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Author Topic: 1166 Hasboard not working  (Read 191 times)
JessieJames13 (OP)
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March 19, 2024, 05:10:40 PM
Last edit: March 30, 2024, 10:42:14 PM by JessieJames13
 #1

Ive tried the hasboard in other 1166's and it doesnt work.

Is this bracket not being secured to the board enough to cause a problem in itself?
I assumed its just used mechanically to secure it, but I dont know what else to troubleshoot.
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BitMaxz
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March 20, 2024, 12:10:07 AM
Merited by mikeywith (4), hugeblack (2)
 #2

What bracket exactly? Are you talking about the busbar if it's not fixed or detached then the hasboard won't run because that is the power source.

If I'm wrong maybe have a different issue check for rust and corrosion? Try to clean it first use Thinner or Isopropyl if there is rust you can try to use sandpaper to clean them.

If the issue is still the same, check the API logs post it here, and let's analyze the issue.

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mikeywith
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March 20, 2024, 12:18:44 AM
Merited by hugeblack (4)
 #3

I did not look inside an avalon 1166 but my guess is, there are no screws to attach the hashboards to the chassis, the only two screws are the power terminals (negative and positive) which supply DC power from the PSU to the hashbosrd.

In the old models, power used to be supplied via a 6 pin connector, now it is a busbar connected directly, but it could be something else you are talking about so please post some pictures.

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March 20, 2024, 07:45:39 PM
Merited by hugeblack (2)
 #4

positive and negative mean 2 connections

you lost one of the 2 connections you need both.

how did it fall off?


did you whack it  or drop it?




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March 22, 2024, 01:33:34 AM
 #5

The part circled red is what has came off.
Is this just mechanical strength or for power?



That is your DC power positive terminal, without it, there is no power feeding into the hashboard, how else do you think the hashboard is receiving power from the PSU? you will need to resolder that terminal, and make sure it's done by a professional, these things need to be tight for voltage to be in the required range, if it's loose, you could toast the board, be careful while dealing with it, the fact that it fell suggests that it was overheating, that's common if you didn't tighten the screws, loose terminals = heat.

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philipma1957
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March 22, 2024, 02:44:14 AM
 #6

positive and negative mean 2 connections

you lost one of the 2 connections you need both.

how did it fall off?


thanks for the replies guys.

It hasnt fell off, its still in the busbar with the screw in it, its unnattached from the hashboard.

That is your DC power positive terminal, without it, there is no power feeding into the hashboard, how else do you think the hashboard is receiving power from the PSU? you will need to resolder that terminal, and make sure it's done by a professional, these things need to be tight for voltage to be in the required range, if it's loose, you could toast the board, be careful while dealing with it, the fact that it fell suggests that it was overheating, that's common if you didn't tighten the screws, loose terminals = heat.


I assumed the power was via some of the other molex type connectors, didnt need to trace every connection in the past.

ive tried applying solder at 435 degrees, the solder already stuck to the current connector and the hashboard doesnt turn to liquid.

Are there any guides on this

so the part appears to have gotten so warm it melted the solder. thus coming loose.

if the screws were tight enough.
 some other reason overheated the area melting the solder.

I am thinking that soldering it back won't fix it as there is a hidden short that gets it too hot.

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BitMaxz
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March 22, 2024, 07:05:15 PM
 #7

the leftover residue on the hashboard pad doesn't liquidify even at 500degree c.

I think that's too hot it might damage parts near the terminal.
Would you mind showing us what tool you use to melt the solder lead from the board?
If it's just a soldering iron it can't melt you need a hotair rework station with a soldering iron as support to melt the soldering lead from the board and connector. You also need to add soldering lead and flux to melt them easily.

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March 22, 2024, 08:15:04 PM
 #8

As BizMax said, it takes more than just a soldering iron to do it. The power planes the terminal was attached to is very thick copper that sucks away heat very very quickly. A hot air station to assist the iron in heating the board itself a must and the iron must be good for at least 60W, preferably 100W.

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