[WTS] 8x stack of Bitburner Fury boards, heatsinks, fans, 1000W EVGA Gold PSU

[warhawk187]

Lets try this again:

I am auctioning off my stack of 8x BitBurner Fury boards. 4 of them perfectly has at 50Gh/s each with the settings I provided. 1 of them strangely hashes at 12-14Gh/s, I suspect an improperly mounted chip is the issue, which can be fixed with the proper tools, but still hashes nonetheless. Finally 3 of them, which were hashing perfectly at 50Gh/s each, suddenly stopped turning on a few weeks ago, no visual evidence of damage to the board from what I can tell. My best guess is the fuses need to be replaced but I do not have the tools/experience to repair them.

If you can repair these you can achieve up to 400Gh/s from this stack. 3 of the boards have broken/loose USB ports, but the 3x CANBUS cables that are included help to at least get the units hashing.

Whats included:

8x Bitburner Fury boards with heatsinks and fans attached. Saving you time with assembly.
5x Stock 90mm fans (1 extra was sent with my order)
3x CANBUS cables of different lengths to attach units with faulty USB ports to those with working ones
1x EVGA Supernova 1000W 80+ Gold PSU with all original packaging
All mounting hardware to attach them, with extra pieces, but I found best results when they are paired off to prevent overheating issues if overclocked.

Sorry, NO USB cables are included, but they're cheap on Newegg/Amazon/eBay.

I also have a 1000W EVGA 80+ Gold PSU in great condition with less than 6 months of use. It has all original packaging, has been dusted weekly, protected with a fan filter, and is still under warranty for another 9 years. Pictures available upon request.

Auction Terms

The auction will lstart now and end at 12:00pm EST (UTC-5:00) on Saturday, April 5th. Payment must be made within 3 hours, or I will sell the units to the next highest bidder. Items are sold AS-IS, and no returns please, I am being as honest with the description as possible and have a good selling reputation here and on eBay, and BitMit before it closed down.

Bidding will start at BTC0.4 and all bids must be in increments of BTC0.1 and must be posted here to be fair. I am open to buy it now offers via PM as well, but post them here for the sake of transparency.

Buy it now price: BTC3

WILLING TO SHIP WORLDWIDE BUT YOU MUST SEND ME YOUR PAID LABEL & ANY CUSTOMS FORMS IF OUTSIDE OF USA

Pics available soon, and more upon request.

Happy bidding.

Thank you.

[warhawk187]

ADDENDUM:

Escrow is accepted and there is a price reserve threshold, which I will announce here if it met. Willing to part out as well. Thanks.

[hephaist0s]

Bullshit. Your previous auction only got to .5BTC, which you cancelled because there were no shipping terms (after already extending the  end date once -- it was supposed to end today at noon), only to announce here that international buyers pay all shipping -- certainly you could have simply announced that in the previous thread. You're just stalling to get more BTC for your broken boards, which I certainly understand, but it's unfair to bidders.

Essentially, you've already changed the end date twice.

It seem this is an auction where the seller won't sell until he's assured of the price he wants well in advance of auction close. As long as we're clear on that, no worries.

[warhawk187]

Bullshit. Your previous auction only got to .5BTC, which you cancelled because there were no shipping terms (after already extending the  end date once -- it was supposed to end today at noon), only to announce here that international buyers pay all shipping -- certainly you could have simply announced that in the previous thread. You're just stalling to get more BTC for your broken boards, which I certainly understand, but it's unfair to bidders.

Essentially, you've already changed the end date twice.

It seem this is an auction where the seller won't sell until he's assured of the price he wants well in advance of auction close. As long as we're clear on that, no worries.

Listen man,

I changed the dates because of personal matters that would prevent me from shipping the boards today. I also incorrectly stated the PSU that I was selling. I have 10 different kinds and in fact did not have the hardware as stated.

I am not even mining on these machines to 'bide time' and I've had successful auctions here before, so please stop these baseless accusations. I am just trying to auction off my hardware because I cannot fix it myself, but know others can.

[CaptEmulation]

I would prefer you start the auction at your reserve price to avoid unnecessary bids.

[sobe-it]

2 ant s1's can be had under 1.78 for 360-400+ gh/s no issues or bs. So if 4 work flawless and achieve ant speeds then this lot is worth at most the price of one ant. Noone will buy used hardware at full/max price and then the broken hardware isnt worth much because who knows what happened or what was attempted. I was watching the auction to bid and saw the shit hit the fan and walked away.

