are you in the USA?

I am driving to my farm this friday.

I can check.  If would be new if I have it.

Yeah I'm in CA, let me know.

[favebook]

I tried waiting hours before plugging it into the proper 240v plug but nothing. You are correct the S15 does NOT run on 120v and isn't designed to hence the full retard moment this morning.
I pulled it apart and it seems the S15 can't do one board at a te like the S9 because it has a metal bar the connects all the boards at once not individual plugs.
Is there any user reparable parts on the PSU for the S15? I'm handy with a soldering iron, if someone knows where to check volts at I can diagnose the parts.
Or where I can buy a new PSU for the S15 on the cheap preferably.

I think you can still unscrew two boards from those plates and run it with one board.

I had a similar problem like you where my T2TZ wouldn't run at all after one hot night where it just turned off, I opened and inspected everything and it seemed okay, until I fully opened PSU and saw broken part in it (not sure how it is called). I am still yet to repair that PSU. My electrician says that repair can cost between 1USD and 100USD (yeah, I know, rather helpful guy there!) depending on what was damaged. Might be cheaper for you to order a new PSU if phil cannot help you.

[philipma1957]

I checked bitmain they have them in stock.

https://shop.bitmain.com/product/detail?pid=00020190418172319945PvKR86Kg0685


98 + shipping.

My records show I purchased a spare  s15/t15 and a spare s17/t17

So when I get to Clifton they should be there someplace.  I will know tomorrow night.

Only have the s17/t17 psu up in clifton.


Wonder how you burned the fuse.  20amp 250 volts = 5000 watts

[BitMaxz]

If you can disassemble the power supply try to find the fuse it might be cut off after the breaker has tripped.

I don't I have this power supply and gear so if you can provide a screenshot or pic of the motherboard of PSU maybe we can find the right parts that you can check with a multitester.

Start from the power cord if there is a cut line you need to replace it, if not then the issue is on the PSU internal so you will need to disassemble the unit to check the fuses and burned parts or might be some shorted capacitors.

I would like to add this link below as a reference, if you found any of these on the PSU check them with the multitester.
- https://electricaltechnology.org/2014/11/fuse-types-of-fuses.html

[Pendrak]

Before try anything left the equipment disconected few hours, the caps are charge and you need left then discharge (there is always  resistence(s) in the circuit that help with this), is a slow process, just test then with the miltimeter to see if there is still any voltage, don't try to discharge then making a short, you will get spark and smoke, not big but scary and will short the life of the caps.

You will find the fuse inside a heat shrink, The color is black. Also, try to check the VDR and the Bridge, there is a lot of info on youtube, all you need is a Digital Multimeter.

I just take this photo from a APW8 (is from a T15):

[mikeywith]

98 + shipping.

So that will be $130-140 shipped, not sure if it's worthy for merely a 28th consuming 57w each, after the power bill S15 will make 2$ a day (best case scenario), that is close to 3 months only to ROI the PSU, and with difficulty rising those 3 months could very easily become 4 or 5, I wouldn't pay that much for an S15 PSU, if he could find one shipped for 100$ or less, that might make sense, but paying 130-140 bucks and having to wait a couple of weeks to get the PSU from china isn't something I would do.

[rasmukri]

[...]

I found that fuse and as expected it was shot to shit. It says 20A 250V where can I try to find one like this? It's not like we still have radio shack and I can go browsing the drawers for fuses.

I can't get the picture thing to work, but here is a pic of the fuse that I need to replace: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YwLbm2ivypvZZU09QAE_g9YbYFNATH80/view?usp=drivesdk

[Pendrak]

Test the other components, when the fuse is gone, normally other components are gone (not all the time), check the Bridge rectifier, those are 4 diodes, easy to test.

Those are slow-blow ceramic fuse, i just check amazon and there is plenty of those.

You connect a PSU that work at 220V, in a 110V socket, it will draw more current for compensate the lack of voltage, whats why the fuse is gone, and posibile other components like the bridge is gone too.

