The pic firmware from the other boards in the same miner would be the same, so either way would work.
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I'm going to go out on a limb and say it was never available...
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Finding fewer than all asics is nearly always due to a hardware issue, faulty chip, or faulty connection on the board. You might try running a single board at a time with the control board chain that is working by unplugging all the ribbon cables from the hashboards, then plug the chain2 ribbon cable into the other hashboards one at a time. That will just verify that the issue isn't with the control board. Most likely, you'll need to find someone with the skills and tools to repair them. If your uncle is experienced in electronics repair, he might be able to follow the repair guide, https://www.zeusbtc.com/NewsDetails.asp?ID=184. The full manual is in Chinese, but you can use an online translator to get a poor but understandable translation (if you don't speak Chinese).
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Probably wouldn't be very accurate to use the 17 series failure rate for future projections since hopefully, it is an outlier. Maybe the manufacturing/design issues that caused it are were fixed with the latest series... too early to tell I think.
I think most people that are active here are not large-scale miners (say >10MW), so no one has a sample size big enough to be meaningful.
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With aftermarket firmware 100% yes. With original firmware, maybe. It won't damage anything to try it though, it will either work or not.
If you try, please report back on your success/failure.
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I'd put my money on it working fine, but if you wanted to play it safe you could wire in separate power leads directly to the PSU.
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Ah ... missed that link. That fan is a 4-wire type with pwm and a tach sensor, so it should plug right into the control board and work, so no need for a separate fan controller. You'll need to put the connector on though, it'll come with just wire leads. $65 each though.... ouch.
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I think you probably wouldn't see much difference between the stock 2.8A fan and a 3.2A fan. Keep in mind that the CFM spec listed for fans is normally measured at 0 static pressure, they move less air when blowing into the resistance of all those heatsinks in a confined space. You might want to look for a fan that is listed as a "High static pressure" type. If I still had any S9s I'd dig out my airflow meter and see what the actual CFMs are. But even if you assume that a fan that uses 15% more current is going to move 15% more air, I don't think that is going to buy you much. Increasing temperature has a larger impact on the chip temperature than the airflow speed. You get diminishing returns as the ambient temperature rises. If the space you are putting your miners doesn't have any ventilation, you'd be better off trying to figure out how to exhaust the hot air outside than putting stronger fans on. Those SanAce fans are good quality though, I've used them before and have many in the field that have been running for >5 years without any failures yet. You could try putting this beast in... https://products.sanyodenki.com/en/sanace/dc/counter-rotating-fan/9CR1212P0G03/High static pressure and 300CFM, but >7Amps ....
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2021-03-07 17:30:58 driver-btm-api.c:1193:check_asic_number: Chain 0 only find 0 asic, will power off hash board 0 2021-03-07 17:32:17 driver-btm-api.c:1193:check_asic_number: Chain 1 only find 0 asic, will power off hash board 1 2021-03-07 17:32:30 driver-btm-api.c:1134:check_asic_number_with_power_on: Chain[2]: find 65 asic, times 0
The " find 0 asic" message means the control board is not able to communicate with the asics, which normally means there is a failed chip or faulty connection somewhere on the boards. You've got 2 boards that give this message, the 3rd seems fine. I'd try unplugging the ribbon cable going into chain 2 (which I believe is the furthest from the PSU on an S17+) and test the chain 0 and chain 1 boards individually with that cable to rule out a control board or ribbon cable issue. And before you do that, you might want to just shake the miner and listen for loose heatsinks. If you hear something loose jingling around in there, no point in testing any further. If that is the case, you'd need to re-attach those heatsinks before going any further. Most likely you'll need to find someone who can repair them, check this post. You can also read through this post, there are a number of things you can try to fix them yourself, but I'm not sure how often any of those actually work, or how long they'd work. Also, when posting logs, please use the "Insert Code" (#) button.
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I got the 12.7mm nozzle, and I'm using that. It is just the right size to cover the ASIC. That's the other nice thing, the most nozzles are only around $10.
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Got my new hot-air tool and tried it out last night for the first time. It works great, bang for the buck factor is very high...
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Dear Mr. wndsnb, can you tell me from which country
I'm from east coast USA, but I can't promise quick responses.... I'm pretty busy these days. I respond when I can find time....
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It seems like every few months there's another "xyz is happening in China so hashrate is going to go down" story, but it never pans out to any noticeable difference.
But I'd guess that if they do shut down all mining in Mongolia, the operations that don't already have a place to move to would just sell their gear. Prices for used gear are stupid high right now. So that gear isn't going to be idle for long.
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Does anyone know if the S19 control board compatible with the S17 miner? Has anyone tried it and been successful? I sent the question to Bitmain support a week ago and haven't received an answer. The instructions for setting up an S19 control board on Bitmain's website say that replacement S19 control boards are shipped with S17 firmware, so it seems like it would work. But it isn't explicitly said anywhere. https://support.bitmain.com/hc/en-us/articles/900003173106S19, S17+, and S17 control boards are also sold by ZeusBTC, so I asked them if their S19 board could be used in a S17 and they just replied "No", with no further explanation.
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The side of the capacitor that your probe is touching in the image is the ground side, so it would always measure 0V. The other side should be 0.8V. The 1.8V and 0.8V flow through each chip to the next, in this image the signal travels A -> B -> C. The 0.8V enters the ASIC at A, and exits the chip at B. To make sure the connection is being made through the new ASIC you put down, measure the resistance between these two points indicated in the following image. The resistance should be less than 1 ohm.
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What kind of glue use the heatsinks of the S17 T17 hashboards?
At the factory, the heatsinks are soldered on using low-temperature melting point solder (~140 degC). This is what I use https://www.chipquik.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=470006. The soldering only works if the copper plating is still on the top of the chip, and from my experience, most of the time heatsinks fall off it is caused when the plating delaminates. If that is the case, then the only options are to use a thermally conductive adhesive or to replace the chip.
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You need a 20V or greater, 10A lab power supply. I'm using one of these that I found on ebay: https://www.tequipment.net/InstekPSP2010.html?v=7421. If you want to mix and match boards with stock firmware then you'll need some way to program the eeprom. From what I can tell, the ARC tester just programs in some default nominal values, so it is good if those values work for the hashboard you're working on. But if the hashboard doesn't run well at the frequency/voltage, there isn't anything you can do about it. I just asked them about it and told them it would be a nice feature to enable editing of those values. So who knows, maybe they'll implement it. Their support has been pretty good so far, I message them on Whatsapp and they have responded within 15 minutes every time I think. Also, the Bitmain tester is just a S17+ control board with different firmware. They hook an lcd screen to it, but it really isn't necessary. I'm pretty sure you can take a stock s17+ control board and run the test fixture firmware on it. You'd just need to buy a USB to serial adapter, like this: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/15096, and hook it up to the uart signals on the control board. Here's what my workbench currently looks like... a bit messy.
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