[WTS] Custom power strip

[rjk]

ALL PSUs SOLD, see below for the custom power strip.

For sale are 3  2 power supplies.  ONE PSU REMAINING PLEASE NOTE! All of these have had their power cables changed to 15A 250V connectors, so I could plug them into my special high voltage power strip. I can ship the power cables to you with the special connector (pictured below), or I can ship with the connector removed and the stripped wires exposed. I can also ship without the cable if you want to provide your own. Please let me know. The connectors used are the P&S Legrand 6-15P plugs, and you can get them at your local home center. You can also get the "normal" 5-15P plugs at your home center if you wish to replace these. Pic:





UPDATE: I'm adding my special power strip that I built for this application in here. The details about it are as follows:

It uses these parts:
Raco modular metal boxes - you can remove the sides and bolt them together.
P&S Legrand plugs - chop the end off of your existing cords an bolt these on. 6-15P for 15 amps at 250V.
20 amp 250V outlets - HD doesn't carry 15A versions, but that's not a problem since it will work with both 15 and 20 amp plugs.
Sectional wall plates - 2 of these, they go on each end. HD doesn't have them.
Sectional wall plates - 4 of these, they go in the middle. HD doesn't have these either.
20A 250V 3-pin twistlock connector - L6-20P P&S Legrand.
25 feet of SJOOW 12AWG 3 conductor cable - Cerrowire.

It looks like this:



I'll sell it for $75  $45, and include the twistlock receptacle as well, that mates to the plug that is already on the end of the cord.



The first PSU is the 1300 watt Rosewill Lightning PSU, which has an 80plus Gold rating and active PFC. It includes all the detachable cables stored in the nylon pouch, and is guaranteed against DOA. It worked excellently while I used it for a large rig. Also, pretty colors. Asking $185  $175 with shipping. THIS PSU IS SOLD

The second PSU is the superb PC Power and Cooling Silencer 910 watt unit. It might be one of the last excellent PSUs that PCP&C made since they were eaten by OCZ. It will happily run at full power for as long as you want it to, and is SLI certified. It also has a 7 year warranty, although it will easily outlast that. It is 80plus Silver rated and has active PFC. Asking $105  $85 with shipping. THIS PSU IS SOLD

The third PSU is the Cooler Master GX 750w. It too is rated for 80plus with up to 85% efficiency, has active PFC, and I have had no issues with the 2 that I have had. Asking $60  $45 with shipping. THIS PSU IS SOLD

https://i.imgur.com/2in6s.jpg 1300 watt Rosewill Lightning (SOLD)

https://i.imgur.com/4kx5O.jpg
910 watt PC Power and Cooling Silencer (SOLD)

https://i.imgur.com/jwXcZ.jpg 750 watt Cooler Master GX750W (SOLD)

[rjk]

Bump, these are available for immediate shipment!

[rjk]

These are good as new. Perfect for someone getting started with a new rig, or for the seasoned builder adding to his collection. Prices lowered a bit, these are a great deal with no dust and hardly any use.

[rjk]

Bump for great prices!

[ssateneth]

I'm really curious about 250v.. I understand almost all PC power supplies can take anything from 100-264v and 50-60hz frequency without no problems and adjust automatically. On my circuit breaker box (uses 1 inch square d breakers), I have 2 empty slots left (they are adjacent to each other). My AC power is normally 110-118v depending on load according to my 2 kill a watts. Is there some sort of circuit breaker I can put in to make it double the voltage (calling it 250v, but its probably less)? Right now I'm pulling 19A + an unknown amount from a 20A 115v breaker, and I'm worried that I'll trip it or burn something out. I kind of want to reliably be able to pull 4000-5000 watts without being in danger of frying any wires or breakers or anything.

Also, I noticed my cords are pretty warm/hot. I got about 1125 watts going through a 14 guage cord on a surge protector/multi outlet/whatever you call them, and it's pretty hot. Assuming the multi outlet can also accept 250v (which it probably cant, not the correct plugin) and I run the same amount of watts on 250v, would the cord be cooler to the touch? Only ask since I heard less amps going through a cord means less heat.

