Power draw from my room

[redeyez21]

I'm getting 6 Antminer S1's tomorrow and I was wondering if I can put them all in the same room. Whether I've got enough power to draw from the sockets?

UK 240v circuit

thanks

[runlinux]

Maybe. Thats 2280w, or about 9.5Amps at 240v. Depends on the breaker in that room.

[redeyez21]

is there a way to find out buddy?

[ncsupanda]

is there a way to find out buddy?

Look at your breaker panel and see what kind type of breakers you're using.

[redeyez21]

thus my fuse box, says 80A

http://imgur.com/DUNxH5T

sorry its a link. I'm a noob lol

[Glizlack]

You need to find the specific circuit or circuits your room is on. It could work assuming you have 2 circuits or a 20 amp circuit.  I can't read the writing below the breakers sorry. Also important to know what country your in as well. As i am assuming a 20 amp circuit on usa power supply.

Steve

[redeyez21]

I live in a duplex in the UK, the fuse box says 80amp and 240v, 50hz

[Kluge]

I live in a duplex in the UK, the fuse box says 80amp and 240v, 50hz

Yes, but that's for the entire box (unless your house was previously a factory), which is useless. Flip the switches in there until the power in your room shuts off, then look at the number on the switch which flipped the power off. That's the #amps you can draw from your room. It's worth noting that in a good few places, it's not by room. In older construction especially, a switch handles many rooms, while in newer construction, a switch may only handle a portion of one room. In older construction, too, there may be something really goofy... like it handles a bedroom and a refrigerator. It's super-goofy here. My room's connected to part of daughter's room and one outlet in the living room.

If you have a bunch of nightlights or something, that's a good way to tell which outlets are handled by which switches. If you're really lucky, though, there'll be a paper index inside your breaker box which tells you which switches go to which rooms.

ETA: Oh, I just looked at your picture of... what the Hell is that? Lol... okay, I see now why you're having trouble with our questions.

ETA2: Googling it, looks like NSB06 is a standardized 6A breaker. 6A @ 240V = 1440W. Answer to question, then, is "no." You'll probably want to split them up among three rooms where there's little or (ideally) no electricity draw.

[redeyez21]

I have several labeled switches, i.e downstairs lights, smoke alarm, downstairs sockets and upstairs sockets (nsb32). Half of them say nsb06 but the sockets and lighting etc say nsb32

thanks for the help so far, you've been great

[Kluge]

I have several labeled switches, i.e downstairs lights, smoke alarm, downstairs sockets and upstairs sockets (nsb32). Half of them say nsb06 but the sockets and lighting etc say nsb32

thanks for the help so far, you've been great

That box is totally foreign to me. The number after nsb appears to always indicate the number of amps permitted. NSB16 would be 16A, and 16A*240V=3840W allowance. That'd be enough, but it looks like it's marked as going to the water heater, which I'm guessing must be electric if it has such a high-rated breaker. It may be a dedicated line which only services the water heater, too (as in, there're no other outlets connected to it).

I can't tell what the nsb32 breaker goes to. What's written under it?

[redeyez21]

The whole flat is electric, we don't have gas.

Thanks for all the input. Today is the day of reckoning, they're arriving.

NSB32 = upstairs sockets, hoping now that I have enough in the room as there is an electric heater (permanent) in there with a 13amp fuse in it.

[Kluge]

The whole flat is electric, we don't have gas.

Thanks for all the input. Today is the day of reckoning, they're arriving.

NSB32 = upstairs sockets, hoping now that I have enough in the room as there is an electric heater (permanent) in there with a 13amp fuse in it.

Almost definitely. Heater probably doesn't draw more than 8-10A at full load. Assuming on the high end, that brings you down to 22A. *240V=5280W. With a 70% reduction "to be safe," you're left with ~3,700W to split between the miners and whatever else you have up there - hopefully no window A/C units or dehumidifiers.

ETA: Lights could be significant. 10 incandescents would put you at ~450-800W consumption... 10 LEDs would be ~30-100W, CFL ~130-260W. Probably time to upgrade if still using incans.

[redeyez21]

what an informative and helpful guy - credit to the internet

Thanks

[Glizlack]

So did it work? I realised when i seen your breakers that it wasn't a Us style electric thats why i backed off. But its nice to see you got some good answer's. I was really surprised to see 6 amp breakers is that common in the UK?

Steve

[redeyez21]

yeah all is running fine, I'm running 4 at the min. Waiting for PSU for the other 2.

I think the total for my upstairs circuit is 32A, I take it that is broken down to each room? (I have 2 beds and 2 baths upstairs - extractor and heater that go unused in each bathroom)

Both rooms also have an electric heater in that alsp go unused (the whole house is elec. - post 2005 build). I opened the fuse box for the heater which had a 13amp fuse in it, which gave me more confidence.)



Hashing away now at 45-46c, everything's great - looking for the best pool now

[ajareselde]

dont be fooled just by fusebox, if your wires are thin in that circuit, they can heat up and melt, especialy on connection points.
this is the thing alot of ppl forget and get a surprice when they least expect

[Kluge]

dont be fooled just by fusebox, if your wires are thin in that circuit, they can heat up and melt, especialy on connection points.
this is the thing alot of ppl forget and get a surprice when they least expect

Possible. Seems less likely since it's leased. At least OP could sue landlord (or holding company) into bankruptcy if his face melted off.