[hephaist0s]

2 ant s1's can be had under 1.78 for 360-400+ gh/s no issues or bs. So if 4 work flawless and achieve ant speeds then this lot is worth at most the price of one ant. Noone will buy used hardware at full/max price and then the broken hardware isnt worth much because who knows what happened or what was attempted. I was watching the auction to bid and saw the shit hit the fan and walked away.

+1

[warhawk187]

2 ant s1's can be had under 1.78 for 360-400+ gh/s no issues or bs. So if 4 work flawless and achieve ant speeds then this lot is worth at most the price of one ant. Noone will buy used hardware at full/max price and then the broken hardware isnt worth much because who knows what happened or what was attempted. I was watching the auction to bid and saw the shit hit the fan and walked away.

Nothing was attempted to repair them, hence why I am selling them all with a working PSU with a 9 year warranty remaining. You are comparing two completely different technologies that were released months apart. This is an auction thread and no more changes will be made to the sale terms. I am sorry I cannot control circumstances outside of this forum and seems my best attempts at transparency are still not enough. So be it.

If you want an Ant S1, I have 12 for sale as well. PM me if interested.

[hephaist0s]

ADDENDUM:

Escrow is accepted and there is a price reserve threshold, which I will announce here if it met. Willing to part out as well. Thanks.

I missed the part about the secret reserve price. Just start the auction there, please. At this point, it's unfair to hold a secret reserve price over our heads, since you've already changed the end time twice.

[techgeek]

Is your price negotiable or no?

[dozerz]

ill kick off at 0.4 but you should really start bidding at your magical secret reserve, pm it to me if you like.

[blackheart13]

.6

[squall1066]

0.8

[ZBC3]

About the three dead boards, do the lights come on or is there nothing when they are powered?

[CaptEmulation]

Another thing which would be very nice is if you can test 'F1' component at the edge of the board near the power connectors.  This is the fuse.  Take a multimeter or continuity checker and place on either end of F1.  If it reads as an open circuit (no beep from continuity checker) then the fuse is blown. 

[warhawk187]

About the three dead boards, do the lights come on or is there nothing when they are powered?

No lights go on, but they will send power to another board when the green power connectors are wired together. There are no visible signs of damage to the components nor was there ever a smell of anything burnt when they stopped working a couple weeks ago.

[warhawk187]

Another thing which would be very nice is if you can test 'F1' component at the edge of the board near the power connectors.  This is the fuse.  Take a multimeter or continuity checker and place on either end of F1.  If it reads as an open circuit (no beep from continuity checker) then the fuse is blown. 

I do not have one on hand, but will try to get one today and report back on my results. Would there be any visible difference from a working fuse? I thought that was most likely the culprit, but presume a blown fuse would at least look different than one that was working fine.

[warhawk187]

Is your price negotiable or no?

PM me an offer.

FYIThe reserve price threshold has been met to calm everyones nerves.

[warhawk187]

ADDENDUM:

Escrow is accepted and there is a price reserve threshold, which I will announce here if it met. Willing to part out as well. Thanks.

I missed the part about the secret reserve price. Just start the auction there, please. At this point, it's unfair to hold a secret reserve price over our heads, since you've already changed the end time twice.

Reserve price has been met. I don't understand why I got so much flak for having one, eBay and other BTC bidding sites have them...

[CaptEmulation]

Another thing which would be very nice is if you can test 'F1' component at the edge of the board near the power connectors.  This is the fuse.  Take a multimeter or continuity checker and place on either end of F1.  If it reads as an open circuit (no beep from continuity checker) then the fuse is blown. 

I do not have one on hand, but will try to get one today and report back on my results. Would there be any visible difference from a working fuse? I thought that was most likely the culprit, but presume a blown fuse would at least look different than one that was working fine.

I blew one fuse on a board by accidentally reversing the voltage polarity.  The fuse blew instantly, but there was no visible indication.  I had to use a continuity checker.  Since I was already powering the board through the screw terminals, I simply removed the fuse, soldered a bridge and then wired up a fuse to the hot wire going into the screw terminal.  I did this because my SMT gear was packed due to recent move.

Another alternative is if you have a battery, some wire and something to be powered by the battery (motor, bulb, buzzer).  This is just like grade-school science class.  Connect up your circuit to verify the circuit is closed and your indicator (motor, bulb, buzzer) is working.  Congratulations, you have just built a continuity tester!  Now, open the circuit (continuity is broken) and place one end of circuit on one end of F1 and the other end of the circuit on the other end of F1.  If the fuse is bad, then the circuit will remain an open and nothing happens.  If your electrical gizmo activates, then the fuse is fine.

Good luck with sale.