Will running 250v and subsequently lower amps compared to 110v mean less lost power? I know PC power supplies like to have a higher input power for efficiency, just wondering if there will be other places for power to be leaked in the form of heat, such as cords, circuit breaker, outlets, etc

Sorry if I'm talking like a noob, I don't know how to describe the situation correctly. Also sorry for asking so many questions. I just feel I need to reliably supply more (and better) power to my rigs. drawing 2100 watts from a 15A 115v sockets sure feels wrong.. even though the circuit breaker was switched with a 20A so it doesnt trip so easily.

[rjk]

I'm really curious about 250v.. I understand almost all PC power supplies can take anything from 100-264v and 50-60hz frequency without no problems and adjust automatically. On my circuit breaker box (uses 1 inch square d breakers), I have 2 empty slots left (they are adjacent to each other). My AC power is normally 110-118v depending on load according to my 2 kill a watts. Is there some sort of circuit breaker I can put in to make it double the voltage (calling it 250v, but its probably less)? Right now I'm pulling 19A + an unknown amount from a 20A 115v breaker, and I'm worried that I'll trip it or burn something out. I kind of want to reliably be able to pull 4000-5000 watts without being in danger of frying any wires or breakers or anything.

Also, I noticed my cords are pretty warm/hot. I got about 1125 watts going through a 14 guage cord on a surge protector/multi outlet/whatever you call them, and it's pretty hot. Assuming the multi outlet can also accept 250v (which it probably cant, not the correct plugin) and I run the same amount of watts on 250v, would the cord be cooler to the touch? Only ask since I heard less amps going through a cord means less heat.

Will running 250v and subsequently lower amps compared to 110v mean less lost power? I know PC power supplies like to have a higher input power for efficiency, just wondering if there will be other places for power to be leaked in the form of heat, such as cords, circuit breaker, outlets, etc

Sorry if I'm talking like a noob, I don't know how to describe the situation correctly. Also sorry for asking so many questions. I just feel I need to reliably supply more (and better) power to my rigs. drawing 2100 watts from a 15A 115v sockets sure feels wrong.. even though the circuit breaker was switched with a 20A so it doesnt trip so easily.

I've got just the thing. I built myself a higher-voltage distribution system, although I spent too much on it by buying everything at retail instead of ordering it all over the internet for cheaper. It consists of the following components:

Raco modular metal boxes - you can remove the sides and bolt them together.
P&S Legrand plugs - chop the end off of your existing cords an bolt these on. 6-15P for 15 amps at 250V.
20 amp 250V outlets - HD doesn't carry 15A versions, but that's not a problem since it will work with both 15 and 20 amp plugs.
Sectional wall plates - 2 of these, they go on each end. HD doesn't have them.
Sectional wall plates - 4 of these, they go in the middle. HD doesn't have these either.
20A 250V 3-pin twistlock connector - L6-20P P&S Legrand.
25 feet of SJOOW 12AWG 3 conductor cable - Cerrowire.

It looks like this:



You mentioned you have a Square-D panel. Likely, it is a QO type home load center, so you would need this breaker to fill those 2 spots: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbm16Z684/R-100032386/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053


In regards to why you would want to use it - yes, higher voltage means less heating of the wire because of the lower amperage. As a rule of thumb, you can double the voltage to get half the amps. In practice however, computer powre supplies tend to be a few percent more efficient at higher voltage, so you would actually be using less than half the amps at exactly double the voltage. The greater efficiency will directly result in fewer watts being used, although the actual reduction will be fairly small and may or may not be worth the switchover in terms of payback and profitability.

Generally, a little cord heating isn't a major issue, but if it feels hot to the touch, I would start to get worried. Additionally, mining is a continuous load, so you should only be using 80% of the breaker rating as per Code. 15 x 120V = 1800 watts per 15 amp breaker at full power, and 80% of that would be 1800 x 0.8 = 1440 watts continuously. If you switched to a 20 amp 240 volt breaker, the calculations would be like this: 20 x 240V = 4800 watts full power rating, and then 4800 watts x 0.8 = 3840 watts for a continuous load, as per the Code de-rating.

I don't know how close your panel is to your mining operation, but I would not recommend that you use your existing wiring with a new breaker. If it has a 15A 120V breaker on it now, it is likely 14 AWG, which is too small for an upgrade. That's one of the reasons I built my power strip with a 25 foot cable. Additionally, you could replace my 12AWG SJ cord with some 10AWG of almost any type, and switch to a 30A breaker, but this would probably be a Code violation since each of the outlets is rated for 20A max, not 30A. If you wanted to go 30A at 250V, you would probably want to start over with a commercial PDU and special 250V IEC connectors, instead of my homebrewed setup.