(this came from the ohm law, is for DC current but is good for this example)

P = VxI
Power = Voltage x Current
(Power in Watts)
Power = 220v x I
Power = 110v x I

Lets say Power is 1600 watts

I = 1600 watts / 110V= 14.54 amp > I = 1600 watts / 220V=7.27 amp

In other words you need the double of current to compensate the lack of voltage, this can fxck the PSU cables (internal and external), fuse, Bridge rectifier, thermistors, etc.

(i repeat, the ohm laws are not the same for DC and AC, i just simplified to do a example).

This overcurrent normally damage the primary protection of the PSU.

By the way if you do the inverse, lets say connect a 110V PSU on a 220V outlet will do a overvolt, again the primary protections from the PSU are the ones that suffer.

Just hope is only the fuse.

[mikeywith]

I found that fuse and as expected it was shot to shit. It says 20A 250V where can I try to find one like this? It's not like we still have radio shack and I can go browsing the drawers for fuses.

Here is the image of the fuse



And I guess these once will work https://www.amazon.com/Divine-Lighting-Slow-Blow-Ceramic-MDA20A/dp/B004I36FJA, but as the previous post says, you must confirm that it's only the fuse that needs replacement, or simply risk 5$ and directly test the PSU ( that's what I would do because aside from a blown fuse I can't test the other advanced stuff).

[Pendrak]

that's what I would do because aside from a blown fuse I can't test the other advanced stuff.

Bridge Rectifier testing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11JPy4t36oo

Varistor And Thermistor
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yIrdCKlfck&t=341s

Usually these ones get burned (the smoke inside usually came from this components, thats their work), is easily to see when they are damage.

If you don't want lost the fuse you need this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5sxhBT2kolI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRFRwOnLsZI

[philipma1957]

I Only have the s17/t17 psu up in clifton.

I Wonder how you burned the fuse.  20amp 250 volts = 5000 watts

maybe you did a brown out  and were feeding 180 volts into the psu that can burn the fuse.

[rasmukri]

Well I had some stuff come up but I ordered a fuse off Amazon and I'll test the other stuff next weekend and see if I can get it back up and running.
Thanks for all the help in how to test and what could be broken.

[Pendrak]

rasmukri can you share a photo of the PSU (APW8), i am closing my PSU (after some repair) and need to know where i put the fan cables, i forgot make a photo (like i always do) before work on it. There is none photo from inside the APW8 PSU on the net.

By the way don't forget tell us what happen.

[mikeywith]

rasmukri can you share a photo of the PSU (APW8), i am closing my PSU (after some repair) and need to know where i put the fan cables, i forgot make a photo (like i always do) before work on it.

If rasmukri forgets to send you the picture or simply isn't willing to do so, do let me know via a PM or simply mention my username in this thread, I think I know someone who has a dead S15 i might be able to get you the picture you need.

[rasmukri]

So I finally got to fixing the fuse and I plugged it in and no dice. I didn't test the fuse beforhand but I'm pretty sure it popped instantly because there was like 1.7v on the capacitors when I was pulling it back apart. I also plugged it in as just a PSU not connected to the miner.

Where are the bridge rectifier and are the varistor things? The 6 blue things right near the fuse? I can't test what I don't know to look for. Can someone point it out on a picture or something.

Also for the guy that wanted a pic of the fan cable routing I dono as I pulled mine out when I was working on it and don't remember the exact location. It shouldn't be that big of a deal to where they get routed just look to block as little airflow as possible.

I have identified that the bridge rectifier is bad. And I am working on pulling it out but I'm looking on mouser and Google to find a new one but I'm not sure on the specs. It reads that it's 2506 but there is like 50 and they all look similar and have slightly different specs. Which one do I need?

https://www.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Discrete-Semiconductors/Diodes-Rectifiers/Bridge-Rectifiers/_/N-ax1mf?keyword=2506&No=25

Bump

Anyone know the specs on the bridge rectifier?

[Pendrak]

Your best friend

Velleman VTDESOL3U Vacuum Desoldering Pump with Heater 30W

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B88FRME