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Author Topic: How to run Antminer T17 with detached PSU for liquid cooling  (Read 79 times)
Svitakwilliam (OP)
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March 15, 2021, 10:48:34 PM
 #1

Hi everyone and thanks in advance for your help. I am a complete noob on this site so please forgive me if I posted this incorrectly.

Since summer is approaching I need a way to quiet and cool my Antminer T17. I was considering 2 options. My preferred would be to liquid cool since this seems most efficient, but my second would be the modified cooler method to help with sound. In either case I am not sure what to do with the PSU. The T17 uses an attached PSU. I can easily remove this, but there are 2 metal bars that screw into the PSU and slide into clips on each hash board. Can anyone tell me what these bars are for? If I install the miner in a cooler I can vent the fans properly but not the PSU. For liquid cooling I would prefer the PSU be outside the liquid and just mount the hash boards into the liquid, but how would I go about doing that with these bars attached? I believe the manual says they are copper although they must be plates. I could make my own copper bar, but really don’t want to mess this thing up. Only had it a month and already lost 1 board and had to repair another myself. Really want to get my ROI at the very least.

Thanks again for any help with this.

Bill
mikeywith
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March 16, 2021, 12:05:24 AM
 #2

but there are 2 metal bars that screw into the PSU and slide into clips on each hash board. Can anyone tell me what these bars are for?
I would prefer the PSU be outside the liquid and just mount the hash boards into the liquid, but how would I go about doing that with these bars attached?

Since the hashboards on T17 suck a lot of power, they had to use busbars instead of wires, of course also to improve the efficiency, your method will work as long as it's just a theory, but when applied in a real-world, it will probably fail, you see the output of that PSU is DC, and it outputs anywhere from 14.5 to 21 volts, DC connections are meant to stay as short as possible and it's hard to transmit, well the main reason why Edison lost the war of the currents 140 years ago.

If you measure the voltage on the furthest hashboard which is usually chain 2 ( in 0,1,2) you will see that it has slightly less voltage than the other two, by lengthening those busbars you will cause the voltage to drop even further, and since you want the miner to be inside a box and the PSU outside, then we are talking about a quite a bit of distance which could result in a very low voltage output which would indeed cause problems.

Now depending on how smart your design is, and say you won't add much distance, you might get away with it  

Quote
I believe the manual says they are copper although they must be plates.

They are plated copper busbar, which is exactly what you have to use, you could use any plated copper bars you find but when you will have to tin/plate them after you make the wholes for the screws.

Honestly speaking, I would ditch the idea altogether, just throw the whole miner inside the liquid.

NotFuzzyWarm and HagssFIN would probably add more info and/or correct me if I made a mistake somewhere since they know about electcity much more than I do.

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Svitakwilliam (OP)
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March 16, 2021, 01:43:19 AM
 #3

Thanks for a quick reply. At least I now know what these bars are for and know not to modify them. Definitely not worth the trouble of making my own and having to plate them, as it would be easier to place the whole miner in the liquid. The cooler idea was going to be quick and dirty while I worked on getting the parts for liquid cooling, but  now that’s not seeming  so practical.

I have one question about liquid cooling that you might know the answer to. I’ve seen it done both ways, but should I leave the fans attached, or remove them. Fans spinning in oil also doesn’t seem practical to me, but I couldn’t find clear answers on this one.

Thanks again for the help.
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March 16, 2021, 02:41:04 AM
Last edit: March 20, 2021, 10:48:11 AM by frodocooper
 #4

I really have no personal experience on this but most set-ups I have seen do remove the fans, and then you will need to use a fan emulator to trick the miner into thinking that fans are spinning at the needed RPMs because the miner won't start before the fan-check is passed, or you will use custom firmware like Vnish where you can disable the fan-check test, but of course, you pay 2-3% fees for the firmware.

I have seen a few videos on youtube before that look solid, the majority are people who do it for the views where they put a miner in a fish tank and stuff like that, but some solid operations do it professionally, just dig a bit deeper and you will find examples.

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Svitakwilliam (OP)
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March 16, 2021, 08:26:13 PM
Last edit: March 20, 2021, 10:47:54 AM by frodocooper
 #5

Removing the fans and utilizing the emulators seems to be the best practice. I think I am going to go that route.

Thanks again for your input.
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