Anyways, I can offer this power strip to you for about half of what it cost me to build, which would be about $75. You might be able to match that by ordering all the parts on eBay or somewhere instead of buying them at Home Depot.

[ssateneth]

Wow, what a slew of information! Can I tip you?
Also went to home depot, and figured maybe I just want to stick with 115v. That way I can continue to measure with my kill-a-watts (I can't find any compatible 230v ones). Just means I have to run 2 circuits instead of one big fat one.

[rjk]

Wow, what a slew of information! Can I tip you?
Also went to home depot, and figured maybe I just want to stick with 115v. That way I can continue to measure with my kill-a-watts (I can't find any compatible 230v ones). Just means I have to run 2 circuits instead of one big fat one.

lol sure, my firstbits are under my avatar.

For standard voltage upgrades, you can get specialty tandem breakers that go in a single slot. Click the following link for info: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbm0f/h_d2/Navigation?catalogId=10053&Nu=P_PARENT_ID&currentPLP=true&omni=c_Specialty&searchNav=true#/?c=1&684=684
However, you have to be sure that your load center ("breaker panel") supports tandems; you can tell whether they are supported by looking at the copper bus bars in the middle - they will be split into a fork or have special tabs if you are allowed to use those kinds of breakers. Unfortunately I can't find any pictures, but any electrician will know what I mean.

For 20 amp circuits, don't use anything smaller than 12AWG. If you can use tandems, that will mean up to 4 20A breaker slots can be added for your operation. 4 x 20 x 120 = 9600 watts, and 9600 watts x 0.8 = 7680 maximum continuous power draw in watts, as per Code limits.

[rjk]

Added my custom power cord thingy to the OP. It looks like this:




$75  $65 shipped, and includes the twistlock receptacle that mates to the plug that's already attached to the cord.

[rjk]

Bump for awesome parts!

[ssateneth]

Wish I could afford the rosewill lightning! I need moar powerz!

[rjk]

Wish I could afford the rosewill lightning! I need moar powerz!

Sucks being poor, I guess that's why I'm selling stuff.

Also bump

[ssateneth]

Wish I could afford the rosewill lightning! I need moar powerz!

Sucks being poor, I guess that's why I'm selling stuff.

Also bump

Well, I'm not exactly -that- poor. I got about $350 worth of video cards I need to sell (2x gigabyte 5850 non-reference, diamond 5830 non-reference) but I have 2x reference 5870 and 1 non-reference, but voltage fully adjustable, 5850 coming in the mail. If I sold my 3 cards, I'd probably jump on the rosewill. Right now I'm drawing 830-860W AC from a 750W HALE90 (80plus gold) and 900-930W AC from a PC P&C 1KW-SR (only 860W available on 12v. not 80plus at all either), and I'm getting sketchy behavior from my rigs; They don't turn off like I would expect, they just become unresponsive and start drawing only ~300 watts, have to hard reset to fix it.

In the meantime, I jerryrigged an OOOLD PSU with 336W available on 12v and powered the weakest cards in each system (5850 @ 0.95v), -seems- to be ok so far..

Plus if I were to get the rosewill, then I could finally RMA my HALE90; I melted one of the molex cords and modular outlets because I didn't know better not to power 2 x Gigabyte 5850s (voltage hardlocked to 1.088v) @ 1000+ MHz across a single molex string. <.<

Anyways, I'm rambling. Bottom line is I'm interested in the rosewill 1300w, and money will eventually come.

[rjk]

Bump, prices lowered on everything!

[miaviator]

How many rails and how many Amps are each of these PSU's?

[rjk]

How many rails and how many Amps are each of these PSU's?

They are all single rail. The amperage of the 1300watt lightning is 108A on the main 12v rail. The amperage of the 910watt PCP&C is 74A on the main 12v rail. And the amperage of the 750watt Cooler Master is 60A on the main 12v rail.
(links in the OP go to the Newegg specs pages for each unit)

[rjk]

Bump! Good clean PSUs for cheap!

[ssateneth]

I'm still interested in the rosewill 1300W, but also still waiting for money to come pouring in from sales of other items Free bump nonetheless

[rjk]

Daily bump for good PSUs!

[ssateneth]

I'm getting closer and closer to putting down an offer on the rosewill...